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(Topic ID: 105393)

Silhouette Cameo Pinball Restorers Club!


By Curbfeeler

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 473 posts
  • 86 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 20 hours ago by dr_nybble
  • Topic is favorited by 212 Pinsiders

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    #324 1 year ago

    I'm getting set up to do a restore on my playfield (1975 Williams Little Chief), and have been following Vid's guide to playfield restoration. I've been planning to go the frisket route, possibly with some waterslide decals for some of the lettering, but in response to a question I had regarding lettering with a border around each letter, it was suggested to me that I look at using a Silhouette Cameo, so here I am! I've read through this topic a couple of times, and as much as I'd love to buy my next to the last tool, the learning curve for this thing seems pretty steep. Vector graphics, weeding, etc. - a whole new vocabulary to dive into. On the other hand, it seems as though it might make for a better result, especially in some of the trickier areas.

    So, a few questions. First, has anybody ever done stencils for an entire playfield? Or would I be better off just doing the more detailed parts, and sticking to frisket for the remainder? I'm guessing that I can take scans of the areas of interest (I have an HP 4670 scanner) and somehow create stencils from them; the question is, what other software do I need or should I look at that would make the process easier or more accurate? Any pointers as to overall process would be helpful. I've looked at some of the Youtube tutorials, but they didn't seem to apply to pins as much as I would hope.

    Thanks in advance!

    #335 1 year ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    Little Chief looks like a great candidate for mostly using Frisket. Large sections with straight lines, simple colors. I would LOVE to work on something from this era.
    I debated about full stencils for a Silverball Mania, in the end decided to use primarily waterslide decals for the detail work.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-up-a-silverball-mania#post-3834606
    I start in Photoshop, create and adjust the art, then switch to Illustrator to create the DXF files for the cameo, direct import those and then cut away.

    So my answer to this question is yes, waterslide for high detail items, frisket for the bulk of it.

    Yes, when I first started looking into a restoration, frisket seemed the way to go, and yes - lots of fairly simple lines and colors. Then I found a couple of areas with a fair amount of detail, including lettering with a border. It just seemed beyond what I felt I could do manually, but then again, I haven't laid down the first coat of clear to lock down the planking, peeling paint, etc. Just looking ahead. These two scans are the areas I'm talking about, and thinking might be candidates for creating stencils vs a lot of detailed frisket work.

    scan1_2 (resized).jpgscan3_2 (resized).jpg
    #339 1 year ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    If it were ME, I would cut stencil for the red, yellow and white for the LITES DOUBLE and advances kick out... , I would take the quick way out and do waterslide decals for the text. In the lower ADVANCE BONUS, I would cut stencil for the yellow, blue & black, again cheat and do waterslides for text, it might be basic enough that you could stencil that if you were so inclined.
    For the other area of LITES DOUBLE 1-6, I would stencil the red, blue & black, waterslide decals for the 1 - 6.
    Purists will likely suggest stencil all of the text but I'm not a purist. Further I'm still a novice when it comes to the Cameo and my experience has not been the best when attempting to make stencils on it with very fine lines often required for text.

    Quoted from pinheadpierre:

    Almost totally agree with this approach. My only difference of opinion here would be to also stencil the 1-6. That text is plenty large and simple enough to stencil. I use waterslide decals as little as practical since they are more of a wild card both at time of clearcoat application and long term.
    Additional tip: when stenciling outlined text, slightly increase the area of your inner color and lay it down first. Then do the same for the keyline. This ensures full and easy overlap. A one or two pixel expansion will do the trick nicely. This is also handy for replacing poorly registered keylines.

    Thanks to both for some great insight and ideas! This sort of back and forth is exactly what I'm looking for.

    Quoted from mark532011:

    That looks like a perfect candidate for repair, both spraying and decals. I hope you post some “action” shots as I am getting close to that stage myself and worried I am going to f it up

    As soon as I can get that first coat of clear laid down I will! Right now I'm trying to find somebody to shoot the clear for me, ideally with some experience in what I need. Failing that, I'll gear up and go the Spraymax route. At least I won't be able to blame anybody but myself!

    3 months later
    #358 1 year ago
    Quoted from j_m_:

    cameo silhouette 4 just announced
    this might be the tipping point to get me to purchase one finally
    https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/shop/SILH-CAMEO-4-WHT-W

    And for those of us who do not need the bleeding edge technology, this should force prices on 3s down as some people dump them to upgrade.

    2 months later
    #361 12 months ago

    I've got a couple more questions as I inch toward pulling the trigger and getting a Silhouette. Per the discussions above I'm thinking that I will do simple areas with frisket, stencil the more complex areas, and probably waterslide the keylines around the inserts. Anyway, I've got an HP4670 scanner, and have scanned all the playfield, with additional scans of the areas that I'm most interested in cutting stencils for. I've played with those scans in Gimp to clean them up (playfield is in pretty tough shape), and upon recommendations here, have been playing with Inkscape to vectorize them for their use in cutting stencils. My question is - what scanner resolution are most folks using? Mine defaulted to 200dpi, but I know the scanner is capable of 2400dpi. I went back and re-scanned one area at 300, 600, 1200 and 2400 just to play with those, and I have to admit - correcting flaws in a scan at 2400dpi seems MUCH easier, however, the time to scan, and the size of the resulting file is pretty horrible. It's also rather interesting to see all the flaws in some of the original artwork when examined closely. A question more to the capabilities of the Cameo itself - what's the finest detail that it is capable of cutting? There is some rather small lettering - maybe 1/4" or so - that may be beyond it's capability. And mine as well! Those may get the waterslide treatment as well since the smallest lettering is solid black. I'm hoping that some of the larger letters that are outlined in a contrasting color will lie within its capabilities.

    Happy Thanksgiving to all!

    1 week later
    #367 11 months ago
    Quoted from pinheadpierre:

    I agree that 600dpi is more than good enough. Further, I would suggest cutting keyline stencils with the cameo. Less waterside decals is better.

    600dpi it is then. I've been working with a couple of scans at that resolution, and it looks good. The borders between colors and keylines are generally sharp and easy to trace along. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but due to a lot of flaked paint, planking, etc. I'm trying to basically redo each scan to fill each color with one consistent shade, then I'll go from there. I have one scan where the lines are very blurry for some reason, but I think with some care I can get decent results even on that one.

    As far as keylines go, does anybody have any idea how fine a path the Cameo can cut? Most of the lines are either straight, gentle curves, or circles, but some are quite fine - on the order of 1-2mm wide perhaps. That's two cuts, one on each side - can this unit perform?

    Thanks to all the great support on this site - here, and the other topics I follow!

    5 months later
    #437 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mneubey:

    I’d definitely suggest purchasing one if you are on the fence. I’ve had mine for about 2 years, and it’s easily the best restoration purchase I’ve ever had. Here is a pic of a diner apron I recently did (airbrushed).

    To echo the others, that's a great piece of work. I haven't yet pulled the trigger on getting a Cameo for my playfield resto, and have given only passing thought to the apron. This might be the tipping point! I'm guessing you started with a scan?

    #442 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mneubey:

    Thanks! Yep, I use the hp 4670 scanner (which is essential for playfields) to scan, used Inkscape to trace, and printed in the silhouette software.

    Perfect! I have that scanner, and have been working with playfield scans to clean them up. I've practiced using Inkscape, but not proficient yet. Did you use the base Silhouette software, or one of the upgraded versions? I downloaded the free version just to play around with it, but have gravitated toward Inkscape since it seems more robust and easier to use for separating the colors. Obviously some version of the Silhouette software is needed to drive the cutter.

    Sure sounds like another toy in my future! Thanks for those great pics - amazing work!

    #445 5 months ago
    Quoted from roar:

    Free version of the Silhouette software does not allow for the importing of .svg files... I'm guessing the output files of Inkscape is an .svg? If so you will need to upgrade your Silhouette software to work with those files.

    Quoted from Mneubey:

    Good call. I upgraded the software, and it was well worth it. If you keep an eye on slick deals, they will have a sale on it every once in a while. Considering the fact that the upgrade allows importing svg files directly, it's well worth the one time cost.

    Thanks to both. I haven't produced anything useful in Inkscape yet, so I would have stumbled on this eventually. I started by importing my cleaned up scans into the freebie software, and was not happy with how it felt, so I moved to Inkscape.

    Not sure I have the optimum workflow yet; it's been quite a learning curve. Scan, import into Gimp, clean up the scan, import that to Inkscape.. Then import the different colors into the Silhouette software, and cut.. Quite the learning curves on all these things, but I sure have seen some fantastic results posted here!

    1 week later
    #447 5 months ago

    Just scored a Cameo 3 on Ebay yesterday!

    Now that I've taken the plunge, has anybody experimented with practicing on materials other than the Oramask or Gerber materials? I'm just looking for some cheapo material with the idea of getting some practice with converting scans to something resembling a stencil?

    #449 5 months ago
    Quoted from Grangeomatic:

    You can buy some pens and just draw on paper, if you just want to learn to use the software. If you want to learn to play with the settings, though, this won’t help.
    Worked for me.
    Jeff

    Huh.. Never thought of - gasp! DRAWING! What a good idea! True about the settings, but as I recall, there are lots of settings elsewhere in this topic that should either work immediately, or serve as a starting point!

    Thanks!
    Bill...

    1 month later
    #453 3 months ago
    Quoted from roar:

    Finally got my Cameo 4 yesterday. Did some test prints with it and then got down to work with the stencils. Pleased with the progress so far. Working on a second test run now making adjustments... adding registration marks to help with alignment.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Are you planning to add the registrations in the Silhouette software, or some other place? I guess it depends on where you separate colors into the individual stencil cuttings...

    I've just been playing thusfar, mostly with the scans I did for my apron. Only two colors (plus base), so after I cleaned up the scans in Gimp, I separated the two colors into layers there, imported each individually into Inkscape for scaling and export to SVG, then imported the SVG files to the Silhouette software for cutting. No attempt at registration marks yet.

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