Langhorne, PA
Quoted from stateworker37764:Here is my 1989 Bally's Mousin Around done in yellow.
That thing looks great with the yellow! I didn't really like the look of MA, but I'd definitely display yours. Great job.
(Topic ID: 155473)
Linked Games
AC/DC (LE)
Stern, 2012-
AC/DC (Premium)
Stern, 2012
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Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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Attack from Mars
Bally, 1995
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Batman Forever
Sega, 1995
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Baywatch
Sega, 1995
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Big Bang Bar
Capcom, 1996
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Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
There are more than 8 games linked to this topic.
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1 month later
Quoted from MustangPaul:Hey that looks great. If your interested here's a couple of pictures of a Pinsiders Ironman with my amber Leg light-ups on. I have other colors available also.
Paul, I see one of my keychains on his IM...whose is it?
5 months later
Quoted from Redketchup:powder coat classic stern!
Very nice!!! I love seeing older SS games powder coated. However, I think you might want to sell/ship your Iron Maiden to me 
. On my wishlist forever, and don't come across it often. Nice line up.
Need a little input if you guys/gals don't mind.
Given my obvious infatuation with vampires, some of my games are keepers (or at least should be). After looking on here, I was debating on powder coating my Bally Vampire and Stern Dracula. Any thoughts on whether I should (assuming I don't mind spending the money to powder coat lower level SS or EM games), or which colors would look optimal? I think purple or metallic purple on Stern Drac might be a bit much with the amount of purple in the cab already.
The bonus...Vampire has the classic early Bally one piece armor integrated with the smaller PF glass, so I could literally just pull the entire thing off and deliver it and the legs for coating. The possible downside...just not sure on PC'ing this one, especially as Vampire is rare with very low production of 799 units. Thoughts?
(sorry about poor lighting when these pics were taken)
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1 week later
Quoted from Zitt:What about "blood" red?
It's hard enough keeping these things out of the sunlight so they don't burst into a puff of smoke. 
Quoted from rotordave:I wouldn't be doing it, personally. I prefer classic games to be ... "classic".
But it's over to you at the end of the day. You could always get a second cartridge to powdercoat and keep the original one. Legs are dime a dozen so no worries there. The job wouldn't be un-reversible that way.
I have usually preferred them to stay "classic" as well. Would just like them to be very nice examples with some extra touches. Don't plan on selling them anytime soon, but you do never know. And I agree with being able to undo Vampire with a second cartridge. Good call. Thanks for the input lads.
3 weeks later
Quoted from MustangPaul:Yeah well if I'm gonna spend that kind of coin I want a "little" flash for my cash. You should see my gameroom.
Like a mix between a 70's disco club and Tron. LOL.
3 weeks later
Quoted from rotordave:Everything was rusty as hell on this machine. It must have been stored in some crappy wet warehouse for years.
All these bits were blasted and then powdercoated in gloss black.
That thing looks sweet RD. I like how the black practically hides the ramps and makes them blend in. Did you just use acrylic for the ships?
Quoted from J85M:Thanks for the reply RD, yeah sorry I should have been more specific and been clear I was talking about the wireforms but I made that post at half 3 in the morning after getting back from a house fire so proof reading wasn't even a consideration
I wouldn't do any type of metallic flake on the wireforms. All the ramps in my BF were redone, and they have held up relatively well (and I play the shit out of that game, as do most guests). The PC guy went a little lighter than the green I had suggested and presented to him (which was close to factory), but it still looks great. I know Paul recently had his redone also along with his armor, I think in purple. Stick with a solid color, and make sure they coat the hell out of them. I have a few nicks and trails in mine at this point, but they still look great compared to what they were.
1 week later
Quoted from Skins:I powdered my own coin door hinge as well as light panel hinge in the head and didn't have any chipping whatsoever. Non-issue.
That Flash Gordon cabinet and backbox looks sweet. Very nice job so far... 
2 weeks later
Quoted from ryandimx:Did you ever get any of these done?
Working on it now...just started tearing down the Bally Vampire. Hopefully they can get it done right with the rails/ld bar framing in one piece. Looks like I'd have to pop rivets to get it apart, and would probably scratch the shit out of it putting it back together. Changing the PF glass on these one piece Bally frames is a PITA enough by itself. I'll definitely post a few pics here once it's done.
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from Blackjacker:Be warned: once you go there...
I know. LOL 
3 weeks later
Quoted from hd60609:I 'm pretty sure he means that changing the t-molding is addicting. Once you do one, you start doing more to complement or contrast the new powder coating. Been there, doing that!
Quoted from bronco-jon:My bad....I thought he was referring to getting it from Marco's
I think he was referring to something else and that's the way I took it, but I'll leave it at that.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Cserold:What's the consensus on also doing the chrome on the coin door when adding chrome to a WH2O? I've got one over at HEP and need to make a call on this soon. Thanks for the opinions.
As others said, I think WH2O with a chrome coin door would be awesome...see the one back a page or two. It beyond pops.
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Quoted from ita47:I just finished these two up and finally get to post some pics in this thread, ton of work but worth it!
Quoted from Stones:Really like the white on the Cowgirls pin
I really want to say nice job on the first pin, but just can't do it. I think it would look great if you scratch the cab artwork and replace the translite with this... 
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from chuckcasey:About how much is everyone paying for legs, side armor, hinge and lock down bar?
By looking, most do a two stage with base powder and then clear powder.
For legs, LD bar, siderails (w/ two carriage bolts), and hinges (w/ two bolts), you're usually going to spend anywhere from $110 to $200, depending who you use and whether shipping charges are included. I usually just get new siderails when I PC parts, due to dings and damage already there, potential damage when removing them, left over double sided tape, etc. It's just easier, and only adds $45 or so.
Got my BSD parts back from Ron at Pinball Plating & More last Thursday...and had to get them on. He does excellent work. Finally had some time today, so here was the chronology (well, more or less...10.7% will make you forget to pick up the phone to shoot a pic here and there):
Quoted from MustangPaul:Just clear for me.
^^^+1
3 weeks later
Quoted from Plumonium:Can the lock down bar and side rails be nickel plated? How does it compare to chrome plating in looks and cost?
Chrome is sometimes too much bling and nickel is usually a few notches below in shine.
Ron at Pinball Plating & More does nickel finishing. It is definitely less shiny than chrome, but seems to come out pretty good and usually costs a little less. From what I've seen, still pretty substantial cost, more than powder coating.
Quoted from neverahighscore:BSD in Black Powder Coat!
Quoted from neverahighscore:I had one in red trim and it just never looked "correct". I think the problem was the red in the original cabinet decals was a hard match.
Quoted from Micky:red doesn't quite look right on a BSD.
Enough with the red powder bashing!!! LOL. I think I matched my red pretty damn close to the original cabinet art (mine has no fade), so I think it looks very cool and accents the game well. I can see how some people would say it kind of "outlines" the game. I think the black looks great too...especially with the aftermarket decals. I think Rockland had one with those decals at Pinfest last year...and I know there's also a box/crate artwork you can get (light brownish). I remember they had one powdercoated red with those decals, and that just didn't look right at all.
Quoted from neverahighscore:Love your avatar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quoted from Colsond3:Thanks...the model that posed for the photo set is absolutely friggin gorgeous.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Feel free to post pictures of her.
As requested...not trying to derail the thread
Even my avatar does not do her justice with the way the site cropped it down. Her name is Rachael Weathers.
Quoted from jokerpoker:Some more chrome from my old collection a few years back for the chrome connoisseurs fiberdude120. But then you need to play with these on if you have bad OCD like me
Sorry back to powder coating lol
My buddy used to make us play with gloves on. LOL.
CV looks sweet, so does Joker Poker and Royal Flush. We had a chrome decked out CV at my shop last year, I should've taken it home. I started a resto thread on my Bally Vampire, and I was considering chrome. Please go into the thread and add a chrome vote to my pole... I could use some back up. All the purists are voting/telling me to keep it original, but some of the metal is pretty tarnished. Looking at your games, especially an EM, it's definitely making me lean towards chrome.
1 month later
Quoted from Chosen_S:Does anyone know where I can get the white armor for ghostbusters premium?
I think The Pinball Company carries it, or even Marco.
1 week later
Quoted from Butch2099:Anybody know exactly what color white is used on the Ghostbusters armor?
Quoted from Chosen_S:I'd like to know this too
A friend of mine told me that it was clean white from Prismatic.
But I would just contact one of the suppliers and ask them to be 100%.
Quoted from rotordave:I've just finished my Star Wars Pro ... done in blue to match the headbox trim and the lock bar button surround.
rd
Star Wars with Chris Pine? I haven't Seen that one. 
Quoted from MustangPaul:Man that's a lot of pieces.
Yeah man, hoping to have one of the nicest Vampires out there when I'm done. Rare game...well deserved.
When you start powder coating the bs sheet metal covers for the leg bolt receivers, you know you have issues.
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Quoted from rotordave:I've just finished my Star Wars Pro ... done in blue to match the headbox trim and the lock bar button surround.
rd
Just busting chops. ST Pro looks really good man. I saw one in yellow a few months back, and I have no idea what that person was thinking.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I gotta see it when it's done.
Definitely. I have a resto thread going. Check it out. Starting the cabinet this week. PF getting cleared as we speak.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I know me too, just havin some fun. YELLOW??? The guy mush have a VERY strange sense of color.
Yeah, like...colorblind. Maybe he was trying to pull the colors from or accent the instruction cards.
Quoted from golfingdad1:Anyone ever do something with a Baywatch?
I saw one done in yellow in one of the other threads...maybe bigd1979's? Don't remember off the top of my head.
Quoted from golfingdad1:How about Brass ?
That could look great, might double the cost of the pin.
That would probably look pretty good, would definitely be a little pricy to do.
Quoted from ImNotNorm:I looked through the thread and didn't see a street fighter 2 that's been powder coated.
Just wondering if anyone has and what color they used??
Ask CrazyLevi via PM.
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Not a fan of the red. Thanks for sharing though
I actually like the red on that game. To each their own, but it does fit the theme and art like rotodave said. I like when armor pulls out the colors from the cabinet.
Quoted from ImNotNorm:No thanks
LMFAO...my suggesting you asking him was pure sarcasm because it's his least favorite game. Still laughing.
Quoted from J85M:I am pretty sure I saw someone on pinside able to apply some sort of coating to plastic parts, i.e. plastic gun handles/shooters.
Anyone else remember seeing that and who it was or what process it was?
Ron at Pinball Plating & More was doing it, but he recently sold his company off to Chris who runs HRA.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:What is the price point on doing the legs, siderails and lockdown bar in , say, a gloss black? These look soooo good!
Usually between $120 and $175.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:for the whole set, or each piece? That seems like a steal
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:I just paid $140 for 14 pieces to get coated in gloss black for my AFM.
I usually just get new siderails for WPC games...which adds about $65 - $70, but always worth it in case of damage or bending of the originals when removing them.
For those that haven't jumped into my resto thread, I started the reassembly on my Vampire. PC'd a ton of parts on this game already, and still have some to do inside the cabinet and from the transformer/mech board. I was trying to keep some things original, but I'm half tempted to redo the upper top apron in illusion cherry also.
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Quoted from Rdoyle1978:That seems smart; I've seen a bunch of posts talking about how tough they can be to remove.
How about the lockdown bar? Do those need to be polished and scratch-free before the coating is applied?
Nope, not at all. They sandblast first. Just remove the beer strip.
3 months later
1 week later
Not done the resto yet, but most of the powder coated parts put back on. Posted in my other thread, but thought I would share here too.
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Quoted from Stones:Holy fak, looks gorgeous!
Thanks man. I'm really happy with the illusion cherry. I think it adds a nice accent to the game, and brings out the reds on the PF, BG and plastics.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Holly Shzt! That is awesome. My Zip A Doo had the same coin door, but I couldn't get it nearly as nice as yours. Powder coat helps I guess, but I haven't been able to get the rust off the non-powder coat stuff that well. I'm still learning.
How long did that take you?
There's detailed info in my resto thread, so I would check that out. I posted a few pics below, but didn't' want to clog this thread up with all of them. It took quite a while, and Bonehead Performance did all of the powder coating.
My coin door was in horrible shape, so it had to be totally redone. I stripped every part off, then had the skin and carriage bolts PC'd in glossy pearl black, the coin returns and bezels in PC chrome (not as bright as actual chrome, but 1/8 of the price), and the trim and various parts on the back in illusion cherry with black speckling. I polish the rest of the mechs the best I could with steel wool and a Dremel.
The coin door skin on this style of Bally games was painted some type of dark gray or flat black right out of the factory, so you can't really polish or refurb it easily without painting it.
And if you're going to repaint it, you should really just PC it glossy black so it holds up for a LONG time. I still have to grind down the coin return buttons/posts that go under the bezels, as PC'ing them made them a little thicker.
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1 week later
Thanks guys....it's been a long road, and the first 20 games I just played felt awesome. Played a few the other night when I got it together, but it had a few issues.
Whoever says they don't like clearcoated playfields, didn't play a game with it done right. I put up a few videos on the Tube, links in my restoration thread. Back to playing
1 month later
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Quoted from Da-Shaker:I finally got my LOTR back together. I wanted to go with something different, and picked Transparent Copper.
Nice. You should grab gold leg protectors from PBL. I have them on my Frank.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Nah....my leg Light-Ups look better. Amber would look great.
It looks especially good given that you have one of my keychains on there. 
If your key sits in the horizontal position when locked, you should get rid of all the other rings and just leave the small one I included. Then they don't hang so low.
3 months later
Got the powder coated legs back today, and was finally able to erect this beast (that’s what she said ). Chuck at Bonehead Performance kicks ass...two day turnaround on the legs.
Also rewired the game over hologram.
Any thoughts on powder coating the metal panel under the joystick controllers? I might do the coin door in white also.
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5 months later
Quoted from rotordave:Also - if they go over the old textured finish, you’ll be stuck with a textured finish.
Anybody have a pic of a game with this done? I was always curious how powder coat would turn out on Sterns and old DE games that had textured armor.
1 month later
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:Does anyone happen to know the RAL number for the more common purple power coating used on MET games?
I have PB Refinery on mine...send him a note. He might provide the RAL.
B794D7E5-41B4-4E81-B3BF-D57A29CE9076 (resized).jpegEA2BDBBE-1E50-45D3-9CAB-9B253B0C67A7 (resized).jpegQuoted from MustangPaul:How close to real chrome does pc chrome come in look?
If you remember Paul, I used some on my Vamp. It is definitely more dull than true chrome, almost a little grayish. It is a little shiny though, but not something I would use if you want that true chrome shiny look.
4B446FED-DF67-4E3B-ACAC-E49720A9533A (resized).jpeg625A7128-A298-4C69-9439-EDFA308D5709 (resized).jpeg9F999B26-1DF3-4EFD-A3C7-5180ACC3CD11 (resized).jpeg27F31787-5F0E-4005-8B68-BEF8E9ECCE0D (resized).jpegQuoted from MustangPaul:Thanks Colson, looks like I'm gonna have to get real chrome.
Yeah, it looks good and it’s reflective, but nowhere near as shiny as the real thing.
1 week later
Got some other parts back too...apron and LD bar for Kiss, still waiting on siderails
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Old Sega arcade coin box
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Legs for Superman...
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1 month later
Working on Superman...wanted to try something different. My flush snips broke a few months back, so still have to do the armor in traffic red to match. Before and after:
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Looks good on this 1.
Ironically I sent Dave a pic of it last night and told him that you would love it. 
1 month later
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:Just finishing up my #F-14 Tomcat , have some plastics with new artwork left to put on the playfield, but the powdercoat is done, complete with red, white and blue wireform ramps.
I’ve seen the red done on F-14 before, and really diggin it. And like the patriotism on the wireform color selection. Good job on this one all around.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Look at illusion cherry. Be close and richer
I did my Vampire in illusion cherry a while back. I had asked because i thought EATPM looked close.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-vampire-restoration-input-suggestions-welcome
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You bastard! I know you always love a clear shot. 
D55247C2-A452-4BA6-84B6-DAC2C34B6E0E (resized).jpegDF3FDCE8-C0D5-4972-9105-3A940B8E8DA5 (resized).jpegQuoted from neverahighscore:I'm blind again for the day. I think that colors official name is "wrong red"!
Yeah yeah...I’m sure the 150 people that played it and the 25 or so that offered to buy it last year at York thought the same thing.
Next time you’re polishing the untouched black and chrome armor on your games, let me know. I have another knob for you to polish.
Quoted from MustangPaul:That was great following your build on that game.
Definitely Paul. Thanks for hanging and the help/input during the process.
I’m going equally nuts with powder on the Halloween retheme I’m working on. Check that thread. Dropped off just “a few parts” a little while back. 
Should have them back soon...
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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/halloween-jc-retheme-this-is-gonna-be-killer
Quoted from pindaze:Pearl white Dr. Dude
[quoted image]
Can’t say I’ve ever seen a Dr. Dude done. I’m likin the white.
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1 month later
Trip to the PC this morning. Rest of the parts for Superman, the armor/coin door for Halloween and some other stuff done. Still have another two boxes to pick up. Stoked to get some of these games back together!
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Thanks man...Now I just need a perfect apron and a little work on the cab stencils.
3 months later
Just got back a good amount of the parts for the GTB Spiderman I’m restoring. Metallic red metallic blue.
5CC3C9DF-B2FC-46BC-AF71-509C03CEA6F3 (resized).jpeg60D0C73F-3784-4678-BCDD-6E6168247B9F (resized).jpegC800FC3D-1573-4FAB-9D1D-D4F682200718 (resized).jpegE0D5074A-98BD-4FC3-B1D4-E5CC97667527 (resized).jpegQuoted from neverahighscore:Just finished my Playboy with the Pink Powder coating from Back Alley Creations. I like the brass plating/pink mixture combo.
That brass looks sweet as hell man. Pink is a nice accent.
Quoted from volkdrive:Pinbot. Going to move the red blue theme out of the GI next. Have a combo x-pin display to put in. Went black silver sparkle with the top and blue red leg combo.
I usually don’t like the split colors much, but that looks freaking awesome.
Where did you get that shooter rod on your MET?
4 months later
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Is there a time frame to allow it to set up?
Did you use the 2-stage clear? If it is 2-stage, it should have a clear coating on the top, but it is still susceptible to light, fine scratches if the wrong cleaning agents/supplies are used.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Is there another cleaning method to avoid this?
You need a small, fine microfiber cloth for armor and powdercoated metal. The larger microfiber cloths are still even slightly abrasive, and can leave fine scratching. Even if you use the softer side.
And especially combined with Windex or other window cleaners. I use Flitz and a small micro cloth. I get no scratches, and it creates a coating of polish that makes cleaning just a quick wipe down for a good while after.
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Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Would a coat of good wax hide / eliminate the ultra fine scratches?
You should be able to buff them out.
9 months later
3 months later
Quoted from adam12hicks:I'm curious - does the powdercoat chip or flake when tightening down the leg bolts? Has anyone used clear nylon washers or the like to protect them when re-assembling with the newly powdercoated legs?
Yes, it will (or can) chip if you torque them down. Good powdercoating is pretty resistant and durable, but not to grinding force.
Definitely use nylon washers, and put your thumb and middle finger at the bottom of the socket as you ratchet to create a cushion when you’re tightening them down.
2 months later
Quoted from Paseb:Need idea for an hurricane
I’ve seen one done in orange that looks pretty nice, but it had new decals. Faded decals with orange might not look as great.
Gloss or mirror black would probably look great, and brighten up the playfield.
Quoted from Paseb:not sure orange as there is none in mine lol
i was thinking black with funky stuff in it.
but gloss or mirror black could be good as well
I would go with gloss or ink black. I’ve used gloss black on a lot of games I’ve done.
Unless you want something more loud. Then you could go gloss black with orange or red speckling. Or even yellow?
3 weeks later
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Both done by Robert Stone here on pinside. Great work !
Hey! You can’t switch your haunted house avatar!
I love MET in purple. Welcome to the club!
10E13A4E-3B39-48FE-AE99-D2196406CC86 (resized).jpegC460D17B-2DF7-4FE3-96CB-21D4E0097CA2 (resized).jpegQuoted from volkdrive:Any ideas for No Good Gophers? Was thinking just black or blue rails and bar with green legs to match the cab? Its a different color scheme, so a bit of a challenge.
That is tough. Light blue armor to match the sky and then green legs to match the green on the cab probably would look good.
You might be able to get away with doing all dark green, like the green on the bottom most part of the cab?
1 month later
My Halloween coin door came out good. Love me some Illusion Cherry and Gunmetal Gray.
Just need a better eject button and have to polish the chute flap.
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I’m sure some of you have seen it in the other threads, but here is the Safari I just got done restoring. Mirror black and Traffic Orange.
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Quoted from Mattyk:If I was to bring my parts to a company to get powder coated, is there anything specific that I make sure they do in order to have a finish that will not show wear?
Is there a special finish I should ask for?
I plan on powder coating over some stainless legs, rails etc.
Make sure they do proper prep and sandblasting. Some places include it and others charge a little additional, usually $5-$10 per part (for large parts…legs, siderails, etc.)
A good one or two stage powdercoat, when done right, is usually pretty chip resistant and resilient. You can also request a clearcoat, which obviously protects the underlying powder. Clearcoat is not always necessary, but can help it to shine more if you a select a dull color. But most people use glossy colors.
Once done, make sure you clean them with a very soft microfiber cloth. I use the cloths they make for computer screens, sunglasses, etc. If you use anything even mildly abrasive, you can get finite scratches that can’t always be buffed out.
Quoted from Pinkitten:I had a few old, original lock bar receivers that I had replaced when upgrading or restoring 90’s WPC pins. Instead of buying more new for $90 or so, I sent them to Steve at Pinball Refinery to have them resurfaced and powder coated.
Nice. Smart on your part. It’s amazing how similar our BSD’s are.
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Quoted from Tuna_Delight:My IMDN:
The Maiden is super sick!! Especially the coin door. Awesome job Tuna. Let me know when you’re ready to sell it.
1 month later
Quoted from Mathazar:Here's a Meteor restoration I did last year....
Quoted from Mathazar:And here's a Black Knight restoration I finished in February....
Super sweet restorations on both. Awesome work.
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