AC/DC (LE)
Stern, 2012
AC/DC (Premium)
Stern, 2012
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Attack from Mars
Bally, 1995
Batman Forever
Sega, 1995
Baywatch
Sega, 1995
Big Bang Bar
Capcom, 1996
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993Quoted from BZarrCaptain:My RUSH in white. It was suggested by someone on Facebook when I was undecided and I love the way it turned out.
[quoted image]
Looks good, not a lot of games can pull off white.
Now change that t-molding to match and it will really pop
Quoted from BZarrCaptain:My RUSH in white. It was suggested by someone on Facebook when I was undecided and I love the way it turned out.
[quoted image]
Keep goin! White out speaker panel, door, t-molding and apron!! Looking good thus far......
Quoted from Enchantress:Keep goin! White out speaker panel, door, t-molding and apron!! Looking good thus far......
Yup
White does look sharp though!
Quoted from Meegis:Looks good, not a lot of games can pull off white.
Now change that t-molding to match and it will really pop
Thanks for the compliment. I already have the white T-molding. Just a little nervous about putting it on. I’ve never swapped any before.
Quoted from BZarrCaptain:Thanks for the compliment. I already have the white T-molding. Just a little nervous about putting it on. I’ve never swapped any before.
Remove old, and cut the new to match. Copy the notches for the rounding and you'll be ok.
Quoted from Meegis:Remove old, and cut the new to match. Copy the notches for the rounding and you'll be ok.
Thanks. I'll post another picture once I've done that! Thanks again for the advice
Quoted from BZarrCaptain:Thanks for the compliment. I already have the white T-molding. Just a little nervous about putting it on. I’ve never swapped any before.
I enjoyed customizing my t-molding after I got past the first one. It’s not very hard at all. I recommend using a hand vac to suck up all the little wood splinters and dust you’ll free up as you pull the original molding off. Keep the playfield glass on, or you’ll get that wood dust on it. I take the old/original t-molding and measure it to see how much new I need, then add an inch to be sure I don’t come up short. You’ll trim any excess at the end. I start under the head, in the middle, where you want the seam to end up. Start pressing firmly into the channel until it accepts the new molding. The rubber mallet sold at T-molding.com is helpful for stubborn/tight areas, but you can usually use your thumb to push it into place. I’ve changed t-molding on 8-10 pins and it can make a big difference! I like the white molding on my GB, for example…
48CD055F-FFE6-40A7-8EC6-53651750D709 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinkitten:I enjoyed customizing my t-molding after I got past the first one. It’s not very hard at all. I recommend using a hand vac to suck up all the little wood splinters and dust you’ll free up as you pull the original molding off. Keep the playfield glass on, or you’ll get that wood dust on it. I take the old/original t-molding and measure it to see how much new I need, then add an inch to be sure I don’t come up short. You’ll trim any excess at the end. I start under the head, in the middle, where you want the seam to end up. Start pressing firmly into the channel until it accepts the new molding. The rubber mallet sold at T-molding.com is helpful for stubborn/tight areas, but you can usually use your thumb to push it into place. I’ve changed t-molding on 8-10 pins and it can make a big difference! I like the white molding on my GB, for example…
[quoted image]
What t-molding? All I see is a poster on the wall 
Quoted from darkryder:What t-molding? All I see is a poster on the wall
You are definitely on the Dark Side..... 
Quoted from darkryder:What t-molding? All I see is a poster on the wall
Lol. Oh, yeah! My Pink Floyd ladies booties. Will be a custom translite for my Pink Floyd pin, coming someday via Stern!
Quoted from dinot:Just got these back from powdercoater. Prismatic Illusion Tropical Fusion
The light green t-moulding will be removed. I am just waiting on new moulding to arrive.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That color choice looks fantastic!! Are you using a local powder coater for the work?
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:Looks sharp. I'm a big fan of illusion cherry, I did my INMDN in it... and my wife's pie plate holder
I'm liking the Illusion Cherry! Is this similar to the LE powder coat? That was the look I was going for. Would be great if you could post some pics.
Cheers!
Adam.
Quoted from Aflacjack:Black Knight Premium
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Looks great! Did you have a Prismatic color name for this blue?
Thanks!
Adam.
Quoted from ahdelarge:I'm liking the Illusion Cherry! Is this similar to the LE powder coat? That was the look I was going for. Would be great if you could post some pics.
Cheers!
Adam.
Sure looks close although I've never seen one in person:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/IM-LE-1304x2048.webp
https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PMB-6905/illusion-cherry
The best thing about the illusion cherry (and almost all of the illusion colors) is that it's not just a solid red but it's not quite as obvious as a sparkle. It's got a more subtle metallic shimmer when you look closely at it. I have done Illusion Royal, Ultra Illusion Green, Illusion Cherry, and I'm about to do my JP Prem in Illusion Orange Cherry. The only pin I'm doing in a color that's not an illusion was Grecian Gold Vein on my LOTR and I'm going candy purple on my Met because the Illusion in the purple is just a solid purple and I want an effect on it. I'd like to find an excuse to try out the fractured illusion line but it hasn't happened yet because they only have it in 6 colors. They do have it in the cherry though.
https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PVB-10293/fractured-illusion-cherry
Steve at MI Pinball Refinery did both of mine and I think they came out great. I might have gone green on GZ if it wasn't going to sit next to JP.
2022-11-17 10.52.26.jpg2022-11-17 10.53.36.jpg2022-11-17 10.53.43.jpg2022-11-17 10.53.50.jpgQuoted from Mitoska:Had Godzilla done last month, has a nice silver flake sparkle in the clear
[quoted image][quoted image]
This is what I am going to do. Excellent choice
Quoted from La4s:That color choice looks fantastic!! Are you using a local powder coater for the work?
Thank you. Yes, I use Ultimate Powder Coating in Eldersburg, MD. They've done 7 machines for me. They are right next door to Royal Flush Amusements and they've done many machines for them as well.
5360 Enterprise St, #C, Sykesville, MD 21784
(410) 795-7130
Quoted from ahdelarge:I'm liking the Illusion Cherry! Is this similar to the LE powder coat? That was the look I was going for. Would be great if you could post some pics.
Cheers!
Adam.
This is Illusion Cherry on my Elvis.
62B93750-8E18-4BB6-8B16-43FEEB6892F9 (resized).pngF57F10E5-D33B-4471-A91E-F6F3CCF2671B (resized).pngQuoted from Kerry_Richard:Here is my EHOH done in Illusion Cherry (Prismatic Colors). It's a deep red with slight sparkle.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I saw this game in another thread and was wondering what color it was. Thanks for posting it.
Anyone know the PP color code for the Egyptian gold most are using on their Iron Maiden Premiums? Thanks for the assistance.
Quoted from medic7000:I’ll be sending parts to a local shop to have my starwars powder coated. I’m assuming I have to take the rubber lining out of the lockdown bar? If it loses stickiness is there a place I can get more from? Pic for reference
[quoted image]
I bought a roll at the hardware store.
Quoted from medic7000:I’ll be sending parts to a local shop to have my starwars powder coated. I’m assuming I have to take the rubber lining out of the lockdown bar? If it loses stickiness is there a place I can get more from? Pic for reference
[quoted image]
Home depot. Will do several lockdown bars.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-3-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R734H/100047977
Quoted from Mitoska:I've had about 20 games done., Powder coating makes such a nice addition. Normally I don't like to repeat colors, but I just had Mandalorian and GNR done and went with same color on both.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What color was that on the Mandalorian?
Quoted from medic7000:I’ll be sending parts to a local shop to have my starwars powder coated. I’m assuming I have to take the rubber lining out of the lockdown bar? If it loses stickiness is there a place I can get more from? Pic for reference
If you remove it carefully it's pretty easy to keep it completely intact and re-use it! Don't forget to remove the action button & hardware that goes with it, too. And remind the folks doing the powdercoating to tape up the threaded rods, you don't want powdercoat on those to be able to bolt the parts back on.
Anyone local to Pittsburgh looking for this service. Jason at Allegheny Metal Finishing is your man.
724-695-3233
8150 Steubenville Pike, Imperial, PA 15126
r/
Mike
If I was to bring my parts to a company to get powder coated, is there anything specific that I make sure they do in order to have a finish that will not show wear?
Is there a special finish I should ask for?
I plan on powder coating over some stainless legs, rails etc.
Quoted from Mattyk:If I was to bring my parts to a company to get powder coated, is there anything specific that I make sure they do in order to have a finish that will not show wear?
Is there a special finish I should ask for?
I plan on powder coating over some stainless legs, rails etc.
Make sure they do proper prep and sandblasting. Some places include it and others charge a little additional, usually $5-$10 per part (for large parts…legs, siderails, etc.)
A good one or two stage powdercoat, when done right, is usually pretty chip resistant and resilient. You can also request a clearcoat, which obviously protects the underlying powder. Clearcoat is not always necessary, but can help it to shine more if you a select a dull color. But most people use glossy colors.
Once done, make sure you clean them with a very soft microfiber cloth. I use the cloths they make for computer screens, sunglasses, etc. If you use anything even mildly abrasive, you can get finite scratches that can’t always be buffed out.
I had a few old, original lock bar receivers that I had replaced when upgrading or restoring 90’s WPC pins. Instead of buying more new for $90 or so, I sent them to Steve at Pinball Refinery to have them resurfaced and powder coated. Was half the cost of new ones, and they turned out nice. I chose a neutral black powder.
911F8043-5D0F-4220-819D-A6DBCF4344EB (resized).pngF9904E33-452B-4A6A-AFB0-9214B27F6151 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinkitten:I had a few old, original lock bar receivers that I had replaced when upgrading or restoring 90’s WPC pins. Instead of buying more new for $90 or so, I sent them to Steve at Pinball Refinery to have them resurfaced and powder coated.
Nice. Smart on your part. It’s amazing how similar our BSD’s are.
3334C0F9-6BDC-46E5-9C3F-71A19C11E996 (resized).jpeg71BF1CD1-574A-4E4B-A28D-5FFBE983A59D (resized).jpeg2A19CB93-1052-4F31-AFB9-798CA7A2CD98 (resized).jpeg156E93E9-2960-4338-BCA2-F84DF48AD0C7 (resized).jpegQuoted from Colsond3:Make sure they do proper prep and sandblasting. Some places include it and others charge a little additional, usually $5-$10 per part (for large parts…legs, siderails, etc.)
A good one or two stage powdercoat, when done right, is usually pretty chip resistant and resilient. You can also request a clearcoat, which obviously protects the underlying powder. Clearcoat is not always necessary, but can help it to shine more if you a select a dull color. But most people use glossy colors.
Once done, make sure you clean them with a very soft microfiber cloth. I use the cloths they make for computer screens, sunglasses, etc. If you use anything even mildly abrasive, you can get finite scratches that can’t always be buffed out.
Much appreciated thank you
Quoted from Colsond3:Nice. Smart on your part. It’s amazing how similar our BSD’s are.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks! Your BSD is a beauty too! I like the lit speakers. I should do that. I want to put LEDs under the graveyard too, but I need to pull the ramps to do that. Another collector friend of mine has like 8 or 10 sets of old chrome legs, and he just had a local place sandblast and powder coat them in different colors. Powder coating can really be useful for salvaging these old, original parts, and save some bucks versus buying new.
3ADDEAC4-702E-4EF0-8978-F797D648E62D (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinkitten:I had a few old, original lock bar receivers that I had replaced when upgrading or restoring 90’s WPC pins. Instead of buying more new for $90 or so, I sent them to Steve at Pinball Refinery to have them resurfaced and powder coated. Was half the cost of new ones, and they turned out nice. I chose a neutral black powder.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Bad Ass! I posted that thought awhile ago and responses were any moving parts won't powder coat or well anyway. Glad to know it's an option. Looks killer as well!!
Quoted from medic7000:Any tips on removing these screws on stern coin door? Tried everything I had in the house but there is not much clearance for a socket to go in there.
[quoted image]
I was able to get this 5mm bolt driver on it. These sockets have slightly thinner bodies than standard sockets. They can squeeze into tighter spots.
954AD040-CE89-45B3-ADE3-8C3F7641B6E5 (resized).pngQuoted from medic7000:Any tips on removing these screws on stern coin door? Tried everything I had in the house but there is not much clearance for a socket to go in there.
[quoted image]
Us a small wrench, I think its the same size as a multi-tool bit. So if you have a socket set, use a small extension and the multi-tool head.
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