(Topic ID: 174947)

Shuffle/Ball/Skee Club. Join Us!

By GPS

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 766 posts
  • 177 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Irishbastard
  • Topic is favorited by 95 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    20220513_151305.jpg
    20220513_151247.jpg
    0325222030b (resized).jpg
    0325222030a (resized).jpg
    0325222011 (resized).jpg
    1139939E-821D-477E-A947-DABB172CB27C (resized).jpeg
    20220130_145745.jpg
    42013100 (resized).jpg
    SkeePucks (resized).jpg
    988656FA-9D16-43E0-9BB5-6D314A3A2AFA (resized).jpeg
    D0605688-B33D-41F6-B8BB-C9B64FBBA930 (resized).jpeg
    5D213B59-4928-40AD-8853-1F9112178CFA (resized).jpeg
    0ACDD663-40F3-4D3E-BDA8-489BCB5FAB05 (resized).jpeg
    952E6257-923C-498F-AB66-68A81D5EDCF9 (resized).jpeg
    image (resized).jpg
    9DC217F2-3918-4710-A674-84CC3D6B79CC (resized).jpeg

    There are 766 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 16.
    #651 11 months ago

    I was contacted by someone who wants to get his grandfather's United 4-Way puck bowler working. It has not worked for quite awhile. I looked at it via Facetime, and it is missing the reset bank coil. He said he had it, but it was burned up. He did not have a schematic, so I am at a loss of what the coil number would be. I have a bunch of coils, so I am hoping I would have one that would work, or at least a part number to start searching.

    The machine was given to Grandpa by a "friend of the family" in the business. Interestingly, it has less than 1000 plays, and to start a game, you pulled on a cord attached to a relay. The coin box assembly is missing - probably to keep the machine from being out in the public.

    I don't want to work on it, so if you're near Chatham, Illinois and are interested, PM me and I'll put you in contact with the owner. It will also need a power cord and will need to figure out why the reset coil burned up. If you have a schematic or a link, please let me know, too. Thanks

    #652 11 months ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    I have a bunch of coils, so I am hoping I would have one that would work, or at least a part number to start searching.

    I believe the 4 way is a late 50s machine. The Reset Bank Coil is 110V
    I very most likely have some, but I need to save them for Ball Bowlers
    that still need to be gone through.
    If he still has the old coil, it can be rewound. I've rewound 110V coils with
    the same wire I wind the 110V motors with, and it works fine.
    I'm sure Steve Young or one of those guys can help you out, but if you have
    an AC motor shop around, they should be able to take the old windings off,
    and put new on..

    #653 11 months ago

    Mopar -Thanks. Any idea on resistance of the coil after being wound?

    The local motor shop tends to “lose” things, and after them losing the second special design motor, I’ve decided I’m done with them.

    He still has the old coil so if the bobbin is still good, that sounds like the way to go.

    Anybody out there know how to get hold of Bob Coker or is anyone out there who is willing to work on this machine?

    #654 11 months ago

    My wife have been looking for 10 foot model but the price is over 3k range. I don't look everyday but if someone know of a good deal here in Northeast area please let me know.

    #655 11 months ago
    Quoted from hawkeyexx:

    My wife have been looking for 10 foot model but the price is over 3k range. I don't look everyday but if someone know of a good deal here in Northeast area please let me know.

    Not sure if you want shuffle or skee...but this caught my eye. 13ft tho.
    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1293236527745074/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A5c8ae40c-6406-485c-a48b-3931a50347b1

    #656 11 months ago

    Thanks for sharing I'm not sure if I can handle 13 feet long in basement

    1 month later
    #657 9 months ago

    Hey guys!
    I have 3 skeeballs from the 1970s im working on.
    They have been painted green at some point awhile back.

    I DO plan to re cork but in the interest of time and money id like to have one up and running while i work on the rest (stripping the cork is such a battle. Have like, 10 hours in one right now).

    My one lane is decent enough. Has a quarter size hole of cork missing at the end and thats it.

    I am thinking of using silicone and putting a scrap piece into that hole from my lane im stripping.

    I want to paint the lane as well.

    Can you recommend a paint TYPE to use that will hold up like what is on here?

    It doesnt need to hold up for a year, just a few months until I'm done corking the others. Then I'll swap this one into the shop and strip it down.

    Thanks!!

    #658 9 months ago
    Quoted from emk101:

    It doesnt need to hold up for a year, just a few months until I'm done corking the others. Then I'll swap this one into the shop and strip it down.

    If down the road you're going to strip it, why paint it?
    Just a little heads up. Other glues (such as glue for vinyl flooring)
    can be troweled on the beginning, but be sure to use contact cement
    a foot or so before and going up the ramp. Anything thicker will cause
    the ball to launch more flatly..
    I'm thinking it's the mechanical Skee-Balls you have.
    By any chance you live on the East Coast and would maybe like to trade
    one, I might have interest.

    1 month later
    #659 8 months ago

    Hi all! Has anyone used a modern ball release for their early 90’s Skeeball machine
    (Model S)? I know it should have a big arm that teeter totters. Mine is missing most of the parts for the ball release. I’m not trying to do a perfect restore just would like to have the balls roll down when you hit start. Saw this one on the official Skeeball parts site for a 2010 model in my head it seems like it would work lol. Thanks!

    BB2FED39-8CEA-44DC-BE3E-3816C2BA6888 (resized).jpeg
    #660 8 months ago
    Quoted from phillymadison:

    Hi all! Has anyone used a modern ball release for their early 90’s Skeeball machine
    (Model S)? I know it should have a big arm that teeter totters. Mine is missing most of the parts for the ball release. I’m not trying to do a perfect restore just would like to have the balls roll down when you hit start. Saw this one on the official Skeeball parts site for a 2010 model in my head it seems like it would work lol. Thanks!
    [quoted image]

    Should work fine. the rocker arm is to only advance 9 balls while actually loading more balls into the machine.
    This allows faster games to be played without waiting for 9 balls to return.

    #661 8 months ago
    Quoted from Morinack:

    Should work fine. the rocker arm is to only advance 9 balls while actually loading more balls into the machine.
    This allows faster games to be played without waiting for 9 balls to return.

    Cool I didn’t know that and thanks for the response! Yea I don’t need faster ball loading. My machine is set for free play in my house for family and friends to play. And before anyone else says it… yes I know I don’t need this since it’s set to free play all the time in my house lol. Something about hearing that start up tune with the balls rolling down. Therapeutic

    1 week later
    #662 7 months ago

    So I just bought a 13' model 'S' Skee Ball cabinet w/o boards or wiring harness, am I screwed or can I buy/recreate the harness? It looks like there is a guy who recreated the boards w/LEDs for score/ball count www.kahr.us and the score switches and ball solenoid seem to be readily available. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Thanks!!

    #663 7 months ago
    Quoted from EMDude:

    So I just bought a 13' model 'S' Skee Ball cabinet w/o boards or wiring harness, am I screwed or can I buy/recreate the harness? It looks like there is a guy who recreated the boards w/LEDs for score/ball count www.kahr.us and the score switches and ball solenoid seem to be readily available. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Thanks!!

    Depends on how much you are ready to sink into it.
    The harness would not be a terrible effort to rebuild.
    Do you have the controller unit in the head or is the head an empty shell?
    Does it at least have the balls?
    Are the switches there?
    Ball advance rocker arm and solenoid?

    The display board is one piece but there are parts it mounts to.
    If you remove the marquee and take a photo it would tell a lot.

    1 week later
    #664 7 months ago

    I just got into the hobby when I picked up a Williams Triple Strike bowler that was being given away locally on Facebook earlier this week (so I'm as green as they come). The person getting rid of it just bought their house and it was left in the basement - meaning I have not history or paperwork. I found this thread while searching the forums and cooperscooter's post (#578 in this thread) come up in my search results.

    Unfortunately, the machine does not run, but that just gets me excited to get it up and running - I have small kids so I'm not looking to fully restore it, though I may do that in the future. As you can see in the pictures it's not in the best shape, but it's not bad either. One of the circuit boards has what looks like damage from a leaking battery.

    I don't want to start tearing into the game until the manual I ordered from The Pinball Resource gets in and I can inventory what is there.

    Anyway - I'm excited to get this project running and look forward to learning all about the hobby!

    1001212230 (resized).jpg1001212231 (resized).jpg1001212231a (resized).jpg1001212231b (resized).jpg1001212231c (resized).jpg1001212232a (resized).jpg

    #665 7 months ago
    Quoted from JTAntikythera:

    As you can see in the pictures it's not in the best shape, but it's not bad either. One of the circuit boards has what looks like damage from a leaking battery.

    Take those batteries out now, even if you are waiting on the manual. They only help retain settings and high scores.
    Feel free to hit us up with any questions.

    Welcome and good luck

    #666 7 months ago
    Quoted from Morinack:

    Take those batteries out now, even if you are waiting on the manual. They only help retain settings and high scores.
    Feel free to hit us up with any questions.
    Welcome and good luck

    Done!

    I took the batteries out as soon as I saw your post. Fortunately, the batteries I removed had no signs of leakage, so I'm hoping that it a sign that the game was still working after the damage was done.

    Thank you for the warm welcome.

    #667 7 months ago

    Before I get into too much detail, would it be inappropriate for me to start a thread on the Restoration forum since it is not a pin and I do not plan on restoring this to like new condition at this point?

    Now onto the fun stuff!

    I got my manual yesterday started digging into the literature last night. During my review I learned a few things:
    1) This is going to be a really cool and rewarding learning experience for me and my kids!
    2) The power supply assembly drawing is not what is in my machine. Based on what I gather from pinwiki, my power supply board is an earlier version so I just downloaded the drawing and schematic available on pinwiki.
    3) The CPU is a system 6.
    4) The Sound board does not appear to be quite what is in my game, but I will worry about that later.

    I'll probably be giving more detail than needed, but I'm new to this and I want to make sure I can go back and see what I did and why.

    This morning my son (he's 9) and I decided to take our first crack at this.

    Upon powering up the machine the display lights came on as did the florescent light over the pins. None of the scoring boards or lights came on and the pins did not come down. On the CPU board both diagnostic LEDs lit up and stayed lit. The logic diagram indicates a CMOS RAM (IC19) failure.

    With that in mind, I decided to start simple and test the power inputs on the power supply assembly (labeled 3J1 on the drawings). Unfortunately the power supply board schematics for the early version of the power supply board do not indicate the voltage that should be at each pin, so I just used the later power supply schematic on pinwiki. My results were as follows:

    Connector ID-PIN(schematic voltage): my voltage
    3J1-1 (+18v +-2V): 22.8v
    3J1-2 (+28v): 6.03v
    3J1-3 (+28v): 6.03v
    3J1-4 (90vac): 58.37v
    3J1-5 (not used)
    3J1-6 (nc)
    3J1-7 (not used)
    3J1-8 (not used)
    3J1-9 (90vac): 18.8v
    3J1-10 (9.30vac): 10.5v
    3J1-11 (9.30vac): 10.6v
    3J1-12 (ground)

    Did I jump the gun by testing the pins on the power input connector (3J1)? If not, what are the possible reasons for my voltages being low on pins 1,2,3,4 & 9?

    #668 7 months ago

    1. You can create a thread under restoration of you like. Restore to operation is still something. Your call.

    2. Pins don't usually reset until a game is started on most SAs.

    3. CMOS error is 99% likely b/c no batteries. It gets flagged as a failure.

    I don't own this machine or have a schematic so cannot really comment on the rest.

    #669 7 months ago
    Quoted from Morinack:

    1. You can create a thread under restoration of you like. Restore to operation is still something. Your call.
    2. Pins don't usually reset until a game is started on most SAs.
    3. CMOS error is 99% likely b/c no batteries. It gets flagged as a failure.
    I don't own this machine or have a schematic so cannot really comment on the rest.

    I created a thread in restoration - I reread the forum rules and I don't think I'm running afoul of them.

    #670 7 months ago

    Just finished refurbishing an Ice Ball. I like how it turned out. The pink paint is florescent, so it glows with black light. The electric guts are still the same, but I replaced some parts, painted, new decals, etc and I think it looks pretty good. Before and after pics.

    20200524_140106 (resized).jpg20211009_192035 (resized).jpg
    #671 7 months ago
    Quoted from KingBW:

    Just finished refurbishing an Ice Ball. I like how it turned out. The pink paint is florescent, so it glows with black light. The electric guts are still the same, but I replaced some parts, painted, new decals, etc and I think it looks pretty good. Before and after pics.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Well played! I like!

    #672 7 months ago
    Quoted from Morinack:

    Depends on how much you are ready to sink into it.
    The harness would not be a terrible effort to rebuild.
    Do you have the controller unit in the head or is the head an empty shell?
    Does it at least have the balls?
    Are the switches there?
    Ball advance rocker arm and solenoid?
    The display board is one piece but there are parts it mounts to.
    If you remove the marquee and take a photo it would tell a lot.

    Quoted from Morinack:

    Depends on how much you are ready to sink into it.
    The harness would not be a terrible effort to rebuild.
    Do you have the controller unit in the head or is the head an empty shell?
    Does it at least have the balls?
    Are the switches there?
    Ball advance rocker arm and solenoid?
    The display board is one piece but there are parts it mounts to.
    If you remove the marquee and take a photo it would tell a lot.

    Thanks! Okay, now that I've hauled it home here's what I got.

    - Empty shell, no electronics, score panel or translite BUT I've already found and bought all three!
    - Wiring harness is indeed in-tact.
    - No balls included, but the plastic replacements appear to be readily available
    - All but one switch is there
    - No solenoid, but again they're available
    - Ball release assy is there except for the rocker arm itself...anybody have one they would sell me?
    - Attached are some photos

    IMG_7959 (resized).jpgIMG_7961 (resized).jpgIMG_7962 (resized).jpgIMG_7964 (resized).jpgIMG_7970 (resized).jpgIMG_7971 (resized).jpgIMG_7972 (resized).jpgIMG_7973 (resized).jpgIMG_7974 (resized).jpg
    #673 7 months ago
    Quoted from EMDude:

    Thanks! Okay, now that I've hauled it home here's what I got.
    - Empty shell, no electronics, score panel or translite BUT I've already found and bought all three!
    - Wiring harness is indeed in-tact.
    - No balls included, but the plastic replacements appear to be readily available
    - All but one switch is there
    - No solenoid, but again they're available
    - Ball release assy is there except for the rocker arm itself...anybody have one they would sell me?
    - Attached are some photos

    Yeah that is pretty stripped out.
    The T trough suggests it has 100 pt holes
    How is the ring ramp? and the sand bags?
    Is the coin mech working?

    So you'll be looking for;

    - Main controller
    - Light shield (display mounts on it)
    - score display (and baffle if you do not go with the Kahr replacement)
    - ball count display (and baffle if not included)
    - marquee (if you don't have one)
    - light sockets
    - topper (if you want one)
    - rocker arm
    - ball release solenoid
    - balls
    - maybe some new switches

    LMK if you need some sources.

    Skeeball Model S.pdf
    3 weeks later
    #674 6 months ago

    Found a Iceball forsale and I'm wondering if anyone knows if these are reliable machines? Anything I should check before purchasing?

    #675 6 months ago
    Quoted from hawkeyexx:

    Found a Iceball forsale and I'm wondering if anyone knows if these are reliable machines? Anything I should check before purchasing?

    I have had mine for a couple of years with zero issues. It gets a ton of plays at parties and never misses a beat.

    #676 6 months ago
    Quoted from SNES:

    I have had mine for a couple of years with zero issues. It gets a ton of plays at parties and never misses a beat.

    Thanks for your input

    #677 6 months ago

    Glad to find this club! I have a Skee Ball Too in hideous pink. Got it at an auction in 2013 for $600. Other than replacing one switch it has been very reliable.

    It does have a halogen light in the backbox, aimed down at the target, that has never worked. I have no idea what it is for. The target area is already illuminated -- maybe it's a flash that goes with the doubling feature? The manual doesn't say anything about it.

    I need to pull the target assembly and re-do the score stickers, too. They are printed on laser printer sticker sheet, but I can make proper ones with a vinyl cutter nowadays.

    skee ball too (resized).png
    #678 6 months ago

    That Skee Ball Too is pretty cool! I've never seen one like that, looks really cool. I'm guessing late 80's early 90's by the artwork style? Has anyone had a perfect game on it yet?

    #679 6 months ago

    I'm honestly not sure when it was made. Surprisingly the manual has a date of Nov 2005, but I am sure the games were in production long before that. I haven't ever dug around in the backbox to see anything with a date printed on it.

    When I got it in 2013... I guess looked like it could have been made in the early 2000s. It was clearly used, but not totally beat up.

    I don't think we have had a perfect game yet, maybe 8 of 9 balls? You have to factor in the doubling too, makes it a little harder. I like that feature.

    (I actually did not play this game for a long time because I had a dog that would go $#^&# BANANAS whenever we played... he wanted to chase and kill those balls so bad. If you held him he'd cry and squirm and his heart pounded like he was going to die. You had to put him in another room where he couldn't hear the game!)

    #680 6 months ago
    Quoted from hawkeyexx:

    Found a Iceball forsale and I'm wondering if anyone knows if these are reliable machines? Anything I should check before purchasing?

    Probably not the best to advise on Ice Ball as I have a Model S Skee. You should play it if you can, the ball advance is typically the main problem area for games. I think Ice Ball uses ball sensors instead of advancing 9 balls, but I could be wrong. Other than lighting there is not much to it. Look for cracks or physical damage to the targets and the troughs underneath. Target field should just lift up and out. Nets can be hard to replace if they are missing.
    Good luck with the purchase.

    #681 6 months ago
    Quoted from Morinack:

    Probably not the best to advise on Ice Ball as I have a Model S Skee. You should play it if you can, the ball advance is typically the main problem area for games. I think Ice Ball uses ball sensors instead of advancing 9 balls, but I could be wrong. Other than lighting there is not much to it. Look for cracks or physical damage to the targets and the troughs underneath. Target field should just lift up and out. Nets can be hard to replace if they are missing.
    Good luck with the purchase.

    Thank you for your advice. I hope to look at it this weekend. The seller is asking 1100.

    #682 6 months ago

    Have a chance to pick up a Williams Shuffle Inn.

    I assume the head (back piece) comes off, leaving alley/coin door and head. I was looking for pictures in the club and didn’t see any pics of a bowler separated.

    All I have is the flyer dimensions of 104” long, 27” wide and 71” tall.

    Does anyone have some disassembled dimensions?

    #683 6 months ago
    Quoted from Stebel:

    Have a chance to pick up a Williams Shuffle Inn.
    I assume the head (back piece) comes off, leaving alley/coin door and head. I was looking for pictures in the club and didn’t see any pics of a bowler separated.
    All I have is the flyer dimensions of 104” long, 27” wide and 71” tall.
    Does anyone have some disassembled dimensions?

    Head comes off, pin bank comes off, lower trapezoidal base comes off, and alley is then free by itself. One person can move one by himself if sufficiently motivated, but 2 people are better. Of course, disconnect wires at each step.

    #684 6 months ago
    Quoted from sbmania:

    Head comes off, pin bank comes off, lower trapezoidal base comes off, and alley is then free by itself. One person can move one by himself if sufficiently motivated, but 2 people are better. Of course, disconnect wires at each step.

    Thank you. I will be going to get it then!

    #685 6 months ago

    anyone try to repair the yellow plastic covers for skeeball? I have one that has a chunk missing and trying to figure out a good solution to fix it. Also will be repainting the whole thing so will need to color match the paint.

    #686 6 months ago

    I've thought about how to fix those things and I am stumped. Mine are doing pretty OK but even so I have a couple of cracked corners I'd like to repair.

    #687 6 months ago

    I purchased some auto body bondo for just that reason but have not pursued the fix. Maybe a good winter project.

    #688 6 months ago
    Quoted from Morinack:

    I purchased some auto body bondo for just that reason but have not pursued the fix. Maybe a good winter project.

    I tried that but when moving it around the plastic flexes too much and it cracks, looking at trying to cut the hole square instead of jagged edges and finding plastic of the same thickness and using a epoxy to glue in a replacement part similar to how one would fix a hole in drywall. Then fill the small gaps, prime and paint. Just gotta get the exact thickness of the plastic to get a close match, also not sure of the type of plastic it is as plexi is too rigid.

    #689 6 months ago

    Keeping my eye out for an original skee ball. Preferably with the mechanical scoring though not 100% mandatory. So if I am in the right track here I think I am seeking a model s. What is the going price for a complete probably not completely working game? Just a range is all I am hoping for here. I understand theee are lots of variables. Ty

    #690 6 months ago
    Quoted from Stebel:

    Thank you. I will be going to get it then!

    Nice, I bought a shuffle inn a couple years ago and it’s a lot of fun. Shuffle alleys do break down quite a bit to help moving.

    #691 6 months ago
    Quoted from jgreene:

    Nice, I bought a shuffle inn a couple years ago and it’s a lot of fun. Shuffle alleys do break down quite a bit to help moving.

    It was way rougher than I anticipated. It broke down really easily. 5 pieces in total. I will probably part it out, and hunt for a Strike Master or League Champ.

    It would be pretty awesome to make a V-Shuffle with all the electronic games. LCD in the head. They all use the same pin setup from what I see.

    #692 6 months ago
    Quoted from GPS:

    Keeping my eye out for an original skee ball. Preferably with the mechanical scoring though not 100% mandatory. So if I am in the right track here I think I am seeking a model s. What is the going price for a complete probably not completely working game? Just a range is all I am hoping for here. I understand theee are lots of variables. Ty

    The mechanical flip number games were on the original Philadelphia Toboggan Skee Ball machines.
    Good luck trying to track one of them down, they seem to get parted out quickly on ePay.

    I find that everywhere from Ohio and to the east is where the bulk of skees are found.
    You can search all of craigslist depending on how far you want to travel to get it. https://www.searchcraigslist.org/
    I got lucky that someone near me had the 13 foot Model S I was looking for. I was searching for a couple years.
    They tend to go quickly and depending upon what parts are missing and general condition prices can vary from $400-$2000.
    You just need to decide what it is worth to you.
    The correct balls will set you back if not there.

    #693 6 months ago

    My Skee Ball Too uses optical switches and I have heard that they don't work well with every kind of ball.

    My original brown balls are kind of beat up so I would like to replace them... can anyone vouch for any of the replacements out there these days? Do I need to stick with boring old brown, or can I get something more colorful?

    1 week later
    #694 5 months ago

    I found this Model S locally a few days ago in Lancaster, PA and ended up paying 2600 for it. Everything is going up in price just like pins. This one is in pretty decent shape but needed switches replaced and just a little cleanup. The only thing I can see it missing was the front cage, coin mech and the coin plate since it was converted to a free play button…It had the 9 original wooden balls but one is the slightest bit smaller so I’ll need to find a ball somewhere except eBay. My only issue I’ve found is the final switch counter sometimes double hits counting two balls. I feel like I need a way to slow the ball down before making the turn into the trough

    19874E7A-8B38-40C7-B976-7604866E91F2 (resized).jpeg

    #695 5 months ago

    Figured the scoring out. Whatever arcade owned this prior to home use bent the ball counter bracket on a 45 and mounted it on the wrong side of the trough ‍♂️ I heated the bracket up and bent it back to 90° and mounted it under the yellow cover

    #696 5 months ago

    Whoever had this in an arcade instead of reading the instructions saying to remove this bracket and install it in the trough decided to just bend it 45°. Idiots. I heated it up, bent it back to a 90° and mounted it properly. Now my score/ball counting works properly. I had this issue for a few weeks and couldn’t figure it out until someone posted a photo on here of a machine they bought and it clicked. Success! Thanks to whoever posted that photo!

    6C6A9509-FD8F-4D55-9DC3-16A5E0B2D762 (resized).jpeg

    #697 5 months ago
    Quoted from Trooper11040:

    Whoever had this in an arcade instead of reading the instructions saying to remove this bracket and install it in the trough decided to just bend it 45°. Idiots. I heated it up, bent it back to a 90° and mounted it properly. Now my score/ball counting works properly. I had this issue for a few weeks and couldn’t figure it out until someone posted a photo on here of a machine they bought and it clicked. Success! Thanks to whoever posted that photo!
    [quoted image]

    Thats the shipping position. In the manual they tell you to remove it and mount it in the return lane once the lane is connected to the head. It can also get bashed by 0 point balls in that location since its in the playing field.

    #698 5 months ago
    Quoted from gutz:

    Thats the shipping position. In the manual they tell you to remove it and mount it in the return lane once the lane is connected to the head. It can also get bashed by 0 point balls in that location since its in the playing field.

    Oh I know. It was probably like this for 30 plus years lol

    #699 5 months ago

    Just picked up two Williams gold mines (non working, one is supposedly complete) to add to my shuffle inn. At this point, I’ve decided I want to collect 6 Williams shuffles and place them side by side - league champs, strikemaster, alley cats, and top dawg still to come. Don’t ask why, I have no answer. Loving the way it looks so far.

    If anyone is looking to free up some space in north jersey area please let me know.

    9DC217F2-3918-4710-A674-84CC3D6B79CC (resized).jpeg
    #700 5 months ago
    Quoted from PochuckValley:

    Just picked up two Williams gold mines (non working, one is supposedly complete) to add to my shuffle inn. At this point, I’ve decided I want to collect 6 Williams shuffles and place them side by side - league champs, strikemaster, alley cats, and top dawg still to come. Don’t ask why, I have no answer. Loving the way it looks so far.
    If anyone is looking to free up some space in north jersey area please let me know.
    [quoted image]

    Will you be starting up a Shuffle league? That could be fun.

    There are 766 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 16.

    Reply

    Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

    Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

    Donate to Pinside

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, become a Pinside+ member!