I suggest scotch brite and then the fine steel wool afterwards. Remember to only use the scotch brite in the direction of the grain of the stainless steel and then the same for the steel wool. Always only on
stainless steel you always go in the direction of the grain of the stainless steel.
For the side rails, the grain is in the direction of the length of the rails. I have done many and it looks like brand new stainless steel.
Good Luck!

Never-dull works well to clean dirt but your rails look absolutely horrific and needs a lot more TLC. Pull them from the machine and start with a rough sand paper on electric sander. Sand with that and keep going finer and finer with the sand paper. Once you are using very fine paper like 400-800 grit switch to a buffing pad and use metal polish. It'll make them shine like new. Works well on lockdown bars and other metal components too. Much cheaper than buying replacements for sure!

Out of curiosity, how do you remove that type of siderail without causing damage?

Isn't that type of rail held on by "spiral nails"?

There isn't much you can do here unless you can polish through that rust to the base metal.

Instead of using stainless for the rails like everyone else Bally was using obviously cheap plated steel side rails in this era.

If the stainless side rails from a different mfr are the same dimensional layout you could swap them out for stainless on this game.

Mike O.

I'm not sure about the era of this Bally but by looking at the pics, I would agree with MikeO. These look like plated steel rather than stainless. Basically judging by the wear marks around the flipper buttons. Stainless doesn't turn like that. I don't know what your buget, or willingness to spend money on this game, But I would buy a set of repro side rails. Doug Huse from Letsplaypinball.com makes a nice pair for reasonable money. I'm not sure if he has rails for games with 2 flipper buttons on one side of the cab, but you can find out. Sending the originals out from chrome is costly, shipping both ways and chrome shows every tiny ding or crease in the metal. Oh yeah and I just found these: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/0360-00128-0100

When I install new rails, I don't use the spiral nails for 2 reasons, first the hammer can slip and dent the rail if you're not careful and secondly it's hard to remove them down the road. Instead I just use stainless #4 X 5/8 in. screws. I polish the heads with the dremel and green rouge to a mirror finish.

Rich

It depends how rusty the spiral nails are, sometimes you get lucky if some of them are sticking out enough to get a small nail puller under them. Rusty nails are tougher to remove. If you're not saving the rails and are only concerned not to damage the cab, you'll need to get a wide flat tool such as a 4 inch wall paper scraper or a drywall trowel and a small pry bar. Where ever you place the pry bar for leverage, you'll want to put the blade of the trowel or scraper under the pivot point so the tools don't dent the wood. What ever you use, it must be wide and thick to disperse the pressure of the prybar. I always start at the flipper button hole end, start the pry bar or heavy 2 inch wide scraper under the rail and lift it close to the nails. Take it slow and try not to bent the rail if you are re-using it. Once you get a few out, it gets easier, remember that there's some nails on the top edge under the backbox that you'll have to deal with, well atleast on most games.

I wouldn't remove the rails, unless you are really trying for perfection or replacing.

Honestly if you want to make them look better I would try light sanding in one direction to create a brushed steel look. I would test in an inconspicuous area to make sure you can get the desired look. Just make sure you scuff the finish, not go through it.

Beyond that, I might consider taping off and spraying trim black or some other color if it really bothered you. Finnish with a clear and you can get pretty nice, inexpensive results.

Good for you for wanting to make those rails nice again. Lovef2k has provided some good pointers-use a wide plastic prybar to gently move the rail away from the cabinet. Push the rail back up against the side and the head of the twisty nail will be sticking out ever-so-slightly. Then you can use a snipper to grab the nail and heres the big clue: twist as you are removing it. Take your time and and they will come out fairly easy.

Nice alternative!

Clay recommended in one of his TOP videos to use 150 grit sandpaper, only going back and forth in one direction. I tried it on my Sys 11 rails and worked out well. No removal needed.

This procedure really only applies to stainless steel side rails. These are plated steel. Won't work.

Mike O.

You want to use a broad thin member under the rail to keep from denting the cabinet or deforming the rail. What I do is use a couple of thin nylon scrapers to wedge in there. Once I have a nail loose I take a vise grip and pull/twist it out. The more you get out the easier it gets to pull the next one. Go slow.

The best solution you have here once the rails are removed it to have them and the lockdown bar sandblasted and powder coated.

Mike O.

Thanks Mike. . . that's what I like about Pinside--I'm always learning something.

an after pic would be sweet,

Just remember to turn the nails counter-clockwise as you pull them out...just like loosening a screw. The Pinball Resource is the only place that I know of that sells the exact length/style replacement nails...that is for Gottliebs so I don't know if your pin would be the same.

Side rail nails...scroll down page:>>> http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html

If you're lucky enough, sometimes if you push in on the side rail and there's a little 'wiggle' room it will give you more of the head of the nail to stick out to grab on.

It's really not that bad. Just getting the nail started is the worst. Lots of tips posted already on removal. Try to guard/protect the cabinet w/cloth/sponge/etc. from what ever tool you use should you decide to pull them out.

I think to chrome would be much more costly.

Good luck!

I don't bother with the nippers to pull the nails. I use a thin-bladed pry bar (Eastwing makes a good one) that I even file a bit more taper to the edge to get under the very back of the rails to get things started. The first nail can easily be pulled out once the head is high enough to get the pry bar under. This style has a notch(taper here too)for this very thing!It is a 'nail' puller afterall! If it's an older game from the 60's, there might be another nail on the top that makes it more challenging but possible with practice/skill. Work towards the front supporting the rail as you go for the last few. If done properly, there should be no damage. Then you can re-grain the rail as others already mentioned. I start with 120 stepping up to 600 or higher depending on final finish.For the new rail nails from PBR, I simply fill the old hole with a bit of toothpick, so they stay even though the original nail was not 'unscrewed'. This can actually be a benefit if the original factory nail was driven at an angle (tsk, tsk! )

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