(Topic ID: 95859)

Show us your EM Pitch and Bat Games!!

By EM-PINMAN

9 years ago


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  • 740 posts
  • 151 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Golgotha
  • Topic is favorited by 67 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider playdium.
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#460 4 years ago

For anyone looking for a Williams Pitch and Bat handle assembly, I just this in from someone who machines them himself. PM if interested.

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2 months later
#467 3 years ago

Did anyone here buy the Williams World Series that was on Ebay in Pennsylvania? The seller ended the auction early. It was a restored machine that looked nice.

2 months later
#476 3 years ago

Currently restoring a Williams 1962 World Series. Applying the graphics to the cabinet this week. Lower board and playfield are done. Many, many hours into it thus far.

3 weeks later
#499 3 years ago

"Do I need to put another wind back on? I'm still trying to mechanically understand this unit..."

No, the motor when it is engaged will wind the spring tension again. (Working on the same machine here)

#501 3 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

Thanks for the input. I will hook it back up and watch it function to better understand it. I've got all the dogs de gummed, so it should behave now. It must do a (spring) release step and wind step during each revolution?

Here's a short video of mine while I was bench testing it.

https://flic.kr/p/2jEjPAS

1 month later
#518 3 years ago

Looking for this brass retainer for the running man frame on a 1962 Williams baseball machine.

download (25) copy (resized).pngdownload (25) copy (resized).png
#521 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

I read this and wondered did you lose it in the teardown?

Hey Steve,
No, someone was into it before and tore up the roll pin area. By attempting to drill it out, it was ruined.

#523 3 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

I just acquired a Williams 1962 World Series game and am super jazzed. The game has six 25 watt incandescent bulbs that over the years (96K games registered) they have melted / warped the various plastic cover parts near the bulbs (2 pcs plastic covers at front of game / 2 pcs plastic covers above running man unit / the long plastic cover with red white blue art that runs width of game where super home run hole is
No doubt some of you have had the same issue. What lower heat bulb options have you changed to?
Also, anyone know where I can get replacement plastic covers, especially the long painted one?

I just got mine from Shay. $100.
My lamps are 15 watt frosted. I have the plastic.

#526 3 years ago

The wiper should look like this. But your picture shows it in the wrong position.

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#531 3 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Thanks
Bat relay coil
The metal sleeve is stuck in the coil. Not sure if one piece design and supposed to be that way. If not does that mean coil needs replacing?
Today I put in a set of new 10amp slow blow fuses (good branded ones -
/ not cheap ones). Turned game on. No movement on any of the scoring reels. Pitching mechanism works. Bat worked too, but seemed weak.
Pressed all of the base hit switches on playfield and scoring man unit worked correctly . Outs clicked, but did not register anything or light up on the back board.
Inning counter advanced when I hit game button (did not reset)
And ...
One of the new fuses blew (the one marked “Normal Line - 50 volt). Below are some photos showing the fuse bank and on / off switch (looks like it’s been modified).
The game also came with a copy of the wiring diagram (World Series 1962). I can’t seem to sync the diagram with what I’m seeing inside the unit.
Guessing fuse is first thing I need to address, but not sure how to go about finding the culprit???
Thanks so much for the help![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

With regards to your issues, first thing to do is work on the power issue. Be very careful with this. You have 110 volts running through the harness to the fuse block, then to the transformer.
My advice would be, unplug the machine, then unplug each Jones plug from the motor board that run to the play field and the score reels. Replace fuse and plug in the machine. By isolating the various components, you will be able to isolate the fault that is blowing the fuse. BE CAREFUL!!!

#534 3 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Did I get that correct?

Yes

Quoted from megoman:

Once the Jones plug causing the fuse issue is identified, what are next steps to determine what specifically is causing the issue?

Follow the schematic for that area and determine where the fault is possibly by using an ohms meter.

Quoted from megoman:

The unit clearly needs to be adjusted. Right behind the gear is a metal ring that has a small bolt that needs an Allen key (see photo). Does that need to be loosed in order to adjust the back plate? If not how is the adjustment made?

No, that set screw secures the ratchet to the shaft. See pic.

Quoted from megoman:

If not how is the adjustment made?

See pic. Remove the nut securing the wiper board. Loosen the 4 screws securing the contact disc to the frame. Slightly turn the disc in either direction to align with the wiper. You should make note which direction it needs to go before removing the wiper. It's also a good time to polish those contacts. I use a small amount of Brasso on a micro fiber cloth. They come out great.

I haven't even applied power to my machine yet. But I do break down every component and do a thorough cleaning, degreasing, polishing, and lubrication before re-assembly.

Just take your time and work methodically. When attempting to disassemble anything, take lots of pictures during the process. Most importantly, "Before" pics.

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#537 3 years ago

Smooth side is hot. The ground wire I use is from Napa Auto Parts. I believe it's 16 or 18 gauge. Comes on small spools and you can get the wire connectors there as well. I ran the ground from the new cord to the transformer, then a ground wire towards the front along the motor board. I'll attach this to the coin door and bat handle.

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#539 3 years ago

Looking for a Williams part #B-4674 Running Man Frame. 1960's pitch and bat.

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#541 3 years ago

I wonder what kind of money makers these were back in the day. That's a pretty impressive arrangement they made and I like the custom paint work on the front of the machines.

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#545 3 years ago

How to determine the "Home Position" of the score motor for a Williams 1962 World Series? Any pics?

#549 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Serious answer, look at the screw marks on the shaft.

I am curious if I have this right. According to the schematic, the switch located at the index at "C", is an orange/green conductor. When this switch is in the open position, the motor is stopped. So is this the at rest home position?

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#551 3 years ago
Quoted from Mopar:

Yes, that looks to be the run-out switch which would be home..
EDIT: I didn't attach any pic. No idea how that pic attached!
Anyways, I have Williams P&Bs, but not any set up, but I'm sure
that is the position when at rest..
[quoted image]

Thanks. PM sent

1 week later
#552 3 years ago

How do you adjust the running man frame so that the base runners line up with the bases?

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#554 3 years ago

Don't see how there is any adjustment made here. Looks like the position of the motor cam is determined by the position of the roll pin thru the motor shaft. Or maybe I'm missing something.

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#557 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

If you look at the picture you attached there is one switch on the upper left that has two screws in a slotted frame. That is the adjustment..... as much as it is.

OK, I'll bench test that with 50 volts to determine the best setting before re-installing the whole unit.

1 week later
#558 3 years ago

With regards to Williams 1960's running man motors, the motor model number is the same for various machines. However, the Spec number is key for each motor. I found that Spec #3422 is for a 3 cam motor, and Spec #1293B is for a 2 cam motor. The shaft is different length for each.

#559 3 years ago

Help needed with the Williams 1962 World Series pitch and bat. The game over circuit is not activating. The Tilt relay is not locked in, nor can I manually Tilt the game. The Game Over relay is not locked in either. Same goes for the Hold Relay. This is while the score motor, inning S.U., and running man unit is firing. There no innings and the 3rd out has been activated.
I have a full digital schematic.

#560 3 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

Help needed with the Williams 1962 World Series pitch and bat. The game over circuit is not activating. The Tilt relay is not locked in, nor can I manually Tilt the game. The Game Over relay is not locked in either. Same goes for the Hold Relay. This is while the score motor, inning S.U., and running man unit is firing. There no innings and the 3rd out has been activated.
I have a full digital schematic.

Problem resolved. A make and break switch on the game over relay was mis-aligned.

4 weeks later
#564 3 years ago

I'm looking for the Williams spring #10A-178 Pitcher Torsion Spring. Did someone reproduce these awhile ago? (1962 World Series)

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2 weeks later
#575 3 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Thanks for the responses
1) Innings
So a game is just one inning with only chance to get extra innings via the Super Home Run.
That actually makes sense based on how the scoring works.
Did experiment ... started new game. Activated Super HR to get extra inning.
At end of inning, the bases were cleared and inning stepped down by 1 inning. This all seems to be correct now -
Now the hi score is not firing. It had been working prior so I’ll need to fiddle with it.
Glass
Thanks for the DIMs. I believe correct thickness is 3/16”.
Two Other Things
1) Recently learned the game has a small bell that rings when a hit is made. My game seems to be missing this bell. Would appreciate if someone can send a picture of the bell + coil and location.
2) I installed a new bat coil. The coil sleeve (metal) is getting a little mis-shapen from a metal washer from the coil plunger/link/pin assembly making contact. Photo of my assembly attached - don’t know if the pin is original. I came across the attached parts list/diagram for the bat mechanism and it looks a little different than what I have. Would love to see what others have for the same 1962 game. [quoted image][quoted image]

That's incorrect for the pin attached to the plunger. I''l send you a pic of mine.

#576 3 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Thanks for the responses
1) Innings
So a game is just one inning with only chance to get extra innings via the Super Home Run.
That actually makes sense based on how the scoring works.
Did experiment ... started new game. Activated Super HR to get extra inning.
At end of inning, the bases were cleared and inning stepped down by 1 inning. This all seems to be correct now -
Now the hi score is not firing. It had been working prior so I’ll need to fiddle with it.
Glass
Thanks for the DIMs. I believe correct thickness is 3/16”.
Two Other Things
1) Recently learned the game has a small bell that rings when a hit is made. My game seems to be missing this bell. Would appreciate if someone can send a picture of the bell + coil and location.
2) I installed a new bat coil. The coil sleeve (metal) is getting a little mis-shapen from a metal washer from the coil plunger/link/pin assembly making contact. Photo of my assembly attached - don’t know if the pin is original. I came across the attached parts list/diagram for the bat mechanism and it looks a little different than what I have. Would love to see what others have for the same 1962 game. [quoted image][quoted image]

This looks correct.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/2A-2559

#578 3 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

1) Recently learned the game has a small bell that rings when a hit is made. My game seems to be missing this bell. Would appreciate if someone can send a picture of the bell + coil and location.

Here is my "before" pic of the bell assembly.

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#579 3 years ago

Here is the 1962 parts catalog page for the 2 bells offered.

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#581 3 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Would love to see pic of mechanism from an actual game if someone can send

First, this is the correct exploded diagram for the 1962 World Series bat assembly. download (20) (resized).pngdownload (20) (resized).png

I purchased my replacement plunger, #2A-2587, from flippers.com. Here I show the original and the replacement.IMG_8498 (resized).jpgIMG_8498 (resized).jpg

And here is my finished bat assembly.IMG_9804 (resized).jpgIMG_9804 (resized).jpgIMG_9805 (resized).jpgIMG_9805 (resized).jpg

#583 3 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

What is the round piece holding the plunger to the arm and is that a cotter pin on the back side keeping it in place?

Clevis pin that is secured with a cotter pin. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/2A-2559

Quoted from megoman:

Is there anywhere to see a description of the parts listed on the diagram?

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1962/files/mobile/index.html#1

At the rear of the catalog the part numbers show descriptions.

#585 3 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

I'm hoping someone can help me here. I'm working on a Williams Major League. The runners are running non stop after most hits are made. There is a coil under the runners that is supposed to pop the runner up, this coil is staying activated. If I manually stop this coil from firing, it stops right away. I think some relay or switch that activates this coil is getting stuck. I have the schematics but I don't know what this coil is called. I'm guessing it is the Loading coil but I am just guessing.
[quoted image]

Check the switch contacts at the 4 relays attached to the running man unit. Relay #2 may have a switch that operates the loading coil.

1 month later
#593 3 years ago

I know someone needing parts for a Williams Double Play Bat Motor. The motor part number is #14A-7788, and the entire assembly is #D-6501. The issue is the part that drops into the brake pads is worn out, needing replacement. This is on the end where the fan blade is located.

Williams Bat Motor Unit (resized).pngWilliams Bat Motor Unit (resized).png
4 months later
#616 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Need some help
My 1962 World Series game is in my garage on rubber matting over the concrete floor.
Due to the dangers of electricity (lots of volts running through the game) I always wear shoes when playing or working on game.
Someone recently played a game in socks (standing on the rubber matting) and got a shock through the bat handle.
Game has a good power cord and three prong plug (I swapped both when I got the game). The game is plugged into a grounded outlet strip.
Gotta get this issue resolved. Do I need to add a ground wire to the bat assembly and then attach it to the metal plate that holds the leg bolts.
Do I need to be concerned about the pitch button as well?
Many thanks for the help

Check the switch to see if there is/was fish paper there to prevent voltage passing to the handle.

Bat Handle Assembly (resized).pngBat Handle Assembly (resized).png
#625 2 years ago

Just straighten the bent roller arm so it is not making direct contact with the switch blade.

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#630 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

One last thing
The lights under the home run lamps are intermitten. They shut off when a game is over, sometimes light at the start of a game and then go off during game, or are not on at start and then turn on at some point.
On the schematic I see the playfield lifts (the 3 ramps are the only playfield lights) with no switches which leads me to believe they are supposed to be on all the time.
At this point not sure how to diagnose / repair the intermitten home run ramp light issues?
Many thanks in advance for the help
[quoted image]

With a small dremel wire brush, clean the sockets for those ramp lights.

#631 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

One last thing
The lights under the home run lamps are intermitten. They shut off when a game is over, sometimes light at the start of a game and then go off during game, or are not on at start and then turn on at some point.
On the schematic I see the playfield lifts (the 3 ramps are the only playfield lights) with no switches which leads me to believe they are supposed to be on all the time.
At this point not sure how to diagnose / repair the intermitten home run ramp light issues?
Many thanks in advance for the help
[quoted image]

This portion of the schematic is the high voltage, not the low voltage for the lamps under the ramps.

#632 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

And now I see the other part of the schematic which shows the switches that impact the ramp lights … Game Over, Reset Hold and Tilt.
I’ll start with the 50 wire going back to Game over relay and make sure that switch good.
[quoted image]

When I did mine, I just purchased new sockets and soldered them in.

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2 weeks later
#647 2 years ago

Williams parts available. Best offer.

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1 year later
#670 1 year ago

Some 1960's 1970's Ford weatherstripping may be close.

#674 1 year ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

More Upper Deck questions. I haven’t really messed with the running man unit or pitcher unit because they are both working fine. Where exactly do I oil the motors?

They are the same as Gottlieb pinball motors. It is a Multi Products motor.

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