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(Topic ID: 271827)

Laguna shuffle bowling game


By Laguna

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by bssbllr
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    #1 4 months ago

    I was wondering if anybody Know anything about of United Laguna shuffle bowling game.
    My game over light is staying on and cannot be reset... Does anybody have any ideas
    Thank you
    20200610_130249 (resized).jpg

    #2 4 months ago

    Reset all the score reels back to zero and see what happens, then I'd make all the player strikes and spare units have completely reset so that the end of service switches on all of them are engaged

    1 week later
    #3 3 months ago

    I played 6 players and gave them all a Turkey
    Player 3 scored correctly
    Player 2 did not get any tens points
    Player 1 and 5 I don't know what the hell. that was Not even close to the correct score.
    Some of the wheels and gears look like they need to be oiled? What would be a good oil

    #4 3 months ago
    Quoted from Laguna:

    I played 6 players and gave them all a Turkey
    Player 3 scored correctly
    Player 2 did not get any tens points
    Player 1 and 5 I don't know what the hell. that was Not even close to the correct score.
    Some of the wheels and gears look like they need to be oiled? What would be a good oil

    You will want to remove all the congealed oil/grease and re-lubricate "Super Lube synthetic grease" is recommended.

    http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

    http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#steps

    #5 3 months ago
    Quoted from chas10e:

    You will want to remove all the congealed oil/grease and re-lubricate "Super Lube synthetic grease" is recommended.
    http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm
    http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#steps

    This. Plan on 30 minutes per score wheel.

    When your done with those, start cleaning the stepper.

    Endless fun! But so rewarding when it resets properly that first time.

    #6 3 months ago

    I agree with ronss clean all units. Take pics as you take apart. Use the grease on all metal on metal components. The grease should have a Teflon in it. Plastic on metal and plastic on plastic does not need grease. The original lube they used gets old and gums up and starts to bind mechanisms so a good cleaning and greasing will do wonders.

    #7 3 months ago
    Quoted from bssbllr:

    I agree with ronss clean all units. Take pics as you take apart. Use the grease on all metal on metal components. The grease should have a Teflon in it. Plastic on metal and plastic on plastic does not need grease. The original lube they used gets old and gums up and starts to bind mechanisms so a good cleaning and greasing will do wonders.

    Coil sleeves are designed to "run dry" any lubrication applied there would attract and capture dust and debris. same with any open brass gears in a score motor you may encounter (there is a felt pad for a minimal amount of lubrication)

    Coil sleeves are readily available and can be easily replaced if damaged

    A thin layer of Super Lube or "teflon gel" on the hub of the stepper gear is recommended.

    Step 5e. After the shaft/cog and hole is clean, put a thin layer of Teflon Lube Gel on the shaft. Install the shaft into the Stepper Unit. If a switch was swung out of the way, put it back and re-install its attachment screw.

    The above advise about taking pictures is a MUST !!! but also make note of the "clock spring" attachment points and count the number of turns as you unwind.

    #8 3 months ago
    Quoted from chas10e:

    Coil sleeves are designed to "run dry" any lubrication applied there would attract and capture dust and debris. same with any open brass gears in a score motor you may encounter (there is a felt pad for a minimal amount of lubrication)
    Coil sleeves are readily available and can be easily replaced if damaged
    A thin layer of Super Lube or "teflon gel" on the hub of the stepper gear is recommended.

    The above advise about taking pictures is a MUST !!! but also make note of the "clock spring" attachment points and count the number of turns as you unwind.

    You are correct I should have clarified that thanks for doing so. Also stated in the post about pinrepair.

    #9 3 months ago

    Finalizing plunger cleaning with Lemon Pledge can be a plus..
    Also, Ballys maybe somewhat, but United/Williams insulating spacers
    seem to have had more ability to shrink. Snugging up the switch stack
    screws before adjusting is always a plus..
    Lubing wasn't always a priority to many of the old time vendors.
    Many things function off of the Score Motor's wiper board. Checking the
    Score Motor's wiper finger rivets for extreme excessive ware is always a
    good policy..

    #10 3 months ago
    Quoted from Mopar:

    Finalizing plunger cleaning with Lemon Pledge can be a plus..
    Also, Ballys maybe somewhat, but United/Williams insulating spacers
    seem to have had more ability to shrink. Snugging up the switch stack
    screws before adjusting is always a plus..
    Lubing wasn't always a priority to many of the old time vendors.
    Many things function off of the Score Motor's wiper board. Checking the
    Score Motor's wiper finger rivets for extreme excessive ware is always a
    good policy..

    Hey mopar had a quick question off subject but I have 2 random
    Lights on the playfield on when game started like a football and touchdown light that should not be. It is on my Pitch and bat was wondering if maybe you might know a cause or areas to check. Thanks.

    #11 3 months ago
    Quoted from bssbllr:

    Lights on the playfield on when game started like a football and touchdown light that should not be.

    Frankfort's just east of Utica. I don't remember before knowing that..
    Anyways, you have the Williams football (forgot the name) P&B?
    I never had that machine, and I'm sure you checked the lights'
    corresponding relays, so maybe it has a source that it's back feeding
    from. Without the schematics, it's tough to have an idea, but if I had
    to take a shot, I'd go with a make/break switch.
    I recently had a very strange experience with a make/break on a Cowpoke.
    I'm still somewhat scratching my head. Had to finesse to solve the problem..

    #12 3 months ago
    Quoted from Mopar:

    Frankfort's just east of Utica. I don't remember before knowing that..
    Anyways, you have the Williams football (forgot the name) P&B?
    I never had that machine, and I'm sure you checked the lights'
    corresponding relays, so maybe it has a source that it's back feeding
    from. Without the schematics, it's tough to have an idea, but if I had
    to take a shot, I'd go with a make/break switch.
    I recently had a very strange experience with a make/break on a Cowpoke.
    I'm still somewhat scratching my head. Had to finesse to solve the problem..

    Yep that’s right ole upstate ny. The game is. 69’ Gridiron. The schematics for the football light shows it going to the football Unit that has a Bakelite board and the relay I found I can make the light go on and off but I believe it’s on in the position it’s suppose to be in but I will look at the schematics again. Your probably on the right track that relay may be the culprit still all new to me but following your responses on the ball bowler On another thread And impressed with your knowledge. Thanks. Also didn’t mean to hijack the thread.

    #13 3 months ago
    Quoted from bssbllr:

    The game is. 69’ Gridiron.

    That's right. Gridiron. I played one years back..
    I'm sure you had already carefully checked the front, but perhaps the backside of the Football
    Unit's wiper board. Probably not, but maybe a foreign wire stran..

    #14 3 months ago
    Quoted from Mopar:

    but maybe a foreign wire stran..

    I started thinking the same thing for the football light. ANd the touchdown light I believe will be on that relay after looking at the schematics will check in the am.

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