(Topic ID: 65459)

Show and Tell: Your DIY Homemade Tools

By mof

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 84 days ago by SYS6
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    Topic index (key posts)

    51 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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    Post #3 Light bulb remover. Posted by mof (10 years ago)

    Post #16 Link to homemade CNC router. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

    Post #20 Lock picks and tension wrench. Posted by Fanatic (10 years ago)

    Post #21 Roll pin remover. Posted by KenH (10 years ago)

    Post #24 Raised playfield stabilizer. Posted by mof (10 years ago)

    Post #28 Soldering platform. Posted by OuttaSpace (10 years ago)

    Post #31 Inexpensive pinball dolly. Two wheels, a handle, and some scrap 2x4. Posted by SchertzPinball (10 years ago)


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    8 months later
    #536 4 years ago
    Quoted from pinball_faz:

    Awesome description. I get what you did. I've been toying with the idea of trying to make my own but the alignment of purchased dies and/or making my own dies kinda scared me. I'm gonna try this. Which rivets did you use? I want to get rivets soft enough to not need the hardened steel.
    Thanks for posting this!!
    faz

    PinRestore sells a nice rivet starter kit for $30. The rivets he includes in the kit are nickel plated brass rivets. For "softness", these would be perfect for you.

    http://pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

    They also sell the hand held rivet roll over punch for $28....I've done probably over 1000 rivets with this tool.

    #538 4 years ago
    Quoted from pinball_faz:

    I've seen the hand punch but wondered how do you back the other side? Block of wood?

    I only use steel rivets and I know a block of wood would not be sufficient to support the head. I posted a video here on Pinside a few years ago showing how to use the hand held roll over tool.....1st post on this thread...

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swords-of-fury-custom-ramps/page/8

    Anyway, in that video I just support the rivet head in one of the jaws on my vice... I actually ground a couple indentations in the top of my vice for the rivet head to sit into. I do most of my work with a rivet press, but it cannot get to everything....so If I can't use the jaw of the vice, I use a 3/8" bolt that I also ground an indentation into (Thread end). I clamp that in my vice sticking up maybe 1.5". I position the head of the rivet on the end of that bolt and then, just like in the video above, hammer away.

    The trick to semi-tubular rivets, is picking the proper length of rivet for what you are assembly. The bottom of the rivet (tubular end) should protrude beyond what you are riveting by approximately just under 1/8". This protrusion is what is rolled over. When you use the proper length rivet, as you pound (or press) the rivet, it can really only go so far before the roll over tool encounters the solid center of the rivet. Go slow at first.....If the work isn't tight, just hammer it a little further.

    Also always remember to use a washer when the rolled over portion of the rivet would impact plastic (Just look at the bottom side of pretty much any ramp flap)

    1 week later
    #557 4 years ago
    Quoted from CanadianPinball:

    3 x Pool Noodle and you have a roller system to get games in and out of your vehicle.

    I try to use my son!

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