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Quoted from cottonm4:I like your wooden frame combo with the small floor jack. I'd like to know just how you bolted the frame to the jack pad, please.
The jack cup was held by a bolt that I removed and replaced with a longer one. This jack has the same setup I think.
Quoted from SYS6:I wasn't sure how much use I'd make of a tumbler so rather than buy a commercial unit I put one together using a car wiper motor and a piece of pvc pipe. Works really well. Also in the picture is my version of an ATX bench power supply.
Nice one. This looks just like something my dad would have made. Every old appliance we ever had ended up dismantled, with motors, springs, screws put away for later use.
I like the creativity a lot. Can you post some close ups of the balls before and after? I'd be interested in seeing if you can get the balls to new. Have you tried some more heavily pitted balls? This will tall you how much is actually removed.
Quoted from cottonm4:I always wondered about this magical polish tool to clean up your headlights. This answered my question. Thank you.
There is just no substitute for elbow grease.
You have to sand the lenses with 500 grit sandpaper, followed by 600 grit, followed by 800 grit, followed by 1000 grit, 1200 grit, then 1500 grit, then polish.
An alternative is to sand with 500 sandpaper and clear coat. I did it a couple times on two different cars and no longer had to worry about the yellow coming back.
Quoted from cottonm4:What kind of clear coat? Rattle can? Polyurethane? Epoxy?
I did it once with a rattle can (I think it was non yellowing crystal clear rust oleum) and the second time with 2 part auto clear. Both worked very well. I still have the car on which I shot the 2PA AC and it still looks like the day I cleared it.
Quoted from packie1:Ok That's cool! send the details on how to make that.
Mike
This is straightforward. Start with a cheap bottle jack such as https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Hydraulic-Bottle-Jack-Capacity/dp/B0002H3364/ref=sr_1_9
Cut the flat uppermost part of the screw that is inside the piston. I cut a slot in the middle to be able to screw it out with a flat screwdriver in case it mistakenly get screwed all the way in.
Then get a 24" PVC pipe (https://www.homedepot.com/p/VPC-1-2-in-x-24-in-PVC-Sch-40-Pipe-22015/202300504 at $2.48) and two couplings (
https://www.homedepot.com/p/LASCO-Fittings-1-2-in-PVC-Sch-40-S-x-S-Coupling-429005BC/317625591 for 67 cents each) and you're ready to go. Cut a small piece of 3/4" thick wood and file a 1" channel in the middle. Glue it to the coupling. Cut the pipe so the jack + pipe + coupling + wood piece fits right under your front legs. Then cut a small piece of pipe and add a coupling so that the jack + 2 couplings + 2 pipes + wood fit under the back legs.
I recommend filing the end of the long pipe that goes into the coupling in the extension with sandpaper so the fit isn't tightened the extension is easy to take off. This is the part that is in white at the bottom of the pipe.
I added a couple of springs to automatically pull the piston back but that is not strictly necessary. You can push the piston back easily by hand.
All in all, you can get the basic version for $20 or so in 10 mins. I found it to be a lifesaver to level a game or change leg levelers. No more crawling under the cabinet and using my back to push the game up.
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