Always been a fan of shuffle alleys and Skeeball.
Picked up a Liberty Bell in the Fall,

Liberty Bell

She was inoperable and now plays like a champ.

Recently began restoring a United Banner i got a little over a month ago.

New Home

After many hours of work (cleaning) she is fully operational.
Had to cut a new coin door.
Now I get to move on to cosmetics.

New Lexan

With the hood up.

Always on the look out for a 13' Skeeball lane. Had one back in NY in the late 90s.

Latest addition/project thanks to DMRK !
Just stood her up, for a photo op.
Then I'll tear her down and get it workin!

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Hi Tim,

This pic is from a 73 Liberty Bell (sheet metal removed).
There is a rubber bumper that you can probably get from Steve over at pbresource.com.
Your bumper may have been larger than mine though, As you can see, there is no separation in the wood as seen on yours.

Brian

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Nice work Rob.
I got mine installed easy peasy.
Now just waffling on selling the old stuff.

Thanks for the work you do.
Brian

Found this in my Father's things a long time ago.

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It can be quite a hunt for a specific unit.
Keep an eye on CL, Letgo, and FB MarketPlace.
They seem to turn up there more than here.

Yeah, it really depends on what condition you consider "really nice" or "great shape" and how much work you are willing to put into it. Also how patient you are for one to pop up. The one i landed needed a little work, but she is fully operational now and original purchase price was $500. Right place - right time! I have the ticket dispenser but have not hooked it up or bought tickets.

Should work fine. the rocker arm is to only advance 9 balls while actually loading more balls into the machine.
This allows faster games to be played without waiting for 9 balls to return.

Depends on how much you are ready to sink into it.
The harness would not be a terrible effort to rebuild.
Do you have the controller unit in the head or is the head an empty shell?
Does it at least have the balls?
Are the switches there?
Ball advance rocker arm and solenoid?

The display board is one piece but there are parts it mounts to.
If you remove the marquee and take a photo it would tell a lot.

Take those batteries out now, even if you are waiting on the manual. They only help retain settings and high scores.
Feel free to hit us up with any questions.

Welcome and good luck

1. You can create a thread under restoration of you like. Restore to operation is still something. Your call.

2. Pins don't usually reset until a game is started on most SAs.

3. CMOS error is 99% likely b/c no batteries. It gets flagged as a failure.

I don't own this machine or have a schematic so cannot really comment on the rest.

Yeah that is pretty stripped out.
The T trough suggests it has 100 pt holes
How is the ring ramp? and the sand bags?
Is the coin mech working?

So you'll be looking for;

- Main controller
- Light shield (display mounts on it)
- score display (and baffle if you do not go with the Kahr replacement)
- ball count display (and baffle if not included)
- marquee (if you don't have one)
- light sockets
- topper (if you want one)
- rocker arm
- ball release solenoid
- balls
- maybe some new switches

LMK if you need some sources.

Skeeball Model S.pdf

Probably not the best to advise on Ice Ball as I have a Model S Skee. You should play it if you can, the ball advance is typically the main problem area for games. I think Ice Ball uses ball sensors instead of advancing 9 balls, but I could be wrong. Other than lighting there is not much to it. Look for cracks or physical damage to the targets and the troughs underneath. Target field should just lift up and out. Nets can be hard to replace if they are missing.
Good luck with the purchase.

I purchased some auto body bondo for just that reason but have not pursued the fix. Maybe a good winter project.

The mechanical flip number games were on the original Philadelphia Toboggan Skee Ball machines.
Good luck trying to track one of them down, they seem to get parted out quickly on ePay.

I find that everywhere from Ohio and to the east is where the bulk of skees are found.
You can search all of craigslist depending on how far you want to travel to get it. https://www.searchcraigslist.org/
I got lucky that someone near me had the 13 foot Model S I was looking for. I was searching for a couple years.
They tend to go quickly and depending upon what parts are missing and general condition prices can vary from $400-$2000.
You just need to decide what it is worth to you.
The correct balls will set you back if not there.

https://twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=684

In my experience, attempts to replace the wire typically end in failure.
It should be possible but a $3 switch is not worth an hour or two of my time.

Strikes and spares scoring is often separate step up units.
Good cleaning and a little lube.
Assuming all the bulbs are good.

Hey lint just catching up here.
I am traveling this weekend but can take a look at mine when i get home mid week.

First thought is that those springs look to be in really good shape, are they new?
I would try cycling the solenoid without the springs attached, and rest the position manually each time.
If that works fine your spring selection may be wrong.
Springs can be a PITA to get the right size and strength.

you only need enough strength to return the pawl to a standing position.