Hmmm... interesting. I had not attempted heat and was going to try it... my enthusiasm is slightly dampened given your experience. However I will try the heat method for old Mylar. There is a restoration thread on here that used that technique and it’s amazing what they got up and how little damage was done. I have used the freeze spray on three or four playfields and never loved it- so my suggestion was sincere. I wonder if it’s different for different adhesives or if temp was not high enough? My suggestion was born of the supposition that the adhesive would have a melting point and that if I hit that temp it would flow easily and lift. It’s of course also possible that heat will set it and the melting point is at or higher than the plastic film of the stencil
I will try this cause I am curious... I was also slightly worried about what the heat would do to the underlying paint adhesion properties but since it’s set by heat I was figuring I could heat the stencil pretty good and be safe. Anyhow- this was an unexplored suggestion and clearly, as stated above, there are potential risks and downsides! Be careful and always test any new technique or suggestion on a hidden area
I have also tried the “stick to my t-shirt a few times to lower the tack” technique. I don’t use that method anymore after finding it can lead to crap in the paint but I have actually considered using a talc powder or something similar to dust lightly.
I wish there was a lower tack adhesive for these materials but it gets crazy expensive to try to buy 4-5 different rolls so I kinda feel like I suffer with what I know works well to produce the cuts I need and then I avoid whenever possible the use of a stencil over paint and so use my spray gun to shoot clear... seems like the pros somehow manage to do this yet I have tried many a method and never found one that’s flawless. I think I got pretty good at it for a few months when I was doing it a ton but still remember ripping up some paint now and again. I also would love a perfect solution.