Corpus Christi, TX
Soooooo, where can I get the Gerber in a smaller roll? 'Cause it's kinda pricey that way! 
(Topic ID: 105393)
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1 month later
Quoted from winteriscoming:I have a Silhouette Portrait, which is the smaller version. I used it to make decals for some classic Stern drop targets, but haven't done stencils yet. I may try to repair my Space Shuttle pf with it. This is some good info here.
One concern I'd have about using water to slide the stencils around, is having it soak into any damaged, unsealed areas of the wood. Anyone having issues with that?
Not if you fix the damage and seal it against water first.
Quoted from Steevsee64:Just got my cameo a couple of days ago.
Here's some test prints I did.
The fine detail is incredible.
What is your material?
I get what you are saying about the Oramask, but I am still having great results with it for bigger items. Here's a few samples of the home made stencils I did for my latest projects.
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IMG_3616.JPGThanks!
Yessir! That's some sharp work there.
The waterslide stuff I did on the acrylic pin worked out well. I am going to try the Gerbermask the next time I have really small and detailed lettering. I may be doing an acrylic bingo and EM shooter next. EBD and Space Invaders should be wrapping up soon.
3 months later
I use the Signwarehouse LXi software with one of their 24" desktop vinyl cutters at work. Decent stuff.
1 month later
Quoted from TheRingMaster:So, how did you accomplish this?
As dr_nybble said, the Oramask can be fed directly in, no mat needed. I did the side stencils in two runs. It's a pain to do but it works. Alignment is obviously key. It also took me a bit to figure out the settings on the layout of the software so it would do that. You have to specify the length/width of the material, etc.
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So here is one run through the Cameo getting as much as I could in a single shot. I next did the upper half and then aligned them as best as I could and shot the paint. Much easier if I could cut it in one piece but you do the best you can with what you got.
3 weeks later
Quoted from rufessor:That space invaders stencil is awesome- Congrats- more than a little work went into that and it came out incredible.
Thanks! I appreciate that. A few hours went into cleaning that one up, but still cake compared to the 6M$M I did a few years back. Ouch!
Quoted from mark532011:Post some pics of using the Cameo! want to see some cool stuff
please
I using it now to do work on my super cheap backglass replacement project. I don't want to post the same stuff in a different place so here's a link if you want to see. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cowboys-vs-aliens-a-side-by-side-rehab-project/page/4#post-2695555
3 months later
Cover the whole stencil with transfer tape. Position the stencil and secure one side of it with good painters tape. Lift from the opposite end and peel back 1/3 to 1/2 of the backing. Cut it off and lay it back down while squeegieing from the center out. Once that is down and smooth, remove the tape and lift and peel the other side. Squeegie it down from the center out. Voila. I make large (6' X 25') vinyl signs as a part of my job and I have never, ever used soapy water. Just makes a big mess, IMHO.
1 month later
3 weeks later
"Publicly available images and logos." As for the pinstripes, get a simple program like, oh maybe Photoshop Elements which comes free with Wacom draw pads. Start a new project with dimensions of maybe 10" tall by 25" wide? Then, using some very careful measurements, use a 35pixel paintbrush and mark all the starting points and corners of the outer strips. Connect the dots. Move 3/16 of an inch inward and run the second stripe. Cut the thinner stripe. Add an outline effect in the cutter software of .03" and cut the fatter color. Peel! Stick! Enjoy! (Ask questions if nesc,) Yes, the file repository is a fast way to trouble.
4 months later
Quoted from dr_nybble:Is there some trick to this?
You have to make some registration marks for yourself. Find at least two(three is better) points of origin outside of the area to be stenciled. Add them to your stencil as tic marks or pin holes that you can align as you lower it down to be put in place.
4 months later
Yes, cut it on my Cameo. It's 2 12" pieces put together. As mentioned, hinge method for placing large stencils.
1 week later
I use a DSLR camera, combine the images in Microsoft ICE( Image Composite Editor), edit and clean them up in Photoshop Elements(PSE) and then use Inkscape to vectorize the image. Or, it the surface is smooth enough, I have a hand held digital scanner I use. It's a Wolverine brand scanner, model #PASS-200 twin roller. Then process the images the same way.
Shawn
Quoted from BrewNinja:Does the wolverine distort at all? Looks like that was an issue with some of the vupoints I looked at.
It does very well if the surface is flat. One little bump will throw it for a loop. Also, I have found that inconsistent speed of roll will affect the size of the image. And as someone else mentioned, using the DSLR requires a consistent distance from the work, correcting for angles and the acceptance of some minor distortion. For my purposes, it works just fine.
8 months later
What model is the scanner? I seem to recall that there is one that works best and cannot remember. I need to find one of those on e-bay I guess.
Shawn
1 month later
RGAires I agree with the above. It will cut the lettering okay, but maybe not the bridge. And if you do try it, fill in the things you are cutting so they are solid, else the cutter will cut both sides of the lines.
Shawn
4 months later
It's all possible... My home made EBD back glass. Printed on paper at "FastSigns" shop where I have lots of stuff done that is beyond my home capabilities. Coated with a protective clear layer and then sandwiched between two sheets of 1/8" plexi. I did all the insert cutouts on the back. About $50 all in.
Shawn
3 weeks later
Me neither. I get mine at https://www.signwarehouse.com/
Shawn
4 months later
Quoted from dudah:Hoping lining them up works out.
Did my SI stencils in two pieces. Just takes a little patience.
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