On the 16 ft. Bally Tournament, an average player may get like 160-180,
on the 28 ft. MBA, maybe 130-150. During gatherings, they both get
played quite a bit.. (T)

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Oh, Sorry Oldgoat. The MBA and Bally Tournament have no adjustment. I have United, Bally, and
Chicago Coin Ball Bowlers, and on those, the only easy, normal, (and maybe Hard) adjustment for strikes
are on the United, but truthfully it really doesn't mean much. Those I have set on normal. Me myself,
a Ball Bowler with or without those adjustments wouldn't have any influence in me picking it up or not..
Bally made some nice Big Ball Bowlers, which I kinda lean toward, but if not to familiar with them, they
can be tricky to work on. United was a bowler Giant, and also made some nice machines. I like many of
the old vintage ones that only score regulation.. (T)

I actually think United had the easy/normal strike settings so the Bar Owner (or whoever)
could have it set to their liking, but when I got in the Uniteds (and there were many back when)
almost all were set on normal strike..
I still have a few out, but back in the 90s, I had many Ball Bowlers out in different places (just
to gather a few extra quarters on the side), and no one ever got a 300 game. I knew the Owners
and I would have known if anyone had. I think the highest game someone got was a 278 on a
20' Chicago Coin. Where that 20 footer was, there was High Score "200 club" sheets that had 100
names to sign, and even with that Bowler getting played a lot, it would take 2 or 3 weeks for
it to get filled, and even on an 11' small ball bowler, a 200 is a pretty good game from what I've
seen, so ball bowlers aren't a piece of cake to get a super high score on. I really don't know of anyone
that can consistently get 250 games, nor 300 even 0.5% of the time. If you live close to someone
with a Ball Bowler, check it out, you'll see what I mean even playing on a small ball bowler.. (T)

Very nice Star Slugger. Bat-a-Score might be the most unique P&B I've played,
but Star Slugger for me is the better player of them all..
Surely a machine to be proud of..

Nice! Not so easy of a machine to get a hold of..
Does yours have a Reo-Stat to weaken/strengthen the Golfer?
Mine has a spot for one, but with no loose wires, it appears one
was never installed..
I plan on putting one in. A weaker swing should give better scores.
Presently the ball elevates higher than it should going up the ramps
thus not hitting the targets squarely..

Nice looking silver. I have some from my metal detecting days. Enjoyful hobby..
I have a couple smaller coin op. The Zipper Skill is fairly common (something
for the top of one of the speakers), but the "Art Show" maybe not so much..
Years back while picking up some Ball Bowlers from an old ex Family owned
Amusement Park owner (1950 - 1969), he unexpectedly handed it to me. There's a
few fine scratches on the old original film, but after going through it, it works fine.
For a nickel you get five pictures of Ladies of the 50s with a little less than
bathing suits on.. SMC from Los Angeles.. (T)

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That'll be one of the highlights during gatherings with Family and Friends..
I like those Bowlers with the larger score reels. Strongly built. Looks nice..
Always liked playing "Dual Flash"..

Those Bally Bowlers from the 50s are right up there as one of my favorites. Built
solid and so responsive..
I have an ABC Tournament and Bally Luck Alley, but no Strike Bowler. The wiring may very
possibly be the same, but don't know about the color code..
If nothing else, Chris at St.Louis Big Ball Bowler may have one.. (T)

That is a nice little line up. That looks to be a 1954 United 5th Avenue.
A nice pre-regulation shuffle..

Just curious. What 16 footer do you have? Those ball bowlers are highlights during gatherings..

And an old woodrail. Chicago Coin, right? Those Shuffles from the 50s have character..
What I found best is after cleaning (vacuuming) the old powder (shuffle wax) off, I Lemon
pledge the formica which slickins' the surface itself, and yes, the Shuffle Wax does eventually
go through the rollover openings, but that's what's used. I used the Sun Glo 2 on the
Shuffle Board, and not so course of wax on the Shuffle Alleys, but now I also use the Sun Glo 2
on the Shuffle Bowlers and seems to be fine. Not much is needed. After Lemon Pledging,
I sprinkle a small amount on the front 3' (or about) so it'll take more plays before it reaches
the rollovers. If the rear rebound rubber is good, it doesn't take much wax (Sun Glo).
On many of the 50s Shuffles, an aluminum tray can be put underneath (in the coven) to
catch the wax and then reused, but a can of wax lasts me quite awhile so I don't bother..
I like the mechanical Skee Balls also. I'm sure they'll both get quite a bit of play during
gatherings.. (T)

I Just checked the Sun Glo products. I presently have 6 (7 with the 22' shuffle board ) different
type of shuffles set up and liked the Speed 2, but after reviewing, I think I'm going to check out
Sun Glo 3. I use to use the slower speed waxes, but went through a can much too fast..
You can always experiment with different speeds, but for sure Sun Glo is what you'll want to use..

No, not many, but I once did have a C.C. 13' Grand Prize and have a C.C. 13' Starfire, but the shortest
Big Ball Bowler that I had was a 10' United. (I think Bonus might have been the name). Had to of been
special ordered..
Except for the Skee Ball, I believe this is the only all mechanical machine (except for its light) that I
have. Probably not that collectible, but midway into Parties, I have seen lines 5 or 6 deep to give it a
try. Always gets checked out at least a few times.. (T)

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Your machine is lacking one of the score reel light sockets? If so, I have some..

That Ball lift is chain drivin', right. Doesn't that motor have a couple
ports to put drops of "3 in 1" oil in?

Yes, that is similar with the two oil ports, and I'm thinking an Aztec also
has those ports. The late 50s and early 60s Uniteds had that type of motor,
and I was thinking the mid 60s would have also..
A couple drops in each port could make a huge difference with a very dry
motor..

The Ball lift runs with a chain and sprocket, not a conveyor belt, right?
Does the bottom gear that the chain rides on turn nice and freely?
If all that checks, you probably don't have a Vari-AC, but with the machine
off, can you cautiously hot wire the motor with 110V?

Yes, and while it's out of the machine, with elegator clips perhaps you can
directly apply 110V to it and see if it still has power while giving the shaft
a little squeeze. Your motor has a fan blade on the tail, right? Does the shaft
move easily when manually turning the fan? Also the lower sprocket at the base
that the chain rides on. You'll want to make certain that it is turning freely.
I take them apart on Big Ball and Small Ball bowlers and clean with carbuator
choke cleaner and repack with wheel bearing grease which holds up well..
Out of many dozens, if the Ball Lift motor's windings were okay, I never had a
motor (both Bally and United) that was bad once oiled, but did have the lower
roller worn where I had to put in a sleeve (1/2" hard copper pipe) to take
out the slack..

For both United and Bally Ball Bowlers, I built pin hoods. The tricky part would be to
make the front tight curve. With that, I made a half moon type shape (or maybe a C
may be a better description) by cutting it out with a band saw. Of course I had another
pin hood to go by. I never had a Bowling League, but have/had plenty of C.C. Big Ball
Bowlers and they made solid bowlers. If the rest is decent and a good price, I wouldn't
hesitate to pick it up.

Had to load a couple pics in the lab top anyways, so I took a snap
of Peppy. It was made for Kids, but of course the Adults have to
give it a try also..

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That's interesting to know..
Harry sure did pick the right occupation for himself. A 100% Natural..
I originally traded in the Peppy to put in the Home Theater that I planned
on having in the upstairs addition until Friends asked me "how many
movies do you plan on watching a year? You need that space strictly
to set up more machines", and I have to say, they are right. I'm not that
much into movies, but still happy I have the Peppy. When some walk by
and catches it out of the corner of their eye, they have to back up 2 or 3
steps to take a clearer look. It is a different type of Arcade piece..

Good score Alex. I had never scene one of them. They must be 8" pins.
I have a Chicago Coin rebound ball bowler with 6" pins, but never knew
of an 8" pin ball bowler..
Looks like the ball return is all gravity..
Or are those 10" pins? If so, must be a late 1955..

In November of 1955, United came out with a 6 player shuffle that scored regulation,
and the machine was named "Regulation". It had 10" pins, and I'm pretty sure
United never looked back to the 8" (8.5") pins.
It's hard to say what year it is, but I'd say late 1953 to early 1955, and yes, 10
to 1 it's the first ball bowler with a ball return. The 4" balls surprise me too..
I like that ball return. That's one that I myself would certainly be hanging onto..

Oh, didn't open that up right away. What surprises me is that United
used 20/spare and 30/strike for its scoring in 1956.
Also, the Formica's graphics look earlier..

One other thing. Is the machine 30V or 50V?

Yeah, if so, that would be late 55, 56. Also, not sure when "Beer Frame" came out, but
wouldn't think it was much before 1956..

A mid 60s United Shuffle. Still had the larger score reels, good deal.
I don't think I've seen that particular title. Looks good..

Playing partners on an old shuffle can be a great time. I remember a whole bunch of
machines ago when I only had the 1956 Shuffle, Pool table, and the ping pong table,
I had at least as good of a time as I do now, but of course being such an enjoyful
Wintertime hobby, the machines will never stop..

I had a Jumbo but traded it before I went through it. 13' for a big ball bowler is short, but being a split
alley, it can be extended. I traded that Jumbo years back and just last weekend I was talking with the friend
that I traded it to and he brought up that it was a contact bowler which I hadn't remembered. It has no
rollovers (or at least that certain Jumbo didn't) and the contacts were in the pin head and he said that they constantly
needed readjustment. Maybe some Jumbo models has rollovers. Does the machine that you're talking about
have rollovers? If not, and you can get it for a decent price, I'm sure you won't lose and can always resell,
or maybe you'll be able to get the contacts to stay in adjustment. I've never worked on an United non-contact
bowler, so I can't say if there's a trick to it or not, but if you do get it to be reliable, it would be a better bowler
especially if an extension to lengthen it up was added. Plus, I think that one has the girl on the backglass which
doesn't hurt its appeal..

I have made them for Chicago Coin Big Ball bowlers, and also all but
the formica for the MBA bowler..
I had goose neck C.C. bowlers, and 13' seem very short. The pins on
the Jumbo aren't so far forward, so it won't seem as short, but if you have
the room, a 20 foot bowler is nice, or at least 16'..

Yeah, $1,700.00 for a nonworking, non-complete common Big Ball
Bowler is much. And yes, not going under 16' is best, although a 14'
small ball bowler, which is the larger standard size for United and Bally
(and I thought C.C. also) is decent size for a 3" ball bowler..
One thing, a small ball bowler is good for all ages. The ball fits pretty
comfortably in pretty much all hands..

I've seen quite a few older United machines, but I believe this ones a first..

That is a nice little machine..
Does it say if Shipman is out of Los Angeles, or
maybe has "SMC"?

I got thinking, and thought maybe "SMC" stood for Shipman Manufacturing Company.
So I googled it in, and found one Art Show like this one from the 50s, and also found
out that they produced a wooden one in the 30s. The company opened in 1932 and
went on into the 60s. I found other vending type machines that they produced, but didn't
spot a cigarette machine like yours. Maybe somewhat rare.. (T)

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Yup, the Art Show has that same logo but so small I couldn't make out Shipman
without a magnifier so then googled, and yeah, sure thing..

I also saw that when I googled and it had a number that I did call to check
if the answering machine gave any info, but more less just the common "leave
a message". I do believe that I read the present one is from Los Angles..

Are you saying when playing a 6 player game, and the 6th player blows, but makes the 10 pin,
the first 5 players will get an extra point?

Yeah, that's what I thought you were saying. I can understand only the
player before, but all 5 on a 6 player game is what makes my eye brows
go down. The last point to score off of the score motor's wiper board would
be the 10 pin. Can't be in the Player-Step-Up-Unit if it only happens on the
10 pin. Is maybe the score motor's wiper board a little off? Assuming the
wiper turns clockwise, can the board be turned a bit counter clockwise?
But still doesn't explain all prior players getting the extra point.
You might have to put the best player last so he doesn't open..

On the ball bowlers, they are both on the score motor's wiper board
so I'm sure it's the same with your machine, but still can't understand
how it gives the previous players all 1 point. By any chance, when this
happens, do the score reels reset relays energize one time?

Actually, all wiper boards should be cleaned and lubed on pinball and bowlers.
Saves a significant amount of wear especially on score and flash motor
wipers (along with their boards)..

I agree. It's my favorite Manikin game..
I have flip the score before, but I'm not sure if I
ever had 80 points with 4 shots remaining..
Maybe the first Player accidently gave the 2nd
Player some added points..

Where did you pick up the Deluxe Shooting Gallery?

There are some Sega collectors out there. They made some good pieces..

On cabinets, the combination I found to work best also!

I thought about maybe fading also, so I do a small area at a time, and as soon as
it does it's job, I wipe it all off right away, and sometimes with a slightly damp cloth
after also..

I have one of these bowlers but haven't yet gone through it. The pins articulate. So I believe when the pins
reset so they're straight up and down, they lock in position. Once hit and out of the vertical position, they
mechanically unlock then flip a switch to the Bank Relay. Not restoring it yet, I may be a little off, but that's
basically how it works. We'll see what B.C. has to say..

That's Scientific Machine Batting Practice, right? Yea, scoop it up!
Years back, when I was still fresh into the hobby, I picked one up for $10.00
Didn't know what I had. Someone took advantage, and I traded it for a C.C. pinball (Bronco)
I do now have another one, but it was much much more than $10.00

Since I'm here, last Sunday I did the completion of a Bally Bowler.
Late September, I took the worse ball bowler that I had out of the
barn and did much sanding and body work. It was missing the pin
unit, pin hood, ball lift motor and belt, and entire head. I pieced a
head together, and dozens of hours later, I have a nicely saved
machine. I'll probably keep this one and put it out. I like those
Ballys. Even the small balls..

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The C.C. Bowler is in a neighboring state, and although I still have three goose neck C.C. Ball Bowlers,
(including a 20' Top Hat), if it was much closer, I'd probably grab it. Since I have more machines than money,
the offer of an EM pin (which I had offer) is still on..
Back in the 90s, I had a C.C. Fleetwood in a bar and it had minor formica crackling. In a couple months, the formica
was in very poor shape (got played a lot). I pre-done new formica on new plywood, and change it right in the bar.
While drilling, all I heard the owner say "Don't Drill Holes In My Floor!!"
It's presently in the local VFW. No graphics on the formica, but it looks okay..

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That does sound pretty darn close. I've moved goose necks multiple times. I'd say the head is maybe 200 lbs. The pin unit lane section,
220. The ball return end (front section), 75. And the ball lift box 80 - 100 lbs.

I'm out East, and although I have many ball bowlers, including two big ball Ballys from the 50s, if within'
driving distance, I'd be making a trading offer. Those Ballys I really like. Built very well..

It counts!, and those look like 6" pins. If so, it has to be one of if not thee last bowler with them.
I thought the 8" (8.5) were out by the begging of 1953. Looks like it has a nice cabinet..

That's funny!, but can understand how that could be true..
My first machine was an United Shuffle from the 50s, and then an United Skee Ball Shuffle for use as a
parts machine, but somehow got that working. Then the pins, em arcades, and whatever else, and finally
had no choice but to slow up, but still always have an eye out..

What pins could you use, the #1 and #3?
I'll be able to help you out. Shoot me an email..
[email protected]

Most likely it's from the 60s or 70s, but could be older. 1974 was the last year of the
mechanical Skee Balls. I'd pick it up even if it's not fully working. Any idea how much he
can get it for?
After taking off the nets, it separates in 4' and 10' sections by removing 2 bolts.
A few years back, a Friend picked up a non-working one for $600.00 I got it straightened
out in a couple hours, and he later on sold it for $1,500.00
Edit: Also, on one of the back doors, there's a 2 digit number that represents the year of
the machine..

Yea, you're right Mark, the mechanics of the mechanical Skee Balls were basically the same right up through to 1974,
and as Alex mentioned, the very first were much longer, like 30 footers, (maybe even 36').
The one I have set up is a 1971. A Friend send a pic of his 1949, and it looks the same as mine. He asked if I had
an extra ticket dispenser, so seems like the dispensers were used in the late 40s, or maybe was a later additive.
Although it's not on, I do have the "Winner" topper..

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Yes, your's has a good characteristic style Alex. I'd trade mine in for one like yours..
While once receiving parts from Skee Ball, they send me a flyer of a machine that looked very much like yours.
It explained that they reproduced a few in celebration of it's 100th year. I think it was like 4k and change..

Watch those floor joists!
You know, one thing I haven't owned was an old vintage crane machine.
I wouldn't mind maybe seeing a video with that baby in action..

Here's the last one that I finished last month. It wasn't the worse, but
was a bit up there..
Restored two last year (late Winter/early Spring, and late Fall/early Winter),
and plan on doing the same for the next upcoming years. Hours of work, but
need the space..

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Thanks, and I have a few more to go including an United "Play Time".
Although most only play regulation (which is the mostly played anyway),
I like the late 50s ball bowlers best. Has character with nice hardwood..
I'm 100% your Play Time will be a huge plus during gatherings..

Actually, unless it's something I absolutely can't say no to, space wise, I can't afford getting anything else in (especially ball bowlers)..
I need to make room in my storage (which are full) so I can empty the upstairs addition which I need to drywall and finish so I can have
the space for the other machines that I so much would like to have set up..
I mainly enjoyed making trades, but I'm going to eventually have to start selling..
Here's the upstairs addition. I have the machines to go through and set up to fill it up. Many of which I've never played and very much
would like to..

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Yup, that's what I've been thinking. Because I basically work on the machines during the Winter months,
there wouldn't be any way to go through every one.. Not to all, but to many, ball bowlers aren't worth
much unless they're properly working, so that's why I restore them..
I'll probably let 1/3 go that's in storage, and that should give plenty of space to empty the addition..

I had an eye out for the pin hood. Bet there may be cigarette burns marks on it.
A lot of stories could be told on these vintage shuffles..
I checked for the Step-Up-Unit, and no luck. Sorry..
Was wondering what those nice looking white side walls might be
going on..

I can say that I owned all the Midway and Bally compressor gun games and still have a couple,
but the Deluxe is one I'm sorry that I let go. I presently know of a non-working one and he's
asking $2,500.00
I know working ones have went for quite a bit more..
If I came upon one in decent shape, I'd see about working out a trade for
a working ball bowler..

It sounds like the Game Over Relay is remaining in the energized position. It also sounds like you're saying that the Start Relay is
resetting, and if so, the Bank Relay must be resetting. You might want to check the Slam Switches. Not sure how many there are on
your machine, but I'm pretty sure that there's one inside the head on one of the sides. If one isn't making true contact, it
won't allow the Lock Relay to energize, which would keep the Game Over relay from energizing..
After putting a dime in, I'm guessing you'll find that the Lock Relay isn't energized..

Earlier in the day, I was in a little rush and actually misread your statement. I thought I read your machine
would not go in game mode..
So, after re-reading, if the Game Over Relay is resetting (which I now believe it is), and the Pin Relays
aren't energizing through the rollovers, I believe on your machine there's a set of switches in both the
Game Over Relay, and in the 1st Shot Relay that should be closed when those two relays are in the
reset position. Not any of the rollovers will activate any of the Pin Relays (in the Relay Bank) if either
of those switches aren't making true contact..

Yes, that jumper does look sketchy, but I wouldn't be concerned with it at this point.
We at least know the Game Over Relay energizes..
After start up, I'm thinking the Lock Relay isn't remaining energized. If not, that would point to a Slam
Switch or burned out Lock Relay coil..
So that this thread isn't being takin' up about repair work, maybe it would be better to start a new thread on your
machine. I'd email direct, but the information could be profitable for future trouble shooting..

Not sure about the labels (certainly wouldn't surprise me), but I do believe the
Super is the more rarer of the three..
Good pick up. I have all kinds of bowlers, and never really was interested in one of
these until I had played one. I now have my eye open. Great machine for a game room..

It's now exactly where it should be. 100% part of the Family..
Was it at your Dad's Shop for quite some time?
I had the same style 7 Up machine and traded it for the same style Coke machine.
Not as many 7 Ups. Should have kept it..

The Mercury counter tops go for a pretty good coin. The floor models come up less often..

You might want to check ebay. A few years back, I seen counter top Mercurys bids exceed $1,000.00
(working), which is why I picked a floor model when the opportunity came around..
I never had seen a floor model example listed, but I rarely check out ebay..

Actually, once energized, the Lock Relay remains energized until the game is turned off.
Chicago Coin's Frame Step Up Unit has a double wiper plate. When turned on, at start up
of the 1st game, I believe through one of the Frame Unit plates after reset is what energizes
the "Lock Relay", and it remains energized until the machine is turned off. Sounds like your
Lock Relay is working fine the way it should be. No problem..

Is that the Game Over coil? When energized, if it stays latched, the coil
will remain energize and eventually burn out..
In the pic it's latched (in the reset position), so I assume for some reason
it stuck and didn't go into the energized position which prevented it from opening
a set of contacts within itself that would have broken the current to its circuitry..

That's the Reset Coil. I don't think it remained energized, so it's probably okay, but it certainly
looks stuck which would cause the (I believe it's the) Game Over Relay not to drop in the reset
position thus wasn't able to break it's own circuitry. That larger Bank Reset coil's plunger shouldn't be stuck
inside of it's sleeve holding the reset bar up. There's another Reset Coil at the other end of the bar,
right? How's that one look and is there any indication that that one is causing the bar to remain upward.
The bar should fall downward on its own weight, but there is suppose to be a spring to help it to do so..

So the machine did reset, but stayed on the 6th player.
Are you sure the coil that got hot isn't burned out and blew the fuse,
or maybe the coil is still okay but weakened the fuse (30V fuse)
and at start up, the fuse blew. I'd check the 30V fuse..

Turning the machine off de-energizes the Lock Relay. Once turned back on, the Game Over
Relay should energize through a set of closed switches in the Lock Relay, then you're able
to give it a fresh restart. Also, once it's off the 1st frame, it should also reset for a new game..

That's pretty cool. Has to be from the 1940s.
Was it your Friend's Dad that had purchased the machines back then?

It sounds like because they were hard to get to, is the reason they remained up there for all
these years. Before throwing away, might there be anything else, even parts? 4", 6", 8" pins
for bowlers. Any old motors maybe kinda hidden. It'd be ashame if things that could be used
got thrown out..

What are you saying, when the game is over, the Game Over Relay remains energized and then buzz?
If so, that relay is not meant to stay energized like the Lock Relay. It'll burn out..
Once the Game Over Relay energizes, there a set of switches within' itself that should break (open) which
cuts its circuit..

I made center extensions a couple times from part bowler lanes. to turn one into a 6 foot extension,
I had to saw off the ball ramp, and replace it with the flat ball return lane. Lots of sanding, but
a 13' bowler compared to a 19' ft. bowler is night and day. Twice I made from scratch an 8' extension.
13' to 21'..

I'm not 100% sure, but what I can say with a fair amount of certainty is that the original puck
for my 1956 United (10" pins) is 2 7/8" My guess would be the same for your machine, however
I have used 2 3/4". Maybe a bit more challenging for strikes, but 2 3/4" works.
Note: The Strike Lines (center to Center) on the 1956 is 2 5/8" I'm almost certain your machine
is the same, thus I heavily lean toward your machine originally came with a 2 7/8" puck, but you'll
just have to be slightly more precise if using a 2 3/4" puck..
Edit: I just looked back and now remembered your machine is a Chicago Coin. I'm not sure about
the width of the strike zones. I would think 2 5/8" but not sure..

Eric, I'm thinking later in the 60s, the strike zone tightened up a little bit and they
went with the lighter 2 3/4" If you're strike zone lanes are 2 5/8" (that's measuring
from the center of both red lines), then I'd have to think 2 7/8" is accurate.
If it was a girl that measured it, 1/8" off isn't bad. Usually anything within' 1/2" is
dead on. Haha!

You can't help but to give that a Thumbs Up!

Rustic with even a vintage park grill. Has to also look nice when the foliage is out..
That I did enjoy checking out..

That has to be a Marti Gras Big Ball. That's a damn good score.
What length is that machine? I think my high score on a goose neck
bowler was 278. That was on a 20 footer (Top Hat)..

1973. The last EM ball bowler produced..

Yea, but that was on Flash..
What size is your machine, 16'?
My best on a goose neck was 272 on a 20 footer..

You were zoned in!
I have a couple in the game room, but they only score regulation,
but I remember the other games. Although mostly playing
Regulation, I remember liking Dual Flash. Some liked Red Pin.
Still have one goose neck set up at the local VFW..

I hardly ever play the old Slot machine, but last night while waiting for bondo to set,
after playing a couple machines, I figured I'd check out the slot for a change. After
dropping in the 3rd nickel, 3 oranges rolled up for a 10 nickel win, which is pretty good
itself. After dropping in the 5th nickel, 2 bars showed in the window then the 3rd reel
stopped showing the 3rd bar. After having the old Mills for 20 plus years, it's the first
time it hit the Jackpot. Not much now, but a little chunk of change back in 1938..

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I like Bally bowlers. This machine is well worth grabbing. It plays bigger than 14 ft.
btw: If anyone may have a couple extra 3.5" balls, I'd be interested to purchase them..

Nice job on the Venus. Any of those Shuffle Target machines are nice players and a plus for a game room.
What, a few of the score reels are not in too good of shape?

Oh, okay. Because if you needed any, I probably could have spared a couple..

Do you mean you had a Venus and did some mods, or you did the mods to the Kick-a-Poo?
I had a Comet, a couple Playboys, a few Venuses, and a Kick-a-Poo which is set up in the
game room. Because of the Shoot Again option, I kept the Kick-a-Poo..
I still have a Venus. Once I go through it, I'm thinking about modifying it so if a 70 is scored,
the player Shoots Again as in Kick-a-Poo. To me, it's a good size plus for game play..

Oh yes. For pretty much non-stop play..
With yours, I thought I spotted a 3rd Kick-a-Poo, but it
must be yours is the one I once saw a pic of at a show..

I never knew Ford was in N.Y.
Same location as back in the day?

Great link. Akron's an easy little drive. The next time in the area, I may check
it out..
Now that I no longer have Dentist Ins., I may have to pick up some Ford gum.
Those employees sure had some pretty white teeth.. haha

Okay, so the #5 pin isn't lifting or scoring. It would seem then that the #5 Pin
Relay in the Relay Bank isn't energizing. If that's the case, I'd check the switches
in the #5 Pin Relay. There's one set that's in its own circuitry that opens when
energized so the coil doesn't remain energized once pulled.
So check the NC switches in the #5 Pin Relay in the Relay Bank.
Note: It may be labeled the #1-5 Pin Relay..

If you're looking for a ball bowler in that area. GRAP IT!

Ball Bowlers are a hit for any game room..
On the Score Motor, the gear box may need to be takin' apart
cleaned and re-lubed, but if you put a couple drops of light weight
oil (I like using Remmington Gun Oil), on the tail of the Score Motor's Armature,
that alone could make a good size difference on the Score Motor's performance.
The tail of the Armature draws in when the motor is energized, and springs back
out as the motor stops running..
btw: Same with the Pin Reset Motor, and of course the Ball Lift Motor has
a couple small copper tubes for a couple of drops to go in..

What size is your Mardi Gras, 16 ft.?
It takes a little time, but I had made center lane extensions
for ball bowlers including Goose Neck Bowlers which two of them
happen to be Mardi Gras. Made both 13 and 16 footers into 21 footers.
If you make a 16 footer into a 20 footer, it's literally like night and day
for the good. That 4 ft. seems like 10 ft..

16 foot's not bad, but on C.C. Goose Necks, the pindeck's much further up
than the earlier ones, which makes 20' a huge plus.
I put a few out, and once I converted the 13 and 16 footers into 20s, they
got much more play. The MBA was 20', and I converted it to 28'. Huge difference
for the good..