Quick question, how are you guys coating your coin doors? Are you completely disassembling them? Leaving the door on the hinge and removing everything else? Or just removing things off the back of the door?

Thanks for the help!

Gotcha, so you removed the door from the hinge? Is that hard? I've done the complete rest of the door but not the door from the frame.

Gotcha! Thanks, I'll take a look when I get home tonight.

Since you kept the pin in, how does your hinge look post powder coating B?

Sorry for the confusion, that was for B (golfingdad) who just did his GB. I was quoting your text to reference the point of your statement.

Any other LOTR ideas out there? I was originally thinking the Grecian Gold vein shown earlier in the thread and also used on TH but the wife stuck her nose up at it. She seems to like the Chestnut polished brass we had on the IJ I previously restored (which there are a few photos of in the thread as well, polished brass LOTR that is).

Looking for any other options out there if anyone has any photos of what they did (PC is so much cheaper lol).

I believe that's Grecian Gold aka the same as TH, no?

I like it, but haven't sold the wife on it

Looking good. What colors are those on LOTR and GB?

Thank you sir. I assume those are prismatic colors, right?

Quick question, where's the best place to get the stern plastic chrome bezel, etc parts from?

No, for the coin doors. Stern's coin return bezel, flap, and drop bezel are all plastic so you can't PC or chrome them. I guess a few people have them in chrome plastic coated by the looks of all the Stern doors that are coated, they all have those pieces in a chrome finish.

Sweet, I need stuff from Terry anyway. I noticed when taking apart my WOZ door for plating that it's got plastic pieces as well. Anyone know 100% if these will fit the JJP door as well. They look identical to the Stern but figured someone might have plated their WOZ door and know for sure.

Just confirmed the Stern (GB) and JJP (WOZ) doors are the same as far as the bezel parts go in case anyone was interested.

And then...........?

How would I inquire about my pc being able to do this? Is it a specific process/technique, color, clear coat etc?

How close to brass does it look in person?

Thanks!

I've looked through the entire thread and see no WH20 with PC. Anyone have any pics or suggestions?

White comes to mind, I think I remember seeing a WW in white that looked pretty sharp. I would think that blue wouldn't end up looking right. If you nail the color exactly, then everything just disappears. If you don't, it just clashes.

I just paid $140 for 14 pieces to get coated in gloss black for my AFM.

I don't disagree necisairly. Although there is a pretty dramatic difference price wise especially if you start doing everything (coin door, etc). I can PC the entire thing for basically the price of just chrome side rails.

My Stern parts (14 pcs) cost me $200 but that is for illusion colors which is multiple stage PC.

Still much much cheaper then any type of playing out there although shiny can definitely look sweet on some games. I just wish it wasn't so pricey.

I have yet to pick them up but I'm a big copycat on colors. I didn't want to do anything I hadn't seen before.

I'm doing GB, LOTR, AFM, & WOZ.

Dude , Price !!!! LoL

I like my doors done to match also which almost doubles the price..... and I've only owned it a few days so I don't know quite yet if I like it that $$$ yet.

Not too shabby, what about taking the apron in and trying to match it? Is that how you did it? I'd still love to see an all white WH20.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4453

Can't really chrome plate plastic. Some places can vacuum metalize with varying results sometimes.

Thanks!

Holy cow, there's ten pages of white colors on the prismatic site..... talk about choice overload. I'm not even sure where to start for a color selection. Any PC pros have a white suggestion by chance?

Nice, I'm sold especially for as much cheaper as it is over chrome. Now I just need to figure out which of the 10 pages worth of white to choose.

Worth is relative... do you mean will it hold up to abuse or is it worth the price to get it done? Chris also answered it in the same thread the photo was from; In a home environment with proper maintenance, yes it should. I have a few guides and wireforms powder coated on my pins and they seem to be doing just fine.

I did illusion cherry on my INMDN pro and love it. The wife liked the color so much she had me do her 3 tier pie rack with it too.

Love the vein. My LOTR is done in Grecian Gold Vein.

Three things:

1: That looks nice. I think I like that better than the yellow I've seen on FG before.
2: Ohh the horror of such a young impressionable mind playing FG (JK love the show, people are too sensitive)
3: Your pins need more remote controls

I think there is an art to it. I have two stage colors on all my games and non of them have chipped at the hinges. I think that it's a combination of the skillset leveraged in the application, watching how thick you put it on, and maybe even try swinging the hinges open/shut between applications when the coating is thin might help to reduce/eliminate the cracking. I was worried of this at first when I did my first few games but 10 or so games later, so far so good.

As do I, they're just really good at it I guess. As with anything, there's an art to it that you just get better at with time, experience, and attention to detail. Pinball parts are definitely an extreme rarity at my coater.

That'll be interesting to see photos of!

Yes

I'm sure he got it where everyone else does: https://www.t-molding.com/

I have the illusion cherry on my INMDN Pro and it looks sharp there as well.

Looks sharp. I'm a big fan of illusion cherry, I did my INMDN in it... and my wife's pie plate holder

I've never done speaker panels on my PC jobs but I don't think it looks bad by any means. My OCD thing is that I always have to do the coin doors though. I can't have all this sharp looking powder coating on my pin and a huge plain black door right in the middle of the front of the pin. I may start to dabble in the speaker panels now that you have made me think about it though. I'd like to do my new JP Prem soon and I'm just trying to figure out a color. I'd really like to have the custom caution airbrush set from over seas but not interested in paying $1200-$1500 for it so I'll stick with my $200-$300 PC jobs.

LoL I can definitely see that. To me I just can't handle they don't match. But again, that's just my own OCD.

I want to both thank everyone who posts the manufacturer and exact color they used as well as encourage everyone else who posts to do so. It's really helpful when you see something you like to already know those details to go get yours done.

Did you look at the Star Trek thread? There's got to be at least one person who PC'd the door I would think.

Same question for JP? It would definitely be helpful if people would add that detail when they post.

Thanks for posting. My JP prem is my only pin not PC’d (including the 2 pins I’m waiting to ship to me) and I’m still undecided. Was thinking something orangish based on the cab art (and the fact that I’ve never done that color before) but am also very interested in the vein type prismatic green, rust, or brown colors.

I like the green and brown mix, nicely done.

See I think a vein color like this would be nice for my JP prem but in a brown/copper color. I really like the Grecian Gold vein I have on my LOTR. Without getting into the feather debate, I just feel like the brown skin more accurately looks like a dinosaur to me. I just haven't found the color on the Prismatic site that hits the mark exactly.

Don't own GZ but I'm a huge fan of all the vein colors. Trying to figure out a brown/copper color to do my JP prem in. I have the grecian gold vein on my LOTR.

Yea I saw that on the pro, I'm just not sure how that green would look on the prem. I'm thinking of something more copper/orangish brown to compliment the cab colors a little more. Sorting by your posts, you have quite a bit of the vein color there in your lineup. They all look sharp. Did you clear all of yours with a top coat. The first time my coater did a vein for me we didn't do the "optional" (per the Prismatic site) clear top coat and the vein accent color started coming off where my hands would rest on the side rails and LDB.

What a beauty, nicely done!

Sure looks close although I've never seen one in person:

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/IM-LE-1304x2048.webp

https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PMB-6905/illusion-cherry

The best thing about the illusion cherry (and almost all of the illusion colors) is that it's not just a solid red but it's not quite as obvious as a sparkle. It's got a more subtle metallic shimmer when you look closely at it. I have done Illusion Royal, Ultra Illusion Green, Illusion Cherry, and I'm about to do my JP Prem in Illusion Orange Cherry. The only pin I'm doing in a color that's not an illusion was Grecian Gold Vein on my LOTR and I'm going candy purple on my Met because the Illusion in the purple is just a solid purple and I want an effect on it. I'd like to find an excuse to try out the fractured illusion line but it hasn't happened yet because they only have it in 6 colors. They do have it in the cherry though.

https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PVB-10293/fractured-illusion-cherry

I saw this game in another thread and was wondering what color it was. Thanks for posting it.

You can use small needle nose pliers to loosen them a turn or two and that should give you room for your socket/nut driver to fit. Sometimes you just have to press down harder and the wall of the socket will slip over the edge. The worst part is when the screws are over driven and they are embedded into the plastic on the actual mechs. They are always in hard to reach areas making it even more of a challenge.

The shooter housing is definitely not plastic. A good PC place will press out that center bushing, blast the finish off, PC it, and press fit the bushing back in place. That's what mine does and it comes out great every time.

You could go somewhere in the middle. I'm having my JP premium done right now in this: https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PMB-5509/illusion-orange-cherry?gclid=CjwKCAiA68ebBhB-EiwALVC-NsxTv-RD5wuhTAKRseAL9QEEB9oAC2CX3mBBGJLOmHl2r-BSa5jtahoCPKoQAvD_BwE

Maybe they are leftovers from JP that they are burning through by adding the sticker?

For the lit amber shooter rod.

Very fitting, it compliments the game nicely. The additional sparkle add is nice since illusion purple is pretty plain without it.

I used to have illusion purple on my Metallica but wasn't satisfied with it plus it was an old original coat and scratched up a bit. Decided to go a little different purple than I have seen before. Allow me to introduce "Disco Purple":

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Yep here you go. The flipper buttons are actually purple but got washed out in the photo.

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Nice!

Never done it myself but my PC guy says the clear is pretty thick and will buff out similar to a car clear coat.

I've done tons of wire forms with no issues.

It depends on what you're doing and your preference. If you do something with a flake, I would recommend it (like a disco purple). If you do an illusion color, it's a 2 part and doesn't need an additional clear. I generally use a vision clear when I want an extra clear coat on it.