(Topic ID: 105393)

Silhouette Cameo Pinball Restorers Club!

By Curbfeeler

7 years ago


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  • 552 posts
  • 99 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Chrimeg
  • Topic is favorited by 225 Pinsiders

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    There are 552 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 12.
    #501 3 months ago

    Hey guys! Getting ready to pull the trigger on ordering a Cameo Silhouette 4, what should I be ordering for supplies? Looking to do some playfield insert work and cabinet stencils.

    Gary

    #502 3 months ago

    Paint mask and clear transfer tape. I use an xacto knife to weed.

    GerberMask ultra is popular but expensive. OraMask 813 is easily acquired.

    You’ll need an HP4670 scanner and airbrush if you don’t already.

    #503 3 months ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    Paint mask and clear transfer tape. I use an xacto knife to weed.
    GerberMask ultra is popular but expensive. OraMask 813 is easily acquired.
    You’ll need an HP4670 scanner and airbrush if you don’t already.

    Already have the scanner!

    #504 3 months ago

    Since I knew I was going to do cabinet stencils I went with a uscutter sc2 28" wide so I can do the sides in one piece. Have also done detailed work with it just fine, including a Stern electronics apron stencil. Another option although it does take up considerably more room.

    #505 3 months ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    I use an xacto knife to weed.

    I use these for weeds.

    Screenshot_20210822-153929_Chrome (resized).jpg
    #506 3 months ago
    Quoted from Mageek:

    I don’t know of any place local that sells “pinball” mylar.

    I also sell mylar:
    http://pinball.click/mylarProds
    I sell many colors and even offer custom colors if the customer buys and ships the Vinyl to me.

    #507 3 months ago
    Quoted from BorgDog:

    Since I knew I was going to do cabinet stencils I went with a uscutter sc2 28" wide so I can do the sides in one piece. Have also done detailed work with it just fine, including a Stern electronics apron stencil. Another option although it does take up considerably more room.

    I like that, tempting.

    I guess it would depend on what work I'd be doing most, playfield or cabinet.

    #508 3 months ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    I like that, tempting.
    I guess it would depend on what work I'd be doing most, playfield or cabinet.

    You can do cabs with a cameo but it’s a lot more challenging. You’ll likely waste a lot of expensive material in the process. I consider the Cameo and the like great for stuff 12” wide and smaller. Anything bigger and you’re going to want a larger machine to do it well.

    #509 3 months ago

    Cameo Pro is 24".

    #510 3 months ago

    Didn’t know this was a thing. Pricey though! If this any different than a uscutter vinyl cutter at this price?

    #511 3 months ago
    Quoted from radium:

    Didn’t know this was a thing. Pricey though! If this any different than a uscutter vinyl cutter at this price?

    I haven't used the USCutter models. The Cameo 4 series is my daily driver so to speak. Got the Business version of the software for SVG import and it (the software) hasn't been a hassle like some brands. The Cameo itself is noisier than it should be, so the build quality may be on the cheap side, but it's been super reliable for hours a day.

    #512 3 months ago

    This is probably the smallest detail I've done on the uscutter sc-2 28" wide cutter (don't look at the crooked one). The text there is about 6mm tall, and in a 'halftone' version of future forces italic font so has bands cut out of it. I wasnt' sure it would work, but pleased with the result. Inline drop upgrade for TNA if you were not familiar.

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    #513 3 months ago

    Nice detail on it... looks good... did you print in black vinyl or did you print a mask and then paint with black?

    #514 3 months ago

    that's vinyl supposedly 'permanent'

    1 week later
    #515 87 days ago

    I'm on the fence here in regards to the Cameo 4. I think the bulk of my work is going to be making smaller pieces for playfield repair, would I not be better off with a smaller cutting unit?

    1 month later
    #516 54 days ago

    You can also make a custom T shirt to wear while playing your new Pinball

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    #517 54 days ago
    Quoted from Mageek:

    You can also make a custom T shirt to wear while playing your new Pinball
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    I like it!

    I should really try to make some cool stuff too. I have all the material already like heat transfer rolls and even the glass etching kit. Never bothered.

    Was it hard to align both colors?

    #518 54 days ago
    Quoted from MrMikeman:

    I like it!
    I should really try to make some cool stuff too. I have all the material already like heat transfer rolls and even the glass etching kit. Never bothered.
    Was it hard to align both colors?

    I didn’t find it hard to align. The transfer sheet is tacky so it stays put while aligning it, at least on the stuff I have from J and J (Amazon)

    #519 54 days ago

    I was worried about alignment, but found it surprisingly easy. I will say that if you do things that actually overlap (ie. you have two colors and want there to be NO gap between them) then you need to make one layer a “bottom” layer and one a “top” layer and expand your bottom layer’s outline so that the top layer is overlapping it a tad bit. That’s pretty easy in the Cameo’s software using the offset tool.

    The other thing that you really need for doing shirts is an actual hot press. I’ve heard it can be done with a normal iron, but I’ve also heard it’s a bit of a nightmare. I started with a press and can say it’s pretty easy that way.

    —Donnie

    #520 54 days ago

    I did a complete KISS head and body with a 12" Cameo. Some parts were done by hand but the cameo did all the heavy lifting.

    #521 53 days ago
    Quoted from rushfan:

    I did a complete KISS head and body with a 12" Cameo. Some parts were done by hand but the cameo did all the heavy lifting.

    Thanks to your excellent video... my Silhouette 4 Pro is on order finally.

    3 weeks later
    #522 28 days ago

    So adventures in vinyl cutting.. impressions of the Cameo 4 after a few jobs. Did a Bally apron to look like a Stern unit and made graphics for the side of my universal Bally-Stern pinball platform. Still have to do the lower cab this week.

    The included software is terrible. Is there other software that works with the cutter?

    No support for vector graphics files out of the box? You have to pay extra? No ruler on the damn workspace grid? The trace function works like a drunk? WTH.

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    #523 27 days ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    After that the images are brought into Inkscape. The "Trace bitmap..." option is used to convert the scan to a vectorized image. Straight lines are redrawn and the paths are separated into two layers coloured for convenience.

    Old post I know but doing research; what settings did you use in Inkscape?

    I used it for the first time this morning, took a jpg image and traced it as grayscale, 12 scans. Its better but not as sharp as i'd like.

    Original, 12 scans, 20 scans shown. I'm still tinkering with settings..

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    #524 27 days ago

    I usually just use the default settings in Inkscape. I mostly auto-trace fonts where the bitmap is much larger than the final font so it seems to work well.

    You can try to simplify the path in Inkscape (somewhere there is a "Simplify Path" setting) as it will probably too faithfully trace every little nuance of the original graphic.

    #525 27 days ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    I usually just use the default settings in Inkscape. I mostly auto-trace fonts where the bitmap is much larger than the final font so it seems to work well.
    You can try to simplify the path in Inkscape (somewhere there is a "Simplify Path" setting) as it will probably too faithfully trace every little nuance of the original graphic.

    Not looking to do fonts but artwork, I'll check for the simplify path when I get home.

    Did do some digging around and according to one source on the internet Inkscape can directly save SVG files as ROBO-Master type of spline output and Studio regular version will use it without a problem.

    If so, a good work around the bundled version not supporting SVG out of the box.

    #526 27 days ago

    I export DXF from Illustrator and import into Silhouette.

    #527 27 days ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    I export DXF from Illustrator and import into Silhouette.

    What version of Studio are you using? The bundled version is deliberately hobbled.

    #528 27 days ago

    I don’t know how much you’re trying to do, but I gave up on trying to filter things into vector format and just re-draw it all. That’s actually the most popular way, even though it seems horrible at first. Most folks just take their graphic into something like AutoCAD as a layer and then you just zoom in and start drawing 3 point arcs. Once you get the hang of it, it goes WAY faster than you’d think.

    That said, I started doing it when Inkscape was somewhat less user friendly than it is now, too. I still use Inkscape a decent amount, but mostly I simply use it to filter AutoCAD drawings to SVG and add things like text and whatnot using fonts since Inkscape is way better at that than AutoCAD. My use is usually to cut with my Glowforge, but I paid to upgrade my Studio edition to import SVG (I worked around that for a while, but it just got annoying and worth it to upgrade) and the workflow is basically the same.

    Anyway, in this there’s no right answer, just whatever answer works best for you.

    —Donnie

    #529 27 days ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    I export DXF from Illustrator and import into Silhouette.

    +1, I also have to do lots of corrections in Illustrator before I get results close enough for my acceptance.

    #530 27 days ago

    I also paid to use SVG in Silhouette Studio, and I redraw most things rather than tracing.

    Fonts I don't bother because they are so small typically that any slight quirks are not detectable.

    I usually grab "sample text" from www.linotype.com and auto-trace it from the largest sample. Although I place letters individually and sometimes they need to be stretched/tweaked to look like the original. It is a good starting point though.

    #531 27 days ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    Although I place letters individually and sometimes they need to be stretched/tweaked to look like the original. It is a good starting point though.

    +1 to the above, Here is how I do text:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-i-recreate-insert-artwork

    #532 26 days ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    I export DXF from Illustrator and import into Silhouette.

    Interesting enough, I tried exporting a SVG into DXF format from Inkscape and it did not work out. Something I did I'm sure and I'll have to keep poking at it.

    Speaking of poking at things; I deliberately worked with Studio last night trying various settings and when tracing, the threshold setting seems to be most important when tracing pictures. Using a piece of art I worked with prior, about 80% setting looked real good. I think when I was working before, it was around 45%

    High pass off and despeckle fairly low if not on zero.

    I did notice that going much over 80% on threshold caused the image border to grow in dimension altering the work subtly, so duly noted.

    #533 26 days ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    What version of Studio are you using? The bundled version is deliberately hobbled.

    I use the bundled version.

    I'm away from my machine right now, so can't reference the specifics, but I draw in Inkscape, export as .dxf 14 in millimeters and import into SS with no scaling issues. I may be neglecting a setting or two but it can be done.

    Occasionally, it will do weird stuff where the art is not all one piece, but that doesn't matter except when I'm doing t-shirts or whatnot and need to mirror the image for example. Still easy to fix in SS.

    #534 25 days ago

    I also use whatever version was on the website for the Cameo3 when I downloaded it. Zero issues. For some projects I've traced within Studio and it's pretty solid and much easier than Illustrator. Each tool has its pros and cons.

    #535 24 days ago

    Hello fellow players and restorers - Would one of you be willing to help me out by converting a Silhouette Studio file to .svg for a Cricut cutter? I have a World Cup Soccer that I will soon start a refurb on and would like to use a stencil to paint the speaker grills as a soccer ball. Another Pinsider as created a Silhouette file but I only have access to a Cricut that uses the .svg file format. Do any of you have the Business edition of Silhouette Studio and are you willing to help me out if I send you the file?

    #536 24 days ago
    Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

    Hello fellow players and restorers - Would one of you be willing to help me out by converting a Silhouette Studio file to .svg for a Cricut cutter? I have a World Cup Soccer that I will soon start a refurb on and would like to use a stencil to paint the speaker grills as a soccer ball. Another Pinsider as created a Silhouette file but I only have access to a Cricut that uses the .svg file format. Do any of you have the Business edition of Silhouette Studio and are you willing to help me out if I send you the file?

    I checked and I only have the Designer Edition and it only saves to Silhouette v2 and v3 and GSP.

    #537 24 days ago
    Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

    Hello fellow players and restorers - Would one of you be willing to help me out by converting a Silhouette Studio file to .svg for a Cricut cutter? I have a World Cup Soccer that I will soon start a refurb on and would like to use a stencil to paint the speaker grills as a soccer ball. Another Pinsider as created a Silhouette file but I only have access to a Cricut that uses the .svg file format. Do any of you have the Business edition of Silhouette Studio and are you willing to help me out if I send you the file?

    Send it to me and I will see what I can do.
    Mike

    #538 23 days ago
    Quoted from packie1:

    Send it to me and I will see what I can do.
    Mike

    Thank you, Mike! I'm asking for the file...

    #539 23 days ago

    Like anything, it takes practice. The left side took 6 hours, right side 1.5 hours.

    I'm learning the tricks!

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    #540 21 days ago

    Getting the hang of it...

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    1 week later
    #541 12 days ago

    Hi Everyone, been using Cricut for stencil airbrushing...best tool I ever owned for this type of stuff.

    Anyhow, as per some on here mention about paint bleeding under the masking material (not getting clean lines). I too have come across this and seems to be hit and miss. I know "crafters" use a product called mod podge to stop the paint bleeds.

    The cut and lay their paint mask down. Then go around the edges with mod podge and this fills in any dips/valleys where the paint would seep into. Once it dries its like a solid sealer and you can paint right over it.

    Just wondering if anyone has tried this method on a pinball and if 2 part clear has a reaction.

    #542 12 days ago

    Just wanted to update: Doing better with the Studio software, finally figured out when you do a trace you can into point functions and smoothing which is pretty much converting your imported raster image into a Vector graphics file.

    #543 12 days ago
    Quoted from Chrimeg:

    Anyhow, as per some on here mention about paint bleeding under the masking material (not getting clean lines). I too have come across this and seems to be hit and miss.

    1) obviously make sure to carefully flatten your stencils.
    2) make sure your Createx is not too thin
    3) make several to many light coats to build up to your color. I've had to do as many as 6 - 8 layers.

    I've can't recall any bleed problems when I remember to perform the above techniques (however my last restore was few years ago).
    The nice thing with Createx, if you do find errors, they are easily wiped away and corrected since one lays down a "locking coat" of 2pac.

    #544 12 days ago
    Quoted from packie1:

    Send it to me and I will see what I can do.
    Mike

    Thank you so much, Mike! My son was able to use your converted file and cut me a couple sets.

    65817669748__AB15CC22-EB74-4861-B643-1267147696C5 (resized).jpg

    #545 12 days ago

    Another trick I read about paint seeping is to spray a light coat of the base layer first, e.g, if you're painting on white spray a light coat of white to seal the edges, then paint your colour. I did that when I repainted an apron (and it was not perfectly smooth) and it seemed to help.

    Bleed definitely can happen if the paint is watery or you put down too much. Too much paint gets blown up against the edge of the stencil (causing ridges) or under the edge. LIGHT COATS is the way, just dust in on many times.

    #546 12 days ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    1) obviously make sure to carefully flatten your stencils.
    2) make sure your Createx is not too thin
    3) make several to many light coats to build up to your color. I've had to do as many as 6 - 8 layers.
    I've can't recall any bleed problems when I remember to perform the above techniques (however my last restore was few years ago).
    The nice thing with Createx, if you do find errors, they are easily wiped away and corrected since one lays down a "locking coat" of 2pac.

    Createx is not available in stores where I'm located. Ordering online and the shipping is 3x to 5x more expensive than the actual product itself So I've been working with Golden airbrush paints. Those paints spray extremely well and have great color pigments. They do tend to dry darker though than when wet.

    Your right in the thin coats but sometimes we tend to get over zealous in coverage

    #547 12 days ago
    Quoted from Chrimeg:

    Your right in the thin coats but sometimes we tend to get over zealous in coverage

    Patience when airbrushing is the hardest thing for me.
    I just have to keep telling myself, many thin layers... I want results NOW, but good results the first time make the end result arrive faster.

    From one of my favorite movies, as it seems applicable here, "slow is smooth, smooth is fast, speed is achieved through accuracy"

    Good luck with your project.

    #548 11 days ago

    Few images of my trial runs using air brush with cricut to cut stencil/paint masks. I've been using dollar store removable book protector vinyl, glad peel and stick for transfer paper, dollar store blue paint mask and golden high flow paints. So far not leaving any residue behind.

    Didn't clear coat but replaced inserts with new and filled gaps with bondo etc. Not looking for perfection just seeing where I can go with this

    I made 1 scans of playfield, stitched them and edited all the graphics. So if it really goes sideways I can always have a overlay printed and clear on that.

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    1 week later
    #549 3 days ago

    Changed up my bow and arrow spinners
    with some help from my cameo.

    Love this little machine.

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    #550 2 days ago

    The masking removed and blue painted....so far so good I think for a first timer Only concern now is paint lifting when I mask over the blue for the other colors.

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    There are 552 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 12.

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