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(Topic ID: 105393)

Silhouette Cameo Pinball Restorers Club!

By Curbfeeler

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 473 posts
  • 86 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by dr_nybble
  • Topic is favorited by 212 Pinsiders


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    #156 3 years ago

    So I noticed upon further inspection, my Cameo is cutting along the red path, no wonder my first sample looked funky and run together.
    The cut line can be manipulated to more closely match the outline, but it so time consuming. I thought it was going to be a simple import / trace procedure of vector images but seems more complicated than I originally thought. Surely I'm missing a step somewhere.
    Anyone have any tips on correction of this issue?

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    #165 3 years ago

    I got much better results after I adjust the cut lines in the Cameo software...

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    #169 3 years ago

    Hold the phone, I think I just found a very simple way to get results 100x easier... and faster than retracing. (if this is covered earlier in this thread I missed it)

    First, note the image size of desired result, once open in Silhouette, make the image as large as you can, THEN do your trace function. It should very easily determine the cutting lines, once traced, shrink the image down to the desired size and voila, the result should be a very accurate trace, even for the small stuff. See example:

    The 5,000 When Lit... Graphic created and cleaned up in PS, then open in Cameo, I scale it roughly 4X of the final size, did the trace, took the result back down to the desired size of 1.5" and BOOM, did not even bother to retrace! It actually took longer to post this and "weed" the template than getting the trace accurate!
    I'm a little more stoked than before now with these findings. Hope you can replicate the results!

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    2 months later
    #174 3 years ago

    Anyone else aside from me and rufosor have these similar issues? Possible suggested solutions?

    #179 3 years ago
    Quoted from Skins:

    What am I missing on buying photoshop. You can't just buy the damn thing outright? Monthly, yearly

    Nope, it's subscription based now!

    #188 3 years ago
    Quoted from Curbfeeler:

    I exported that to DXF, imported that to the Cameo software, then scaled it

    I'm so glad I re-read this, I had tried using DWG and DXF before but each time I used the trace function of the Cameo, however when using DXF at least, you DO NOT need to use TRACE. Simply make sure your scale is correct and send to the cut function on the Cameo.
    I'm not sure why I thought to try this but I did it over the weekend and what result! So I wanted to mention it here again to make sure you use the DXF file type and ignore the trace function of the Cameo. Check out these results, I used a standard size Exacto blade to illustrate scale, these are from the apron. I will say to generate a DXF I had to used PS to do my art touch-up, then used Illustrator to open and "clean" the image and then used the EXPORT function of AI to generate the DXF, then opened the DXF in Cameo and follow the order of operations listed above and in the post by the OP. Hope this helps.

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    2 months later
    #226 2 years ago

    I have to lock up one of my cat's each time I just turn on my Cameo, she is under the impression it is her toy!

    2 months later
    #230 2 years ago
    Quoted from chaskett:

    Not sure I can do anything with the .ai format, but I'll try. I mainly work in Autocad, export to dxf,

    If you need help pm me, I have ai and ps so can convert between various file types.

    1 month later
    #246 2 years ago
    Quoted from tomds:

    What material are you guys using for making playfield stencils?

    Oracal 813 and or Gerbermask

    1 month later
    #259 2 years ago

    Yes, to combat that, I unroll mine and lay flat a day or two before cutting, use a smoother to eliminate bubbles prior to loading into the Cameo, then cut away. After those exercises, I've had no issues.

    #266 2 years ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    the 3 instead of the earlier versions?

    I think the only difference is keypad?
    This is mine, think it's a 3

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    1 month later
    #273 2 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    Anyone ever have issues with Oramask lifting other artwork when removed

    Did you pull it at 90 or 180degrees?
    If you pull it straight up it can cause issues, it's best to get it started then essentially lay it on itself to remove. As close to 180 degrees as you can.
    This minimizes the amount of surface tension of the product being removed.

    #280 2 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    After adding another layer of 2pac and then storing the PF indoors for a week, we have success. Using heat to cure the paint with the oramask in place had no ill effects.

    Nah, you found a NOS PF..., it looks too good to be a touch up!

    #284 2 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    "When Importing DXF" make sure 'As is' is selected.

    This will keep your DXF size 1 on import.

    Cool, I learned something new today!

    1 month later
    #294 2 years ago

    Cameo experts I need some help. I recently changed computers and had to load all new versions of PS, AI and Cameo, now when I export my file in AI as a DXF and try to import it to Cameo there is NOTHING there. (edit I accidentally opened the PNG version not the DXF)
    I've tried all the various save file options I could think of, used jodyg tip of

    Quoted from JodyG:

    You should see "When Importing DXF" make sure 'As is' is selected.

    tip, and still nothing.
    Can someone examine your settings and maybe help me figure out what I'm doing wrong?
    My AI version is 22.1 and Silhouette ver 4.1.206ss

    #295 2 years ago

    Well after experimenting all effing day, I realized one has to TRACE the image in AI before exporting as a DXF.

    That is what I get for not using this stuff every day.

    2 months later
    #305 2 years ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Anyone have trouble getting true curves?

    Did you you the trace function in cameo or did you export from AI to a DXF and then import the dxf in cameo?
    I had problems like yours before I started using dxf files, now i never use the trace function.

    7 months later
    #326 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballBillinFL:

    I'm getting set up to do a restore on my playfield (1975 Williams Little Chief)

    Little Chief looks like a great candidate for mostly using Frisket. Large sections with straight lines, simple colors. I would LOVE to work on something from this era.
    I debated about full stencils for a Silverball Mania, in the end decided to use primarily waterslide decals for the detail work.

    I start in Photoshop, create and adjust the art, then switch to Illustrator to create the DXF files for the cameo, direct import those and then cut away.

    Quoted from PinballBillinFL:

    Or would I be better off just doing the more detailed parts, and sticking to frisket for the remainder?

    So my answer to this question is yes, waterslide for high detail items, frisket for the bulk of it.

    #336 1 year ago

    If it were ME, I would cut stencil for the red, yellow and white for the LITES DOUBLE and advances kick out... , I would take the quick way out and do waterslide decals for the text. In the lower ADVANCE BONUS, I would cut stencil for the yellow, blue & black, again cheat and do waterslides for text, it might be basic enough that you could stencil that if you were so inclined.
    For the other area of LITES DOUBLE 1-6, I would stencil the red, blue & black, waterslide decals for the 1 - 6.
    Purists will likely suggest stencil all of the text but I'm not a purist. Further I'm still a novice when it comes to the Cameo and my experience has not been the best when attempting to make stencils on it with very fine lines often required for text.

    4 weeks later
    #341 1 year ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    I've considered just chopping up my decal in a few smaller sections and applying that way

    I've done it this way and also the same as smaller stencils, using transfer tape over the entire stencil.

    3 weeks later
    #345 1 year ago

    I was finishing up the masking layer for a translite last night and it occurred to me this may be something others struggle with and if stated in here was early on.
    I always had trouble weeding my work until I started using a piece of scrap to "collect" the weeds.
    I take the scrap, remove the backing, place the adhesive side up and then simply touch the weeds to the adhesive to remove it from my fingers. It's amazing how the stuff clings to skin.
    Anyway here is a quick image of an in process work, scrap piece on the left of the work piece, tuck corners of the scrap side down to temporarily hold it in place.
    Hope this helps someone out there.

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    7 months later
    #381 9 months ago

    Tip of the week (maybe) might have been posted by others, I did not look back...

    Doing a custom street sign for a customer this week, when doing large stencils, or in this case vinyl letters, have the cutter add 'relief' cuts (in RED).
    This makes weeding so much easier as I find them to greatly reduce the risk of tearing the cut material during the weeding process.
    I've had to re-cut too many stencils before I decided to pre-cut relief sections.

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    #384 9 months ago
    Quoted from gawlicd:

    What type of paint (enamel,Acrylic water etc) are you using for playfield stencil work. I've tried airbrushing water thinned craft acrylics on glass before and had little bubbles pop up. Looked funny.

    1 month later
    #397 8 months ago
    Quoted from SJJ:

    My only complaint is that it is limited by the size of the media that can be cut. If I thought that I would be getting into this on a larger scale such as stencils for cabinet restoration ,I would definitely consider one that could cut larger media.

    I've had success piecing stencil together for cabs using Cameo. It took some practice but hell for the cost, it's manageable - well for me anyway.

    #399 8 months ago
    Quoted from gawlicd:

    Ordered uscutter 28 sc2 and some oramask stencil.

    Sweet, please be sure to update the results!

    2 weeks later
    #406 7 months ago
    Quoted from pinheadpierre:

    Does anyone here have a scan (or better yet cameo art) for an early Stern apron?

    I can go by my storage and pull / scan this one from a Magic this weekend if no one else can do it sooner or this one will not work for you?
    Obviously I'll remove the vending decals first (hopefully w/o damage).

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    3 weeks later
    4 weeks later
    #433 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mneubey:

    Yeah. Weeding it was a ton of work, but worth it in the end. I just put a new blade on my machine, and was worried about the fine details being too small, but this thing knocked it out no problem.

    That looks fantastic, I'd be curious if you remember your settings you used. I've found my attempts at precise fine detail like that to fail.

    3 months later
    #457 55 days ago

    While I've had my cameo a while and shown in here some success, I still struggle with getting large projects like cab stencils to feed straight.
    I've searched this topic for FEED, ALIGNMENT and STRAIGHT and can only seem to find discussion on how to lay the already created stencil straight etc.
    I've had projects where I will walk away from my Cameo only to come back and find it has gone way off to one side and 30+ inches of material is wasted.

    Here is where my question comes in, how does one make sure the material getting loaded into the Cameo stays square?
    It is not indexed or registered or anything, it just feeds in with only a guide line for visual alignment, no mechanical means for perfectly square work?

    #459 55 days ago
    Quoted from mark532011:

    i think you are describing two different issues. Getting it square in the machine and keeping it from slipping

    Sorry, my explanation was a little confusing. I've not experience any slippage. Guess for that I've been lucky for I too pull out up to 60 inches for my long cuts. The reason I have wasted material is that it does not feed perfectly square so even a 1/32 or 1/64 of misalignment can be drastic after 30+ inches of travel.
    My machine does have a manual feed that I will use to 'scroll' up and then back to try and get it square but that tactic is not perfect. I just wanted to make sure I was not missing some magic tool that other used for a perfect square feed.

    I like your method of a test square... have to ponder that one.

    #460 55 days ago

    Just so happens I had to cut a masking layer for a translite I am making. Here is how I currently set up for lengthy cuts.
    Again, my Cameo does have a manual feed under the 4 arrows option, then I feed in the material while watching the alignment line on the left.
    I also move the far right roller pressure thing more to the middle. That way if it does get out of alignment some, it will still put pressure on the material. Place carboard under the cutter to prevent the material from getting caught on the carpet.
    Just really with there was a more mechanical method for getting the material to run square through the cutter.
    Am I missing anything?
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