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(Topic ID: 105393)

Silhouette Cameo Pinball Restorers Club!


By Curbfeeler

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 479 posts
  • 89 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by BeachPickle
  • Topic is favorited by 213 Pinsiders

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    There are 479 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 10.
    #251 2 years ago
    Quoted from DCRand:

    I am not sure how it will work out. Have a friend with a digital sign printer that prints on glass. Going to print the image, then cut opaque vinyl film for the areas that don't light. (I am in the sign business). We will see how that works.

    Looks like it will come through even through its from another thread. That got me thinking, if you printed your own backglass and then wanted an opaque area to prevent light from shining through some areas, couldn't you cut out the mylar with the cameo and lay it down - seems like it would be pretty trivial, just big rounded areas, perhaps even glue it to the back? seems like you could do a pretty good backglass

    #252 2 years ago
    Quoted from mark532011:

    Looks like it will come through even through its from another thread. That got me thinking, if you printed your own backglass and then wanted an opaque area to prevent light from shining through some areas, couldn't you cut out the mylar with the cameo and lay it down - seems like it would be pretty trivial, just big rounded areas, perhaps even glue it to the back? seems like you could do a pretty good backglass

    You can also get black sign vinyl from almost any one day sign shop. If you create a digital file from the pic of the back of an original back glass, they could cut it for you too.

    #253 2 years ago

    It's all possible... My home made EBD back glass. Printed on paper at "FastSigns" shop where I have lots of stuff done that is beyond my home capabilities. Coated with a protective clear layer and then sandwiched between two sheets of 1/8" plexi. I did all the insert cutouts on the back. About $50 all in.

    Shawn

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    #254 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

    It's all possible... My home made EBD back glass. Printed on paper at "FastSigns" shop where I have lots of stuff done that is beyond my home capabilities. Coated with a protective clear layer and then sandwiched between two sheets of 1/8" plexi. I did all the insert cutouts on the back. About $50 all in.
    Shawn

    Nice, looks good.

    #255 2 years ago

    Great idea. Looks good

    #256 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

    It's all possible... My home made EBD back glass. Printed on paper at "FastSigns" shop where I have lots of stuff done that is beyond my home capabilities. Coated with a protective clear layer and then sandwiched between two sheets of 1/8" plexi. I did all the insert cutouts on the back. About $50 all in.
    Shawn

    I think this is the only route to go. I just can't stomach paying $300 for back glass when it can be done for $40-$50.

    #257 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

    It's all possible... My home made EBD back glass. Printed on paper at "FastSigns" shop where I have lots of stuff done that is beyond my home capabilities. Coated with a protective clear layer and then sandwiched between two sheets of 1/8" plexi. I did all the insert cutouts on the back. About $50 all in.
    Shawn

    Looks great!!

    3 weeks later
    #258 2 years ago

    Has anyone had issues with bubbles in 813 when un-rolling? I have had this issue making it pretty much useless. Looking at reviews on Amazon it seems to be a common issue?

    #259 2 years ago

    Yes, to combat that, I unroll mine and lay flat a day or two before cutting, use a smoother to eliminate bubbles prior to loading into the Cameo, then cut away. After those exercises, I've had no issues.

    #260 2 years ago
    Quoted from tomds:

    Has anyone had issues with bubbles in 813 when un-rolling? I have had this issue making it pretty much useless. Looking at reviews on Amazon it seems to be a common issue?

    Never had that issue. I buy mine from uscutter.com not Amazon.

    #262 2 years ago

    No issues here either, also get mine from uscutter.

    #263 2 years ago

    Maybe I had a bad roll?

    #264 2 years ago

    Maybe the stuff from amazon is really old or not handled properly (total guesses). When you buy from a sign supply place, you know its going to be fresh stuff at least.

    #265 2 years ago

    Wow amazing work some people here are doing! I WANT ONE!!!

    Looking at Craiglist/Offerup there's a few out there... any reason to get the 3 instead of the earlier versions?

    #266 2 years ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    the 3 instead of the earlier versions?

    I think the only difference is keypad?
    This is mine, think it's a 3

    20180416_224455 (resized).jpg

    #267 2 years ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    I think the only difference is keypad?
    This is mine, think it's a 3

    That is a version 2. Version 1 has the keypad. Version 2 has the small LCD. And version 3 has no screen or keypad (Bluetooth). I'm not sure of the differences operationally, but I do know those are the cosmetic differences. There are still a lot of crafters/scrapbookers that use these things, so CL deals can be hard to find. If you find one, snap it up fast!

    #268 2 years ago

    Does anybody have a cut file already made for this that they would be willing to share?

    20180418_122849 (resized).jpg

    #269 2 years ago

    I do. Can send it tonight if you don't get it before then. Mike

    #270 2 years ago
    Quoted from psd4me:

    I do. Can send it tonight if you don't get it before then. Mike

    Thank you - that would be awesome. PM sent.

    #271 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinheadpierre:

    Does anybody have a cut file already made for this that they would be willing to share?

    steve young sells new "bullseye" target faces for $4ea
    WLL-17-1016 bullseye target face (resized).png

    1 month later
    #272 2 years ago

    Anyone ever have issues with Oramask lifting other artwork when removed? I tried making it less tacky by sticking it on my clothes first, but it still lifted some original paint. For now, I am going to drop another coat of 2-pac and let it cure a few days before doing another layer. I am wondering if the humidity here was causing me some issues as well.

    #273 2 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    Anyone ever have issues with Oramask lifting other artwork when removed

    Did you pull it at 90 or 180degrees?
    If you pull it straight up it can cause issues, it's best to get it started then essentially lay it on itself to remove. As close to 180 degrees as you can.
    This minimizes the amount of surface tension of the product being removed.

    #274 2 years ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    Did you pull it at 90 or 180degrees?
    If you pull it straight up it can cause issues, it's best to get it started then essentially lay it on itself to remove. As close to 180 degrees as you can.
    This minimizes the amount of surface tension of the product being removed.

    I agree and would add that heat setting your paint with the Oracal in place hugely increases the likelihood of pulling up underlying material. Also, peel REALLY slowly. Oh, and don't press the Oracal too hard when applying it. Just lightly smooth the edges down enough to ensure a crisp line.

    #275 2 years ago

    I wonder if I should use the freeze method to take it off, like we do for Mylar? Might give that a whirl next time. I tried peeling it both ways...but my playfield is pretty roached, and I think there isn't much adhesion left with the old paint. Another thought is maybe using a chunk of dryer lint to remove even more tack from the Oramask. I'll try these things and report back.

    Also, another question for those of you who use the Silhouette software to trace- Is there a way to "lock down" the JPG file onto the work area for tracing purposes? It is really easy to shift the image when you are trying to grab and re-position a line. Using the undo arrow works, but its extra clicks. I use Solidworks for 75% of my job, so extra clicks drive me crazy because my CAD brain is programmed to be efficient, haha.

    #276 2 years ago

    In terms of removal and peeling paint. First off- this is a challenge and it’s the reason many run multiple coats of clear during a restoration- it locks down good work. I Try to avoid stencil over new paint but have had to do this and the advice to peel slowly and with a straight back motion is good. But the safe way is to lock down paint with clear coat prior to stencil over the top.

    I would be tempted to gently heat the stencil as I peel- not freeze. But I would need to test this somewhere I did not care about. I know of at least one person who uses heat to remove Mylar and it works extremely well. I will be doing this going forward. So it may work equally well for the stencil material.

    Good luck.

    #277 2 years ago

    I have found heat actually makes the stencil glue material reactivate and stick even more if I use the "stick it to my shirt a few times" method first...whatever glue they use, it is very good. Almost too good!

    #278 2 years ago

    Hmmm... interesting. I had not attempted heat and was going to try it... my enthusiasm is slightly dampened given your experience. However I will try the heat method for old Mylar. There is a restoration thread on here that used that technique and it’s amazing what they got up and how little damage was done. I have used the freeze spray on three or four playfields and never loved it- so my suggestion was sincere. I wonder if it’s different for different adhesives or if temp was not high enough? My suggestion was born of the supposition that the adhesive would have a melting point and that if I hit that temp it would flow easily and lift. It’s of course also possible that heat will set it and the melting point is at or higher than the plastic film of the stencil

    I will try this cause I am curious... I was also slightly worried about what the heat would do to the underlying paint adhesion properties but since it’s set by heat I was figuring I could heat the stencil pretty good and be safe. Anyhow- this was an unexplored suggestion and clearly, as stated above, there are potential risks and downsides! Be careful and always test any new technique or suggestion on a hidden area

    I have also tried the “stick to my t-shirt a few times to lower the tack” technique. I don’t use that method anymore after finding it can lead to crap in the paint but I have actually considered using a talc powder or something similar to dust lightly.

    I wish there was a lower tack adhesive for these materials but it gets crazy expensive to try to buy 4-5 different rolls so I kinda feel like I suffer with what I know works well to produce the cuts I need and then I avoid whenever possible the use of a stencil over paint and so use my spray gun to shoot clear... seems like the pros somehow manage to do this yet I have tried many a method and never found one that’s flawless. I think I got pretty good at it for a few months when I was doing it a ton but still remember ripping up some paint now and again. I also would love a perfect solution.

    #279 2 years ago

    Update... After adding another layer of 2pac and then storing the PF indoors for a week, we have success. Using heat to cure the paint with the oramask in place had no ill effects. I guess next time, I will spray a heavier initial layer of 2pac on the playfield. This thing was pretty roached all around the mylar edges when I got it.

    20180526_135642 (resized).jpg

    #280 2 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    After adding another layer of 2pac and then storing the PF indoors for a week, we have success. Using heat to cure the paint with the oramask in place had no ill effects.

    Nah, you found a NOS PF..., it looks too good to be a touch up!

    #281 2 years ago

    I'm using an older version of the cameo software. Is there a way to drag in a DXF/DWG and have it stay 1 in newer versions?

    It keeps shrinking the drawing to be smaller.

    #282 2 years ago
    Quoted from lordloss:

    I'm using an older version of the cameo software. Is there a way to drag in a DXF/DWG and have it stay 1 in newer versions?
    It keeps shrinking the drawing to be smaller.

    Click the settings at the very bottom right of Silhouette Studio. It may be in a different place in your version.

    Click Import Options

    You should see "When Importing DXF" make sure 'As is' is selected.

    This will keep your DXF size 1 on import.

    #283 2 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    Update... After adding another layer of 2pac and then storing the PF indoors for a week, we have success. Using heat to cure the paint with the oramask in place had no ill effects. I guess next time, I will spray a heavier initial layer of 2pac on the playfield. This thing was pretty roached all around the mylar edges when I got it.

    Great work!

    #284 2 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    "When Importing DXF" make sure 'As is' is selected.

    This will keep your DXF size 1 on import.

    Cool, I learned something new today!

    1 week later
    #285 2 years ago

    Got mine cutting real good! Ramping up to cut a stencil on the Oramask.

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    1 week later
    #286 2 years ago

    Putting the gold back in Gold Wings tonight... Love this thing.

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    #287 2 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    Putting the gold back in Gold Wings tonight... Love this thing.

    is this a before and after? you printed the black outline as a stencil and painted?

    #288 2 years ago
    Quoted from mark532011:

    is this a before and after? you printed the black outline as a stencil and painted?

    I did black first because the tiny cutouts in the letters were easier to deal with by painting the gold layer second. My gold paint covered very well, so it wasn't an issue. I used color matched DuPont Nason single stage automotive paint for the gold. I will then seal that all with 2Pac. I will do the white after the next sealing coat of 2pac.

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    #289 2 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    I did black first because the tiny cutouts in the letters were easier to deal with by painting the gold layer second. My gold paint covered very well, so it wasn't an issue. I used color matched DuPont Nason single stage automotive paint for the gold. I will then seal that all with 2Pac. I will do the white after the next sealing coat of 2pac.

    Very nice! What are you cutting your stencils on? Safe to airbrush indoors?

    #290 2 years ago

    I would be SO tempted to redo all the gold with real gold leaf....

    #291 2 years ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Very nice! What are you cutting your stencils on? Safe to airbrush indoors?

    I am using Oramask 813...I do all my work in the garage with the door open, or outside all together.

    Just got it all back together today.

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    1 week later
    #292 2 years ago

    Preparing to triple thick some backglasses. Made some stencils to protect some artwork near a clear window...
    Scanned on the HP 4600
    Merged the images in Photoshop
    Traced a rough outline with my Wacom tablet in Illustrator
    Exported to DXF, imported into Silhouette Studio
    Cut a tester on printer paper
    Perfect! Almost too easy...

    IMG_20180706_002800_051 (resized).jpgIMG_20180706_003321_246 (resized).jpgIMG_20180706_003339_081 (resized).jpg

    #293 2 years ago

    Brilliant thread - subscribed
    just got myself the cricut explore air 2 last week to restore a classic stern apron, and just stumbled on this thread

    2 weeks later
    #294 2 years ago

    Cameo experts I need some help. I recently changed computers and had to load all new versions of PS, AI and Cameo, now when I export my file in AI as a DXF and try to import it to Cameo there is NOTHING there. (edit I accidentally opened the PNG version not the DXF)
    I've tried all the various save file options I could think of, used jodyg tip of

    Quoted from JodyG:

    You should see "When Importing DXF" make sure 'As is' is selected.

    tip, and still nothing.
    Can someone examine your settings and maybe help me figure out what I'm doing wrong?
    My AI version is 22.1 and Silhouette ver 4.1.206ss

    #295 2 years ago

    Well after experimenting all effing day, I realized one has to TRACE the image in AI before exporting as a DXF.

    That is what I get for not using this stuff every day.

    1 week later
    #296 2 years ago

    Any of you guys with a stencil for the whirlwind center decal...the white insert

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    #297 2 years ago

    Silhouette for the win in making a stencil for the unobtanium "EK" pop bumper for Evel Knievel!

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    #298 2 years ago

    This is quickly becoming my favorite tool!

    Working on my Firepower project, my bullseye targets needed some attention.
    Scanned one with the HP, built a stencil in Illustrator, cut it in Silhouette on some Oramask.
    I chose "stencil material" in Silhouette Studio but put the cutting depth to 2, could still probably get away with 1.
    Transferred to transfer paper.
    Applying it was a bit tricky, but the Oramask was pretty forgiving in correcting it.
    Airbrushed over the white.
    Removed the stencil, cleaned up the minor overspray.
    Also cut some protectors out of mylar!
    Force 45, depth 3, speed 4, passes 1.
    Still cut through the mylar and the paper, could probably have gotten away with depth of 1.

    MVIMG_20180804_142801 (resized).jpgIMG_20180804_143319 (resized).jpgIMG_20180804_153816_849 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180804_154918 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180804_155334 (resized).jpg

    #299 2 years ago

    Forgot the most important step: opening your pack of target decals to find there's already one in there

    IMG_20180805_100829 (resized).jpg
    #300 2 years ago

    I don't own the Cameo but i got a Cricut Explorer Air 2 so I am jumping on this thread to partake anyway. Will be at the point fairly soon to do my text on my repainted play field. I think I might try to do the following after seeing others use water transfer paper. I printed a solid black square and just cut the outline of the letters. It sure cut nice and clean. Going to be nice having all the letters all cut out and not outlined by a clear possible visible square around the text.

    IMG_0150 (resized).JPG
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