Finally got my Cameo 4 yesterday. Did some test prints with it and then got down to work with the stencils. Pleased with the progress so far. Working on a second test run now making adjustments... adding registration marks to help with alignment.

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To get that authentic edge bleed for old games, I’ve cut stencils with my cameo and then applied them to BIG pieces of cardboard and then cut the cardboard with a razor. Just enough paint bleeds around the cardboard stencil edges to give that old time look.

Are you planning to add the registrations in the Silhouette software, or some other place? I guess it depends on where you separate colors into the individual stencil cuttings...

I've just been playing thusfar, mostly with the scans I did for my apron. Only two colors (plus base), so after I cleaned up the scans in Gimp, I separated the two colors into layers there, imported each individually into Inkscape for scaling and export to SVG, then imported the SVG files to the Silhouette software for cutting. No attempt at registration marks yet.

I have added some registration marks with the latest attempts... makes thing easier. I added them in illustrator, simple crosses with a about 5 pixel stroke I think.

While I've had my cameo a while and shown in here some success, I still struggle with getting large projects like cab stencils to feed straight.
I've searched this topic for FEED, ALIGNMENT and STRAIGHT and can only seem to find discussion on how to lay the already created stencil straight etc.
I've had projects where I will walk away from my Cameo only to come back and find it has gone way off to one side and 30+ inches of material is wasted.

Here is where my question comes in, how does one make sure the material getting loaded into the Cameo stays square?
It is not indexed or registered or anything, it just feeds in with only a guide line for visual alignment, no mechanical means for perfectly square work?

i think you are describing two different issues. Getting it square in the machine and keeping it from slipping

I do wish there was a manual feed option but I created a test print with a tiny square 24 inches down. I make sure to cut the Mylar perfectly square and then when fed into the cameo it’s usually good but I check by sending my test print with a pressure of 1 so it won’t actually cut ( in case I have to do it again) and then watch the Mylar to see it’s not going sideways.

To keep it from slipping on long prints I am very careful to have no pressure on the rollers. I feed out plenty from the box and handhold it so there is never any lateral force

Sorry, my explanation was a little confusing. I've not experience any slippage. Guess for that I've been lucky for I too pull out up to 60 inches for my long cuts. The reason I have wasted material is that it does not feed perfectly square so even a 1/32 or 1/64 of misalignment can be drastic after 30+ inches of travel.
My machine does have a manual feed that I will use to 'scroll' up and then back to try and get it square but that tactic is not perfect. I just wanted to make sure I was not missing some magic tool that other used for a perfect square feed.

I like your method of a test square... have to ponder that one.

Just so happens I had to cut a masking layer for a translite I am making. Here is how I currently set up for lengthy cuts.
Again, my Cameo does have a manual feed under the 4 arrows option, then I feed in the material while watching the alignment line on the left.
I also move the far right roller pressure thing more to the middle. That way if it does get out of alignment some, it will still put pressure on the material. Place carboard under the cutter to prevent the material from getting caught on the carpet.
Just really with there was a more mechanical method for getting the material to run square through the cutter.
Am I missing anything?
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I keep the right roller in the standard position. I precut long pieces of material like you did and lay the whole thing on the floor (hardwood in my case - minimal friction). I load the material, adjust straightness by eye if needed by temporarily releasing tension on the right roller, retension and then use the manual feed arrows on the touchpad to feed the material almost all the way through. If it walks off to one side, adjust and repeat until successful. When it’s good, use the manual feed arrows to get back to the starting position and start your cut job.

I feel your pain... I just blew through a couple of feet of stencil material with it going out of alignment, last two prints I did I fed in more to start than you've feed in with your picture. In fact I've fed in enough for it to come out of the back the machine cause I figure I'd rather waste 6" than 24". Very frustrating. I am using the Cameo 4's "roller holder" if that is even a thing for my material.

End results are worth the pain...

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Neither... used pictures found online and traced with illustrator.

roar Is that a guitar amp?

Yessir it is... goes along with this project I shared in the Fathom thread...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFe_0fgncgW/?igshid=18plfjgzw1aye

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Nice, Time consuming to get the curves perfect.

Silhouette power! Total repaint in progress. Key lines will hide many sins.

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Caribou Eh!

I don't think so. I was hoping that the Cameo 4 with its built in roll holder would automatically keep material straight. It doesn't. All I can do right now is keep it down to 24" at a time. I'm looking for better solutions.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bare-wood-em-playfield-repaint

I've tried the registration mark feature of the Silhouette to cut out labels for old EMs and it works great! Especially nice where the labels have rounded corners.

If you've never tried it, you basically print from Silhouette Studio and select an option to add registration marks.

Then you cut, and the Silhouette automatically scans for and finds the registration marks so the cuts line up with your print. Cool!

I’m wondering if anyone else has had the issue I am having with cut&print from Silhouette Studio...

I recently prepped a full color decal for a playfield repair. Tweaked the colors a bunch, using Pantone values in Illustrator, until I got a decent match to the playfield inks.

Because this decal was a white waterslide which would cover some inserts, I wanted to print it from S.Studio, and then use the cutter to cut out both the outline of the decal as well as the “windows” where the inserts are.
I exported the file as a TIFF from Illustrator, making sure first to use a CMYK profile and embed as such.
Unfortunately, when I printed a test from S.Studio, all the violet came out purple, making the decal unusable to me. I ended up using scissors and an Xacto knife. Very frustrating.

Has anybody else had this problem/have you figured out how to keep colors consistent between AI and Silhouette Studio? I can’t believe this is some insurmountable issue, but my local graphic artist friend and AI guru was stumped.

Did you try printing this exact tiff file from photoshop and see if the colors were correct or wrong? That would help indicate if maybe your color profile conversion is messed up, or if it’s actually the software.

Also, if the artwork is vector in illustrator (which it should be), then I’d export it as a vector format( pdf, eps, svg), not a bitmap /raster like tiff.

I assume silhouette can accept vector files, having never used it myself.

You mean as a check against the AI print? In illustrator it was just right. But worth trying, just to be thorough.
I’ll try a different format next time and see if it makes a difference. I can’t feature why that would affect the *color* profile, but I’ll be the first to admit there’s PLENTY about the vagaries of software that I don’t understand...
I’d really like to get to the bottom of this; until I can, it stands to be a substantial stumbling block to the way I want to use the cutter.

I suppose if you were desperate you could draw the registration graphic at the right spot and print from Illustrator. Or maybe print it as a PDF from Silhouette Studio and re-import the registration marks back into Illustrator.

Bonus points if the inserts work.
If not; then... well; I have a laser cutter and electronics skillz.

yeah. Printing from illustrator is one thing, printing an exported graphic is another.

Just trying to rule out the possibility of your exported tiff being the issue, not the silhouette software. So if the same file prints fine from PS, then we know it’s the silhouette software. If it is messed up from PS, then it indicates that the tiff is the problem.

I’ll try to give you a shout tomorrow.

I need to get something like this to redo my Pinbot apron.

This might be unrelated sorry.

Wondering if anybody here has used a cricut to make custom made vinyl protection? Instead of using mylar.

I do , have made lots of protectors for around the pops on restorations / playfield swaps. I also use it for shooter lanes etc

What material do you use for that?

What a clever idea, I never would have thought of it. I assume you can get clear media somewhere

awesome to hear, I would be curious to learn more about your experience and also wondering if they hold up well. Do you find the vinyl is as resistant as mylar?

I am interested to know what level of accuracy you can achieve and how resistant the material is. How easy it is to install and remove, etc.

I am also in Ottawa btw! any chances you can make me a few so I can test in my games?

I don’t really have any long term data in terms of how well they hold up but certainly it provides adequate protection for my needs. It is not nearly as thick as the mylar they used to put on playfield so certainly won’t provide that kind of protection. I’ve only used it on a good clear coated surfaces. Always wax before applying to facilitate easy removal.

PM me with details of what you want and I’ll cut you some test bits.

Just buy mylar in sheets and cut it down. I buy rolls from PinRestore. Draw out whatever shape you need in AI or using the cutter’s software and it’s all set.

Didn’t know they sold rolls, Thanks I’ve ordered a couple

is that shipping from the states? would it not be cheaper to buy mylar locally?

I have been using Oracal clear vinyl for all of the protection I put on games. It comes off very easily when you see any wear. I use Oracal 751 - Transparent. https://denversignsupply.com/product/oracal-751-high-performance-cast/

That is what I use now, I’ll see how the Pinrestore mylar cuts , it’s clarity and what I prefer.

is this shipping from the US?

yes I’ve purchased tons of stuff from Pinrestore, they only charge actual shipping costs (started at $40 and they refunded me $17.80) I don’t know of any place local that sells “pinball” mylar.

Pinball medics in Ottawa sells it, it is probably the same stuff.

What do you guys do for large scale mylars? I find that it is super difficult to get things to line up when its 20 inches across, the mylar static cling sucks itself down to the playfield and then sticks like crazy.. then when you pull it off, it comes away from the transfer paper and starts wrinkling... the whole process is quite difficult.

I've been thinking of using double transfer film to stiffen the mylar to keep it from wrinkling and using wax paper to protect the sticky side so I can slide it around on the playfield and see through it to line it up before peeling the backing off. how do you guys do it?

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Not sure I understand what you’re attempting here?

I use GerberMask Ultra with clear transfer tape. Position the mask, tape it down on one side with painters tape. Remove some of the backing paper on the other side (cut a strip off with scissors) and adhere it. Now remove the temporary tape and slowly peel back the backing paper while laying down the mask. Finally remove the transfer tape.

But handing large pieces is tricky; if they are too big I cut them with an x-acto knife into more manageable sizes.

this sounds like a good plan but I do not understand the process, I am sure it makes sense but this is something that I would like to see demonstrated in video rather than words.

I show the steps in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bare-wood-em-playfield-repaint

This looks like a similar approach (probably what I should be doing):

thanks!