(Topic ID: 105393)

Silhouette Cameo Pinball Restorers Club!

By Curbfeeler

9 years ago


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  • 782 posts
  • 116 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 28 days ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 261 Pinsiders

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    11
    #350 4 years ago

    My first meaningful use of my Silhouette, looks 10x better than the shitty mylar sticker they sell.

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    #352 4 years ago
    Quoted from mark532011:

    sweet, how did you size it? Can't lay that thing down on a scanner can you?

    I actually just downloaded a pic off the web and resized it in the Silhouette software

    1 year later
    #482 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    This might be unrelated sorry.
    Wondering if anybody here has used a cricut to make custom made vinyl protection? Instead of using mylar.

    I do , have made lots of protectors for around the pops on restorations / playfield swaps. I also use it for shooter lanes etc

    1 week later
    #486 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    awesome to hear, I would be curious to learn more about your experience and also wondering if they hold up well. Do you find the vinyl is as resistant as mylar?
    I am interested to know what level of accuracy you can achieve and how resistant the material is. How easy it is to install and remove, etc.
    I am also in Ottawa btw! any chances you can make me a few so I can test in my games?

    I don’t really have any long term data in terms of how well they hold up but certainly it provides adequate protection for my needs. It is not nearly as thick as the mylar they used to put on playfield so certainly won’t provide that kind of protection. I’ve only used it on a good clear coated surfaces. Always wax before applying to facilitate easy removal.

    PM me with details of what you want and I’ll cut you some test bits.

    #488 3 years ago
    Quoted from sethbenjamin:Just buy mylar in sheets and cut it down. I buy rolls from PinRestore. Draw out whatever shape you need in AI or using the cutter’s software and it’s all set.

    Didn’t know they sold rolls, Thanks I’ve ordered a couple

    #491 3 years ago
    Quoted from Kawydud:

    I have been using Oracal clear vinyl for all of the protection I put on games. It comes off very easily when you see any wear. I use Oracal 751 - Transparent. https://denversignsupply.com/product/oracal-751-high-performance-cast/

    That is what I use now, I’ll see how the Pinrestore mylar cuts , it’s clarity and what I prefer.

    #493 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    is this shipping from the US?

    yes I’ve purchased tons of stuff from Pinrestore, they only charge actual shipping costs (started at $40 and they refunded me $17.80) I don’t know of any place local that sells “pinball” mylar.

    5 months later
    #516 2 years ago

    You can also make a custom T shirt to wear while playing your new Pinball

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    #518 2 years ago
    Quoted from MrMikeman:

    I like it!
    I should really try to make some cool stuff too. I have all the material already like heat transfer rolls and even the glass etching kit. Never bothered.
    Was it hard to align both colors?

    I didn’t find it hard to align. The transfer sheet is tacky so it stays put while aligning it, at least on the stuff I have from J and J (Amazon)

    1 year later
    #669 10 months ago

    I’d like to share my latest playfield restoration project using my Silhouette

    This is my technique for playfield restos
    For most of the large areas, in this case, it is easier to cut the masks in place by hand and exacto blade, I use Frisket for this.
    Flat bed scan areas that are detailed and cut out masks with the Cameo to airbrush/brush paint.
    Scan all of the lettering that needs to be reproduced.
    Airbrush all major areas covering the existing text and apply a layer of clear to lock in
    In this case sand and install new inserts
    Sand slightly to remove sheen
    In Silhouette Studio using the Text Tool match up the font and character size of the text by overlaying on the scan and cut them out of Oracle 751c
    Cut out the various size keyline circles
    Apply text and keyline circles
    Apply several good coats of clear and let it die back for a couple weeks.
    Sand flat taking the thickness of the vinyl down with the clear so that it is level
    Apply detail paint then clear, as many times as required
    Polish

    I also scanned and cut masking for portions or the cabinet

    Apologies for missing taking photos of a lot of the progress

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    3 months later
    #717 7 months ago

    I have a cheap Epson v39 works fine

    3 months later
    #764 3 months ago

    If I am clearcoating the playfield I cut the keylines and text out of the thinest vinyl I think it is Oracle 731. After painting I apply the decals then clear and sand flat and level, let it cure a couple weeks resand and clear. Keylines and lettering is perfect. Been doing this for several years all good.

    Most of the text and keylines on this are vinyl

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    #770 3 months ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    Oracal 751? It's 2mil thick, I'd think you'd need a good coat of clear to bury that.
    But if it works it works!
    I got some UV DTF print samples a while back and they are about 2-3 mils so maybe they are viable to use: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/171#post-7785236
    Wonder how thick the airbrushed letters are. Anyone have a film thickness gauge? https://www.defelsko.com/positector-200

    Like i say above you clear then sand ,it knocks down the height of the vinyl to the same height. Let it die back then sand again and do final coats

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