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(Topic ID: 105393)

Silhouette Cameo Pinball Restorers Club!

By Curbfeeler

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 479 posts
  • 89 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by BeachPickle
  • Topic is favorited by 213 Pinsiders


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    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dr_nybble.
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    #36 5 years ago

    I've joined the club and am awaiting delivery of GerberMask I Ultra from the US. Didn't feel like springing for a 50 yd roll! Regional Supply uses the awful iGlobalStores for Canadian delivery so I'm having my father send it up.

    What are the settings for cutting GerberMask? Knife depth and speed....

    2 months later
    #50 5 years ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    I've joined the club and am awaiting delivery of GerberMask I Ultra from the US. Didn't feel like springing for a 50 yd roll! Regional Supply uses the awful iGlobalStores for Canadian delivery so I'm having my father send it up.
    What are the settings for cutting GerberMask? Knife depth and speed....

    Slight problem, my father ordered 10 rolls of transfer tape instead of 10 yards of GerberMask!!!! Got more than a lifetime supply of that stuff now -- 1000 yards

    For Canadians, you can get GerberMask by the yard from ND Graphics at $8.01 / yard (or $4.40/yard for a 50 yard roll). I tried ordering a roll from the US they would not sell to me due to their dealer agreement.

    Update -- had to buy a roll, they told me they don't sell it by the yard and made a mistake

    1 week later
    #54 5 years ago
    Quoted from eh97ac:

    NG or ND Graphics? I cannot find a site for NG.

    Sorry ND Graphics. But they told me they made a mistake and they don't sell it by the yard only the roll. So I am getting a roll, tired of trying to get this stuff!

    They told me it is coming from Toronto, maybe you can convince a Toronto store to sell it by the yard.

    #55 5 years ago
    Quoted from TheRingMaster:

    Hi there! I'm going to replicate the side art on my High Speed. Now I only have the silhouette cameo so my question is how did you cut those big stencils for your side art? As far as I know (have not yet experimented enough) the cameo won't be able to cut anything larger than the cutting mat.. Did you use a larger plotter/one that can plot larger masks/stencils? The side art evidently can't be cut with the cameo but maybe the backbox art if it's possible to cut from a longer piece of masking material.
    I was thinking I could try to do small pieces and align them on the cab but being able to cut the whole thing at once is of course to prefer. So, how did you accomplish this?

    The cutting mat is for materials that don't have their own sturdy backing. The roll of vinyl or Gerbermask or whatever can be fed directly into the cutter.

    4 months later
    #70 4 years ago

    Who can give me some tips on positioning a large stencil? I tried floating it on some soapy water, I seemed to need a lot of water before I could get anywhere near a movable stencil. Still I couldn't really get it to float around while keeping it straight. Maybe the stencil is too big.

    I am going to try transfer tape to position it instead and then carefully adhere it while not moving it from its original position. I also split up a large irregular mask into a few pieces to make it easier to manage.

    #72 4 years ago

    Sounds better than water on a wood play field, I'll give it a whirl thanks!

    1 month later
    #81 4 years ago

    rufessor, I am looking forward to any updates you have on Silhouette settings and so forth that you have learned from your experiments.

    If you use Inkscape, or perhaps your Affinity Designer tool is the same, you must scale the SVG after bringing it into the Silhouette tool. For Inkscape scale it by 25%. This is due to the DPI assumptions made by the tools (Inkscape=90DPI, Silhouette=72DPI).

    I also found that the SVG size is computed differently for Inkscape/Silhouette. For Inkscape it measures from the edge of the object stroke whereas Silhouette does not care about the stroke width. Don't worry that the size of the image shows still different after scaling by 25% or whatever, it is just the different choice on where to measure the object between Inkscape and Silhouette. You can verify this by creating a 10cm square with 1cm stroke width to understand how they measure objects differently.

    #82 4 years ago
    Quoted from tezting:

    The material you are using, is it possible to buy it in Europe?

    Yes -- see

    #90 4 years ago
    Quoted from tezting:

    Just got message from store that the product is not available anymore and never will !

    I'm sure you can use any other type of paint mask. I did try to order some from the U.S. and they wouldn't sell it to me because of distributor agreement, I ended up buying a 50 yd. roll in Canada since they don't sell it by the yard!

    5 months later
    #102 4 years ago

    I am cutting GerberMask Ultra to repaint a worn area on an old playfield I am cleaning up. But this stuff is very opaque, I am having a hard time positioning it over the original artwork. Is there some trick to this?

    Is there an alternative stencil mask material that is more transparent? I did find clear transfer tape is available but what about stencil mask?

    #103 4 years ago

    I'm going to give this stuff a try:

    1 x MACtac Paint Masking stencil Vinyl 12'' x 10 yds
    1 x 6" x 100ft Flat Application Transfer tape Premask - Clear

    Oramask 813 also seems like it is suitable.

    #105 4 years ago
    Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

    You have to make some registration marks for yourself. Find at least two(three is better) points of origin outside of the area to be stenciled. Add them to your stencil as tic marks or pin holes that you can align as you lower it down to be put in place.

    I had thought of trying that, good idea. The new stencil mask I am getting is transparent and the transfer tape is clear so we'll see how it cuts...should make things a lot easier.

    #106 4 years ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    I had thought of trying that, good idea. The new stencil mask I am getting is transparent and the transfer tape is clear so we'll see how it cuts...should make things a lot easier.

    The transparent transfer tape is helpful. However, the transparent stencil mask doesn't help much -- the problem is that the stencil backing is opaque and that really is what you need to see through.

    I wil try the registration technique instead. Probably cut cross-hairs so I can cut an opening with a hole punch and line it up to the cross-hairs.

    4 months later
    #113 3 years ago

    The cutting mat is for material that doesn't have a sticky backing, like paper or card stock. Paint mask can be cut with no mat.

    #119 3 years ago
    Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

    I am not clear on this, you cut that on a Cameo?

    Cameo had a 12" width but the length could be long. Material just feeds through it via rollers.

    Of course you could look at larger vinyl cutters 24" width or larger! Can get quite expensive.

    It is worth noting that you need to buy a $50 software upgrade for the Silhouette to import SVG files.

    #120 3 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    What material are you using?
    How are you transferring something that large off the backing paper to the cabinet?

    Previously in the thread someone described the "hinge" method for laying down large stencils. Tape it down some distance from the edge, peel back some of the backing material from the edge and cut it off. Then adhere the stencil where the backing is removed. Now you can remove the tape and start peeling back the rest of the backing material and laying it down as you go. Once it is down you remove the transfer tape. Lots of videos on it will probably demonstrate it better than I can describe it!

    1 week later
    #126 3 years ago

    Look for the HP 4670 or 4600 -- they have a large scan bed so if you need to scan a cabinet or entire playfield you have fewer images to stitch.

    The other alternative is the Doxie Flip. It is battery powered so very convenient to use, no wires to wrangle like the HP scanner. I have scanned an entire cabinet side and stitched with ICE.

    #131 3 years ago

    Have you thought of using a laser cutter to cut hardboard? I was able to use my public library's laser cutter to do this for free (price of materials only, about $20). You then have a 1/8" thick pretty rigid stencil. I was clued into this by Fred736, check out his post here:

    You might check with him to see what kind of overspray effect he got. (I've cut all my stencils but haven't used them yet...)

    2 weeks later
    #135 3 years ago

    Yes it just fits.

    #137 3 years ago
    Quoted from pinheadpierre:

    Thanks. I didn't want to spend that much on a roll of the stuff only to find out that it didn't fit without some pita modification.

    If you are in the US you can order it from Regional Supply by the yard.

    #139 3 years ago

    I asked my father to buy 10 yards of transfer tape for me, he bought 10 rolls instead

    I brought one roll back when I visited him last year.

    3 weeks later
    #146 3 years ago

    Maybe someone cut a 24" roll in half?

    I use GerberMask. Positioning is a problem. I bought transparent transfer tape, that helps a lot. I remove the backing (or half of it) and then get it into position. GerberMask isn't so tacky that you can't reposition it if you lay it down lightly.

    3 months later
    #151 3 years ago

    Anyone tried the Graphtec CB09 holder and blades? I have read that they perform well for tiny text/cutting.
    For smallish text I often find that the "holes" in letters do not stay put when the Gerbermask is cut.

    I am going to systematically try blade depth/thickness settings to see what is optimal for Gerbermask Ultra.

    I bought this item: link » Us Graphtec Cb09 Holder Silhouette Cameo Craftrobo Vinyl Cutter Plotter 15 Blade

    Once I receive it I'll do some testing to see which blades work best for fine detail work (e.g., small text).

    3 weeks later
    #155 3 years ago

    Still waiting for China Post to deliver it........

    #157 3 years ago

    You probably need to adjust your auto trace settings They are not "tight" enough. I use Inkscape, I haven't played with any Silhouette tracing facilities.

    I think you will have trouble getting those tiny areas in the 5,000 to cut properly.

    Personally I haven't used the auto tracing much. I usually redraw everything by hand.

    #159 3 years ago

    Scale by 25% after importing from Inkscape.

    That having been said, I have not tried the Silhouette drawing tools, I should give them a shot.

    2 months later
    #184 3 years ago

    Try Inkscape it is free and does the job.

    #194 3 years ago
    Quoted from DropTarget:

    Hi All,
    I'm thinking of doing some playfield touch ups, has anyone here tried using the die cut stencils to silk screen with, instead of paint?
    Also, I'm thinking of creating cabinet there a preferred machine to use for that? Is there a preferred machine in general? Silhouette Cameo / Curio / Profile / Cricut etc? Does it really matter?

    I'd be interested too in knowing if someone has used a stencil to mask a silk screen. May be a good solution for one-off screens instead of burning a screen for it. Has to be tacky enough to adhere to the mesh.

    1 week later
    #206 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

    What model is the scanner? I seem to recall that there is one that works best and cannot remember. I need to find one of those on e-bay I guess.

    HP ScanJet 4600 or 4670.
    Make sure it is the scanner and not just the transparent materials adapter (TMA).

    This also works although the scan bed is much smaller. It is easier to wrangle though because it runs on batteries (plus it is readily available):

    11 months later
    #304 2 years ago

    Curves should be perfect, but I use Inkscape.

    10 months later
    #354 1 year ago

    Guess I know how I’ll redo the graphics on my BSD apron now, thanks! Going to try Oracal 651.

    3 months later
    #364 1 year ago

    The Silhouette can cut very precisely, the problem with small lettering is the tiny fragments can get dragged around by the knife or won't adhere properly because they are too small. So there does come a point where waterslide may be better, or you may have to touch up holes in letters with a tiny brush.

    Screens for screen printing have a DPI value for the mesh, you can even figure it out by looking at stair-step patterns on curves that you scan. I think 600 DPI is adequate for redrawing the artwork, once it is vectorized it doesn't matter what the DPI of the underlying scan is.

    1 month later
    #372 11 months ago

    Just finished up a project repainting my Bram Stoker's Dracula apron. The apron on this machine had some rust and crappy stickers.

    First I removed the stickers and paint from the apron with citrus stripper. Then it was primed and rattle can painted. Worked well enough, still some bumpy spots where the metal was eaten by rust.

    Next I scanned an original screen-printed apron using my Doxie Flip It is a small battery-powered scanner that is so convenient to use for small scans. I do have an HP 4670 but only use it for large areas.

    The scans were brought into GIMP where I used the "Threshold..." option to reduce it to black & white.
    gimp_threshold (resized).png

    After that the images are brought into Inkscape. The "Trace bitmap..." option is used to convert the scan to a vectorized image. Straight lines are redrawn and the paths are separated into two layers coloured for convenience.
    inkscape (resized).png

    Next the SVGs are cut in Silhouette Studio. After opening the SVG the images must be scaled 125% due to DPI differences between Inkscape and Silhouette Studio. I am using GerberMask Ultra as the paint mask with these settings:
    GerberMask Ultra (resized).png

    Masks are cut and then weeded under a magnifying lamp with an exacto knife and tweezers. I didn't bother trying to keep the tiny pieces like the middle of the letter A -- they are too small to manage I found. I just painted those by hand with a brush after.

    Next you use transfer tape on top of the mask. I used Cricut 2002363 Vinyl Transfer Tape which is completely transparent.

    Position the paint mask on the surface and tack it down on one end with painter's tape. Then peel back and cut maybe an inch of backing and adhere the mask. Remove the painters tape and slowly remove the release paper from the mask while applying it to the surface.

    Push down on the stencil bits before removing the transfer tape. Still I had some problems with paint leakage under the mask due I think to the not perfectly smooth surface of the apron.

    I sprayed the blue first and then the red. For positioning the red, I included the corners of the blue in the mask. I removed the corners of the release paper and aligned the stencil against the already blue paint then covered it up with scraps of paint mask. You can also include registration marks to help alignment.

    I used Golden High Flow paints. They have a handy mixer app here: I used this with a Pantone swatch book to mix up the paint. The blue wasn't that close actually so I had to adjust to get it closer.

    Since I am painting on a black background I first had to lay down white. You can see on the screen printed apron this is how it was originally done too since the coloured screen inks are not opaque. I found what was best was to spray a light coat of the base black colour first to help seal up the stencil from any leaks. Then a few light coats of white before the colour went down.

    Spray very light coats. If the paint goes on wet it wants to crawl under any gaps in the stencil. Very hard to resist the temptation to paint too heavy.

    I did have to do a bunch of touchups with a tiny brush and black to fix some leakage under the stencil. Still, it turned out pretty well and the next one will be better. Any questions please ask.

    IMG_5642 (resized).JPG

    Detail of the Dracula lettering. Color looks a bit washed out from the flash.

    IMG_5644 (resized).JPG

    3 months later
    #411 7 months ago

    I’ve got lots of GerberMask and can cut it if you don’t mind the shipping wait. Think you are in a Nordic country?

    You might want to read my effort at doing an apron above.

    #417 7 months ago

    An apron redone in vinyl:

    An apron redone by airbrush:

    An apron redone by rub-on transfer:

    Personally I'd be inclined to do rub-on transfer. Let me know which way you want to go (PM if you want me to cut paint mask for you).

    2 weeks later
    4 months later
    #468 60 days ago

    Silhouette power! Total repaint in progress. Key lines will hide many sins.

    image (resized).jpg

    1 month later
    #473 6 days ago

    I've tried the registration mark feature of the Silhouette to cut out labels for old EMs and it works great! Especially nice where the labels have rounded corners.

    If you've never tried it, you basically print from Silhouette Studio and select an option to add registration marks.

    Then you cut, and the Silhouette automatically scans for and finds the registration marks so the cuts line up with your print. Cool!

    #477 4 days ago

    I suppose if you were desperate you could draw the registration graphic at the right spot and print from Illustrator. Or maybe print it as a PDF from Silhouette Studio and re-import the registration marks back into Illustrator.

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