(Topic ID: 155473)

show off your powder coated machines here!

By Stones

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,002 posts
  • 354 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 84 days ago by shlap
  • Topic is favorited by 173 Pinsiders

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#94 8 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Ok - I guess this does exist:
http://www.prismaticpowders.com/colors/PPB-4623/BLACK-CHROME-II/
I'd love to see how this looks!

It doesn't work. You need like 8 stages to get that color to look like it does in the picture. Can't put that level of thickness on thin pin parts without serious orange peel. I do NOT recommend it. There is another called speedway gray that looks amazing and has a small sparkle. Speedway black as well. Same thing but a bit darker.

#95 8 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

When the lockdown bar is powder coated , do they also do the backside ? How thick is it ? Does it affect locking it down ? Also, has anyone ever had the lockdown bar receiver powercoated ?

Yes. Yes. 1/32nd" per stage, no, yes.

#97 8 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Awesome response !! lol

glad I could help. Lol.

-9
#117 8 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Star_Trek: The Mirror Universe
Black w/ Holographic flake
https://www.flickr.com/photos/52968060@N00/13212270615/sizes/o/

That powder looks like it was done in a backyard with no surface prep. The orange peel is some of the worst I have ever seen. That's due to a multitude of factors:

Poor surface prep (no chem dip for example)
Not enough charge (Like someone using an eastwood gun or something from harbor freight)
Uneven heating or low temp melt. ( < 400 degrees evenly )
Too thick of an application coupled with poor heating.

I would take that to whoever did it and rip them a new one and have them re-do it. It should be smooth as glass.

-12
#128 8 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

You also forgot to mention that the powder was like 5 years old w/out any humidity control... so the black wouldn't stick because of that. That it was done last minute at Techshop on Sunday evening before TPF.

Humidity only impacts the longevity of the powder, it has nothing to do with its adherence. It could be 90% humidity and it won't make a difference. Powder isn't "powder" at all. It's plastics, polyurethane, and various resins. The poor coverage is due to poor equipment and prep. You can't use a cheapy harbor freight gun on a large piece of metal like a leg or a lockdown bar. There isn't enough charge to make the powder adhere properly.

That's the "best pinball in texas"? You guys have low standards

-3
#152 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Man...you have been here long enough and now better then to post this kind of statement. We're here to HELP each other enjoy the hobby not talk shit about others work. If you don't like something just don't say anything.

If the guy paid for it he should get his money back. Some folks don't know how it should look and think that's "a good job". It's not. It's really bad. Sorry for trying to educate people on what to expect from a proper professional job.

#154 8 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Clueless - as in the amount of work in STMU... not in Powdercoating.
IE in RE: to "best pinball in texas? You guys have low standards"
Sorry; but any professional that proceeds to rip into the homebrew crowd because they feel like they are elite; is clueless... and well; someone that won't be getting my business.

The ONLY thing I was talking about was the powder. You at no point in your original thread said YOU did the powder. Most won't even come close to attempting it so the thought that you paid for that quality of a job is something I thought you needed to be reimbursed for because it does not look like it was done properly.

Since you did it yourself I'll retract that statement but you need supplemental charge to get the adherence required to stop the orange peel. Also drop your psi down to 22-24 on application because it's wavy likely due to inconsistent spray pressure.

#157 8 years ago
Quoted from marcd:

Guys, I have a newbie question. If I want to have my original Stern Armor (balck) powder coated to a different color, should it be sand blasted first ?

The person you send it to will blast and hopefully dip your parts so that the powder adheres properly.

#158 8 years ago

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#162 8 years ago
Quoted from PanaPinResto:

I have a question for those who do their own powder coating. Where do you buy your powder and is there a difference in brands?
Is there someone who sells high quality in small quantities? I've never had trouble with what I'm buying but I'm new at this so what do I know?
I usually buy 1/2 or 1lb bags of powder. Lately from powderbythepound. A 1lb bag is enough to do a whole pin with some left over.

Prismaticpowders.com is where you should buy from. 1lb should not be enough to do a whole pin. Takes approximately 1.5-2lbs depending on if you do the coin door and hinges. Go a little thicker if you are only getting .75lbs on a pin.

#165 8 years ago
Quoted from PanaPinResto:

Thank you sir. I will do that.
So why are prismatic powders better? Have you used powderbythepound pound? You would know better than I but I'm just curious what the difference is.

They are both good and there is definitely some overlap in what they sell but you will find more custom and unique colors @ prismatic. While its a bit more expensive the quality is there. Not sure as to the cost to ship to panama though.

#167 8 years ago
Quoted from PanaPinResto:

Their prices are better than where I've been buying and I like the site better. I'm going to order a black and try it.

Ink black is the color you want. Its a 95+/- depth.

http://www.prismaticpowders.com/colors/P-0106S/INK-BLACK/

#169 8 years ago
Quoted from PanaPinResto:

What about epoxy powders. That's what I've been using on my machines. I read it held up better and was fairly good with UV exposure. Is epoxy overkill, ok or the wrong stuff to use?

It's way overkill for a pin and it's caustic/toxic when its heated so please make sure you ventilate properly. Also the color choices aren't as wide as your standard poly powder.

#171 8 years ago
Quoted from PanaPinResto:

I have a DPO address. Costs the same as shipping to florida. Otherwise I'd be screwed. There are no addresses in panama. No post office. Nothing. If your local and you want to order international it's really expensive.

If you are are US Service Person, thank you for your service!. PM me if you have any additional questions.

#173 8 years ago
Quoted from PanaPinResto:

I have an exhaust fan and plenty of fresh air.
I'll try some other products if epoxy it overkill. I have found the epoxy to be virtually indestructible.

All powder done properly should be as well. We do about 4000 wheels a year here in the north east. Road salt and harsh winters/potholes and none ever come back for finish rework.

#177 8 years ago
Quoted from pinmister:

I thought the Simpsons that Hemi-Pinball Refinery did turned out awesome. The nuclear green is perfect for the theme. It makes me want to own a Simpsons just so I could pimp it out. MMMM....

AKA Shocker Yellow.

-1
#180 8 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Wha? There is an entire post devoted to the powder coating of the lockdown bar and siderails.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-mirror-universe-pinball/page/8#post-1527720

Maybe you do but most don't have time to read every post on pinside. Especially surrounding a theme I loathe.

#234 8 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Some amazing looking pins in this thread
Just wanted to ask you guys who have done your ramps what method holds up best for metal ramps, plating or powdercoating? My Goldeneye ramps need restoring and I was going to get them replated but looks like a lot of people in here have powdercoated their ramps, just wanted opinions from people who have had experience. Thanks

Just to be clear. You can powder coat wireforms... do NOT powder coat ramps. You will get ball trails and huge problems after some gameplay. There is a reason why no vendors do it.

-2
#241 8 years ago
Quoted from Tilt:

If so, then why did the company that you work for, JJP, take away the powdercoat on the wireforms for hobbit?
Myself, I have powdered wireforms and they turned out great and held up just fine. But your boss says otherwise

Because you can't use an artery/vein/texture on a wire form? Common sense.

It is also apparent you can't read. I said doing wireforms is fine. RAMPS you can't/shouldn't do. You do know the difference right?

#243 8 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

If I were to guess....cost.

And your guess would be....wrong. That has zero to do with it.

You can't use a texture on a wireform. Mixing color schemes didn't work properly. Chrome was the best option aesthetically given the textured armor.

#248 8 years ago

Vidgame you are absolutely ridiculous as always. Shall I paste the previous threads that shows your axe to grind and why no one should take what you say seriously?

You have obviously seen the game. You know the powder has a texture. You can't put a texture in the path of a rolling ball and expect it to move fluidly. That's common sense to ANYONE powder coating savvy or not. Everyone who has ever driven has gone over a speed bump with its sole purpose being SLOWING down what hits it. Textured powder is all speed bumps. Again COMMON SENSE. And I already said that mixing colors did not look good. Aesthetically chrome looks better than mis matched powders. Plain and simple.

#252 8 years ago
Quoted from Goalie:

Here's mine.

IMG_1768_(resized).jpg

I like that JP.. nice.

#256 8 years ago

By "miliseconds." SMH.

Wow. Look at how rough that ball travels down that wireform back to the flippers. That's awesome. Said: no person ever.

I'm sorry but if you can't grasp the simple notion that adding chaos to a moving sphere at speed traveling down a pre determined path with little room for error is a bad thing then there's nothing more to say.

1 week later
#308 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well I found these 2 reds, they would match the sky of the new blades pretty good.
final_pi_Candy_Raspberry_PPB-5935_(resized).jpg
final_pi_Racing_Raspberry_UPB-6610_(resized).jpg

Both have a pink lighted hue.

#318 7 years ago
Quoted from mskoenen:

I just got my parts back for STTNG and they (mostly) look great. One of the legs was light, so they're going to re-coat it for me. And the hinge on the coin door was terrible. Does anyone have any tips/tricks to the coin door hinge that I could pass on to them? They're going to try to make it right for me, but it would be great if I could give them some info on how best to do it.

There is a trick to hinges and it involves taking the hinge off the door and high heat tape. I highly doubt they are going to do that for you as it takes me 10-15 minutes to set that up.

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