(Topic ID: 181817)

SI is our first machine! Now, help me, pinside...you're my only hope!

By nudgerfoder

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20170305_150104_resized (resized).jpg
20170305_150035_resized (resized).jpg
1487640277564-792395737 (resized).jpg
1487618390059-1544188164 (resized).jpg
14876182582371386398232 (resized).jpg
14876177153151361388427 (resized).jpg
#1 7 years ago

Husband and I picked our first machine a week or so ago, Space Invaders. Nice "player's machine," with wear around the inserts and some planking. Ok for us, planning to just clean, wax and enjoy. New rubber and ball, locked ball waiting to be put in. Both of us are using loose terms we've picked up on pinside after about a month...be gentle with us newbies This was our V-day present to each other, and we are realizing we've stepped into a serious responsibility We will both be eagerly watching and responding to our first topic, posts about our first machine, looking for 'newbie' advice like:

1: What's up with a single invader light not lit that doesn't seem to be the socket or bulb?

2: What are those burnt marks on the solenoid driver board?

3: Just how "hacked" is this power supply?

4: What kinds of tools will we need to pull the light sockets, maybe swap in a stronger flipper down the road, do other minor playfield repairs like single lights out, etc?
Can/should we do any of this with the playfield up, connected? (small soldering is what other half suggested, told him maybe not with game together? How would one quickly test work, otherwise?)

5: Generally, help?! us protect the game from ourselves...and my husband from the game, maybe One zap already. Reminding him to go slowly...he is like a kid again, wiggling wires near the top blue invader light and just trying to get back to cleaning it. I have to admit, I can't wait to get that one light working and know if we are OK to really play this for hours!

We both really look forward working with this community - already had a great experience with a pinsider who helped us with the pickup. Awesome to have this kind of support and knowledge out there! We plan to take pictures of the specific questions and post over the next week, but if anyone is stuck at work, bored and has any starter tips

#2 7 years ago

1. Can you describe the problem more? Post a pic?
2. Often if a coil or transistor goes bad it'll go up in flames, which'll leave a burn on the board. If all the coils work fine it's nothing to fear
3. We'll need some pictures to be able to say
4. Screwdrivers, nut drivers, wrenches. An Allen wrench to remove the flippers. Work can be done with the machine assembled as long as it's turned off. Sometimes it's easier to rest the playfield back against the backbox, but removing the playfield usually isn't required (and is a bit of a pain on old ballys)
5. To be safe, it's best not to be touching stuff under the playfield while the machine is on. You can short switches or light sockets to other parts and that can damage the boards if you're unlucky.

#3 7 years ago

The Other Half here.

1.) Invader light was working. Bulb is fine. Hoping I didn't do any damage with the wiggles. Had luck with the other sockets that way

Three invader lights in a row in pic there. Middle one has wire that wiggled free. Was connected. Was working for first week, just today tried bulb swap and twisting of socket slightly as described with previously success. Nothing doing this time around, was about to solder wire back after stripping a little, see if a clean solder might be magic, haha.

14876177153151361388427 (resized).jpg14876177153151361388427 (resized).jpg

#4 7 years ago

3.) Here is the power supply my wife described, lol:

14876182582371386398232 (resized).jpg14876182582371386398232 (resized).jpg

1487618390059-1544188164 (resized).jpg1487618390059-1544188164 (resized).jpg

#5 7 years ago

I was looking at the lamp thinking, yeah, that's a nice, easy fix.

Then, I scrolled down and saw the power supply! Yuck! I don't even know where to start, so I'll say "Don't leave it unattended and keep a fire extinguisher handy." It might not actually be "that" bad, but it sure isn't pretty. I'll let someone who knows this era better than I do help you with this one.

#6 7 years ago

It looks like many of the connectors on the power supply have been bypassed and the wires soldered directly. This is usually because the original connectors burn after being used for thousands of hours and people don't have the parts on hand to replace them. In addition, at least one of the rectifiers have probably been replaced, as well as a diode for the high voltage display section (that one part sticking out on the side), and at some point the whole board was replaced, but instead of soldering wires to the back like you're supposed to, they just used wire nuts. If everything works (and the voltages at the test points on there are correct) there's nothing there that's an immediate hazard (although I'd make sure any taped wires aren't in danger of the tape coming off and then touching something else), but if you wanted to be correct you should probably buy a replacement board ($40ish) and new connectors. (you could rebuild that board too but if you don't have much experience soldering and working on boards that might be a bit much to tackle)

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from nudgerfoder:

Here is the power supply my wife described,

WOW!! That even scares me, and I was in the Marine Corps.

#8 7 years ago

Hasty repairs and shortcuts abound, I'm sure. "Gotta fix it, quick, so I can roll that score again," every owner of this particular machine must have said to themselves.

I'm a complete newbie, as mentioned, so I'm crash-coursing simple things like positive and negative wire 'flows,' layout, general terminology. Sheesh, I should get comfy with the manual and someone's suggested "beginners guide to pinball guts" online lore. Feels like when I showed up to music theory in college after having learned and taught myself by ear... You can't flunk out of Pinside, right?

***

I thought the same as you, herg and have been only playing the amount needed to assess condition.

Plays very well, given the *possible* nightmare of a power supply even a newbie like me can recognize.
Until that blue invader light didn't respond to a wiggle, new bulb, I was going to just cross my fingers and clean, rubber and wax and watch for the first sign of an issue. So glad everything worked, again, given that mess. Wondering if this middle blue invader is the first sign of trouble to come -Or- if I got unlucky and messed something up, as zacaj mentioned, by just trying to check socket, replace bulb while machine was on.

Either way, I know a cheap multi-meter will be of use later, for sure. Any specific way they can used to diagnose this blue invader light, socket issue? (Also open to additional, general multi-meter usefulness down the road re: Medusa the power supply, lol.)

Gotta love the wife for kick starting this project for me, today You guys are quick and gentle, so far, haha. Much thanks!

#9 7 years ago

Before swapping board see if the game runs correctly. That would make it easier if you know all the wires are hooked up correctly.

I think that rectifier board is similar if not the same as my Stern Stars. It's not too hard to change out and put some new wire in there to replace the wirenuts.

I agree with zacaj that wirenuts and black tape aren't a hazard as long as they are still doing their job. Swapping it out would improve reliability and peace of mind though.

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from dmbjunky:

Before swapping board see if the game runs correctly. That would make it easier if you know all the wires are hooked up correctly.

Runs very well. Played it for about a week, at least once a day, noticing this light and that light flicker and fixing with a simple wiggle or two.

Quoted from dmbjunky:

I agree with zacaj that wirenuts and black tape aren't a hazard as long as they are still doing their job. Swapping it out would improve reliability and peace of mind though.

Good - I was thinking the same thing and was super-pumped to just clean, rubber and wax the puppy until this blue invader forced us to pop our Pinside cherry

Assuming that when I solder the wire back on it still doesn't work, what's my next step with this center invader?
It's just about the only bulb left on the thing not working and the first one that hasn't been a simple wiggle or burnt bulb. Worked up until yesterday.

#11 7 years ago

You can buy a rottendog rectifier board for around sixty and Marco's has rectifier board connector kits. I went ahead and bought a crimper because I like new tools.

I bought a refurbished board but it still had problems so it might be best to buy a new one. If you want to practice your board fixing skills you can use the old one.

Blitz wax, Novus 1 and 2, some microfiber cloths also might be worth getting. When the game's operational maybe you can try some Titan silicone rubbers (or other rubbers if you prefer) and some LEDs if you want. There are many manufacturers of LEDs (I prefer Comets for what's it's worth).

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from dmbjunky:

I think that rectifier board is similar if not the same as my Stern Stars.

Space Invaders (and a few other games) use a special rectifier board (note the two weird transistor things at the top) for increased current. I assume modern replacements are compatible, but you'd have to make sure.

Quoted from nudgerfoder:

Assuming that when I solder the wire back on it still doesn't work, what's my next step with this center invader?
It's just about the only bulb left on the thing not working and the first one that hasn't been a simple wiggle or burnt bulb.

So, to be clear, you soldered it back on, replaced the bulb, wiggled it around, and it still doesn't work? The next thing to try is to take a jumper wire (with clamps on the ends) and jump the tab (that you soldered the wire to) to the tab of one of the other lights. If the bad light turns on along with the other, good light, then it's probably a problem at the light board. (if it still doesn't turn on, then you should replace the socket). If it's a light board problem, there's a good chance the transistor is bad on the light board. I'd order 5 of each of the two types of transistors on the board to be prepared, and then replace whichever one goes to that light. There's a few other possible causes, but 99% of the time that'll fix any light

I'd suggest you curl up with a copy of http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/ tonight and just read through it all. Lots of great little things you can learn about the game from it.

#13 7 years ago
Quoted from nudgerfoder:

Runs very well. Played it for about a week, at least once a day, noticing this light and that light flicker and fixing with a simple wiggle or two.

Good - I was thinking the same thing and was super-pumped to just clean, rubber and wax the puppy until this blue invader forced us to pop our Pinside cherry
Assuming that when I solder the wire back on it still doesn't work, what's my next step with this center invader?
It's just about the only bulb left on the thing not working and the first one that hasn't been a simple wiggle or burnt bulb. Worked up until yesterday.

It might be best to put on some new black tape to make sure nothing touches.

When working on a game I always turn it off. I never leave them on unattended either.

Solder the wire and then let us know.

#14 7 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Space Invaders (and a few other games) use a special rectifier board (note the two weird transistor things at the top) for increased current. I assume modern replacements are compatible, but you'd have to make sure.

Yeah it wasn't a rottendog but just a new board from Marco.

Here's the link.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PS2518-18

#15 7 years ago

Here's the club thread if you want to check what SI's look like spiffed up.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-space-invaders-playfield-restoration

How's your backglass? A lot of them are flaky.

#16 7 years ago

Thanks, guys.
Just what we needed so far. The power supply parts specifically...love this website and you guys for having the links in my hands so quickly. The tool suggestions, the reading material... this, in particular, is the type of stuff I need to learn from square one:

Quoted from zacaj:If it's a light board problem, there's a good chance the transistor is bad on the light board. I'd order 5 of each of the two types of transistors on the board to be prepared, and then replace whichever one goes to that light.

Understood that we start with the first step.
Going to wander the hardware store looking for a few simple things. Jumper wire should be easy to build if it's not something they just sell. This is certainly going to be my new norm. I always wanted to learn this stuff.

Will try the solder, jumper and get back.

#17 7 years ago
Quoted from nudgerfoder:

Thanks, guys.
Just what we needed so far. The power supply parts specifically...love this website and you guys for having the links in my hands so quickly. The tool suggestions, the reading material... this, in particular, is the type of stuff I need to learn from square one:

Understood that we start with the first step.
Going to wander the hardware store looking for a few simple things. Jumper wire should be easy to build if it's not something they just sell. This is certainly going to be my new norm. I always wanted to learn this stuff.
Will try the solder, jumper and get back.

Usually they'll have whole packs of alligator clip jumpers around

#18 7 years ago

If you buy a multimeter buy a good one. One with continuity test is a must.

Dad's got a pretty expensive fieldpiece set that's expandable with attachments. You don't need that though.

Did I mention I like new tools?

#19 7 years ago
Quoted from nudgerfoder:

This is certainly going to be my new norm. I always wanted to learn this stuff.

I've found it even helps in other hobbies. I love old electronics and was fixing a reel to reel th other day. I had to order a capacitor for the motor.

#20 7 years ago
Quoted from dmbjunky:

Here's the club thread if you want to check what SI's look like spiffed up.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-space-invaders-playfield-restoration
How's your backglass? A lot of them are flaky.

I've power read that whole thing So far, not a fan of the restoration for our game...looks absolutely awesome in it's battered arcade-glory condition. Considered new caps, maybe new plastics, but aside from the plastic directly next to the furthest right '50' dead bumper they are in good condition.

Something about it all matching with it's wear, showing the sheer amount of continued use without anyone having attempted a restore makes me want to just leave it as close to this as we can. I thought I'd want to do the lamp driver and led's right away, too, but now I'm thinking just switching to 47's instead of the 44's. Wife agrees, likes the warm glow, said, "I don't wan't to be overloaded or add colors that weren't intended to compliment the artwork." I just can't get over the story it all tells... I think I'm just still head-over-heals and maybe, down the road, both the wife and I won't mind if our new friend gets a little work done The power supply is a no brainer, though, and of course, we have to make sure we are out of the woods with my learning cusp and this blue invader hangup, lol.

Backglass looks to be very nice. I'm not too familiar with the specifics of flaking but certainly nothing that looks like the start of that, there.

Quoted from dmbjunky:

I've found it even helps in other hobbies. I love old electronics and was fixing a reel to reel th other day. I had to order a capacitor for the motor.

Absolutely on the money. I have a tascam 4 track cassette I want to use with some tubes to record drums. Gotta throw a new playback motor in there and I'm good to go. The multimeter is something I've been putting off for a while, and I feel like a lot of basic info is going to come from just jumping in on a few smaller things like old broken audio equipment. Gotta admit though- I'm using pinball to escape the music industry...and realizing it's intrinsically still going to be right next door!

#21 7 years ago

Adding the continuity test to the list of musts while shopping for a multimeter.

Off to the store and to solder. I, (or my wife!) will be back on here tomorrow to let you guys know how the tab-clip test goes after I get that positive wire back to the socket for the center blue invader.

#22 7 years ago
Quoted from nudgerfoder:

Adding the continuity test to the list of musts while shopping for a multimeter.

Shouldn't have any problems there. Even a $6 multimeter will have a continuity test function.

#23 7 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Shouldn't have any problems there. Even a $6 multimeter will have a continuity test function.

It may not beep though. Technically anything with an ohmeter can test continuity, but

#24 7 years ago

There are certainly different opinions on how far to fix up games and that's cool. For myself I like a restored, clearcoted playfield that makes it play like new with a unrestored cab. I try to take care of my cabs but I let the wear tell the story of it's life. But I do like a game to play awesome.

Also incandescents are fine. Some people worry about the heat causing more damage to plastics, inserts and the backglass. You probably won't have the game on for long periods like in it's previous life though. However there are some warm white LEDs that can closely mimic incandescents if you're interested later on.

If this is your first time with pinball or a rediscovery of pinball, take a trip to a show sometime. You'll see some pretty nice playing, looking, and sounding machines. Louisville Arcade Expo is coming the start of Mar.

Try watching some PAPA competition videos too. It might be something you and your wife will enjoy.

Here's a TNT vid also of SI.

#25 7 years ago
Quoted from dmbjunky:

Also incandescents are fine. Some people worry about the heat causing more damage to plastics, inserts and the backglass. You probably won't have the game on for long periods like in it's previous life though. However there are some warm white LEDs that can closely mimic incandescents if you're interested later on.

The one thing I worry about is the lights in the pop bumper caps. Those things get so hot in just a few minutes I'm amazed the caps ever survive. I put warm white frosted leds in my pop bumpers when possible but leave the rest incandescent

#26 7 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

The one thing I worry about is the lights in the pop bumper caps. Those things get so hot in just a few minutes I'm amazed the caps ever survive. I put warm white frosted leds in my pop bumpers when possible but leave the rest incandescent

I like a mix as well.

#27 7 years ago

Might want to bookmark this site for hints, tips & tricks:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

#28 7 years ago

Yeah, that is a hacked power supply. I had similar issues with my SI, but I got through them and I'm just about done with this project. Here is a link to some pictures that may help with fixing the power supply:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-space-invaders-20-pin-power-supply-connector-wiring

#29 7 years ago

*Updates*

Good: soldered blue invader light, works now. Must have just really needed it.

Bad: curiously moved a few of the taped wires around on the wider molex on the horror-show of a power supply and this blue wire seemed to break free from what I am assuming we call the 6th pin? from the left.

Was going to reiterate my beginner status in the a.m. in reference to this intimidating power supply, but since this blue wire issue has me so bummed right now...

What am I up against as far as just getting this blue wire back where it was when the game was working today? Will need the names of the tools, little wire end pieces I'll need... crimpers as already mentioned, wire stippers and maybe some ?Ga wire.

dmbjunky - the curse of the new tools is upon me! Lol
Eric_S - thanks for the link. Will be referencing now in case of blue wire answers by some chance...and again later down the road when we do the swap.

1487640277564-792395737 (resized).jpg1487640277564-792395737 (resized).jpg

#30 7 years ago
Quoted from nudgerfoder:

What am I up against as far as just getting this blue wire back where it was when the game was working today? Will need the names of the tools, little wire end pieces I'll need... crimpers as already mentioned, wire stippers and maybe some ?Ga wire.

If you want to fully replace the connector you'll need some 0.156" connector parts: pins, headers, and a housing. Might as well order the parts for all three connectors. If you email great plains electronics they can probably tell you what you need. They also stock the replacement boards: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=135-105. If you look on that page they also give a list of the connector parts. Grab some fuses and fuse holders too just in case.

The wire was probably soldered directly to a pin before it broke off. You could do the same thing to get it back running. What is the color code on the wire? Can probably find a color listing to know what pin it should be online.

You'll want some crimpers, a wire stripper, a wire clipper, probably 18-20Ga wire?

#31 7 years ago
Quoted from nudgerfoder:

*Updates*
Good: soldered blue invader light, works now. Must have just really needed it.
Bad: curiously moved a few of the taped wires around on the wider molex on the horror-show of a power supply and this blue wire seemed to break free from what I am assuming we call the 6th pin? from the left.
Was going to reiterate my beginner status in the a.m. in reference to this intimidating power supply, but since this blue wire issue has me so bummed right now...
What am I up against as far as just getting this blue wire back where it was when the game was working today? Will need the names of the tools, little wire end pieces I'll need... crimpers as already mentioned, wire stippers and maybe some ?Ga wire.
dmbjunky - the curse of the new tools is upon me! Lol
Eric_S - thanks for the link. Will be referencing now in case of blue wire answers by some chance...and again later down the road when we do the swap.

I know you want to play your game right away but if that solder joint broke from the pin that easily, I would just buy new parts. If you order them right away they might come by the weekend and you can work on it Sat.

Repinning connectors isn't too hard but requires patience and soldering the four wires to the rectifier board is also pretty straightforward. Replacing the wires that were spliced with wirenuts might take awhile but wouldn't have to be done right away.

Board
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PS2518-18

Connectors
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKBLY

I think you can get the crimper from any hardware store but here's Marco's.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW

Great plains might be cheaper so you might want to go with them.

#32 7 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

The wire was probably soldered directly to a pin before it broke off. You could do the same thing to get it back running. What is the color code on the wire? Can probably find a color listing to know what pin it should be online.

Thanks zacaj - Eric's pics helped me quickly confirm where the blue wire indeed was. Got the solder on the second try, powered and played well. (Huge confidence boost on power up, even for such a little, hack job.)
Wife and I both were able to play a few games for the first time. She schooled me?! I mean, I took it easy on her

Quoted from dmbjunky:

I know you want to play your game right away but if that solder joint broke from the pin that easily, I would just buy new parts. If you order them right away they might come by the weekend and you can work on it Sat.
Repinning connectors isn't too hard but requires patience and soldering the four wires to the rectifier board is also pretty straightforward. Replacing the wires that were spliced with wirenuts might take awhile but wouldn't have to be done right away.
Board
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PS2518-18
Connectors
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKBLY
I think you can get the crimper from any hardware store but here's Marco's.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW

dmbjunky I'm seeing about a $15 difference between the Great Plains board and the Marco board, along with some visual differences - any reason to consider one over the other?
You're speaking truth for sure re: just getting the board correct. You and the others have really helped us both overcome our novice fears. The blue invader, blue wire soldering has me feeling better with an iron, and now I'm happy just waiting for parts knowing this thread is here for us when they come in!

***

Wife has a few SI game play, scoring questions she wants to ask about next while we wait for parts, rectifier board. Also, she might be on 'team Blitz...' has a few cautious questions about protecting our worn playfield, etc.

We will resist putting a week's worth of plays on it and brush up on a few other subjects, here. Pinsiders are great. Thanks again, all.

#33 7 years ago

I'm sure both Great Plains and Marcos boards will work. I've never dealt with Great Plains but I've heard good things. Marcos has always been good to me.

If you want some more reading material for waxing, here you go...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide

And if you want to try your hand at restoring later on...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

#34 7 years ago

About to pull the trigger on the Great Plains board. Says it comes with the connectors, fuses - all for $60. Sweet. Threw a crimp tool on for $5 and I think I'm all set.

-Wire Stripper
-Crimp tool
-Wire nuts
-Solder, flux and iron

Middle of the line multi-meter w/ beep for cont. test from hardware store, amazon...

Can't think of anything else with my little experience and research. I'm bit nervous about tracing the wires back, finding the correct wires for J1, J2, etc. but as my other half keeps telling me, I learn more each time I look at the rat's nest previous owner(s) left us.

We used some Mother's in lieu of the Blitz, but since we have moderate wear around inserts we want the wax to stick to the exposed wood..? Is that something the consistency of Blitz would even do? (I have no experience with car wax, one to another, and $35 for a tub is a bit much for us, especially if it won't have an effect.)

#35 7 years ago
Quoted from nudgerfoder:

We used some Mother's in lieu of the Blitz, but since we have moderate wear around inserts we want the wax to stick to the exposed wood..? Is that something the consistency of Blitz would even do? (I have no experience with car wax, one to another, and $35 for a tub is a bit much for us, especially if it won't have an effect.)

Two considerations here. First, car wax is generally not hard enough to last on a playfield. Blitz is much more durable.
The other consideration is silicone. Any silicone in the wax will mess up future repaint and/or clearcoat repairs to the playfield.
Way more and better info in the Vid's guide to cleaning and waxing linked a couple posts back.

#36 7 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Two considerations here. First, car wax is generally not hard enough to last on a playfield. Blitz is much more durable.
The other consideration is silicone. Any silicone in the wax will mess up future repaint and/or clearcoat repairs to the playfield.
Way more and better info in the Vid's guide to cleaning and waxing linked a couple posts back.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've actually read both threads pretty well. I need to slow down. In retrospect, I remember something, maybe about the 'more liquid the wax was, the more silicone...'
There is so much to sift through on those guides and I'm already overwhelmed as a newbie. There are a few instances where individual replies suggested the Mothers or the P21S as an alternative, now I guess I have something to look for and "learn to deal with" when I eventually attempt some touch ups. I wish that part had stuck in my head when I thought back, instead of remembering the alternative brand suggestion, for some reason. Vid must have been assuming we had already taken his liquid consistancy warning. Hoping that when I have the time, there is some sanding or other prep/technique I can use, (in Vid's other guide I'm sure, 80+ pages on that one!)

Inevitably, there is a learning curve to all of this tied to experience and resources at hand. With our first machine came the opportunity to 'dive right in' and learn - everything from the connection issues with the solder on a few lights to the fried and hacked power supply had a certainly amount of first time association that had to be hands on for me to 'get' certain parts so quickly. Helps to hold things and look with your eyes after so many words and pictures!

We understand more of the condition of our machine and the choices we have in the future, and I'm certainly ready to treat our next acquisition with a lot more confidence and inertia. I can only say that it's too tempting to simply google the process at hand and skip ahead in the threads to direct suggestions when you're trying to just play some flippin' pinball! The opportunity to take a deep breath, read and cross-reference, post on the subject at hand and wait for advice from the community is always there...

1 week later
#37 7 years ago

Just for motivation to get your SI fixed up, here are some pics of mine that I just finished up bringing back to life. It was dead as a doornail when I got it and just about everything needed some attention. I got a new plastic set from CPR, LEDs except for the chase lamps, new flipper bats all new bumper parts and drop targets, etc. I think it turned out pretty nice.

20170305_150035_resized (resized).jpg20170305_150035_resized (resized).jpg

20170305_150104_resized (resized).jpg20170305_150104_resized (resized).jpg

11 months later
#38 6 years ago

Just an update:

Since joining and jumping into this a little more than a year ago I've learned a LOT. Have a new board waiting for the right time to switch in, slowly massing other parts and helping others within driving distance move slowly while fixing their machines as well. Tons of help from this site, very grateful to have gained so much insight from this original post. Now, slowly working on a few more machines for my family when I visit and otherwise looking forward to having the correct space to tackle any serious PF restoration. Still in the land of no pins BUT driving to see the ones down in norther WI and having fun meeting people who need a little help getting their private machines going. Thanks to pinside for the great connections and troves of 411 in the forums. What a year - from absolute newbie to avid enthusiast with much more to still learn

#39 6 years ago
Quoted from nudgerfoder:

.... driving to see the ones down in norther WI and having fun meeting people who need a little help getting their private machines going. Thanks to pinside for the great connections and troves of 411 in the forums. What a year - from absolute newbie to avid enthusiast with much more to still learn

If you're within striking distance of WI; I'd suggest planning a weekend down here, at this April's "Midwest Gaming Classic" in Milwaukee.
(Plus if you have any questionable boards still... bring 'em down for Rob Anthony to look at while there. Or grab the parts you need.)

#40 6 years ago

Thanks for the lead - was originally just posting to let other's know it's not as intimidating as it seems after you get your feet wet...a good convention has been on my list and I will see about making this suggestion of yours a reality. Nice, knowing ppl are willing to part with parts and advice at these - sometimes having both together can make all the difference.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
2,600 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Massapequa, NY
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 18.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 9.00
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
 
$ 10.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
 
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 30.00
Lighting - Led
Pinballrom
 
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 69.00
$ 10.00
2,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Li, NY

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/si-is-our-first-machine-now-help-me-pinsideyoure-my-only-hope and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.