Glass bouncing on metal.

I wouldn't call it a good idea.

LTG

+1
But yes, they can be removed.

I'm guessing that glass was wrongsized, it should easily fit into the plastic channels.

Plus, removing your side rails usually means buying new ones... and hopefully you don't damage your cabinet art in the process. Get some new glass.

If its an issue of being too wide you could ask your local glass shop to cut it to size. If its too thick you will probably be talking to the same folks anyway when buying a replacement. Cool pin.

Well, this is where someone with more knowledge on the subject will hopefully step up. I have ordered several sheets from my local shop over the years and just figured they were cutting it in-house. It doesnt grow on trees so someone has to be cutting it. Bueller, Bueller.

It is cut to size.
We order glass at work for various applications and I had an order coming so I tacked a few sheets onto it for my games. I gave them some sizing for a widebody I few months back and it was cut to size... and yes, it's tempered.

A Putty Knife , some heat & Goo Gone to clean up the Glue Residue .. Fairly Easy ..

That's How i did my BSD . 1st Tyme I ever installed glass guides and rail's .

Robertmee gave them to me when I bought BSD from him , Why I waited 2 Yr's to Install

BSD_Side-rails.jpg BSD_Side-rails_.jpg BSD_Side-rails_.jpg BSD_Side-rails__.jpg BSD_Side-rails__.jpg

Hey B_R, is that a blow torch? That's pretty badass. You're my hero

If you've never done it before, I would suggest running a couple of lines of blue painters tape under the bottom edge of the rail so you don't scratch the graphics, and use a heat gun.

Once the glass is tempered it can not be cut. It will shatter if attempted to be cut by conventional means. Time to buy a new piece of glass

They cut the glass and then temper it. Once tempered, it can't be cut again.

Wow. You don't need all this. A blow torch?? Wow. It takes less than 5 minutes with a flat blade screw driver. You just shove it in, slowly pry, and work you way to the back. The glue residue is also not needed to be removed as it helps when reattaching the new ones. I have gold plated and powder coated all my machines. I've removed over 40 side rails using this method in the last 4-6 weeks.

Edit: I should point out there is one obvious bolt in front and sometimes a wood nail in back but usually not. The side rails will be all bent up and garbage once removed this way.

Tim Allen would be proud of the blow torch.

The method I posted in this thread allows removal without damaging the side rails... useful if your game has *1* bad rail that you want to save for later (the aftermarket side rails are similar, but not identical,so if you use new side rails, you have to replace *both* sides - save the 'good' original for your next game with 1 bent rail), or if you want to polish/replate/paint the originals and re-install them...

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gnr-side-rails

Hey B_R, is that a blow torch? That's pretty badass. You're my hero
If you've never done it before, I would suggest running a couple of lines of blue painters tape under the bottom edge of the rail so you don't scratch the graphics, and use a heat gun.

Heatguns and blue tape are for sissies, 6" putty knife and a propane torch, the knife works as a heat shield.
I remove decals the same way, I stripped this head in about 10 minutes.
Heat the knife and decals at the same time and wear fireplace gloves.
FLAME ON!

AFMTD_018.jpg AFMTD2_006.jpg

That Would be a Good Idea !!! This Was my 1st Rail Job , I Will do it the same way Next Tyme.

You also need to do the trick I mentioned with a drywall knife.. so, if some tape sticks, you don't rip the decal clear down the cabinet.

Anybody fancy doing a video of rail removal? My SS needs new rails but don't want to damage decals so would be good to watch some being removed

That is twice as long as it takes me .

Jim

No need for a video. Follow the procedure linked in my post above, it's cake.

Thanks. Might give it a try.

Is this the same procedure for Sterns? I always see how tos for B/W but not for Sterns.

Sterns dont use tape....held in place by those tiny screws

Thank you. I thought so because there doesn't seem to be any space between the rail and the cab like on my B/Ws.

How do you take out the small rivet on the side rail nearest the front of the machine?

Regards David

Usually with rivets you have to drill head and push through. No idea if its the same with pinball rivets though lol, only done auto glass.

http://www.overclock.net/t/337343/how-to-rivets-removing-and-replacing