Quoted from AntennaMan:what's the trick to getting more slack on the underside power switch, so I can replace it?
I only work on the EMs, but that switch doesn't go up through the hole, or even if it
does, it goes up in where you can't get to it?
It'll be a little tough to extend the wires from there, but I've done it to what I believe
was tighter places..
Quoted from Mopar:I only work on the EMs, but that switch doesn't go up through the hole, or even if it
does, it goes up in where you can't get to it?
It'll be a little tough to extend the wires from there, but I've done it to what I believe
was tighter places..
It will go inside. I had it up there and almost didn't get it back. I took the coin box off assuming there was access that way. Then off came the legs. Finally the piece of fiber board on the underside. Nothing, Nadda. The switch appears to be in a sealed wooden box, for no other reason to make it hard to get to this switch.
Hey guys, I just picked up a 13' model S a few weeks ago and I'm loving it so far. The only thing I'm a bit annoyed by is that it doesn't have an on/off switch, but instead needs to be plugged and unplugged for power. Anyone ever add a power switch to one of these? I'm a novice with electrical work and I want to make sure it'll be safe to do.
I was thinking of doing that, at least as a temporary solution until I get around to wiring in a switch. I still have some cleaning to do and I have to get the ball release solenoid working, so it's not high priority right now. Thanks!
Quoted from pacman11:What’s the value on this old ski-ball machine?
That has the Rolling Barrel at the top? I think made by Square Amusements maybe.
Years back, I restored one for a collector. I'm not sure what he sold it for, but I'm thinking
around $3,000.00 or maybe a little more..
I'd pick it up if the price is okay..
Square Amusements Roll-A-Ball is very similar but also different.
http://www.pinrepair.com/bowl/rollaba.htm
I used to have a 1946 Premier Barrel Roll that I bought cheap. Sold it to well known collector, he did a nice restore (with some creative license), sold it to another guy and now is on Ebay for crazy money. 
Wish I'd have kept it now.
Quoted from Slips:Looking to join the club! Might pick up a Fab u Ball Aladdins Castle from a guy I know. He’s asking $700. Is this close to what’s its worth? I’ve never shopped for a Skee Ball machine before.
Yeah me neither, that's why I posted a picture of the one I am going to be picking up. Do you have a picture of it you could post?
Quoted from pacman11:Yeah me neither, that's why I posted a picture of the one I am going to be picking up. Do you have a picture of it you could post?
Only one I have right now. He lives right by me and I might go see it tomorrow.
B9B5548C-710F-44DA-80B8-D4B773A1DA3D (resized).jpegQuoted from Slips:He lives right by me and I might go see it tomorrow.
I'm into the more vintage machines, but if it works, it has to be worth all of that..
Quoted from Slips:Only one I have right now. He lives right by me and I might go see it tomorrow.
[quoted image]
Looks like Skee-Ball Model H or thereabouts. I'd say it is worth it also.
Quoted from dawgs:My custom painted Skee Ball lightning. When we have guests this gets played more than anything else. Go Dawgs!
Seriously looks better than it ever did in the arcade. Nice work.
Quoted from dawgs:My custom painted Skee Ball lightning. When we have guests this gets played more than anything else. Go Dawgs!
[quoted image]
Yeah that ski ball game looks sweet! Nice job with the paint and LEDs..
I know this is a long shot, but does anyone have the lane only to a 13 foot classic skee-ball? I have a working 10 foot model H (that or an S), but would love to upgrade to a 13. As far as I understand, the only difference between the two is the lane; not the body itself. So, if someone has a parts machine and would sell OR be interested in trading for my 10 foot lane, let me know!
Quoted from Slips:Only one I have right now. He lives right by me and I might go see it tomorrow.
[quoted image]
Easily worth it! Super cool that it has the Aladdin's Castle marquee too.
Selling my Williams Strike Master shuffle bowler. Located in Monmouth County NJ.
See ad on Marketplace
Quoted from eharan:Selling my Williams Strike Master shuffle bowler. Located in Monmouth County NJ.
See ad on MarketplaceOther - For Sale
Williams Strike Master
New!
“Williams Strike Master Shuffle Bowling machine.
This is a fun shuffle bowling game that the whole family will enjoy. Up to 6 players can play at one time.
Strike Master includes ...”
2 days ago
Tinton Falls, NJ
1,200 (OBO)
eharan
Nice price, wish you were nearby. I'd love to get one of the later SS or DMD bowlers but they're incredibly scarce around my part of the country.
Does anyone on here have any leads on where I may find a bottle pin or a set of bottle pins for a Williams alley cats? If I can just get one pin I can get these reproduced! I can’t seem to find any sources.... anyway here is a picture of my alley cats in my living room.
C0BB43F5-1FCF-4BE6-B7EB-F905CA025329 (resized).jpegAnyone on here have access to a manual for a 90s Lazer-Tron Lazer Ball skeeball machine. I have never seen one until this popped up a few years ago I got it running but I would like more info on it.
2821B4DD-D5DC-4E4E-9E02-2A9DF1B6231D (resized).jpeg65B7749F-C5BA-4794-A6DB-4D269D778F03 (resized).jpeg09C7B773-26C9-4B5C-88C7-657FAEC3F2AA (resized).jpegCount me in! I just wrapped the final touches on a Williams United Triple Strike we hauled out of a barn in Clifton, VA. I don't have the latest pic, which has updated veneers on the side rails - that was the last step along with new back, front, and side rail rubbers. This game has been an unusual hit in the home arcade, not just with the family, but with our small boy cat - he comes running whenever he hears it fire up, and all he wants to do is track the puck.
The entire job is a testament to what I can do in COVID when I know something will take hours of monotonous work, as this rig had been sitting dormant in my project pile. First order was the rewiring of the alley as the original harness was cut up in at least two places. A few beers, some tunes on the radio, and lots of splicing and crimping and testing, and that hard work was done. From there, I decided to cannibalize my old Williams Comet gas displays for the four bad displays in the bowler, and that went fairly well - lots of desoldering and fine soldering work, removal of old tape, and the like, and now all six players work.
The original CPU, a System 6, still works, but the 40 pin connector was riddled with corrosion and driving me nuts, and the driver board needed work, so, an Alltek MPU was the fix while I restore the original boards for backup or sale. Alltek's test routine for the bowler doesn't work, but some experimentation showed me that when in Firepower game config, I can reasonably test the game out for switches and lights and the like. Alltek never replied to my email for support...
I had to wash the pin assembly with soap and water - DO NOT do this if you're not confident you can dry it well and be sure not to destroy any wood features. I used an air compressor to go behind and get out any water. I also made the TNT Amusement "fix" on the pin reset relay - I have two shots of the switch and relay at the end. Once we had it running and played it a lot, the relay piston became lightly magnetized, which is a known issue (but not known to me) so multiple annoying pin resets started to occur. Tuning the switches helped only a little - the fix was the thin piece of manilla paper in the relay to buffer the EMF from causing the piston to get magnetized again. 100s of games later, that seems to work.
Removing and replacing the rail veneers along with the rubbers was last, as the rubbers are easy, but woodworking is not my gig. I ended up buying a roll of walnut veneer from the Woodcraft store by me, along with a hard veneer roller, and a razor veneer trimmer. It went fairly well, as we used a large spackle knife and heat gun to get the old veneers off (in mostly a single shot a side!), and then we used an orbital sander to clean the old rail glue off. The old veneers were split, cracked, smacked up, and worse. The new walnut ones went down exactly as cut, and I used some very light sanding on the edges to roll them off. Five coats of water based poly and wet sanding between coats, and then now glow and will tolerate a drink being placed on them.
IMG_5579 (resized).jpgIMG_5201 (resized).jpgIMG_5535 (resized).jpgIMG_5559 (resized).jpgIMG_5560 (resized).jpgIMG_5564 (resized).jpgIMG_5576 (resized).jpgIMG_5921 (resized).jpgIMG_5922 (resized).jpgIMG_5923 (resized).jpgIMG_5924 (resized).jpgQuoted from Ronnie1114:Another one joins the herd! This was sitting in a parking lot as I was driving for work yesterday. Gotta love it
You're kidding me!
Surely worth a little tartiness, but were you able to
make it to work in time?
Quoted from Mopar:You're kidding me!
Surely worth a little tartiness, but were you able to
make it to work in time?
Managed to do it during lunch 
I'm in! I've had a United Nugget for a few years now. And just picked up a couple 13' Skee ball's (model S). The wife never liked the shuffle alley (which gets a lot of play) and always would say sell that thing and get Skee Ball.
Looking for a specific part for a Modal S classic skee-ball. No idea what they're called, but it's the red (I think they're red?) "stopper" or "ball-slower-downers" that are on the 10 and 20 point white rings. There are 3 on the 10 point and 1 on the 20 point rings; you can kinda see them in DMRK's photo (above). Found a 13 foot model, that I was searching for, kinda in "barn find" condition. These parts look like they almost melted on this unit, I think they're made of wax? These are the only parts I need to replace. Tried searching a bit for them, but no idea what they're even called to search for them.
Well, to answer my own question, I was looking for: "ring deflector bumpers". If anyone else is looking for them, I ended up ordering a reproduction set off ebay. Not surprised originals aren't available.
I'm thinking about getting skeeball for my home.
I'm leaning towards one of the newer ones, so I'm looking at Iceball Fx or the Skeeball glow.
Any advice here on which one is better? How much do they go for used?
Hey fellow Pinsiders - I just launched a Kickstarter for a new version of my Skee Display boards - check it out: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kahr-us-circuits/skee-ball-displays-redesigned-again . My original version will continue to be available since it so closely replicates the original look, but now this version will also be available for anyone who would prefer a more modernized look or that just doesn't have one of the original light baffles.
-Rob
-visit https://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard or my replacement LED display boards for model H & model S Skee Ball
I need some help with my Iceball FX. Just some simple stuff with settings, but I'm new to skeeball and don't have a clue.
Could someone who is familiar with these message me and I'll share my contact info to have a quick conversation.
Added over 3 years ago:I got it figured out. Posting this in case anyone else has this issue.
My game's program options/settings only went to 11 and were labeled differently than the sticker printed inside the cabinet, which showed 20 something program options.
All the manuals online showed 20 something As well and nothing was matching up.
Luckily, I found a printed manual in the cabinet and that has the correctly labeled 11 options for my settings and I was able to get it set up the way I wanted.
I've long been in the club with a Comet Shuffle Targette, Dixie Ball bowler, and multiple shuffle alleys over the years, but I just picked up 2 Skeeball Model H games. From my research so far, it looks like these were ordered with a pre-programed "winner" point value and it wasn't until Model S that you could change the "winner" point value on your own. Does anyone have the rom image for the Model H with the 100 point score holes? Anyone already know how and what to change in the code so you can burn a new rom with a different "winner" point value? The "winner" point value programed on the rom determines when the winner beacon light goes off and the winner tune is played. Both of these are programed at 50 points..... don't really need to hear that on every single game played...... 
I'd like to have it programed for 300 points at the moment. As far as I know, it was able to be ordered with a programed amount from 0 to 450.
Thoughts and info are appreciated.
Thanks!
Quoted from Pin-up:I've long been in the club with a Comet Shuffle Targette, Dixie Ball bowler, and multiple shuffle alleys over the years, but I just picked up 2 Skeeball Model H games. From my research so far, it looks like these were ordered with a pre-programed "winner" point value and it wasn't until Model S that you could change the "winner" point value on your own. Does anyone have the rom image for the Model H with the 100 point score holes? Anyone already know how and what to change in the code so you can burn a new rom with a different "winner" point value? The "winner" point value programed on the rom determines when the winner beacon light goes off and the winner tune is played. Both of these are programed at 50 points..... don't really need to hear that on every single game played...... I'd like to have it programed for 300 points at the moment. As far as I know, it was able to be ordered with a programed amount from 0 to 450.
Thoughts and info are appreciated.
Thanks!
Also, mine are both missing the 3/4 light piece that are mounted by rivits just above the led score display that light up for game over ect. If you have that part with the harness plug, that would be great too.
Thanks!
Quoted from Pin-up:I've long been in the club with a Comet Shuffle Targette, Dixie Ball bowler, and multiple shuffle alleys over the years, but I just picked up 2 Skeeball Model H games.
How are the mini bulb displays boards and baffle plastics? You may want check out my new kickstarter ( https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kahr-us-circuits/skee-ball-displays-redesigned-again ) or my existing LED display boards product.
-Rob
-visit https://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard or my replacement LED display boards for model H & model S Skee Ball
From over in the project pin thread, there are 2 Skee Ball machines in NJ for $800 each:
-Rob
-New product alert: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kahr-us-circuits/skee-ball-displays-redesigned-again
I have Rob's original Kickstarter display boards and they are awesome! I've already backed this one as well even though I don't have a second machine for them. He makes terrific stuff.
Quoted from rkahr:Hey fellow Pinsiders - I just launched a Kickstarter for a new version of my Skee Display boards - check it out: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kahr-us-circuits/skee-ball-displays-redesigned-again . My original version will continue to be available since it so closely replicates the original look, but now this version will also be available for anyone who would prefer a more modernized look or that just doesn't have one of the original light baffles.
-Rob
-visit https://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard or my replacement LED display boards for model H & model S Skee Ball
Quoted from rkahr:How are the mini bulb displays boards and baffle plastics? You may want check out my new kickstarter ( https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kahr-us-circuits/skee-ball-displays-redesigned-again ) or my existing LED display boards product.
-Rob
-visit https://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard or my replacement LED display boards for model H & model S Skee Ball
I don't have the mini bulb boards. These machines both have the LED digit displays for the score and ball count. No need to replace those. For whatever reason though, someone removed the light baffle that holds 3 or 4 lights just above the LED score display. It should have been a metal piece that was originally riveted to the same frame as the score display is mounted too. I'm sure I could make one out of wood and attach it and mount bulb holders in there, but that just seems like a lot of unnecessary work.
I just picked up this Williams/United Orion Shuffle Alley. It has a manufacture date of Feb 7, 1968. There is a piece missing that goes between the front metal play card panel and the alley. Can someone post a picture or diagram of what should be there? Better yet does anyone have the part available? I'm also in need of most of the coin acceptor parts for the coin door. The front part is set up for a dime. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Tim
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Newport, VT
