(Topic ID: 40372)

Show us your coin door restorations


By swampfire

8 years ago

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  • 190 posts
  • 93 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by dudah
  • Topic is favorited by 87 Pinsiders

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    There are 190 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 4.
    #101 2 years ago
    Quoted from mrm_4:

    Does something need bent or adjusted?

    Did this get resolved?

    3 weeks later
    #102 2 years ago

    Looking to have a stern coin door from a Lighting restored to as close to original. It was painted black. If anyone out there provides this service please PM me.

    #103 2 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Did this get resolved?

    Yes mof I fixed it a while ago. Still doing great thanks!

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-coin-door-coin-reject-flap#post-4323090

    #104 2 years ago

    Just finishing my first 80s door
    Wow lots of work. Not 100% original but what I like. Using wide angle LEDs to illuminate the custom inserts evenly.

    Not as flash as some of you guys but happy with result. Working on some custom inserts for Fathom Centaur Barracora and Firepower at the moment.

    Was missing the Bally coin reject button got some turned up and then I polished them up.
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    4 months later
    #105 2 years ago

    My EATPM coin door restored

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    #106 2 years ago

    This is a before and after from an old River Boat that I'm working on.

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    #107 2 years ago
    Quoted from Pablito350:

    This is a before and after from an old River Boat that I'm working on.[quoted image][quoted image]

    Nice job! Here is my Riverboat coin door.

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    #109 2 years ago

    Nice work guys!!

    #110 2 years ago

    How do you get them so shiny? Karate-kid wipe style?

    #111 2 years ago
    Quoted from Luzur:

    How do you get them so shiny? Karate-kid wipe style?

    Sanding! Started with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000. Finished off with Mother’s Mag. Takes a lot of time, but it’s worth it. I had a lockdown bar that was so bad, I figured I could not make it look any worse. I actually started with 400 grit and worked my way up. It ended up being one of my best looking bars.

    #112 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mikala:

    Sanding! Started with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000. Finished off with Mother’s Mag. Takes a lot of time, but it’s worth it. I had a lockdown bar that was so bad, I figured I could not make it look any worse. I actually started with 400 grit and worked my way up. It ended up being one of my best looking bars.

    So it is just wet sanding? That looks great - I have to give it a shot.

    A little off topic - would a tumbler work well for bringing a shine to post screws or should I just get them plated?

    #113 2 years ago

    WPC
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    Sys 11

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    #114 2 years ago

    Here’s my coin door for my just acquired EBD project. I started with the door since it was something I could start and finish in a day or two. No new parts. I painted the inside skin with silver paint and polished the cast coin chute on the bottom. Almost done here. Outside was done with a various degrees of abrasive pads. I chose not to work on a highly polished finish. I think it came out nice. Typical pictures of shiny things though don’t do it justice with weird reflections.

    Dave

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    #115 2 years ago
    Quoted from Winger03:

    So it is just wet sanding? That looks great - I have to give it a shot.
    A little off topic - would a tumbler work well for bringing a shine to post screws or should I just get them plated?

    Here’s how to do the door and post screws.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restore-tip-making-wms-coin-door-rivetsscrews-shiny-new#post-2837500

    1 week later
    #116 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mikala:

    Sanding! Started with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000. Finished off with Mother’s Mag. Takes a lot of time, but it’s worth it. I had a lockdown bar that was so bad, I figured I could not make it look any worse. I actually started with 400 grit and worked my way up. It ended up being one of my best looking bars.

    There's nothing but wax on that? That's amazing.. Gives me hope. I'm finishing up a Gorgar that was in pretty bad shape, so I was just going to get it working and not worry about it but it's actually coming out looking decent under all the old dirt and working great, and so now I'm starting to care what it looks like! If I can get mine looking half as good as yours, I'll be thrilled!

    6 months later
    #117 1 year ago

    My second coindoor resto using the Bryan Kelly paint spatter method. He suggests using semi-flat for the base and gloss black for the spatter, which I found had a way-too-glossy result the first time around. I used flat black and and semi-gloss for the spatter this time and it looks very close to the original finish. Flat black only for the coin return flap, which had no spatter on it. Had to fix some hacked wiring on the back as well, but it all turned out great.
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    1 week later
    #118 1 year ago

    I just picked up a project. Suggestions for this hard looking door? I’m not sure even evaporust will help this thing.

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    #119 1 year ago
    Quoted from Murphdom:

    I just picked up a project. Suggestions for this hard looking door? I’m not sure even evaporust will help this thing.[quoted image]

    Yes, use the Evapo-Rust on it. You'd be surprised what it can do.

    I use Rust-Oleum # 7213 Silver Hammered spray paint (barcode 020066721381) on that type of door. It matches the original color very well.

    #120 1 year ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    Yes, use the Evapo-Rust on it. You'd be surprised what it can do.
    I use Rust-Oleum # 7213 Silver Hammered spray paint (barcode 020066721381) on that type of door. It matches the original color very well.

    The color was my next question. Whether it was gray or chrome. IPDB has one with a chrome door but everywhere else they appear gray. It’s tough to tell in some pictures. But I thought they were gray on most games.

    #121 1 year ago

    How do you guys address the hinge? I tried painting a coin door (Rustoleum hammered gray) and despite a few light coats, it bunched up in the hinge area and looked like crap once I opened it. Wondering the same for powder coating also.

    1 month later
    #122 1 year ago

    Does CLR pit certain types of metals? I don’t want to take any chances.

    1 month later
    #123 1 year ago

    I got this rusted Meteor door to come up well. Sandblasted then painted the main door parts, and the rest was zinc plated. The coin entry surround was badly pitted so didn't turn out well. Can live with it but will swap it out with a better one, if I can find one.

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    #124 1 year ago

    My firepower door.

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    #125 1 year ago
    Quoted from Jakusu:My firepower door.[quoted image][quoted image]

    That is is insanely good

    #126 1 year ago

    I did this door for my SC this past summer. I spent the whole day on it as I had never done one before.

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    #127 1 year ago
    Quoted from Poida:

    I got this rusted Meteor door to come up well. Sandblasted then painted the main door parts, and the rest was zinc plated. The coin entry surround was badly pitted so didn't turn out well. Can live with it but will swap it out with a better one, if I can find one.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Nice work. Is that coin entry plate in AUD or USD? I was just trying to figure out cost comparison at that time to play a game.

    #128 1 year ago
    Quoted from Murphdom:

    Nice work. Is that coin entry plate in AUD or USD? I was just trying to figure out cost comparison at that time to play a game.

    Yes thats 20c Aussie.

    #129 1 year ago
    Quoted from Poida:

    Yes thats 20c Aussie.

    That’s a deal then. If you were to break it down with inflation it cost about 5 cents USD per game. At that time in the US quarters were already being jammed into machines.

    #130 1 year ago
    Quoted from Murphdom:

    That’s a deal then. If you were to break it down with inflation it cost about 5 cents USD per game. At that time in the US quarters were already being jammed into machines.

    At the start of 1980 the exchange rate was AUD$1 = USD$1.1, so a game on that pin cost the equivalent of 22 US cents (assuming it only required one coin for a credit).

    #131 1 year ago
    Quoted from Manny65:

    At the start of 1980 the exchange rate was AUD$1 = USD$1.1, so a game on that pin cost the equivalent of 22 US cents (assuming it only required one coin for a credit).

    Makes sense. I just looked at inflation as a whole I didn’t consider looking at exchange rates at the time. Dumb on my part.

    3 weeks later
    #132 1 year ago

    Restoring an Astro. Coin door was functional but ugly. A lot of pitting from rust.
    I was just going to replace it with a new one from PBR but since I had some time over the holidays I decided to see what I could do with it. It really needed to be sand blasted but as I don’t have that capability, I went with EvapoRust.
    I soaked it for about 24 hours.

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    #133 1 year ago

    After the EvapoRust I wet sanded up to a grit of 2000. It is still far from perfect but better than what I started with.

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    #134 1 year ago

    Very new at this - doing my first restoration now (1978 Bally Black Jack) and it's about 80% done. For the coin door, I totally disassembled it, used Evapo-Rust on most parts, and tumbled the smaller bits in batches.

    A previous owner hacked up an Atari button to add credits - drilled a hole right thru the skin and backing plate! I'm doing this on the cheap so I opted to keep the button and make it functional instead of spending $80 for a new replacement door skin.

    It may not look like-new and it doesn't come close to some of the fantastic jobs I've seen on this thread, but it's now clean and functional!

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    #135 1 year ago
    Quoted from Vandy89:

    After the EvapoRust I wet sanded up to a grit of 2000. It is still far from perfect but better than what I started with.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    there is hope for one of my trashed doors. I want to try evaporust in my ultrasonic cleaner. It says right on the bottle that you can use it in one.

    3 months later
    #136 11 months ago

    Both my sega pin coin doors definitely have more of a hammered paint finish as opposed to the Williams flat w/ gloss specs. Reading some posts on here it seems like the rustoluem hammered spray paint is hit or miss. Do you think i would be ok with using it or just converting the coin door to the williams flat black w/ gloss speckles?

    #137 11 months ago
    Quoted from Murphdom:

    there is hope for one of my trashed doors. I want to try evaporust in my ultrasonic cleaner. It says right on the bottle that you can use it in one.

    Never thought of that. With the heated ultrasonic it should work great!

    #138 11 months ago

    I got a comet recently and just couldn’t stand looking at the door. Someone had drilled a hole in the door for a credit button just under the lock. Setting#18=0 is freeplay!!!!!!

    Anyway I found a plastic plug at Lowe’s and it even had the texture in it. I think it looks good even considering the plug.

    I did a satin/semigloss black base. Put gloss in the freezer and sprayed it for the spatter texture. This method worked well.
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    #139 11 months ago

    Dont have a before picture, but here's what I did to my streetfighter 2.

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    #140 11 months ago
    Quoted from Chisel:

    I got a comet recently and just couldn’t stand looking at the door. Someone had drilled a hole in the door for a credit button just under the lock. Setting#18=0 is freeplay!!!!!!
    Anyway I found a plastic plug at Lowe’s and it even had the texture in it. I think it looks good even considering the plug.
    I did a satin/semigloss black base. Put gloss in the freezer and sprayed it for the spatter texture. This method worked well.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Plug looks almost factory! Great job.

    #141 11 months ago

    For early Williams Solid State games, I have this add up for the caps that cover the buttons in the coindoor.

    Figure it would be good to link in this thread as a reference for people doing future restos on a door and want these little things.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/coindoor-button-caps

    Firepower door:

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    2 months later
    #142 9 months ago

    Is there anyone with the document for the Bally coin doors, looks like it's ASB-2600-9XX. I found a thumbnail on Marco's and it wouldn't let me blow it up or grab it.

    Also looking for the metal brace that holds the coin switch at an angle below the coin mech. Wish I knew the part number!

    TIA

    2 months later
    #143 7 months ago
    Quoted from NicoVolta:

    Thanks man! $12 for shipping... ouch... but when in a hurry we do what we must.

    I wish these were just $12 for shipping. Just ordered and shipping was $21 It’s the only place I could find those Williams stickers so I kinda had to pony up for my coin door resto

    1 month later
    #144 6 months ago

    Thanks to TractorDoc for the terrific how to guide. This is my Eight Ball Deluxe door.

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    #145 6 months ago

    That came out great, phillyfan64!

    #146 6 months ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    That came out great, phillyfan64!

    Thank you. I still want to replace the 3 light sockets with bayonet style sockets and find a spring for the coin reject bar. Mine is missing.

    1 week later
    #147 5 months ago

    Here is my 1st Coin door restoration. 1976 Chicago Coin CINEMA.

    I think it turned out pretty decent. I have installed frosted Warm White LEDS.

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    #148 5 months ago
    Quoted from Bele20097:

    Here is my 1st Coin door restoration. 1976 Chicago Coin CINEMA.
    I think it turned out pretty decent. I have installed frosted Warm White LEDS.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
    [quoted image]

    Played Cinema as a kid when it came out and yours looks GREAT. Let's see the rest of the game.

    #149 5 months ago

    Just an FYI, you can get that stainless coin slot part absolutely perfect, if you choose. It's just a matter of starting sanding out the initial flaws and patiently working through lesser grits to smooth the surface. You can continue the process with super fine paper (think 2500 grit) and/or steel wools with a final buffing to get a mirrored chrome look (trust me it's stunning) or you can use a flap wheel/3M red Scothbrite to re-grain the stainless (just be aware and keep to the original grain of the stainless).

    #150 5 months ago
    Quoted from Ballypin:

    Played Cinema as a kid when it came out and yours looks GREAT. Let's see the rest of the game.

    These are the most “complete” pictures I have so far. The Playfield is currently being depopulated and backglass safely store await before the triple thick protection and minor touch ups. I plan to do a full restoration post soon

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