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(Topic ID: 105393)

Silhouette Cameo Pinball Restorers Club!


By Curbfeeler

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 479 posts
  • 89 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by BeachPickle
  • Topic is favorited by 213 Pinsiders

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    #107 3 years ago

    Decided I was going to give this a try and found what looks like a decent deal. Silhouette cameo 2 bundle new for $150.

    ://www.overstock.com/Crafts-Sewing/Silhouette-Cameo-2-Die-Cutting-Machine-Bundle-25-Gift-Card/9508441/product.html

    #109 3 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I was looking at the roll feeder bundle. It's not available on overstock, but available separately from amazon:
    amazon.com link »
    Getting the bundle from overstock, then the feeder separately still looks like a pretty good deal.
    Thanks for the heads up

    For pinball purposes, do you think there's any reason to have the 24" mat if you have the roll feeder?

    #111 3 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I can't really see myself doing any cutting on a mat if all the cutting is done by the machine. Since I don't own one (yet), I couldn't say for sure if it would be useful or not.

    It's a mat for the machine. (I assume to support larger sheet goods than what the standard 12x12 mat the comes with the machine can handle.)

    amazon.com link »

    #114 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

    12" X 51" stencils. No mat. No roll feeder.

    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    The cutting mat is for material that doesn't have a sticky backing, like paper or card stock. Paint mask can be cut with no mat.

    Thanks - reading back through this thread I was beginning to suspect that. Glad I didn't order either the mat or the roll feeder!

    1 week later
    #127 3 years ago

    I just picked up a Canon LiDE 600f used on amazon for $40 last week. I got it because the lid hinges 180 degrees, has a full letter size bed and it can be turned upside down or sideways. You can't see through it but I don't care. Given the need for overlap when stitching I don't feel that a see through unit is a great advantage. I was concerned about 1 image ratio since the bezel prevents the glass platen from actually laying flat on a playfield. I tested it yesterday by laying a ruler on a table, scanning it, printing the scan at 100% from photoshop and then aligning the ruler with its printed scan. To the naked eye it looks spot on. Micro precise calipers might say differently but I do not own calipers.

    Added over 4 years ago: CORRECTION - don't do this! I could not tell with my ruler test that the focus was slightly off. I discovered the slightly out of focus issue scanning a playfield. The rim of the scanner raises the platen up about 3/32. I tried modifying the scanner to make the platen lay flat on the playfield and ran into all sorts of difficulty. Now the mangled scanner does the job, but due to bring extensively messed with, gets stuck half the time. Forget modifying a scanner. Find an hp4600 or get a doxie flip, I guess.

    3 weeks later
    #134 3 years ago
    Quoted from rufessor:

    HERE is what I found to work exceedingly well
    Gerber 15 SM-4 GERBERMASK 1 ULTRA

    This stuff is 15-inches wide. Does it feed into the cameo without being trimmed down? I know the cameo can only cut 12-inches wide. Is it wide enough to feed a full 15-inch stock?

    #136 3 years ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    Yes it just fits.

    Thanks. I didn't want to spend that much on a roll of the stuff only to find out that it didn't fit without some pita modification.

    #138 3 years ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    If you are in the US you can order it from Regional Supply by the yard.

    Great tip - thanks. I figure I only need about 10 yards max for my current pinball projects. I also have another non-pinball project that I wanted to try some of the Gerbermask II Ultra but didn't want to invest in a whole roll just for a small experiment. I don't mind paying a little more per foot for the huge convenience of being able to buy just what I need of both kinds for my current projects and not worrying about having to store a large amount of leftover material while the shelf life on its adhesive ticks down.

    1 week later
    #140 3 years ago

    So I've been doing some work using orocal 813. I am massively impressed with the quality of the cuts the silouette makes with this material. (I seem too recall some earlier posts in this thread saying that it was not great for detail work, but so far it has cut tiny details perfectly for me.) My trouble comes with removing the stencil. Initially I was having issues with the vinyl lifting/tearing some of the paint off with it. I suspected that the paint had not dried enough so my next round I let the paint set for 24 hours. After 24 hours the edges came out clean but the stencil was REALLY hard to remove. It seems that the adhesive gets stronger the longer it is left in place. Any tips that might be helpful?

    #142 3 years ago

    Beware ordering from Regional Supply. Yes, they sell Gerbermask by the yard. However, when you order it says "shipping to be determined at time of invoicing". Stupidly, I thought they would let me know what shipping would be before actually fulfilling the order. Several days later the box arrived with the Gerbermask. For my 30 dollar order, they charged $15 shipping plus a $5 small order surcharge. WTF?!? Never again.

    1 week later
    #143 3 years ago
    Quoted from Lonzo:

    What kind of paint are you using. I use 813 a lot and you are correct, the longer you leave it on the harder it is to remove and it will leave residue behind. If the stencil is removing paint then it is probably not dry or too thick. I use Createx paints and they cure with heat. I do several thin layers with an airbrush and then use heat to cure each layer. That is better than using one heavy coat. I also apply my mask using water with a micro amount of soap in it. This helps to be able to move the stencil around to perfectly place it. Once in place, work the water out and make sure the area is dry and I am painting in 5 minutes. The water will also help with the removal but it can also leave residue if left too long.
    I document my use of the mask in my JP thread. I also have some tips for inserts painted with this mask etc.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration

    Great looking restoration your have going there, Lonzo! I think you are right about dryness and thickness. My problem seemed to be that I was not letting the paint dry enough before removing the mask. My coat was also pretty thick as I was having trouble with opacity. That said, even with REALLY thick paint layers if I let them dry completely the edge does not tear.

    On the stencil material front, I tried the Gerbermask and vastly prefer it to the orocal. The adhesive level of the Gerbermask is perfect for this type of work. I had the orocal rip multiple layers of paint and clear off a playfield after it being on for several hours. The Gerbermask I can leave on overnight and still remove super cleanly and easily.

    #145 3 years ago
    Quoted from Lonzo:

    Is the Gerbermask you use the yellow stuff? I really like how you can see through the Oracle. I have to be able to see through to align everything. I have some yellow Gerbermask but I haven't tried it yet.

    The stuff I have is white, totally opaque. I did like how I could see through the Oracle fire alignment. With the Gerbermask I basically reverse align (focus on the surrounding area left exposed rather than the area being covered). It's not as easy as when you can see through the material but I have still managed to get good alignment.

    I am beginning to suspect that what I have is not actually orocal 813. I bought it from someone on etsy as a 12" X 10 yard roll. Looking at the oramask website it looks like they don't make 813 in a 12" width. The narrowest I see is 15". I really can't imagine anyone describing what I have as low tack.

    #147 3 years ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    Maybe someone cut a 24" roll in half?
    I use GerberMask. Positioning is a problem. I bought transparent transfer tape, that helps a lot. I remove the backing (or half of it) and then get it into position. GerberMask isn't so tacky that you can't reposition it if you lay it down lightly.

    Yes, transparent transfer tape is a must with gerbermask.

    4 months later
    #160 3 years ago

    I just scan an area, clean anything funky up in Photoshop and save it as a high quality jpg. Open that in silhouette studio, trace and cut. Much easier than redrawing everything and super accurate.

    #161 3 years ago

    Had to continue the post above after switching to my laptop to pull up an example. This is a 1 scan cleaned up in photoshop, saved as a jpg, opened in silhouette studio, traced and cut. The ONLY reason I ever fool around with redrawing something as a vector is if I need to scale it up or down significantly.

    20170407_090014[433] (resized).jpg

    20170407_090544[435] (resized).jpg

    20170407_094513[439] (resized).jpg

    #167 3 years ago
    Quoted from PanaPinResto:

    I'll have to try this. I don't have photoshop though. Anyone know of a free program that will turn into a high quality jpeg? What is high quality? 600dpi? 1200?

    Basically you want to start with a fairly high dpi scan and retain that same dpi with minimal compression upon conversion to a jpeg after editing is complete. Though my scanner is capable of 2400 dpi I scan at 1200 dpi because the file size is much more manageable and yields cut results that are indistinguishable from 2400 dpi.

    2 months later
    #182 3 years ago
    Quoted from Skins:

    What am I missing on buying photoshop. You can't just buy the damn thing outright? Monthly, yearly, wtf? Please link a photoshop newb to what I need to buy for Mac OS.

    You can buy any older version with a lifetime license. CS6 was the last lifetime license. I have CS3 - much older and less expensive and serves me just fine.

    #186 3 years ago
    Quoted from rufessor:

    Yeah- Inkscape or illustrator is really where you want to be looking. Photoshop is not a tool that is very useful here- you want vector art- not pixels like photoshop deals with.
    I am learning to adapt to Inkscape and it's fine- I like illustrator a lot better but the subscription is a POS deal and I swore off- count me in the apparently growing list of former adobe customers- although this list is apparently not very long- they seem to be doing just fine- it's really not a negative comment on Adobe, their tools are amazing and if I made my living using the, would be worth it. It is sad that they priced themselves out of the hobbiest market- and also short sighted. But whatever- use INKsCAPe and donate to them- I did- it helps a ton to fund their development efforts!

    I must respectfully disagree about needing vectors. Vectors are scalable paths. That's great if you need to scale an image up or down and maintain a crisp edge. Since we are (hopefully) dealing with a 1 scan to cut process, either Photoshop or illustrator will work. I own both and rarely use illustrator. I find Photoshop easier and ultra effective for restoration work. I have found that Photoshop actually works better for working with older hand drawn art which is by nature wobbly and highly irregular.

    1 week later
    #200 3 years ago
    Quoted from DropTarget:

    I just got one yesterday. When mine scans, the resulting image has stripes going across the image. As in If an area is supposed to be solid blue, it gives alternating stripes of blue with a blue that is a slightly different blue. If you squint, it looks like the correct color.
    Have you experienced this?

    I have. Not always. I haven't yet figured out why it happens sometimes.

    #208 3 years ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    HP ScanJet 4600 or 4670.
    Make sure it is the scanner and not just the transparent materials adapter (TMA).
    This also works although the scan bed is much smaller. It is easier to wrangle though because it runs on batteries (plus it is readily available):
    http://www.getdoxie.com/product/flip/

    Also make sure it comes with the power/usb cord. It is a special cord that is not readily replaced.

    1 month later
    #217 3 years ago
    Quoted from SteveNZ:

    Is anyone using the Cameo V2? I can get one at a reasonable price and just wanted to know if it would be adequate for pinball projects. I can't find a head to head comparison of the 2 versions.

    I've got one. It works great.

    #219 3 years ago

    I haven't yet cut Mylar, but I have cut vinyl that is thicker than 3ml. I doubt that with proper depth and pressure settings you need to make 2 passes. Multiple passes increases the chances of cutting errors.

    1 week later
    #222 3 years ago
    Quoted from RGAires:

    Hello all,
    Right now im doing a full restoration on a Indiana Jones and i have one insert that needs a repaint on the yellow color...
    I was playing with the software and i have the studio cameo file ready, but i dont have the machine yet, can you guys give me a hand to check if this plotter can handle a so precise cut...
    A print screen of what i have
    Thanks

    The machine should be able to handle the cut but it's going to be a real challenge to weed the little bits and accurately transfer it. You would be better off painting the whole area yellow and using a waterslide decal sandwiched between layers of 2pac for the black. If you really want to paint it I still recommend a total repaint of both yellow then black otherwise you're going to have a fight with perfect registration.

    3 months later
    #240 2 years ago

    I got tired of not being able to import drawings from Illustrator and upgraded the Silhouette software. Turns out that by upgrading, you get more tools unlocked as well which so far means that I can do most of my work directly in Silhouette Studio. I found a site that sells the upgrade for $20 less than it costs direct from the manufacturer. For $30 out the door, I felt it was well worth it.

    https://www.swingdesign.com/collections/silhouette-software/products/silhouette-studio-designer-edition-digital-license-code-for-cameo-portrait-sd-instant-download

    1 week later
    #250 2 years ago
    Quoted from DropTarget:

    I used Oracle as the gerbermask was to pricey for me.
    It worked great, except for small detail work. I also found it easy to use as frisket, lay it down and cut with an exacto.
    While zI didn't try the gerbermask, I suspect, as indicated in the referenced thread, that is it better for small details like lettering.

    Oracal 813 is great stuff. I pretty much don't use frisket anymore. I use 813 for everything including detail work. The only exception being if I need to hand cut a mask on an area where lifting of fresh material is a concern. Then I use frisket because it has a lower tack adhesive. Gerber cuts nicely too but you can't see through it for positioning. That became a deal killer for me.

    1 month later
    #260 2 years ago
    Quoted from tomds:

    Has anyone had issues with bubbles in 813 when un-rolling? I have had this issue making it pretty much useless. Looking at reviews on Amazon it seems to be a common issue?

    Never had that issue. I buy mine from uscutter.com not Amazon.

    #268 2 years ago

    Does anybody have a cut file already made for this that they would be willing to share?

    20180418_122849 (resized).jpg

    #270 2 years ago
    Quoted from psd4me:

    I do. Can send it tonight if you don't get it before then. Mike

    Thank you - that would be awesome. PM sent.

    1 month later
    #274 2 years ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    Did you pull it at 90 or 180degrees?
    If you pull it straight up it can cause issues, it's best to get it started then essentially lay it on itself to remove. As close to 180 degrees as you can.
    This minimizes the amount of surface tension of the product being removed.

    I agree and would add that heat setting your paint with the Oracal in place hugely increases the likelihood of pulling up underlying material. Also, peel REALLY slowly. Oh, and don't press the Oracal too hard when applying it. Just lightly smooth the edges down enough to ensure a crisp line.

    #283 2 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    Update... After adding another layer of 2pac and then storing the PF indoors for a week, we have success. Using heat to cure the paint with the oramask in place had no ill effects. I guess next time, I will spray a heavier initial layer of 2pac on the playfield. This thing was pretty roached all around the mylar edges when I got it.

    Great work!

    3 weeks later
    #290 2 years ago

    I would be SO tempted to redo all the gold with real gold leaf....

    8 months later
    #320 1 year ago
    Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

    Well I pulled the trigger on a used ebay unit that looks practically new. We will see how this goes.

    These are a great addition to your arsenal. You'll never go back to cutting circles and curves by hand....

    2 months later
    #325 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballBillinFL:

    I'm getting set up to do a restore on my playfield (1975 Williams Little Chief), and have been following Vid's guide to playfield restoration. I've been planning to go the frisket route, possibly with some waterslide decals for some of the lettering, but in response to a question I had regarding lettering with a border around each letter, it was suggested to me that I look at using a Silhouette Cameo, so here I am! I've read through this topic a couple of times, and as much as I'd love to buy my next to the last tool, the learning curve for this thing seems pretty steep. Vector graphics, weeding, etc. - a whole new vocabulary to dive into. On the other hand, it seems as though it might make for a better result, especially in some of the trickier areas.
    So, a few questions. First, has anybody ever done stencils for an entire playfield? Or would I be better off just doing the more detailed parts, and sticking to frisket for the remainder? I'm guessing that I can take scans of the areas of interest (I have an HP 4670 scanner) and somehow create stencils from them; the question is, what other software do I need or should I look at that would make the process easier or more accurate? Any pointers as to overall process would be helpful. I've looked at some of the Youtube tutorials, but they didn't seem to apply to pins as much as I would hope.
    Thanks in advance!

    I use the cameo for detail areas. Large color fields are easier for me to cut by hand with frisket. It's true that you'll get waaaaay better results for things like letter outlines this way vs cutting by hand. Keyline stencils cut with this are great. I use photoshop to create the isolated lines I need from scans but a good free program would probably be fine, too. No need to recreate everything in vector format.

    #337 1 year ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    If it were ME, I would cut stencil for the red, yellow and white for the LITES DOUBLE and advances kick out... , I would take the quick way out and do waterslide decals for the text. In the lower ADVANCE BONUS, I would cut stencil for the yellow, blue & black, again cheat and do waterslides for text, it might be basic enough that you could stencil that if you were so inclined.
    For the other area of LITES DOUBLE 1-6, I would stencil the red, blue & black, waterslide decals for the 1 - 6.
    Purists will likely suggest stencil all of the text but I'm not a purist. Further I'm still a novice when it comes to the Cameo and my experience has not been the best when attempting to make stencils on it with very fine lines often required for text.

    Almost totally agree with this approach. My only difference of opinion here would be to also stencil the 1-6. That text is plenty large and simple enough to stencil. I use waterslide decals as little as practical since they are more of a wild card both at time of clearcoat application and long term.

    Additional tip: when stenciling outlined text, slightly increase the area of your inner color and lay it down first. Then do the same for the keyline. This ensures full and easy overlap. A one or two pixel expansion will do the trick nicely. This is also handy for replacing poorly registered keylines.

    4 weeks later
    #342 1 year ago

    This method works well for cabinets (courtesy of Jeff the pinballpimp):

    5 months later
    #366 1 year ago
    Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

    The 4670 is a 600 dpi scanner, the 2400 stuff is just an interpolation of the 600, not real data. Having spent many hours staring at scans up close I have measured the original silk screening at around 110 threads per inch. I do everything at 600 dpi. You can scan at 200-300 and get a nice result assuming you are reprinting what you scanned. As soon as you start editing though, trying to blend in 200-300 into a source image done at 110 dpi you get what is known as aliasing and you have to blend things together more and your overall contrast between starkly different colours goes down and many playfields use very crisp line drawings. Modern computers can handle a whole playfield at 600 dpi without too much hassle.

    I agree that 600dpi is more than good enough. Further, I would suggest cutting keyline stencils with the cameo. Less waterside decals is better.

    2 months later
    #383 9 months ago
    Quoted from gawlicd:

    What type of paint (enamel,Acrylic water etc) are you using for playfield stencil work. I've tried airbrushing water thinned craft acrylics on glass before and had little bubbles pop up. Looked funny.
    I am trying to learn this stencil and cutter stuff. Really cool thread. Thanks everyone.

    Airbrush grade acrylic. Createx is a common choice.

    1 week later
    #392 9 months ago
    Quoted from wolffcub:

    If using createx stay away from the wicked line and use the opaque colours. The wicked line is too transparent and you will be layering like crazy to get coverage.

    Really? I’m haven’t noticed that at all. Maybe just some specific colors?

    1 month later
    #405 7 months ago

    Does anyone here have a scan (or better yet cameo art) for an early Stern apron? I’m working on a Seawitch, but the scan doesn’t have to be from Seawitch since there were a number of games with the same apron, just different colors.

    #407 7 months ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    I can go by my storage and pull / scan this one from a Magic this weekend if no one else can do it sooner or this one will not work for you?
    Obviously I'll remove the vending decals first (hopefully w/o damage).[quoted image]

    I appreciate the offer - thank you! Don’t make a special trip just yet. I’ve got an offer from another pinsider to scan an apron for me. If he doesn’t come through, can I follow up and take you up on your offer? Thanks again

    #413 7 months ago
    Quoted from djb_rh:

    So is there a quick and dirty “this is how to make your own custom plastic”? Banzai Run has one that’s both easy to break and while repros appear to occasionally get done, they also seem to suck. It looks like it’s possible with a Cameo from the things I’ve seen said, but I haven’t stumbled upon the how yet.
    FWIW, I have a Cameo 4 and I’ve done some normal sign vinyl and I’ve also done some heat transfer vinyl for shirts. I’m pretty comfortable with AutoCAD, Inkscape, and Silhouette Design at this point, but have no idea what “frisket” is and haven’t used any of the wet transfer vinyls you guys seem to be discussing. Anyone got a clear guide for the best way to do a plastic repro?
    —Donnie

    I’ve had success with simply printing the graphic on high quality photo paper with archival ink and then adhering the image to the underside of a piece of acrylic with optically clear adhesive film. Though I’ve used the Cameo extensively for playfield and cabinet restoration, I’ve never used it for plastic reproduction.

    #416 7 months ago
    Quoted from tezting:

    Thank you this is very kind of you.

    Thank you. This would be so awesome! Time is no issue. I started the restoration five years ago. So I am not in a hurry while this is the last puzzle I need to solve.
    I would love to read about your effort. Do you have a direct link?

    Sorry if I don’t understand it 100% but don’t you get a white “edge” when using photo paper?
    Do you have images of the process?

    I guess it depends on the graphic. I assume you mean for a graphic with transparent places in the image field? How about posting a picture of the plastic you’re wanting to reproduce? That would make advising on process easier.

    #420 7 months ago
    Quoted from lizzyd:

    Did you find a scan? I can try to get one of my Wild Fyre if you need. I use the Adobe Capture app - Shapes to scan for cutting.

    I did, thank you. cottonm4 took care of me!

    2 weeks later
    #425 7 months ago
    Quoted from Tsskinne:

    I need this for a Star Gazer build so if you are able to get a file I would really appreciate it. I don’t have a cameo but a friend of mine does. This apron looks great but a bit naked currently.
    [quoted image]

    Working my way through some related projects...apron stencil is on the short list, though. I’ll post here and in the Seawitch club thread when I have something to share.

    1 month later
    #452 5 months ago
    Quoted from DropTarget:

    I've used poster board or acetate sheets from an art supply store to cut stencils.

    To get that authentic edge bleed for old games, I’ve cut stencils with my cameo and then applied them to BIG pieces of cardboard and then cut the cardboard with a razor. Just enough paint bleeds around the cardboard stencil edges to give that old time look.

    3 months later
    #461 64 days ago

    I keep the right roller in the standard position. I precut long pieces of material like you did and lay the whole thing on the floor (hardwood in my case - minimal friction). I load the material, adjust straightness by eye if needed by temporarily releasing tension on the right roller, retension and then use the manual feed arrows on the touchpad to feed the material almost all the way through. If it walks off to one side, adjust and repeat until successful. When it’s good, use the manual feed arrows to get back to the starting position and start your cut job.

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