Here's a short video of mine while I was bench testing it.

https://flic.kr/p/2jEjPAS

That is very helpful - thank you!

Question - on your Star Series - how many balls does your machine have? Mine has two...yea, yea, yeah...I can hear it now..lol...but really, sometimes you have to wait for the 2nd ball to complete the full return, before it will pitch again...so wondering if there should be 3 to 5 in there? Or will that lock it up with too much weight? (I also notice, these are smaller than the std pinball 1 1/16" - what size are these supposed to be?

You bet. Mine is loaded with 5 balls, 15/16” in diameter. I tried some rapid fire pitching tonight and couldn’t get it to shoot blanks unless there were 3 or 4 “foul balls” rolling around on the playfield. Also thought you might enjoy these score cards, I especially like the Bush League-to-Major League ranking system...let me know if you’d like me to scan any of these for you. Love the script on the old operator envelope too.

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Aha! Now I need to order and Add some more balls! Thank you!

anyone need a new scenery for the baseball game, i have one from pinball rescue that i am not going to use. it is the listed as green fence, on plastic.
Baseball Scenery (Green Fence)
Plastic - Part I.D UNI - BSP2
US$68.00 each + Postage
i will let it go for 60.00 shipped
stock photo posted

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Received my order from Marco’s and what a difference. It’s like a whole new game. No waiting at all! Wow! Something so small. Lol I can tali’s fire pitch now too! I do notice , if the base runners are moving the bat is disengaged (so I guess a squeeze play is out of the question ?). Lol

But thanks again! Big improvement having enough balls ! Why hang with 2 when 5 does so much better! Ha!

"I can tali’s fire pitch now too!" ?? Sorry - I can rapid fire pitch now too!

Hi Guys, What is the correct ball size for Williams Upper Deck?

mine is buried in my shop right now . may take a few days to get to it

haven't measured but think it is 3/4

Very nice! Now, 5 balls would be a squeeze play indeed...

A 1956 United Star Slugger. For sale actually, in the Pinside for sale ads. Mostly original cabinet, just some pro touch ups.
Located in Middleton WI.

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Nice!, How do you win over 100 replays?

Hey Jeremy
Hope all’s well.

Well, there isn’t a magic shot to make, so you’d have to play consistently great over many games. You get 1 credit for a score of 50 runs, and up to 8 credits with a score of 160 runs.
The highest I’ve had was 99 runs, I think, which got me 4 credits.
I’m not so sure that 3rd credit wheel was really needed. ??

Dave

The play field is nice. Just needs a little cleaning. I was lazy and didn’t want to move the game next to it to lift the coffin lid. Sorry for the bad photo.

Can anyone confirm the leg lengths for Williams 1962 World Series? I would assume all four should be 31". My machine came with two 31" legs that appear to be the original grey, and two chrome 28 1/2" legs.

Looking for this brass retainer for the running man frame on a 1962 Williams baseball machine.

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could you use a collar from a hardware store?

I read this and wondered did you lose it in the teardown?

Hey Steve,
No, someone was into it before and tore up the roll pin area. By attempting to drill it out, it was ruined.

I just acquired a Williams 1962 World Series game and am super jazzed. The game has six 25 watt incandescent bulbs that over the years (96K games registered) they have melted / warped the various plastic cover parts near the bulbs (2 pcs plastic covers at front of game / 2 pcs plastic covers above running man unit / the long plastic cover with red white blue art that runs width of game where super home run hole is

No doubt some of you have had the same issue. What lower heat bulb options have you changed to?

Also, anyone know where I can get replacement plastic covers, especially the long painted one?

I just got mine from Shay. $100.
My lamps are 15 watt frosted. I have the plastic.

Great pickup on that game. I have a 1963 Williams Major League with similar lighting and installed 40 W “Vintage” style LED bulbs. They cast a great old-timey feel amber glow, and barely heat up at all.

Had to replace coil on one of the scoring reels and see that the copper piece on the inside had been broken with a section missing (see pic). Will this prevent the reel from working properly?

Thanks

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The wiper should look like this. But your picture shows it in the wrong position.

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Looks like you unscrewed the scoring wheel while I took out the retaining clip and slid out the reel and gear. Seems to be the same thing.

A few other questions which I hope someone can answer

Bat relay coil
H-23-870
Does anyone know how many ohms this coil should have?

Relay coils
Z-30-1800
There are 11 of these coils in the cabinet. Coil chart shows they should be 32.9 ohms. 3 of the coils are only registering around 11 ohms (the others all around 33). Does this mean the need to be replaced?

Coil sleeves
Is it a good idea to to replace any metal sleeves with plastic ones? Also, should plastic sleeves be replaced with fresh ones to optimize performance of the coils?

Thanks for the help

Also the sleeve on the bat relay coil appears to be part of the coil (not removable). Is this actually the case?

Your initial question was answered by Ken. So all is good.

I realize ohms are important if we suspect a coil is not pulling in. Coils work or don’t they don’t gradually lose their power. The will fry if left on too long and blow a fuse, or not work immediately if a wound wire is broken. I don’t know the Ohms of the 110 volt bat relay but it rarely like all solenoids needs replacing. If it fires the bat all is good.

If the others mentioned are 11 Ohms they should be replaced.

Regarding sleeves some are metal like the bat relay mentioned. If you replace the coil you will likely get another metal one. The others are unlikely to be removable on a game this old and are all probably fine. Check that they have not got physical damage and clean as best you can.

Plastic sleeves can be slid out and cleaned and will be as good as new.

Thanks

Bat relay coil
The metal sleeve is stuck in the coil. Not sure if one piece design and supposed to be that way. If not does that mean coil needs replacing?

Today I put in a set of new 10amp slow blow fuses (good branded ones -
/ not cheap ones). Turned game on. No movement on any of the scoring reels. Pitching mechanism works. Bat worked too, but seemed weak.

Pressed all of the base hit switches on playfield and scoring man unit worked correctly . Outs clicked, but did not register anything or light up on the back board.

Inning counter advanced when I hit game button (did not reset)

And ...
One of the new fuses blew (the one marked “Normal Line - 50 volt). Below are some photos showing the fuse bank and on / off switch (looks like it’s been modified).

The game also came with a copy of the wiring diagram (World Series 1962). I can’t seem to sync the diagram with what I’m seeing inside the unit.

Guessing fuse is first thing I need to address, but not sure how to go about finding the culprit???

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With regards to your issues, first thing to do is work on the power issue. Be very careful with this. You have 110 volts running through the harness to the fuse block, then to the transformer.
My advice would be, unplug the machine, then unplug each Jones plug from the motor board that run to the play field and the score reels. Replace fuse and plug in the machine. By isolating the various components, you will be able to isolate the fault that is blowing the fuse. BE CAREFUL!!!

Thanks

So with the 4 Jones plugs undone (3 in back box with scoring reels / 1 below for the running man unit) are you saying to attach one of the plugs, turn on game / push start button and see if fuse blows. If yes then that plug bank is causing issue. If not turn off game, disconnect plug that I just tested and attached the next Jones plug. Again turn on / start game and see if fuse blows. Repeat with all four Jones plugs.

Did I get that correct?

There are also two small Jones plugs on the front of the game board. Guessing the one on the fuse bank side is providing power to the board so needs to be connected. Should the other one be disconnected and be part of the overall testing, same as the other plugs?

Once the Jones plug causing the fuse issue is identified, what are next steps to determine what specifically is causing the issue?

Also, I had mentioned that outs were not registering when the out switches board were activated. Checked the Out stepper unit and it was gummed up and not moving freely. Cleaned it all up with all parts now freely moving. However, I noticed that the contact point that moves on the back of unit is not properly aligned with the metal circles as unit cycles through the outs (see photo). Its off something like 1/4 of a gear tooth length.

The unit clearly needs to be adjusted. Right behind the gear is a metal ring that has a small bolt that needs an Allen key (see photo). Does that need to be loosed in order to adjust the back plate? If not how is the adjustment made?

The ongoing input is great appreciated.

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The screws that hold the Bakelite board down loosen and adjust the board. Should be able to adjust for that then tighten back up. Try again till right.

Yes

Follow the schematic for that area and determine where the fault is possibly by using an ohms meter.

No, that set screw secures the ratchet to the shaft. See pic.

See pic. Remove the nut securing the wiper board. Loosen the 4 screws securing the contact disc to the frame. Slightly turn the disc in either direction to align with the wiper. You should make note which direction it needs to go before removing the wiper. It's also a good time to polish those contacts. I use a small amount of Brasso on a micro fiber cloth. They come out great.

I haven't even applied power to my machine yet. But I do break down every component and do a thorough cleaning, degreasing, polishing, and lubrication before re-assembly.

Just take your time and work methodically. When attempting to disassemble anything, take lots of pictures during the process. Most importantly, "Before" pics.

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You can tell in the first photo how far off the bakelite plate is if you compare the top edge of it to the top edge of the metal behind it. Once properly adjusted, they should be much closer to parallel.

Got it. Thanks

Next up ... the game has the original power cord so I want to replace with new cord that includes a grounding wire to the transformer case. Below is a photo of the existing cord soldered in. Not sure which is the hot wire - connected on side with one wire on other side of lug or side with 2 wires on other side of lug. How can I determine?

It was also sugesstrd to run a ground braid to the metal legs, coin door, lockdown bar and rails. Does wire actually need to be braided and how do I connect the wire to all the locations?

Happy Friday!

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Smooth side is hot. The ground wire I use is from Napa Auto Parts. I believe it's 16 or 18 gauge. Comes on small spools and you can get the wire connectors there as well. I ran the ground from the new cord to the transformer, then a ground wire towards the front along the motor board. I'll attach this to the coin door and bat handle.

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Cool

Next ...
On the bank of coils tuning down same side as transformer, the outside row of wires has alternating bare braided wire and encased braided wire. On two of the encased wire the casing has started to deteriorate so I’m going to replace those wires.

Then connecting the three middle sets of coils there are a few solid black wires where the outer casing appears damaged from melting (see pics). Those wires are solid metal (not strands of wires together) which are silver in color. Don’t know why casing is melting, but I want to replace those wires. I have similar gauge copper wire. Can I use this wire to to replace?

Interestingly, on 3 of the 4 IT 30 - 500 coils the wire connecting the coil to the switch also has case melt. I will replace these wires as well. These wires have a marooon / reddish color casing. I have black case and white case wires. Can I use either of these or do I need to be concerned with color coding?

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Looking for a Williams part #B-4674 Running Man Frame. 1960's pitch and bat.

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Update on the power issue (10 amp fuse blowing)

The fuse bank has 4 10amp holders

1) 6 volts (runs the lamps)
2) Low Line - 50 volts
3) Normal Line - 50 volts (runs the coils + relays)
4) Line - (runs the high power items - bat coil / curve magnet)

I had put fuses in both the Low Line + Normal Line. Turns out you only put a fuse in one or the other (not both).

The low line tap was put in place as during the early 1960’s wall voltage was not always consistent. This route actually increases the voltage by a few points to compensate for a low voltage situation

Correct voltage out of the wall not really an issue in today’s world, hence the Normal Line fuse is the correct one to use.

When I had the fuse in both Low Line and Normal Line it was overflowing the circuit and hence blowing the fuse.

There is nothing in the game that indicates using only one of these two fuse holders.

I wonder what kind of money makers these were back in the day. That's a pretty impressive arrangement they made and I like the custom paint work on the front of the machines.

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it seems that have some kind of a promotion going on with these games to have the neon sign on the wall. kind of reminiscent of skee ball.

The playfield glass that came on my Wiliams 1962 World Series game was broken. I have the correct width dimension from the broken piece, but need the length.

Would appreciate if someone can provide.

Thanks!

Hey megoman don't know if this helps but my 58 williams sure shot glass is 22/3/4 x 43 lg. Been working on mine for a while, keeps me busy,take care.jeff

How to determine the "Home Position" of the score motor for a Williams 1962 World Series? Any pics?

Serious answer, look at the screw marks on the shaft.

When this pictured surfaced many years ago on the old rec.games.pinball boards I recall it was from a large well known beachside arcade in South Carolina or somewhere close. They were 25 cents a game and you got prizes for certain run levels == as shown in the sign above the bank of games -- 22 runs wins choice. They also had a bank of 57 Baseball pitch and bats and those hit the auction market 10-15 years ago. They had removed the replay units and home run counters since they only gave prizes on runs. I have one of those in the que to fix some day and get it rewired properly.

Found my old pic of the Arcade with the row of 1957 Baseballs

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I am curious if I have this right. According to the schematic, the switch located at the index at "C", is an orange/green conductor. When this switch is in the open position, the motor is stopped. So is this the at rest home position?

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