Show Time - Can't find Red Button Relay on Schematic

(Topic ID: 207714)

Show Time - Can't find Red Button Relay on Schematic

By minnesota13

10 months ago

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  • 13 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 months ago by minnesota13
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#1 10 months ago

I noticed that the Red Button Relay is energized as soon as the machine is powered on. With the coil wrapper looking rather burned I tried to locate this relay on the schematic but can't find it. I find some contacts associated with the Red Button Relay but can't locate the coil.

Is this relay supposed to be always energized with power on?

#2 10 months ago

The 'Red button Relay' energizes when the Red button is pressed.
It is located at A-10. It stays on because the relay sw. B( at D-10) locks ON, which enables the coil
to latch ON.
*** See manual page 18.
**** If your relay is ON when you Power On..........the above relay switch B may be making
contact. It s/b 'Normally OPEN' not Closed or
Red Button sw.#1 ( at C-10) may be Closed. Both contacts s/b N/O.

#3 10 months ago

Thanks for your response. I overlooked the coil on the schematic and didn't look at the manual.

I went through the Red Button relay contacts a couple of times and all are set and working correctly. I checked the "B" contact wire lugs to make sure they were not touching and all is OK.

The Red Button relay actuates as soon as power is applied. I checked all of the coin door button contacts and all looked OK.
So I disconnected the coin door plug to eliminate the coin door buttons as a cause.

The Red Button relay continued to actuate with the coin door unplugged. I can only see the Anti-cheat relay and Tilt relays as the possible reason for the Red button relay to continue to actuate with power on.

#4 10 months ago

the red button relay powers when the game is turned on because the anti-cheat relay switch is closed at that time (anti-cheat switches are drawn in the just-turned-game-on state - i.e. before the relay powers forever on the first cycle).

the logic behind it is that when you turn the game on, the game should reset when cycled ... even if you hold in the yellow button and drop in a coin. Ditto if the tilt trip relay tripped. With the RBR powered, the shutter will open if it's closed.

if you have strapped down the anti-cheat relay armature so the credits don't get removed between power cycles, then the red button relay won't automatically power when you turn the game on ... you could play for extra balls on the previous game if you wanted to.

the paper coil wrap getting toasted is normal. That's true for any coil that stays on for a while.

#5 10 months ago

Showtime is least fundamentally. It isn't consistent with payouts, and other feature related things, but it starts, loads the balls, increments odds and features and does extra balls. It times out as expected and tilts. It decrements the "replays" upon power-up if replays remain on the counter.

I have a problem getting the backglass out as I don't have keys for the screw locks. Is there a method other than drilling
out side locks?

#7 10 months ago

One quick question. Do most/all of the 50's and 60's bingo machines
have the same key for the back glass side rails or are they unique to
the particular machine??
Terry K

#8 10 months ago


#9 10 months ago

Executed the "break the nut holder" technique as recommended and it worked well. Removed the rail and then drove the pin out holding the lock tumbler in the lock housing and removed the tumbler pins. Re-installed and replaced the pin.

Sadly the backglass has been operator repaired covering the entire backglass with masking tape (excepting the magic square window.) Naturally the tape has yellowed and turned brittle and ugly -- but the artwork remains.

Thanks JKnPA for the link.

#10 10 months ago

I had the same problem with one of my Bingos; I don't think it was my 'ShowTime'
though. I think I was able to get it from the Backcase though...... don't remember!
You need to get access from the Front; its much easier when you can lower the Backcase
and work on it that way. You may have to work on that 'Magic Squares' assy. You will probably find out that
assy. can be a royal 'PITA"....... be careful with that assy. , it has 115volts on it.
"ShowTime' is a great Bingo............ one of my favorites!

#11 10 months ago
Quoted from minnesota13:

Sadly the backglass has been operator repaired covering the entire backglass with masking tape (excepting the magic square window.) Naturally the tape has yellowed and turned brittle and ugly -- but the artwork remains.

the tape was used to prevent scraping the ink off when sliding out the glass, and may also help prevent heat damage and flaking. The glasses I've seen with tape seemed to hold up pretty well, but all them had tape that was is decent shape - maybe a little yellowed, but that just slightly affects the brightness of the light.

if the tape is falling off, is the ink underneath is great shape? If you look from the front, is the ink cracking?

#12 10 months ago

The backglass has kept the art in place, but the ink is bubbled up in some areas. The tape isn't falling off so the only negative is the dimming effect of the lights through the glass.

Some of the bingo number lamps are either not working or burned out. I used a modified piece of car heater nose, reamed out to accommodate the bulb shape. It worked fine in extracting the bulb, but left the base in the socket. Took a pair of needle nose pliers to extract the bulb base. I don't have the correct 20V replacement bulbs so I ordered some from pinball life.

Unfortunately this machine is in rough cosmetic condition. Looking at the wiring and mechanisms it looks like it shouldn't work, but it does. I have replaced the coin switch and installed a 5 cent coin mechanism to match the coin
bezel. The game is working and working better as it gets exercise.

#13 10 months ago

As I continue to work on Showtime, working little problems first, such as the GI lamp under the replay unit wouldn't work. I reworked the socket soldering the socket base to the bracket. That didn't work so I checked for voltage and found none going to the lamp.

Onward I lowered the head mechanism board to the playfield and removed the replay unit to access the lamp wiring. One wire looked good as it went to the GI lamps that were working. But the other wire went to a loose wire that I followed to a open switch mounted to the base of the head directly behind the bottom of the head mechanism board that was lowered.

I couldn't determine how the switch was activated until I found a secret button well hidden under the left side of the head.
I assume this was somehow a protective method of hiding replays, until payout time. Push the button, note the number and power cycle the machine.

Picture of the switch and button follow.

P1000403 (resized).JPG

P1000404 (resized).JPG

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