Count me in! I just wrapped the final touches on a Williams United Triple Strike we hauled out of a barn in Clifton, VA. I don't have the latest pic, which has updated veneers on the side rails - that was the last step along with new back, front, and side rail rubbers. This game has been an unusual hit in the home arcade, not just with the family, but with our small boy cat - he comes running whenever he hears it fire up, and all he wants to do is track the puck.
The entire job is a testament to what I can do in COVID when I know something will take hours of monotonous work, as this rig had been sitting dormant in my project pile. First order was the rewiring of the alley as the original harness was cut up in at least two places. A few beers, some tunes on the radio, and lots of splicing and crimping and testing, and that hard work was done. From there, I decided to cannibalize my old Williams Comet gas displays for the four bad displays in the bowler, and that went fairly well - lots of desoldering and fine soldering work, removal of old tape, and the like, and now all six players work.
The original CPU, a System 6, still works, but the 40 pin connector was riddled with corrosion and driving me nuts, and the driver board needed work, so, an Alltek MPU was the fix while I restore the original boards for backup or sale. Alltek's test routine for the bowler doesn't work, but some experimentation showed me that when in Firepower game config, I can reasonably test the game out for switches and lights and the like. Alltek never replied to my email for support...
I had to wash the pin assembly with soap and water - DO NOT do this if you're not confident you can dry it well and be sure not to destroy any wood features. I used an air compressor to go behind and get out any water. I also made the TNT Amusement "fix" on the pin reset relay - I have two shots of the switch and relay at the end. Once we had it running and played it a lot, the relay piston became lightly magnetized, which is a known issue (but not known to me) so multiple annoying pin resets started to occur. Tuning the switches helped only a little - the fix was the thin piece of manilla paper in the relay to buffer the EMF from causing the piston to get magnetized again. 100s of games later, that seems to work.
Removing and replacing the rail veneers along with the rubbers was last, as the rubbers are easy, but woodworking is not my gig. I ended up buying a roll of walnut veneer from the Woodcraft store by me, along with a hard veneer roller, and a razor veneer trimmer. It went fairly well, as we used a large spackle knife and heat gun to get the old veneers off (in mostly a single shot a side!), and then we used an orbital sander to clean the old rail glue off. The old veneers were split, cracked, smacked up, and worse. The new walnut ones went down exactly as cut, and I used some very light sanding on the edges to roll them off. Five coats of water based poly and wet sanding between coats, and then now glow and will tolerate a drink being placed on them.
IMG_5579 (resized).jpgIMG_5201 (resized).jpgIMG_5535 (resized).jpgIMG_5559 (resized).jpgIMG_5560 (resized).jpgIMG_5564 (resized).jpgIMG_5576 (resized).jpgIMG_5921 (resized).jpgIMG_5922 (resized).jpgIMG_5923 (resized).jpgIMG_5924 (resized).jpg