(Topic ID: 315438)

Shower/tile repair advice

By amxfc3s

1 year ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by amxfc3s
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    #1 1 year ago

    I have a situation on my hands and could use some help. I figure the pinball forum would be a great place for plumbing and home repair tips lol.

    The 6" pipe between my shower head and wall plumbing snapped off flush with the wall fitting. I tried to use an ez-out extractor but was unsuccessful. It kept slipping and by the time I was able to get enough torque on it the screws holding it into the stud broke and also broke the joint securing the vertical wall pipe to the adapter.

    What would be the recommended way to repair this and replace the tile that I removed? Can I do it without cutting out more of the tile and the wall behind the shower? Is a shark bite fitting acceptable here? I'm not sure I could get a good joint safely using solder and a torch. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

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    #2 1 year ago

    Hire a professional.

    #3 1 year ago

    This is not a difficult DIY, and there are scores of YouTube videos out there. The main thing is you are going to need to repair the cement board behind the tile first before you can actually replace the tile..

    #4 1 year ago

    I wouldn’t use a shark bite inside a wall. They are really convenient but I would personally never put one where I couldn’t look at it periodically to look for drips or failures.

    As the poster above said, you will also need to repair the cement board behind the tile you removed. It may be easier at this point to expand the whole a bit so that it makes all the repairs easier.

    #5 1 year ago

    You will need to make the hole bigger as others have said. Since you need support behind the wallboard. Dont feel bad, ya gotta break a few eggs to make an omelette.

    And dont use a sharkbite, solder all the way here.

    #6 1 year ago

    Thanks for the replies. It looks pretty straightforward by cutting a hole in the back wall for access but I was hoping to avoid doing that if at all possible.

    #7 1 year ago

    Where I live, shark bites are not code when they are hidden in a wall, they can only be used where visible. You could swap to a pex or reuse copper.
    Looks like the brass 90 needs to be replaced to that wood, then the shower head nipple screwed in. You should be able to splice in copper to the existing run pretty easily. I'd use the fire blanket material so you don't melt things. Otherwise a pro plumber could knock that out preeeety quick (piping wise) the patch for the tile, you may need duraroc and a backer 2x4 chunk to attach it to, then waterproof/mud/tile.

    2 weeks later
    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from amxfc3s:

    Thanks for the replies. It looks pretty straightforward by cutting a hole in the back wall for access but I was hoping to avoid doing that if at all possible.

    Make sure that pipe is good and secure behind the wall before you close it all back up. You don't wan't constant knocking everytime you take a shower.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from mcluvin:

    Make sure that pipe is good and secure behind the wall before you close it all back up. You don't wan't constant knocking everytime you take a shower.

    Yeah, idk I love access panels for things like this. You'll have to get back int here at some point in the future....

    #10 1 year ago

    When you put the shower head back on, this stuff is so much better than PTFE tape.

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    #11 1 year ago

    I ended up removing 8 tiles so I could get access to the studs through the front. Put in and sealed a new piece of cement board. Soldered a coupler and new pipe/drop ear fitting for the shower head. Re-installed 8 new tiles and we're back in business. Just need to do the grout this weekend and be done with it. Thanks for the tips and suggestions.

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