Here's my "I'm too wimpy to move and setup a game tool"...
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I posted this a few days ago, but then I remembered this existing thread and realized I should have put it here in the first place... Sometimes I like to pull a Sys-11 playfield off its pivot bolts to work on something at the back of the playfield. I made these U-shaped blocks to support the front which just slip over the side rails. They also work on classic Bally games.
Quoted from Superchicken:Post removal and installation tool:
Buy a cheap screwdriver with reversible bit and drill out the neck so that the post will clear when inserted. Nut drivers don't have enough clearance. This tool is a beautiful thing when installing these post on a freshly clear coated playfield.
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I stopped by the hardware store and bought a driver to try this. When I opened the package I found that the shaft was already sufficiently hollow. No drilling required. There's no product information aside from "MintCraft" on the handle.
I got this idea from a post earlier in this thread where someone made a solder station shelf that spanned the cabinet body. I made a partial shelf that can hang from one side rail or the other. It keeps the solder station out of the way and allows access to any playfield component above or below the shelf.
Pinball Lift
Credit for the basic idea goes to Pinsider PK2 at...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-move-a-pinball-machine-alone/page/2#post-3845705
Here's my version. If you don't want to lift the back of a game, this seems like a pretty good compromise between bulk and ease of use. Details at...
I busted one of my halogen work lights. I rigged the old tripod with a pair of 4' LED tubes. They're bright and I like the lack of heat as compared to the halogen lights. The 4' width means I can move around without making harsh shadows on my work. On the other hand, it'll be easier to knock over again. I made a wood mounting block that can slip on the tripod either horizontally or vertically.
Anyone else obsessive about having their games equally spaced and exactly parallel? I'd roll a game into place and then fart around with a tape measure for another five minutes. So I made a pair of gauge sticks that slip over one game to space out the next. I don't have any wide body games so I didn't worry about that. I had some trouble with the sticks slipping on games with steeply sloped side rails. So I smeared a thin layer of silicone caulk along the underside of the cross pieces. This is also me looking for any excuse to play with the table saw. All the parts were shaped from scraps of 2x4.
I was trying to think of ways to tighten posts without using pliers. I made a "handle" which is just a piece of scrap steel with a tapped hole. I tighten the handle against the top of a post like a pair of jam nuts. I used a screw, but a screwdriver is unnecessary. Hand tight is plenty. The handle gives me something to hold while I tighten the under playfield nut. It doesn't take much to hold the post. So nothing more than a small handle is needed. After the nut is tight the handle is backed off and removed. I tapped one handle 6-32 and another 8-32.
Part of my original idea was to get into tight corners. Then it occurred to me that a simple wingnut would work well enough for most circumstances. Or for tight corners, a wingnut with a wing cut off. And since wingnuts don't have to be made, a wingnut can easily be fit to each post before flipping up (or over) the playfield.
How about a Flipper Mech Rebuild Rack? The FMRR - otherwise known as a scrap of plywood. I prefer to install bushings first. But that makes everything else awkward. So after installing a bushing, I screw the flipper base down to the FMRR. Two screws are enough. The FMRR keeps the flipper base flat and stable and gives me something more substantial to hold while installing the remaining components.
Here is the latest version of my Redneck Pinball Dolly. Details at http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/dolly/dolly.html
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