Does anyone know anything about philadelphia toboggan company skeeballs? I have an old em one (i think 50s) and im trying to find out where the serial number is so i can get the model and year for schematics
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Does anyone know anything about philadelphia toboggan company skeeballs? I have an old em one (i think 50s) and im trying to find out where the serial number is so i can get the model and year for schematics
Thanks for all the replies! It makes sense to use the wax, its already been cleaned and waxed, but it does need the bead wax. I ordered some. Yes its a 1950s chicago coin 10th frame bowling. It needs some work and id love to find a new glass for it and the plastic surround on the pins, but i like it a lot. It never ends a game, it just keeps going, but it does cycle through players. Cant wait to dig in to it!
Question, how hard is it to find a wooden pin hood for a ball bowler? Are they hard to reproduce? There is one for sale that i was looking at, but the hood is missing. (Chicago coin bowling league)
Quoted from Mopar:For both United and Bally Ball Bowlers, I built pin hoods. The tricky part would be to
make the front tight curve. With that, I made a half moon type shape (or maybe a C
may be a better description) by cutting it out with a band saw. Of course I had another
pin hood to go by. I never had a Bowling League, but have/had plenty of C.C. Big Ball
Bowlers and they made solid bowlers. If the rest is decent and a good price, I wouldn't
hesitate to pick it up.
Thanks, i ended up missing out on it anyways!
Kind of related to this thread. I have an apollo moon shot rifle game, and im trying to clean 50 years of nicotine off the sides. Whats the best way? I tried mean green and magic eraser, but felt like too much paint was coming off. I tried tsp, but that too seems like paint is coming off. How does everyone do it??
Quoted from Mopar:On cabinets, the combination I found to work best also!
Thanks. I was just worried about paint loss, but i dont want to put it into the basement until its clean!
Quoted from SirScott:Maybe you can utilize this before trying to move it to the gameroom,
I moved it to the garage myself! How bad can steps be? Ya, its heavy!
Its in decent shape. I need to get a repro glass for it as the artwork is missing, but its fun. Needs a little love, but ill get to it. Sorry howie, not for sale yet!
Quoted from ultimategameroom:Thanks mopar ! I will pass on your info. Very helpful. My buddy is going to look at it after talking to the current owner. Price was not discussed. Very hard to tell condition from the dark picture. I will post further info once I hear from him after he checks it out and hopefully picks it up.
I have one of these. Mine was modded to work at an amusement park though. I believe the serial number was a sticker, so it could be gone. Mine is gone. I was told it was earlier, like early 50s, but i have no idea. Ive moved it with 2 people, but id suggest 3 at least. As far as value i really dont know, but 1500 working sounds like a good number.
20170428_183518 (resized).jpgSo i just bought this. A mercury strength tester. Good restoration candidate. Im not sure if and when ill get to it though, just wanted to save it. If anyone is looking for one, please let me know, make me an offer, whatever. If not, ill get to it someday!
20190912_193753 (resized).jpg20190912_193805 (resized).jpg20190912_193829 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mopar:The Mercury counter tops go for a pretty good coin. The floor models come up less often..
Any idea on value? Unrestored and restored. Im probably going to start the restoration next month, but dont want to sink a ton into it if its not worth it. Although itll be a pretty cool piece when im done i hope
Lol. Ya, thats similar shape of mine, except mine has the back panel. Im into it for 375, may not really be worth restoring, just get it working and enjoy.
Quoted from Oldgoat:I'm no expert, but I think if it were reasonably restored...I don't mean pristine, better than new...but painted with a good automotive paint, all parts there, working as it should and a nice dial, you should be able to get at least $600. Part of the problem with these floor models is that they weigh a ton, so your market starts to narrow down to people that will drive to pick it up.
Personally, I would say $375 was a great deal, assuming all the innards are there and it works. If the one I linked had been local to me, I would have put in a bid for it. If you decide you don't want to restore it AND happen to be driving down this way, maybe to the beach or mountains, let me know. I may be interested.
Ill let you know, i was just in virginia last month, so who knows. And it is suprisingly light for being all metal.
Quoted from PinballAir:I lose money on everything I restore.
I restore machines now that I want to have for a while.
Then I sell it for a loss and move on.
I wish I could purchase machines for what I end up selling them for but already restored.
Ya, i know the feeling. I really just enjoy the process of the restore. Loss or gain, its fun to see the before and after
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