Algonquin, IL
Wow amazing work some people here are doing! I WANT ONE!!!
Looking at Craiglist/Offerup there's a few out there... any reason to get the 3 instead of the earlier versions?
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1 month later
1 week later
Quoted from JodyG:I did black first because the tiny cutouts in the letters were easier to deal with by painting the gold layer second. My gold paint covered very well, so it wasn't an issue. I used color matched DuPont Nason single stage automotive paint for the gold. I will then seal that all with 2Pac. I will do the white after the next sealing coat of 2pac.
Very nice! What are you cutting your stencils on? Safe to airbrush indoors?
2 weeks later
Preparing to triple thick some backglasses. Made some stencils to protect some artwork near a clear window...
Scanned on the HP 4600
Merged the images in Photoshop
Traced a rough outline with my Wacom tablet in Illustrator
Exported to DXF, imported into Silhouette Studio
Cut a tester on printer paper
Perfect! Almost too easy...
IMG_20180706_002800_051 (resized).jpgIMG_20180706_003321_246 (resized).jpgIMG_20180706_003339_081 (resized).jpg
4 weeks later
This is quickly becoming my favorite tool!
Working on my Firepower project, my bullseye targets needed some attention.
Scanned one with the HP, built a stencil in Illustrator, cut it in Silhouette on some Oramask.
I chose "stencil material" in Silhouette Studio but put the cutting depth to 2, could still probably get away with 1.
Transferred to transfer paper.
Applying it was a bit tricky, but the Oramask was pretty forgiving in correcting it.
Airbrushed over the white.
Removed the stencil, cleaned up the minor overspray.
Also cut some protectors out of mylar!
Force 45, depth 3, speed 4, passes 1.
Still cut through the mylar and the paper, could probably have gotten away with depth of 1.
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2 weeks later
Printed out all the stencils for my Bank Shot restoration! Tried them out on the cabinet and they look great! Wish the Oramask backing was a little more transparent. Now time to prep the cabinet...
I cheaped out in the essence of maximizing my roll of Oramask. Hoping lining them up works out. The bigger longer pieces (not pictured) I lined up and taped to the cabinet, then cut the edges/corners for easy alignment when I get to that point.
IMG_20180825_150210 (resized).jpg 4 weeks later
8 months later
How do you guys apply large stencils? I've done the strategy of taking down one end and using a dowel rod to slowly roll it off, but don't get perfect results. I've considered just chopping up my decal in a few smaller sections and applying that way
Quoted from dudah:Anyone have trouble getting true curves? You can see pretty easily defined different lines instead of a curve.
I make these in Illustrator by creating two points and using the convert anchor point tool to get the curves I desire.
[quoted image]
Fixed this!
I was playing around with the export settings of Illustrator with no luck.
It would look OK in Illustrator then when it was imported into Silhouette, the lack of curves was visible.
Just updated the software and it imported fine!
2 months later
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:Does anyone have a cameo silhouette file for the backbox warning on WPC machines they would be willing to share?
Just type one up. Or you can easily make one from a scan.
I personally leave it out when redoing cabinet heads.
7 months later
Quoted from djb_rh:So is there a quick and dirty “this is how to make your own custom plastic”? Banzai Run has one that’s both easy to break and while repros appear to occasionally get done, they also seem to suck. It looks like it’s possible with a Cameo from the things I’ve seen said, but I haven’t stumbled upon the how yet.
FWIW, I have a Cameo 4 and I’ve done some normal sign vinyl and I’ve also done some heat transfer vinyl for shirts. I’m pretty comfortable with AutoCAD, Inkscape, and Silhouette Design at this point, but have no idea what “frisket” is and haven’t used any of the wet transfer vinyls you guys seem to be discussing. Anyone got a clear guide for the best way to do a plastic repro?
—Donnie
I wouldn't use the cameo, you'd be weeding forever.
There's a great tutorial on YouTube how to use waterslide decals to make plastics. I've made a few. Color LaserJet will provide better results than inkjet.
1 month later
Quoted from roar:I'm working on a pinball related project and have been looking at a Cameo or Cricut to make some stencils for it. I, like others are having a hard time justifying the purchase price for one project... anyone local to me own a Cameo and would be up for cutting some stencils? Happy to discuss compensation with the understanding that if the costs get to be the same as buying a Cameo I'd go that route. I've got some .ai files to work with as a starting point... and actually bought some vvivid vinyl that could be used if you are driving distance local... hit me up if you have some time/interest.
I got a practically new Cameo 3 2 years ago for $90USD on Facebook Marketplace. Or just take it to a sign shop.
1 week later
1 year later
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