Any tips on taking this Upper Deck pitching assembly apart? I would like to clean the part that launches the ball. It looks pretty involved.

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Does it blow a fuse all by itself or does it blow after you press the swing button?

The seller had it pitching when I picked it up. I brought it home, went through a general inspection I was impressed by how clean and complete everything was minor cleanup put a 10 amp breaker on the 15 amp fuse. Currently it turns on coins up and that’s about it. If I hand activate the relays in the front, I can get the breaker to blow intermittently when I activate the slide bank relay reset. Any help would be greatly appreciated..

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I’ve seen some people add vinyl grandstands along the insides of their machines. I would love to do this but I haven’t found much info on it. Anyone have any tips on how to do this?

Don't have pictures but my uncle had a 1970 Williams Hit and Run and we had a Williams bowling machine. I believe it was called 300. Both ended up at my uncle's house. He has since passed and I don't know what his daughter did with them.

Correction: The name just hit me, it was Mini Bowl.

One minor issue with my Upper Deck I haven’t been able to solve is every once in a while the bat just doesn’t swing. I’ve cleaned every single switch in this game. I’ve gone back over every switch associated with the bat button, bat relay, swing relay. The bat mechanism plunger may not be completely hitting the coil stop. The plunger link appears to be hitting the brass coil sleeve. It’s adjustable but I cannot get the screws out. They are just incredibly tight and I’m just stripping the heads. I’ve tried vice grips. I’ve actually ordered screw remover pliers to see if that will work.

Is there any way to fix this? This elongated hole is causing too much play in the bat.

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Tack weld a washer of the correct inside diameter?

Thanks, that’s an idea. I don’t have any welding equipment. I wonder if JB Weld epoxy would hold a washer. Worth a try.

I have made these for Williams 68' Ball Park and Williams 65' Pitch and Bat
PM me if more details are wanted.

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Nice. I’ll send a PM.

On the lubrication points, is it best to use grease or a tiny bit of oil on the part that’s circled?

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It’s part of a mechanism that gets wear in adjacent rollers. But I want to say no lubrication. If anything in the rotating metal to metal spots possibly graphite powder. I am find that areas that I put spots of lubricant 6-8 years ago are now getting sluggish and are getting cleaned again. I am putting very little lubricant if any on wear point now. Never grease.

Steve J

Thanks Steve. I had white grease in there and it did seem sluggish. It was also binding at times possibly because of the elongated hole in the picture a few posts above. That hole is being repaired.

Steve Young at Pinball Resource is the best in the business. I sent him my Upper Deck bracket to repair the elongated shaft hole. He sent me a great condition replacement bracket.

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Yahtzee!

Steve is awesome for sure, but couldn't you just take your piece to a local machine shop and have yours corrected?

I probably could have but I called Steve last week and he said he would try to fix it. He’s done work for me before for my World Fair machine. I’m a long time customer and he gave me a great price on it. Much lower than I’ve seen them go for. He didn’t even know he had one when I spoke to him. The model number is slightly different. It ends with a different letter but the only difference is an extra hole that is not used. It’s playing better. The bat is much smoother and it has not jammed once in the several games that I have played since installing the new bracket. It was well worth it.

I just picked this up today. It was working at the previous owner's house. They took it to auction and it blew a fuse. That was replaced and the machine was partially working. The right batter is somehow magnetized. If he sticks up, it goes into an infinite score loop. This picture is taken with the power off.

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Anyone have a source for a replacement 1950s Williams metal bat?

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Hi Alex, no replacement unfortunately.

It is a two part bat and the piece that has broken is a simple fabrication. There are two spring clips that need punching out (use the centering punch type) and then you can see what needs fabricating. Basically a flat bar with two holes. The rubber can be substituted with hydraulic hose I understand.

Thanks Steve. This is actually O-din's game. This bat has been reworked/welded. He tried but wasn't have any luck getting the pins out.

Anyone with a Williams Line Drive? Is the control panel covered in black leather or is it some kind of textured paint or textured laminate? If it’s leather I was thinking about trying that on my Upper Deck. Does it hold up?

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Until my replacement buttons arrive, I’m tired of not being able to play it. It’s works just fine!

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Deleted, fixed.

Mine has a textured laminate.

Thanks. I’m in the process of painting it black. Painting laminate is a little involved but I think it will look good when it’s done. Hopefully it will hold up. I used BIN shellac primer which was recommended.

Is it a good idea to wax these plastic playfields like a regular pinball machine? I did a search and I saw the question asked before but never answered.

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it wouldn't hurt anything. might keep it clean and reduce marks and make it look nice and shiny

Thanks. I usually just wipe it down with Novus 1 but I figured some wax would be good protection.

Nice touch with the Phillies logo on the coin door!

Thank you. It’s Red October!

I miss my Upper Deck.
Nice looking game!!

Thanks very much! I love it. It gets a lot of play. If I have friends over it’s the first game they go to.

On my Upper Deck, does the mixer unit control only when the curve ball magnet activates, or does it also somehow affect if a pitch is fast or slow? I don’t see any real speed difference between the straight pitches. Should there be a fast pitch, slow pitch and a curve? I’m trying to make the game more difficult.

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Schematic shows it enables curve magnet and changes bat power when 4 ohm resistor is switched out

Ok, thanks. I would say it’s probably working as designed.

Would a new spring for this pitching unit make a difference? C-6322-73 according to the chart SteveinTexas has put together.

Making progress on my Scientific 1941 Batting Practice. Hope to have it for sale soon.

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