I have a couple of 'flaunt my ignorance' questions regarding bowlers. When a bowler is a 16[footer, I assume that is just the length of the alley and not the full length of the machine. Is that correct? And, if so, how many additional feet do you figure the actual length of a bowler is? Second, how do they disassemble for moving? Specifically, into how many pieces would a 16' bowler break into?

Thanks, so the longest section on a 16 footer would be less than 8 feet, correct?

Is there a standard width?

It looks like there are several approaches/mechanisms to registering which pins are hit. Most look to have sensors in the alley by the pins. However, others seem to have the pins suspended so that the pins can actually hit each other to replicate true pin action. Are there other approaches? What are the pros and cons of each?

I assume you have the pro and cons mixed up on the last one. So when you say that a good bowler will destroy them do you mean that a good bowler will consistently get strikes or are you saying that someone who throws the ball hard will break the pins?

Thanks for the link. I'm very early in the process and starting to educate myself. I built a shuffleboard table and find it is the preferred game when we have people over. I think a bowler would be the same way, plus it seems most provide for 6 players.

I continue to be intrigued with the bowlers. Having now watched lots of video, most of which is taken with one had holding the camera and the other rolling the ball, I am wondering about difficulty. From some of the videos, it seems like a perfect score (or high 200's) could be fairly common. On one video, I heard the guy say the difficulty setting can be changed. I have two questions. First, is the ability to change the difficulty a common feature and second, what is an average score on a game? Assume a 16 footer.
Thanks

I'd be fine with that. And, any adjustability?

It may well be that the adjustment is more of a marketing thing than something one would ever utilize. I'd be happy if the typical score is 170 (picking the midpoint) for an average bowler and say 220 for someone who plays quite a bit. I think I would get bored if a good bowler consistently scores 250+ with a perfect game being fairly common (10%).

Great info, thanks

I'm still on the hint for a ball bowler (bit of a project) (Also have my rifle game up for sale). I'm curious if anyone knows the manufacturing numbers on ball bowlers vs shuffle bowlers. Seems like it has to be at least 10 to 1 more shuffle alley.

Where do you find the cards? Seems like there are tons of different NOS fortune teller cards out there; although I'm sure most would not be the correct size. That is one of the things holding me back from trying to get one.

Thanks, good to know they are out there...just found some on e-bay. I'm tempted to get some, because knowing me, once I finally find a good deal on the holder, they will be unobtanium

It's been awhile since I've had a chance to flaunt my ignorance, but here goes. I'm calling upon all you experts to help with my new project...it's an old acme/advance shock machine. I know it is missing a lot of pieces and I'm not really sure how it needs to be wired; however, my immediate puzzle is a piece that was included, but not attached to anything. Even more interesting, when I try to find images of this machine, most do not have this piece but I found one that did. In any case, can anyone tell me what this is? It's wrapped in a tissue paper underneath is foil.

shockpart (resized).jpg

I was thinking a capacitor; however, the way the machine works is you grab two handles, one of which turns. As you turn the handle, a coil moves on a rod over another coil causing the voltage to increase. I always think of a capacitor as a fast release of energy as opposed to slowly increasing. But I am pretty ignorant about electrical components and circuits.

I think you are onto something....I actually started another thread to see if I can get this thing running. Here it is:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-electricity-experts-acme-advance-shock-machine

You'll notice in the diagram I found, there is something called a vibrator switch. I figured it was akin to a slam switch...obviously I was wrong. I'm not sure if this info gets me closer or farther from figuring out how the thing should be wired but it definitely solves that mystery. If you are feeling like a challenge ...feel free to opine on my other thread. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

I have the Test Your IQ version of the Madame X / Swami fortune teller. When I bought it, the description said it had a couple hundred of the questions in it. Turns out it was loaded with fortunes for the Madame X version. I've been looking a long time for replacement Quiz cards and they appear to be unobtanium. Has anybody ever seen the quiz cards?

Yeah, I actually have a plate for that exact reason. I was hoping to have both a madame X and a IQ Quiz and am still holding out hope that someone, somewhere will find a bunch of the cards. But I'm about ready to say uncle

I was kind of hoping that you would see this as a challenge to find the elusive cards. Finding old pitch and bats for people is nothing compared to this quest! C'mon, I have confidence in you!

I have also restored a Gottlieb strength tester. Both the main part and the part that mounts on it and moves the needle were broken. After much trial and error I was able to 3d print both of those parts. I printed them in straight PLA and they seem to be more than up to the challenge. (I did make that main piece much more robust and it does require you to drill a couple of holes and mount the necessary pins). In any case, if someone needs these parts I can send you the STL or OBJ file and you can print your own. If you don't have a printer, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

It is a really nice shooting game. I'm sure someone knowledgeable will chime in. Lacking that, my take is always focus on the parts that are unique to the game and can't be easily reproduced/fabricated. With that in mind, I'd zero in on the gun itself and the air system that shoots the balls. Stuff not moving, points not accumulating, messed up cabinet, playfield art, etc. should all be fixable. This, of course, assumes you are fine with doing stuff.

As for price, I'm guessing; however, this one is pretty desirable so I'd imagine $2-4k for a project, based on the condition and what all is missing. Good luck, post pics if you get it.

One of the floor models sold on e-bay last week for $350.
ebay.com link: 1940s Mercury Athletic Scale Deluxe Model Strength Tester Penny Arcade Coin op
It was a really good deal, so much so that I was thinking about it; however, I have a countertop model.

There was another one, that was restored for $850? Don't know if that one ever sold. There are lots of countertop models from several manufacturers and from early 1900's to 1960's. Pricing varies a ton, from $300 or so for complete unrestored, common models to over a grand for the rare and/or restored models. Of course, that doesn't stop people from thinking that their 1950's rusted-out countertop model is worth $1200

I'm no expert, but I think if it were reasonably restored...I don't mean pristine, better than new...but painted with a good automotive paint, all parts there, working as it should and a nice dial, you should be able to get at least $600. Part of the problem with these floor models is that they weigh a ton, so your market starts to narrow down to people that will drive to pick it up.

Personally, I would say $375 was a great deal, assuming all the innards are there and it works. If the one I linked had been local to me, I would have put in a bid for it. If you decide you don't want to restore it AND happen to be driving down this way, maybe to the beach or mountains, let me know. I may be interested.

I'm jealous...I've been on the hunt for a mini golf for awhile. Have a Williams Pinchitter, Williams Ten Pins and Genco 2-player bball, so I have a hole that needs to be filled.

Damn, that would even make the janitor we had in grade school jealous. Of course, you need to put all those keys on one of those fancy rings with the retractable chain that you wear on your belt.

Wow, I did not realize that. Very interesting as it opens up possibilities for placing it anywhere since the light can easily be recreated with LED and battery

Hmm, couldn't help but notice nicely lit up under "1st Player"...Looks like someone wrapped their club around a tree or threw it in the pond!

I figure I'll get an old one when grandkids are old enough to play. If I put some toys and $ in it, I'm confident it would get played. However, I don't see it getting much love by adults. That's why, when I do get one. I'll get one of the old purely mechanical ones with a beat-up wood cabinet. First, I can put it anywhere, since it doesn't need power (well maybe a a lamp that I can convert to battery) second, those old ones can be stunning when restored and third, I enjoy woodworking so restoration of the cabinet would be enjoyable.

LOL...conniving little rug rats!

Just finished restoration of my Venus Shuffle Targette...I thought the score reels would never end. Fortunately, I learned my lesson about the paper reels from a previous restore. (As an aside, does anyone carry the replacement paper score reels?)

Venus (resized).jpg

No, they are actually fine...some dark spots, but that gives it character. Just wondered if there was any source for these. Probably doesn't matter as my game room is pretty darn full now anyhow, but I am a sucker for those old arcade games.

Hmm, haven't noticed any excessive heat and there didn't seem to be any telltale signs of it. The load on the motor seems so light that I would think you need to run pretty much non-stop for it to be an issue (like what you probably experience at a show) I was thinking/hoping you may have come up with something like randomized variable speed flash motor to add to the game play.

I really like the game, definitely has that 'one more time' appeal. Something as simple as the flash motor really enhances game play. You focus too much on the throw and you end up with a 10 x 5...or focus too much on the throw and you get a 50 X 1.

I'm having an issue with my Shuffle Targette game. Given that these are a bit esoteric and more like the old bowlers than the typical EM pinball game, I figured I would post the link to the topic I started in the EM Tech support area. I'm hoping some of the old bowler gurus may be able to provide some insight. Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/united-venus-shuffle-targette-intermittent-issue#post-6063287

I'll try to take a pic today.

pics of bowler mechanism

bowler1 (resized).jpg

bowler2 (resized).jpg

I have one as well and that vibrating switch at the top is really the key to making it work. When I got mine, it was in terrible shape, for example, it was missing the timer so I had to jump through hoops to find and mount an egg timer. Anyhow, I continue to futz around with that damn switch.
It works for awhile at various degrees of effectiveness, then doesn't or fades in and out. It is very inconsistent. Maybe I'm missing some component? Please shoot me a message if there is some secret to getting it adjusted properly and keeping it that way!