(Topic ID: 95859)

Show us your EM Pitch and Bat Games!!

By EM-PINMAN

9 years ago


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  • 151 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Golgotha
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There are 740 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 15.
#601 2 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

If i get an image I can have Peter Koch do a recreate for me...

Last week I pulled an Extra Inning from the barn and replaced the fuse holders, but it's
now 45 minutes away.
Today I pulled a batting Champ, which I'm pretty certain is the same (as far as fuse block)
and the top (which you probably know) is 6 Volts, 10 Amp.
It's on the right side instead of the left, but I'm sure it's the same and if nothing else,
I'll take a pic of that if you want. We'll give it a day or so..

#602 2 years ago

Well, long story short. Back in the 90s I picked up a Batting Champ that was a mess. Glass shot.
This was before I had glasses digitized, so I took a pic of a Friend's glass with a 35 mm camera,
and had one printed out. It's not crisp, but works. Put it in the local Community Center (Kids love
Man-run-Bases) and one day I stop in, and the lock locked funny. It was a different lock! The lock
been changed with them having the key, and not by little kids, but management! Yea! High School
working Kids that were the babysitters, but management!
Anyways after sitting in the barn for 10, 12 years, I pulled her out, and despite even a nest in the
head, everything worked. Score Reels, man unit, beating the high score gives 5 extra runs at the
end of the game. All was good which surprised me a little bit especially the score reels not being at
least a little sticky. There's actually a little bit more to the story, but enough's, enough.
Anyways, didn't William's Man-run-the-Bases from the 60s use 3/4" balls? 2 of my other Williams
from the 60s have 3/4" balls (or I think they're 3/4"), but this machine's been played with larger
balls. Maybe 13/16". It plays fine, but I'm pretty sure it suppose to have 3/4" balls, right?

IMG_0529 (resized).JPGIMG_0529 (resized).JPG
#603 2 years ago
Quoted from Mopar:

Well, long story short. Back in the 90s I picked up a Batting Champ that was a mess. Glass shot.
This was before I had glasses digitized, so I took a pic of a Friend's glass with a 35 mm camera,
and had one printed out. It's not crisp, but works. Put it in the local Community Center (Kids love
Man-run-Bases) and one day I stop in, and the lock locked funny. It was a different lock! The lock
been changed with them having the key, and not by little kids, but management! Yea! High School
working Kids that were the babysitters, but management!
Anyways after sitting in the barn for 10, 12 years, I pulled her out, and despite even a nest in the
head, everything worked. Score Reels, man unit, beating the high score gives 5 extra runs at the
end of the game. All was good which surprised me a little bit especially the score reels not being at
least a little sticky. There's actually a little bit more to the story, but enough's, enough.
Anyways, didn't William's Man-run-the-Bases from the 60s use 3/4" balls? 2 of my other Williams
from the 60s have 3/4" balls (or I think they're 3/4"), but this machine's been played with larger
balls. Maybe 13/16". It plays fine, but I'm pretty sure it suppose to have 3/4" balls, right?
[quoted image]

Yep, 3/4” balls. Steve Young set me straight on that a little while ago and it made a nice difference with the pitch action.

#604 2 years ago

I am looking for the full Target Assembly for a 72 Midway Flash Baseball game, the bat/pitch bar and a schematic. (winter project I hope)

please let me know if you have any,

I think these are correct examples.

Thanks!

lockdown bar and controls (resized).jpglockdown bar and controls (resized).jpgtargets (resized).jpgtargets (resized).jpg
#605 2 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

can somebody take a picture of their fuse block label on a Williams 1962 Extra Innings P&B

Well, it does kinda look as if it's 60 years old, but this is from a 1961 Williams Batting Champ P&B.
I'd have to think it's the same label markings as Extra Inning..

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#606 2 years ago

Many years ago I had the "Super Home Run" plexi made for Batting Champ,
the file got lost, so had it recreated for Extra Inning. I can have it made in
a decal form, so if anyone could use one, it's 30 or 35 bucks. (I picked up a
few things at the same time, so I'm not sure on the exact amount).
You cut the proper size plexi (I use lexan), punch a hole in it for the Super
Home Run, and apply the decal on the backside.

IMG_0532 (resized).JPGIMG_0532 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#607 2 years ago

Friends

Needs a third base switch from a Williams manrun unit.

Actually just need the wire that activates the switch when the player rotates around to third base.

Photo showing the switch (closer seitchbon photo / switch behind is to register runs)

Please PM me if you can help. Thanks.

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#608 2 years ago

You can get piano wire from pbr and make your own

#609 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Actually just need the wire that activates the switch when the player rotates around to third base.

I have baseball parts in a ben. Tomorrow I'll check if I have any.
If not, as mentioned, you can make your own. I formed ball bowler
rollovers with thin stainless steel rod, but first I'll know by tomorrow
morning if I have an original..

#610 2 years ago

Thank you both for the responses

If original wire / switch is available great.

If not will make a piece up as suggested

#611 2 years ago

Also, any one have the art for the left and right cards on the playfield holders for a 1966 Williams Pitch & Bat game?

#612 2 years ago

And a picture of the of the relay names on the bank in the cabinet.

There is a inside cabinet pic on the IPMD website, but the relay names are not legible.

Anyone have an extra metal bar that goes across the top of all those relays?

#613 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

If original wire / switch is available great.

If not will make a piece up as suggested

Sorry. I took a look and have the men, but not the wire.. (T)

1 week later
#614 2 years ago

Need some help

My 1962 World Series game is in my garage on rubber matting over the concrete floor.

Due to the dangers of electricity (lots of volts running through the game) I always wear shoes when playing or working on game.

Someone recently played a game in socks (standing on the rubber matting) and got a shock through the bat handle.

Game has a good power cord and three prong plug (I swapped both when I got the game). The game is plugged into a grounded outlet strip.

Gotta get this issue resolved. Do I need to add a ground wire to the bat assembly and then attach it to the metal plate that holds the leg bolts.

Do I need to be concerned about the pitch button as well?

Many thanks for the help

#615 2 years ago

Were they only touching bat handle or was the other hand touching machine somewhere?

#616 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Need some help
My 1962 World Series game is in my garage on rubber matting over the concrete floor.
Due to the dangers of electricity (lots of volts running through the game) I always wear shoes when playing or working on game.
Someone recently played a game in socks (standing on the rubber matting) and got a shock through the bat handle.
Game has a good power cord and three prong plug (I swapped both when I got the game). The game is plugged into a grounded outlet strip.
Gotta get this issue resolved. Do I need to add a ground wire to the bat assembly and then attach it to the metal plate that holds the leg bolts.
Do I need to be concerned about the pitch button as well?
Many thanks for the help

Check the switch to see if there is/was fish paper there to prevent voltage passing to the handle.

Bat Handle Assembly (resized).pngBat Handle Assembly (resized).png
#617 2 years ago

I’m pretty sure they were only touching the bat.

I know you asked for a reason in terms of trouble shooting. As I’m pretty novice in this area, what does it mean if the “zap” comes from touching one vs two things (ie - zap from just bat // zap from bat + pitch button or bat + metal rail.

Also, based on what I described could someone be seriously injured or is it likely just getting a shock?

#618 2 years ago

Was typing when next post came.

Fish paper - was not familiar with term so looked it up- it’s a flexible insulation material.

Below is a photo of the bat mechanism. No fish paper nor do I see remnants of it.

As bat stem physically pushes the switch don’t see how contact with the switch can be avoided?

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#619 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Was typing when next post came.
Fish paper - was not familiar with term so looked it up- it’s a flexible insulation material.
Below is a photo of the bat mechanism. No fish paper nor do I see remnants of it.
As bat stem physically pushes the switch don’t see how contact with the switch can be avoided?
[quoted image]

Need to look at my game but your bat switch is not correct. Your red wire is touching the bat via the roller contact when you pull on it.

#620 2 years ago

So once the bat switch is energized, when contact is made between the bat stem and the roller ... zap as the current flows through. Very interesting.

Assuming the red/white wires are reversed and get corrected, won’t current still flow to the bat handle once the switch contacts touch?

#621 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

As bat stem physically pushes the switch don’t see how contact with the switch can be avoided?

You need to put fish paper under the roller blade from front to tail, or better yet.
Epoxy or Contact Cement a thin rubber strip under the roller blade.
And well you're at it, you might want to first straighten that blade out so it's not
touching the blade underneath it in the center..

#622 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

So once the bat switch is energized, when contact is made between the bat stem and the roller ... zap as the current flows through. Very interesting.
Assuming the red/white wires are reversed and get corrected, won’t current still flow to the bat handle once the switch contacts touch?

Looked at my games. See the pic below. image1 (resized).jpegimage1 (resized).jpeg

The switch roller that touches the bat lever is pushed when we try to hit the ball. The switch contact it moves has a nylon contact that insulates the power from the bat lever. Fix the switch so it touches the leaf and all is good. No need for any fish paper just make it work correctly as the correct parts are there.

The Williams part diagram omits the nylon contact by error, never noticed before.

The wiring is not factory, that’s not unusual and is 110V per the diagram snippet attached. No reason to alter as I can see.
image0 (resized).jpegimage0 (resized).jpeg

Hope that helps.

Steve J.

#623 2 years ago

Thanks all

When I took the photo I thought the switch stack with the bent leaf seemed a little odd. Bat had always worked so never paid any attention to it.

The light bulb went off when Mopar said to adjust the leaves. That bent leaf with the roller had metal to metal contact with leaf with the red wire. That would have always been passing current up the bat barrel. Who can explain why zap with socks on the rubber mat over concrete.

I properly adjusted all the leaves so that incorrect contact was fixed. Bat stem now only touches the plastic spacer on the second leaf so the zap problem has been resolved.

Appreciate everyone help.

Is there any other grounding that may need to be done in the game?

#624 2 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

fix the switch so it touches the leaf and all is good.

That's right. It's nylon. I have a few, but it's been awhile. He only needs to straighten the roller blade..

Quoted from megoman:

When I took the photo I thought the switch stack with the bent leaf seemed a little odd.

Yea, wonder how that got bent. It shouldn't matter, but I'd maybe make sure the roller is free.
You wouldn't think so, but might have gotten snagged.

#625 2 years ago

Just straighten the bent roller arm so it is not making direct contact with the switch blade.

shocking bat (resized).jpegshocking bat (resized).jpeg
#626 2 years ago

And should Mark be reading this post, please tell Dave that “Clevis” was the person who worked on the game and adjusted those switches to give shocks when the bat was touched.

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#627 2 years ago

One last thing

The lights under the home run lamps are intermitten. They shut off when a game is over, sometimes light at the start of a game and then go off during game, or are not on at start and then turn on at some point.

On the schematic I see the playfield lifts (the 3 ramps are the only playfield lights) with no switches which leads me to believe they are supposed to be on all the time.

At this point not sure how to diagnose / repair the intermitten home run ramp light issues?

Many thanks in advance for the help

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#628 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

One last thing
The lights under the home run lamps are intermitten. They shut off when a game is over, sometimes light at the start of a game and then go off during game, or are not on at start and then turn on at some point.
On the schematic I see the playfield lifts (the 3 ramps are the only playfield lights) with no switches which leads me to believe they are supposed to be on all the time.
At this point not sure how to diagnose / repair the intermitten home run ramp light issues?
Many thanks in advance for the help
[quoted image]

Those are the 120v big light bulbs right in front of the player that shine forward, and they should be on all the time. The ramp lights are only on during the game and are powered by the 6v circuit. I don't have a schematic in front of me but they likely have a switch on the game over relay.

Edit: the lamp sockets can also be suspect.

#629 2 years ago

And now I see the other part of the schematic which shows the switches that impact the ramp lights … Game Over, Reset Hold and Tilt.

I’ll start with the 50 wire going back to Game over relay and make sure that switch good.

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#630 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

One last thing
The lights under the home run lamps are intermitten. They shut off when a game is over, sometimes light at the start of a game and then go off during game, or are not on at start and then turn on at some point.
On the schematic I see the playfield lifts (the 3 ramps are the only playfield lights) with no switches which leads me to believe they are supposed to be on all the time.
At this point not sure how to diagnose / repair the intermitten home run ramp light issues?
Many thanks in advance for the help
[quoted image]

With a small dremel wire brush, clean the sockets for those ramp lights.

#631 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

One last thing
The lights under the home run lamps are intermitten. They shut off when a game is over, sometimes light at the start of a game and then go off during game, or are not on at start and then turn on at some point.
On the schematic I see the playfield lifts (the 3 ramps are the only playfield lights) with no switches which leads me to believe they are supposed to be on all the time.
At this point not sure how to diagnose / repair the intermitten home run ramp light issues?
Many thanks in advance for the help
[quoted image]

This portion of the schematic is the high voltage, not the low voltage for the lamps under the ramps.

#632 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

And now I see the other part of the schematic which shows the switches that impact the ramp lights … Game Over, Reset Hold and Tilt.
I’ll start with the 50 wire going back to Game over relay and make sure that switch good.
[quoted image]

When I did mine, I just purchased new sockets and soldered them in.

IMG_8698 (resized).jpgIMG_8698 (resized).jpg
#633 2 years ago

My 1st Chicago Coin. It's an All Stars Pitch and Bat. I just brought it home from Pinfest. All I know right now is that it powers-up and pitches the ball and the bat mech does work. Any advise on things to look out for? I will be cleaning/cleaning/cleaning both sets of score reels and stepper units and jones plugs. Also be looking for broken wires or bad connections. I was able to get a schematic. One question I have is.... how many balls should this have in the game, right now there are only 5. I will start it's one thread as needed during this time of initial cleanup.

thanks
Steve

#634 2 years ago

Years back, before putting on backings, my Graphic Designer did a beautiful job digitizing the art work for
Score Board. This week he did the block out backing. I don't have a before pic, but it made all the difference..

IMG_0611 (resized).JPGIMG_0611 (resized).JPG
#635 2 years ago

Here it is... Chicago Coin All Stars Pitch & Bat. Every stepper unit and all score reels were gummed up. Cleaned up the batting mech. Reflowed and cleaned up a few solder connections. Oh almost forgot to mention, the score motor cam had the usual crack at the mounting point, so I did the hack/fix and all is good.This came to life nicely. Everything worked except the 10-90 unit, after jumpering thru the path, wouldn't you know it, it was the last thing to check. I found a broken wire (green- sw G) on the start relay. So far-So good... don't mind the jumper at the pitching buttons, 1 was dead, I have 3 NOS buttons coming...

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#636 2 years ago

Will it be a resto or will leave it as it is?

#637 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Will it be a resto or will leave it as it is?

I like originality... I call it character but thats just me

#638 2 years ago

Huge stretch. Anyone have one these or something similar laying around?

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#639 2 years ago

My buddy has a 1957 Williams Deluxe Baseball, and I've been wondering: what size balls does that game use? How many should be installed?

It looks like the previous owner has a couple different sizes installed, and the smaller one doesn't always trip the scoring switches.

#640 2 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

My buddy has a 1957 Williams Deluxe Baseball, and I've been wondering: what size balls does that game use? How many should be installed?
It looks like the previous owner has a couple different sizes installed, and the smaller one doesn't always trip the scoring switches.

I saved documentation on this (ball sizes in pitch and bats) years ago when RPG was the place to go for info. The 1962 Williams parts book confirms that Baseball games used 7/8" balls with the only exception being Official Baseball (1960) which uses 3/4". Later catalogs show the same info.
I have Williams P&B's from 56 thru 62 and can confirm this is true. You must use 3/4" in OBB but all the rest are 7/8".
As far as number -- 5 or 6 is about right -- if you are waiting for a ball to roll back down and que in the pitch mechanism you need more balls installed.

AND -- don't buy you pitch and bat balls from Marco or PBR where they charge outrageous prices. They are steel bearings. You are playing on formica and they aren't going to wear the PF like in a pin. I get these

ebay.com link: itm

price includes shipping and they offer lots of 5, 10, 20 etc and also standard pinball sizes in qty. search their store

#641 2 years ago
Quoted from bigdog50:

The 1962 Williams parts book confirms that Baseball games used 7/8" balls with the only exception being Official Baseball (1960) which uses 3/4". Later catalogs show the same info.

This is good to know. I have a few P & Bs and was told 3/4" balls in 1960s Williams games.
Do you know if 7/8" applies to all Williams machines after 1962?

#642 2 years ago
Quoted from Mopar:

This is good to know. I have a few P & Bs and was told 3/4" balls in 1960s Williams games.
Do you know if 7/8" applies to all Williams machines after 1962?

I put this chart for Williams EM Pitch & Bat games together so we can look at swapping parts to keep our games running. On the first entry there are charts with data and the ball size is listed for all games under the batting Unit data.

One thing to remind everyone is the plastic bats are a reason that people recommend 3/4" balls as they are prone to break. I prefer to use 7/8" balls but I have spare bats.

Here is a link to the charts.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-baseball-game-motor-coils-and-bat-assembly-information#post-5234306

Regards Steve J.

#643 2 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

One thing to remind everyone is the plastic bats are a reason that people recommend 3/4" balls as they are prone to break. I prefer to use 7/8" balls but I have spare bats.

One thing I've learned to do with all my machines with plastic bats is contact cement a
piece of rubber on the front of the bat where the ball strikes. A piece of used 3/8" 3" flipper
rubber works ideally. To my recollection, a plastic bat hasn't broken since applying rubbers
(mid 90s).
Also, if switching from 7/8" to 3/4", having to reduce the pitch speed is a real possibility.
After recently making that ball change on an Extra Inning, the ball speed increased so much,
that I guess it was playable, but extremely uncomfortably, so I just stuck with the 7/8".
The Batting Practice plays well with 3/4", but now knowing 7/8" is the norm, have to do a
little experimenting, but I think maybe switching to 7/8" may be a little better for Score Board's
play..

#644 2 years ago
Quoted from bigdog50:

I saved documentation on this (ball sizes in pitch and bats) years ago when RPG was the place to go for info. The 1962 Williams parts book confirms that Baseball games used 7/8" balls with the only exception being Official Baseball (1960) which uses 3/4". Later catalogs show the same info.
I have Williams P&B's from 56 thru 62 and can confirm this is true. You must use 3/4" in OBB but all the rest are 7/8".
As far as number -- 5 or 6 is about right -- if you are waiting for a ball to roll back down and que in the pitch mechanism you need more balls installed.
AND -- don't buy you pitch and bat balls from Marco or PBR where they charge outrageous prices. They are steel bearings. You are playing on formica and they aren't going to wear the PF like in a pin. I get these
ebay.com link: itm
price includes shipping and they offer lots of 5, 10, 20 etc and also standard pinball sizes in qty. search their store

This is terrific info, extremely helpful! Thanks for the info and the link!!

#645 2 years ago

Steve is The Man!

#646 2 years ago

Great info on the Williams games. How about Midway? I have a Midway Deluxe Baseball (1962). Should I be using 7/8” balls? It has a metal bat….

#647 2 years ago

Williams parts available. Best offer.

IMG_1026 (resized).jpgIMG_1026 (resized).jpgIMG_1037 (resized).jpgIMG_1037 (resized).jpg
#648 2 years ago
Quoted from Mopar:

One thing I've learned to do with all my machines with plastic bats is contact cement a
piece of rubber on the front of the bat where the ball strikes. A piece of used 3/8" 3" flipper
rubber works ideally. To my recollection, a plastic bat hasn't broken since applying rubbers
(mid 90s).
Also, if switching from 7/8" to 3/4", having to reduce the pitch speed is a real possibility.
After recently making that ball change on an Extra Inning, the ball speed increased so much,
that I guess it was playable, but extremely uncomfortably, so I just stuck with the 7/8".
The Batting Practice plays well with 3/4", but now knowing 7/8" is the norm, have to do a
little experimenting, but I think maybe switching to 7/8" may be a little better for Score Board's
play..

Hi Mopar,
When you add the rubber on the bat, does it give a ball a little more lift/action? Im asking because on my CC All Stars P&B I am able to hit the ball off the top of the wall but never gets over the wall.

Thanks
Steve

#649 2 years ago
Quoted from smohr:

When you add the rubber on the bat, does it give a ball a little more lift/action?

Hey Steve!
Because it's been awhile I can't remember what performance it may have changed except that
the added strip of rubber appears to have absorbed much of the balls punishment.
Is there a way you can slightly space the front of the ramps upward on All Stars?
I remember having that problem on one of the baseball machines, and I raised the front
of the ramp with a small washer, and that did the trick..
Just a very little more pitch can make the difference.
btw: I have/had P&B men-run-the-bases in public places (Kids love playing them), and can't
remember having a plastic bat break after 25 years since adding the rubber strip.. (T)

#650 2 years ago

Thanks Mopar, great tip. I will check the ramps.

Thanks again.

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