Silhouette Cameo Pinball Restorers Club!

This happens when the scanner is not directly on the object. For example, when you scan a Backglass, the art is actually the thickness of the glass away from the scanner. I have never had an issue when the scanner was pressed onto the surface. It seems like there were some settings that helped with this as well. I will try and look at mine and see.

I have not seen any odd colour striping with mine. The comment about back glasses is correct, the scanner focuses only on objects up tight to it, nothing you can do to change that.

Thanks, It's not a big deal for my application, but still......

It is a pretty neat scanner. I wish the drivers were updated, but that's HP for ya.

This is perfect. You really got a perfect project.

What model is the scanner? I seem to recall that there is one that works best and cannot remember. I need to find one of those on e-bay I guess.

Shawn

HP ScanJet 4600 or 4670.
Make sure it is the scanner and not just the transparent materials adapter (TMA).

This also works although the scan bed is much smaller. It is easier to wrangle though because it runs on batteries (plus it is readily available):
http://www.getdoxie.com/product/flip/

HP 4670, makes life easy. I just got one, and scanned a glass. The colors are way off though. I know there are adjustments, any suggestions?

Also make sure it comes with the power/usb cord. It is a special cord that is not readily replaced.

Mine had no power supply but did have the weird cord and the power draw is more than the typical wall wart can provide. I wound up using an RC truck LiPo 3S battery which can provide a ton of current.

For DropTarget, are your colours off if you scan a normal photo? I don't see why the glass would alter the colours. I always do a scan of the carpet the thing is sitting on as a test and the colours look really good.

Good idea, I'll try to scan a picture first. I did try it on my carpet before doing scanning a glass, the carpet came out just fine.

I'll be using Pantone chips to recreate my art anyway, so it's not a big deal, just curious about the software adjustments.

BTW, be aware that the scanner may not work on your computer, the drivers are pretty old. I'm running a mac with 10.12.5 Twain is no longer supported, I managed to get it to work using my Parallel's Desktop running XP.

Same thing happen to me but not all the time.

I cut my stencils on a cameo using poster board, then layed the finished stencil on the cabinet and weighed it down, leaving the edges free to lift a bit. Worked fine for overspray effect.

Hi,

I read somewhere the optimized setup for the HP scanner...

Descreen: ON
Highlight setting: 70
Shadow setting: 5

As you're scanning BG, the result is blur (glass thickness being 3 to 4 mm), but you may touch up through Adobe Photoshop.
Make your scan 300 DPI (BMP or TIFF)
According the result you want, don't forgot to mirror the images (if applicable).

Good info, thx

Another good reason to use a silhouette cutter.....

I just repainted my CC Beatniks cabinet and used a Cameo 3 to cut the stencils.

The art on my cabinet was totally painted over by a previous owner's kids, yes, including spray paint graffiti, so I could not tell if there should be spatter on the base coat. Being a relatively uncommon and unloved machine, I couldn't find any pictures where I could see the definitive answer. So, I did not spray any spatter, only to find someone here on Pinside a few days after the job was complete. He was able to (see where this is going?) confirm that there should indeed be spatter on the base coat.....enter the Silhouette. Since I still had the original path files, I was able to recut new stencils and used the previously weeded sections to mask over the painted colored areas on the cabinet, then proceeded to add the spatter. It worked out great, would have to have left the base white, or done some serious masking with tape without having the Cameo.

-W

Is anyone using the Cameo V2? I can get one at a reasonable price and just wanted to know if it would be adequate for pinball projects. I can't find a head to head comparison of the 2 versions.

I've got one. It works great.

Joined the club. Bought a Cameo3 from costco a few weeks ago. For my first job I cut some 3 mil mylar (the bulk mylar from Marco)

I cut some rings for pop bumpers and some half-moon pieces for in front of slings. Unfortunately, no setting for mylar in software so I used:

Speed 6
Force 25
2 Passes

Seemed to cut fine. Anybody have a better setting for cutting 3 mil mylar?

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I haven't yet cut Mylar, but I have cut vinyl that is thicker than 3ml. I doubt that with proper depth and pressure settings you need to make 2 passes. Multiple passes increases the chances of cutting errors.

Anybody know which settings to use when using the Cricut brand stencil material? I used the default settings on the Silhouette for "Stencil material" and it chewed it up really bad!

Hello all,
Right now im doing a full restoration on a Indiana Jones and i have one insert that needs a repaint on the yellow color...

I was playing with the software and i have the studio cameo file ready, but i dont have the machine yet, can you guys give me a hand to check if this plotter can handle a so precise cut...

A print screen of what i have
Thanks

studioTest (resized).png

The machine should be able to handle the cut but it's going to be a real challenge to weed the little bits and accurately transfer it. You would be better off painting the whole area yellow and using a waterslide decal sandwiched between layers of 2pac for the black. If you really want to paint it I still recommend a total repaint of both yellow then black otherwise you're going to have a fight with perfect registration.

rgaires I agree with the above. It will cut the lettering okay, but maybe not the bridge. And if you do try it, fill in the things you are cutting so they are solid, else the cutter will cut both sides of the lines.

Shawn

Im going to share a photo of the inserts... maybe you can tell me what is the best option
1 - Mask the yellow, paint yellow, make waterslide decal of the black, and put it over..
2 - Mask the yellow and the black, paint both..
3 - Leave it alone, they are just fine..

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Not the best quality photos, sorry, i can try to take better ones if needed

I have to lock up one of my cat's each time I just turn on my Cameo, she is under the impression it is her toy!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cats-and-pinballs-/page/25#post-4095852

Anyone have a williams cursive logo in dxf format? PM me if so. Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-a-high-quality-image-file-of-the-williams-logo

Gracias! Not sure I can do anything with the .ai format, but I'll try. I mainly work in Autocad, export to dxf, and load into the cheapo Silhouette Studio.

If you need help pm me, I have ai and ps so can convert between various file types.

CorelDraw (Home and Student version) is cheap and can import .ai files.

Silhouette Studio (when upgraded to business edition) should also be able to import .ai .dsv and .cdr files.

Actually, i found the williams cursive logo is just a fattened Commercial Script font.

Here's what i did tonight... this PB apron has been bugging me so I cleaned it up with a gloss black Testers paint marker and a vinyl sticker made with the Cameo. Its not perfect, but better than it was. Atleast it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb anymore. The rest of the apron is in great shape so i didn't want to redo the whole thing.

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I made a new Pinbot ADV. "X" decal using reversed white, red, and clear vinyl!

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Looks good. Nice job

Wife made these for me and I sprayed a small amount of polyurethane on them afterwards to seal it on.

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nice, is that paint or vinyl?

Vinyl and then sealed with polyurethane

Thanks! I really like doing this stuff. My first job as a teenager was working for a vinyl sign company, weeding lettering, and my second job was working for a screen printer. This work reminds me of those processes.

nice job

I got tired of not being able to import drawings from Illustrator and upgraded the Silhouette software. Turns out that by upgrading, you get more tools unlocked as well which so far means that I can do most of my work directly in Silhouette Studio. I found a site that sells the upgrade for $20 less than it costs direct from the manufacturer. For $30 out the door, I felt it was well worth it.

https://www.swingdesign.com/collections/silhouette-software/products/silhouette-studio-designer-edition-digital-license-code-for-cameo-portrait-sd-instant-download

Yeah- The ability to import SVG is huge, upgrade is worth it... Anything to speed the process! I actually think this is an area the Cricut software is both better and worse. You [I think] can use SVG with their basic software but it’s far less capable as a drawing tool...since I don’t do anything in Silhouette Studio I paid to upgrade to import SVG so I was somewhat less impressed cost wise... but it’s still worth it.

And I have to say, I have ended up using it outside of pinball, a lot. Kids want a lemonade stand? We make a kick ass sign!

Inkscape is a good FREE vector program in which you can export SVG.

^yes it is.

does anyone have settings for cutting poster board?

What material are you guys using for making playfield stencils?

Oracal 813 and or Gerbermask

More info on both can be had by reading the thread..... always a good start!

I had read the thread but so many materials are discussed. I just wanted to clarify what people are successfully using. Maybe I should have added that in my question.

I used Oracle as the gerbermask was to pricey for me.

It worked great, except for small detail work. I also found it easy to use as frisket, lay it down and cut with an exacto.

While I didn't try the gerbermask, I suspect, as indicated in the referenced thread, that is it better for small details like lettering.

Oracal 813 is great stuff. I pretty much don't use frisket anymore. I use 813 for everything including detail work. The only exception being if I need to hand cut a mask on an area where lifting of fresh material is a concern. Then I use frisket because it has a lower tack adhesive. Gerber cuts nicely too but you can't see through it for positioning. That became a deal killer for me.