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(Topic ID: 65459)

Show and Tell: Your DIY Homemade Tools


By mof

7 years ago

Topic Heartbeat


Topic Stats

  • 674 posts
  • 200 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Karetaker
  • Topic is favorited by 263 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

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    Topic index (key posts)

    50 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #3 Light bulb remover. Posted by mof (7 years ago)

    Post #16 Link to homemade CNC router. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #20 Lock picks and tension wrench. Posted by Fanatic (7 years ago)

    Post #21 Roll pin remover. Posted by KenH (7 years ago)

    Post #24 Raised playfield stabilizer. Posted by mof (7 years ago)

    Post #28 Soldering platform. Posted by OuttaSpace (7 years ago)

    Post #31 Inexpensive pinball dolly. Two wheels, a handle, and some scrap 2x4. Posted by SchertzPinball (7 years ago)


    Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jeffzee.
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    #26 7 years ago

    Here's my "I'm too wimpy to move and setup a game tool"...

    http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/dolly/dolly.html

    1 year later
    29
    #155 5 years ago

    I posted this a few days ago, but then I remembered this existing thread and realized I should have put it here in the first place... Sometimes I like to pull a Sys-11 playfield off its pivot bolts to work on something at the back of the playfield. I made these U-shaped blocks to support the front which just slip over the side rails. They also work on classic Bally games.

    shop-01.jpg

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    2015-11-25-02-blocks.JPG

    2 weeks later
    #181 5 years ago
    Quoted from Superchicken:

    Post removal and installation tool:
    Buy a cheap screwdriver with reversible bit and drill out the neck so that the post will clear when inserted. Nut drivers don't have enough clearance. This tool is a beautiful thing when installing these post on a freshly clear coated playfield.
    IMG_20140102_144552.jpg
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    Post.JPG

    I stopped by the hardware store and bought a driver to try this. When I opened the package I found that the shaft was already sufficiently hollow. No drilling required. There's no product information aside from "MintCraft" on the handle.

    DSCN7156a.JPG

    2 months later
    17
    #196 5 years ago

    I got this idea from a post earlier in this thread where someone made a solder station shelf that spanned the cabinet body. I made a partial shelf that can hang from one side rail or the other. It keeps the solder station out of the way and allows access to any playfield component above or below the shelf.

    soldershelf-02_(2)_(resized).jpg

    soldershelf-01_(2)_(resized).jpg

    1 year later
    27
    #317 3 years ago

    Pinball Lift

    Credit for the basic idea goes to Pinsider PK2 at...

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-move-a-pinball-machine-alone/page/2#post-3845705

    Here's my version. If you don't want to lift the back of a game, this seems like a pretty good compromise between bulk and ease of use. Details at...

    http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/lift/

    15 (resized).jpg

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    1 year later
    11
    #370 2 years ago

    I busted one of my halogen work lights. I rigged the old tripod with a pair of 4' LED tubes. They're bright and I like the lack of heat as compared to the halogen lights. The 4' width means I can move around without making harsh shadows on my work. On the other hand, it'll be easier to knock over again. I made a wood mounting block that can slip on the tripod either horizontally or vertically.

    18-12-23-03 (resized).JPG

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    18-12-23-07 (resized).JPG

    1 month later
    #372 2 years ago

    Anyone else obsessive about having their games equally spaced and exactly parallel? I'd roll a game into place and then fart around with a tape measure for another five minutes. So I made a pair of gauge sticks that slip over one game to space out the next. I don't have any wide body games so I didn't worry about that. I had some trouble with the sticks slipping on games with steeply sloped side rails. So I smeared a thin layer of silicone caulk along the underside of the cross pieces. This is also me looking for any excuse to play with the table saw. All the parts were shaped from scraps of 2x4.

    GaugeSticks-01 (2) (resized).JPG

    GaugeSticks-03 (2) (resized).JPG

    #375 2 years ago

    Rear leg levelers 15/64" from the baseboard.

    3 months later
    13
    #430 1 year ago

    Cut the top off a mini-post and thin the shaft a bit...

    shop-15 (resized).jpg

    Use the point to apply rings to non-pointy posts...

    shop-16 (resized).jpg

    Lubricating the point and shaft with a bit of Windex from a Q-tip also helps.

    7 months later
    #545 1 year ago

    I don't know if this qualifies as a "tool". I use a pair of machine screws as handles whet I want to run a standoff against the buffing wheel.

    2020-01-02-01a (resized).JPG

    2 weeks later
    13
    #562 1 year ago

    I was trying to think of ways to tighten posts without using pliers. I made a "handle" which is just a piece of scrap steel with a tapped hole. I tighten the handle against the top of a post like a pair of jam nuts. I used a screw, but a screwdriver is unnecessary. Hand tight is plenty. The handle gives me something to hold while I tighten the under playfield nut. It doesn't take much to hold the post. So nothing more than a small handle is needed. After the nut is tight the handle is backed off and removed. I tapped one handle 6-32 and another 8-32.

    handle-01 (resized).jpg

    handle-02 (resized).jpg

    #563 1 year ago

    Part of my original idea was to get into tight corners. Then it occurred to me that a simple wingnut would work well enough for most circumstances. Or for tight corners, a wingnut with a wing cut off. And since wingnuts don't have to be made, a wingnut can easily be fit to each post before flipping up (or over) the playfield.

    handle-03 (resized).jpg

    3 months later
    14
    #591 11 months ago

    How about a Flipper Mech Rebuild Rack? The FMRR - otherwise known as a scrap of plywood. I prefer to install bushings first. But that makes everything else awkward. So after installing a bushing, I screw the flipper base down to the FMRR. Two screws are enough. The FMRR keeps the flipper base flat and stable and gives me something more substantial to hold while installing the remaining components.

    shop-11 (resized).jpg

    shop-12 (resized).jpg

    shop-13 (resized).jpg

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