I backed this for the full kit minus the "Need it now" option.

I don't own a Skee Ball machine
This seems like a fantastic idea
I know Rob and believe in his products
I like to support people who make existing products better.

Hope you can reach your goal and get this made. I know your other Skee Ball products are proven and have made many machines better and more reliable.

Chris

What's the going rate for a very nice Williams Strike Master?
Thanks in advance

Hello Pinsiders! Anyone know the part number of the rollover assembly Shuffle Inn??
Are they same as
STRIKE ZONE
ALLEY CATS
TIC TAC STRIKE
GOLD MINE

All saying part #B-7752R #B-7752L

Joined the club finally!!!

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I sent my boards to ChrisHibler and he did a fantastic job freshening them up!

I installed the boards and It works!!!!

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As you can see, my son is already enjoying the game!

Since I don't know the history of this machine, there were a few items that I still had questions on, but after doing a little digging online, I think I have my answers.

1) As you can see in the back glass picture, the game selection indicators (i.e. Regulation, Flash, Big Strike, Strike 90, & Triple Strike) are located in the bottom left corner.
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However, when you look at the head unit without the back glass it is clear that the game indicator lights are on the bottom right corner. This led me to believe that the back glass and the lower glass (both say Triple Strike) were swapped into this unit?

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2) Since this is clearly not a Triple Strike I thought maybe it is actually a Big Strike machine. Triple Strike shares a manual with Big Strike. Other than artwork the major difference between the games is the game modes available. The game modes in Big Strike are Regulation, Big Strike, Single Shot, Strike 90, & Flashing Scoring. The Triple Strike games are listed above. My first instinct was that the game is actually Big Strike, but then I took a closer look at the game card on the unit. The games on my machine are Regulation, Single Shot, 800, Strike 90, and Flash. I confirmed the scoring through some game play and found that the game card seems to be correct.

After doing a little digging around online, the artwork (that I assumed was a non-original repaint) matches perfectly with the Omni Shuffle Alley, the game selection for Omni match what my machine has, and based on a TNT Amusement Video (#65) the back glass also appears to align with the game selection lights.

Does anyone have an Omni Shuffle Alley? If so are you willing to take a picture of the game selection light area for me to compare?

Well, my kickstarter didn't quite reach the funding goal, but that's not stopping me from making the optical switches. I've added them to my website (https://www.kahr.us) and have some in stock. I made sure to notify the kickstarter supporters when I first put the links on my site and decided to let this thread know next. Probably right after the Allentown show I'll post them on ebay.

-Rob
-visit https://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my replacement LED display boards for model 78, D, E, H & S Skee Ball

Just picked up a gold mine and the tray is missing, was going to go silicone spray only till I can find a tray, any suggestions on what spray to pick up? I see Sun Glo and game room guys have some on amazon.

I use any silicone from Auto Zone / Pep Boys etc. I wipe off the excess after spraying, and keep the room ventilated

Working on a Chicago Coin Criss Cross 1953. I believe cork was used on the sides, but what type of rubber rebound is used. I talked with Steve at Pinball Resource and he was not sure.

I wonder if William's side rubber at least would fit?

Thank you.

Just got my first Shuffle Bowler, a Williams "Alley Cats". It's in "sat in a storage unit for some time after being in the smokeiest bar on the planet" shape.

Few questions to start, will this missing chunk in the alley screw up gameplay? Should I try and fill it?

Can I replace the piece of wood near the pins with a similar wood moulding?

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That board near the rebound rubber isn’t anything special. Those divots in the playfield won’t likely affect gameplay.
That playfield is seriously beat. Wow.

I would fill the hole, it wont affect game play since it is so far back in the playfield. The wood piece in the back i would just sand down, that also has no affect on game play

Suggestions for filler?

Anyone know where I can find a PDF format manual for an "Alley Cats", zero clue what I'm doing here. First bowler I've dealt with.

Thanks

Check with "The Pinball Resource" (http://www.pbresource.com/). They had a manual for my shuffle alley.

Thanks, at the moment I'm trying to keep cost down as I haven't determined if this thing will actually make it into my arcade. The displays are toast, the playfield is rough, it could use pins, needs the smaller marquee plexi and stainless cover in front. I also have to pull every rollover and de-rust, its blowing a GI fuse, not playing correctly, and still smells like a biker bar. Only thing going for it is its rebuilt Sys 11 pcb.

I've never been unable to locate a free PDF manual online, until now. Found a "Gold Rush" one, which is similar, but it has a special flasher pcb, so doesn't help me with that fuse issue.

This may end up in the firepit.

Caved, bought a manual on Feebay.

Anyone know the part number for the pictures rollover switch on a Williams Strike Master or where to purchase a replacement?

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I know this doesn't list it for a Strike master, but appears to be the same.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-7752L

Thank you - I found that as well but wasnt sure since Strike Master wasnt listed. I reached out to Todd Tuckey and he has some - for those of you that may need parts in the future he has a stash of bowler parts.

What do you guys replace these “pads” that the pins flip up to with?

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I've used other things, but the thicker stickim weather stripping works okay, but instead
of just applying them straight on, after I lightly sand, vacuum, then clean the areas of the
pin deck, I use contact cement to ensure they hold..

So clean, sand, vacuum, apply contact cement, then weather stripping correct?

Actually, first finger tip sand the small areas so a little bare wood is shown, then vacuum, then
clean to make sure all the dust is removed. Damping a piece of cloth with just water is fine, but
I usually like using Paint Thinner (drys/evaporates fast).
Then apply contact cement to the pin deck areas along with the stickim side of the weather
stripping, of any tough type coarse foam you might have, but many weather strippings are
a width that words nicely. Once the contact cement is dry to the touch, it's ready to apply.
Some weather strippings are tougher than others. They're the ones you want to look for..
Note: I should have said the stickim side of the pieces of weather stripping. It's best to have
them pre-cut before applying the contact cement. I usually use a small Artist type painter's brush
when applying the contact cement..

I take roofing rubber and roll it into a “hose” and staple it alongside each pin allowing the portion under the pin to remain slightly bulged roughly like a collapsed hose. I use a pneumatic stapler with 1/2” long staples
I hope this makes sense. The air gap made by the rolled rubber works very well to cushion the pin. Not super pretty but super effective. I’ve tried a few types of foam but the pins have a nasty habit of slicing through the foam like a knife.

That’s what I’m noticing. Foam is fine except for where the pins cut in to it all the way.

Do you have a picture?

Yup, the cheap stuff that's not thick and dense wears quickly.
For the Ball Bowlers I have out, I've mouse pads..

Here ya go. I stapled them in the middle, not the sides. Now the pins land quiet and not with that “crack” that eventually breaks them.

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Joining the club as soon as I go pick it up in a few weeks. Had an EM puck bowler some years ago and enjoyed it so when a United Aristocrat became available somewhat locally I had to jump on it.

It’s rough, non working of course, and looks like it was soaked for years in a vat of nicotine. Spent it’s whole life in only 1 location/bar, then storage.

I am very comfortable for Wms Sys 3-6 board work so no biggie. Excited to get started!

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Looking for a decent 10 foot Model H, S or new version skee ball if anyone has one.

Thanks!

Looking to sell or trade my 16 ft Amazon bowler. Planning some home improvements which is making things tight for the 16+ feet you need for this game. Game works great!

Great chance for someone to join this club.

Cash or a pin +/- cash.

PM me if interested.

i have a couple of nice lanes. where are you located

just shoot me a pm whenever you get a chance. thank

Just listed my 16 foot big ball bowler if anyone is interested in joining this club. Trades welcomed as I'm trying to make room for a home improvement project. I could really use the extra 10 feet now!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/140212

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My goodness this thing was so filthy. So much nicotine to clean off. The switches were all tarnished and not making any electrical contact. All the pin mechs needed to come out and take a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner. Lots of rusted parts went in evaporust as well.

Game is up and running! Needed new rubbers all around, pins, lights, ballasts, board work(usual stuff like sockets and interconnect, blown ICs and transistors). Last thing is I need a PIA. The one I have on solenoids is damaged and certain coils are weak, sound coils are dead. I swapped PIAs and confirmed it was the cause.

For some crazy reason all original displays work! Did not expect that! Already bought LED displays but will wait before swapping. LED’d the whole game.

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Thanks GPS!

It does break down into 3 separate pieces. The only truly challenging piece is the middle lane section with the pin hood. I believe it can be removed, but I wasn't willing to do that. Fortunately my sliding door opens wide enough to pass through.

Still looking for a sale or trade, and open to offers!

Always lot's of work getting things cleaned and functional, but so worth the effort!

Nice job!

Hi,
I have own a United Team Shuffle shufflebowl. Recently, it sounds like the pin reset mechanism has gotten a little noisier/louder than usual. All the pins reset correctly. I am just concerned that possibly something is beginning to bind. Is there any area that I should pay attention to....any parts need occasional oiling?
Thanks for any suggestions,
Bruce

On the Pin Reset motor (and also the Score Motor), the armature pulls in when energized
(running), and springs back out when stopped. There's a little tail on the backside that
you can see pulls in once energized. Putting a couple drops of light weight oil (I like using
Remmington Gun oil) on the tail, then running the motor should not only help with the
noise, but also maybe speed up the motor a little bit. Sometimes I first spray a little Thrust
on the tail, run the motor, then a couple drops of the light weight oil..

I serviced one recently which had a loud motor. The motor armature was also sticking on it's shaft, causing it to over run at times. Because of the position of the motor, it's a bit tricky to lube.
If you don't have a pinpoint oiler (I didn't), moisten a cotton swab with the oil, and dab it on all the motor shaft ends. I used a lightweight synthetic oil.
Make sure the armature slides freely on it's shaft because it needs to disengage from the drive when the motor is powered off.
I wish I had some photos to post, but I don't. Can Mopar post some pix?

Thanks guys. I applied a lightweight oil with a cotton swab. (I didn't want to overdo it). It does sound a little quieter. I'll play it for a couple of days and see how it sounds then.
Thanks for the suggestions!

I use Freeall (don't like DW40 so much), but sometimes first spraying
with Thrust, or P.B. Blaster, Freeall, ect., then energize the motor a few
times, then a couple drops of light weight oil (Remmington Gun Oil contains
teflon, likes to stick around), seems to work better.
I wouldn't apply Trust (ect.) in the front, but a couple drops of light weight
oil in the hole that's in the center of that black nut on the front side can also be a plus,
but usually the small armature's tail in the rear is the key, (Trust, energize, then light weight oil)..
Let us know..

Should any of the other pivot points on the rods going to the pins be lubed also?
Thanks

As long as there's no plastic involved (so metal on metal) light weight oil won't hurt.
As a rule, where the thick wire type rods wraps around the rod, I oil through the
wraps to help prevent any dragging/grabbing, but any moving parts that's metal on
metal light weight oil is fine. Oil on plastic will actually expand the plastic, and it
really doesn't hurt too much unless it's close tolerance, but I try to keep it to a rule
not to oil/lube anything containing plastic, nylon, ect. Only metal on metal..
btw: For me, I sense Remmington Gun Oil (in a small bottle, not the aresal) being
better than 3 in 1 and others..

Thanks for the suggestions Mopar.
I did hit each metal-on-metal pivot point with a drop of light weight oil. I played the game for 45 minutes and the pin retraction appears to be quite a bit smoother.
Thanks again!

Your welcome.
Now the Pin Reset motor's revolution may be slightly faster (where it normally should be), and
if some pins go back up after reset, that means the Score Motor is running slow and a couple
drops of light weight oil should be applied on its armature's tail also so that the Score Motor
operates fast enough to reset the Relay Bank before the pins reaches the totally reset position..

Bowler has been sold. I'm officially out of the club.

Wanna join the club? It's not my listing, but over on usedrides.com somebody posted an ICE Ball for $1350:

https://www.usedrides.com/rides/222592

Listed in Farmingdale, NY.

-Rob
-visit https://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my optical sensor upgrade for model H & S Skee Ball

i got a couple of copies of that book. but i haven't made it past like like the first chapter where the brothers start the company or whatever at the saw mill.

but it is a decent book and all that fun stuff.