(Topic ID: 65459)

Show and Tell: Your DIY Homemade Tools


By mof

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 638 posts
  • 195 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 253 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

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    Topic index (key posts)

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    There are 638 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 13.
    #401 1 year ago
    Quoted from TheWiz:

    Here is what I use. I took the backboard off Fishtales so I could give a good cleaning. If I were to leave the backboard on I use an angle with holes and a piece of wood attached (to clamp to) to support from the bottom and secure it to the table with a couple of short screws underneath.[quoted image][quoted image]

    Those are great, just got a set from Amazon!

    #402 1 year ago

    Some time ago I bolted a couple of 2x6s to the lift table so it supports the full length of the pin and It still fits under one. (I don't like lifting from just the particle board base). Then I got those bike repair mounts thanks to TheWiz post and now have a sturdy portable rotisserie.... Stripped a taxi playfield using it yesterday worked great.

    pincart (resized).jpgCart_rotisserie1 (resized).jpgtaxionrotisserie (resized).jpgcart_rotisserie2 (resized).jpgcartunder (resized).jpg

    #404 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mageek:

    (I don't like lifting from just the particle board base).

    Nice tool and I understand, however, the two cross tie boards at the bottom of the cab take all of the stress.

    #405 1 year ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Nice tool and I understand, however, the two cross tie boards at the bottom of the cab take all of the stress.

    Maybe so, none of my B/W have more than one cross tie. Just behind the cash box.

    #406 1 year ago

    You shouldn't lift using the base panel. They're not meant to lift or bear the load of a 200+lb game!

    Even if there are braces (sometimes there aren't), usually there is a 1/2" to 1" gap between the brace and the bottom panel (as you know because that's inevitably where every #^&%@ dropped screw wants to go)...

    It is a TERRIBLE idea to flex the panel a half inch when it often has only 1/4" or less extra width locking into the side slots: you might crack the panel (remember, the manufacturers used whatever scrap / crap material was convenient for this non-structural part, so is it even in good shape to begin with?), or even pop the panel out. And sometimes the braces aren't too sturdy either: I've seen them loose (with short tenons and/or glue cracked from age), and it was not hard to imagine them buckling and popping out of the side walls. The braces support a small load from above. They're not meant to bear the full load of the game once the legs are off the floor. Maybe bearing the weight of a lifted game will be the thing that finally *makes* them loose. Do you feel lucky?

    Always lift the cabinet side walls. You can slide the cart under from the side (it might take a couple tries to find the right center balance point as every game is different), or use boards to extend the cart platform width if inserting from the front.

    #407 1 year ago
    Quoted from goingincirclez:

    You shouldn't lift using the base panel. They're not meant to lift or bear the load of a 200+lb game!
    Even if there are braces (sometimes there aren't), usually there is a 1/2" to 1" gap between the brace and the bottom panel (as you know because that's inevitably where every #^&%@ dropped screw wants to go)...
    It is a TERRIBLE idea to flex the panel a half inch when it often has only 1/4" or less extra width locking into the side slots: you might crack the panel (remember, the manufacturers used whatever scrap / crap material was convenient for this non-structural part, so is it even in good shape to begin with?), or even pop the panel out. And sometimes the braces aren't too sturdy either: I've seen them loose (with short tenons and/or glue cracked from age), and it was not hard to imagine them buckling and popping out of the side walls. The braces support a small load from above. They're not meant to bear the full load of the game once the legs are off the floor. Maybe bearing the weight of a lifted game will be the thing that finally *makes* them loose. Do you feel lucky?
    Always lift the cabinet side walls. You can slide the cart under from the side (it might take a couple tries to find the right center balance point as every game is different), or use boards to extend the cart platform width if inserting from the front.

    I do it all the time. Dozens of games and not one has had a problem. That includes the heaviest of games, such as caveman and STTNG.

    Yes, the best way to support a game is by using the sidewalls, however as long as it's a solid cabinet to begin with, I think it's pretty much a non-issue.

    #408 1 year ago

    Maybe I need to quit buying wrecks

    Still, I'd rather not chance it or give Murphy any more openings than he's already got on me. All it takes is "that one time"...

    Besides, there's a reason the "professional", purpose-built pinball lift carts are long enough to lift the front and rear walls of the game, NOT just the bottom panel.

    #409 1 year ago

    I like using Pinball Skates. Lift the pin by it's legs which are designed to support the weight.
    Plus they are MUCH easier to store.
    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PBS

    #410 1 year ago
    Quoted from crwjumper:

    I like using Pinball Skates. Lift the pin by it's legs which are designed to support the weight.
    Plus they are MUCH easier to store.
    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PBS

    Those are pretty freakin' cool

    1 week later
    #411 1 year ago

    My machinist buddy made a bunch of these to remove stuck sleeves.

    coiltool1 (resized).jpgcoiltool2 (resized).jpg
    #412 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mageek:

    My machinist buddy made a bunch of these to remove stuck sleeves.[quoted image][quoted image]

    I could've used one of those a week ago...was working on a game that had a stuck sleeve. I ended up just chopping it up into little pieces in order to get it out. What a pain that was.

    #413 1 year ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I could've used one of those a week ago...was working on a game that had a stuck sleeve. I ended up just chopping it up into little pieces in order to get it out. What a pain that was.

    I use a nut driver that fits

    #414 1 year ago

    Isn't a stuck sleeve an indicator that the coil has been overheated?

    #415 1 year ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Isn't a stuck sleeve an indicator that the coil has been overheated?

    Sometimes it is. And sometimes it’s an indicator of a coil that someone along the way thought needed to be “oiled” lol. I’ve had more stuck sleeves from wd40 than I have overheated coils

    #416 1 year ago
    Quoted from jmountjoy111:

    Sometimes it is. And sometimes it’s an indicator of a coil that someone along the way thought needed to be “oiled” lol. I’ve had more stuck sleeves from wd40 than I have overheated coils

    Yep, the stuck sleeve I had had been greased/oiled. After cleaning the coil, a new sleeve slipped into the coil with no trouble.

    #417 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mageek:

    My machinist buddy made a bunch of these to remove stuck sleeves.[quoted image][quoted image]

    Awesome idea! Would he consider selling a couple?

    #418 1 year ago

    At the recent VFW Show, we had a couple overheated coils. One woodrail Flipper to a bad EOS switch and the other due simply to Pinball Life "Hot" coil that overheated due to constant play (on POTC IIRC). Resistance still read fine so we just drill them out and replace the sleeve since the coil usually melts and bonds to the sleeve. Its either a 13 or 14 mm drill bit.

    Always wear gloves when doing this in a machine.

    #419 1 year ago

    Here is my DIY tool called "Multi-Board"

    I often need a little workspace on my Pinball machines, which has a good stand and does not move. So I decided to build this DIY board - with foam rubber and magnetic strips. you can stick and secure your screws and tools on the magnetic strip, use it as a stand/holder for the speaker panel and translite (so it doesnt move) and you can flip it for a mobile solder station.

    update... installed 4 more neodym magnets to hold heavier tools or to magnetize screws, see last pic

    cheers
    Chris
    2 (Small) (resized).jpg3 (Small) (resized).jpg4 (Small) (resized).jpg5 (Small) (resized).jpg6 (Small) (resized).jpg7 (Small) (resized).jpg

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    #420 1 year ago

    Easy tool made from thin plastic cutting board. I think I bought a 5 pack fairly cheap at Menards. Just cut with scissors the size you need so parts won't fall into the body of a machine. It's thin enough to fit under the Jones plugs on EM games.

    cutting (resized).jpgIMG_2516 (resized).JPGIMG_2514 (resized).JPG
    #421 1 year ago

    Here is something I made for my other hobby that I enjoy very much. I made this to dispense 3 different speed fuses for timing my fireworks show. It reduces errors and speeds up setup time on the 4th.

    IMG_20190420_092041 (resized).jpg
    #422 1 year ago

    Here is the last part of last year's show.

    #423 1 year ago
    Quoted from Shredso:

    Awesome idea! Would he consider selling a couple?

    I'll ask him

    #424 1 year ago

    I would like one too.

    #425 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mageek:

    I'll ask him

    I bet he’d sell several of them. I’d take one if he is selling them

    #426 1 year ago

    I’d like one too, since we're placing an order.

    #427 1 year ago
    Quoted from KoolFingers:

    I’d like one too, since we're placing an order.

    I needed one of these tonight. Put me on the list.

    It is one more of those, "Here, take my money" pinball deals that you just have to have.

    #428 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mageek:

    My machinist buddy made a bunch of these to remove stuck sleeves.[quoted image][quoted image]

    I have a bunch of these stainless 1/2" coil sleeve removers for sale. Two for $20 including shipping. E-transfer to frankrauche@sympatico.ca with your address. Please allow 2 weeks as I live in Canada. Thanks guys.

    IMG_0862 (1) (resized).jpg Added 15 months ago:

    Oops I guess not too many people use e-transfer. You can pay me at paypal.me/pinparts Thanks.

    #429 1 year ago

    What is e-transfers, paypal? Kinda dumb on technology so sorry for a dumb question.

    13
    #430 1 year ago

    Cut the top off a mini-post and thin the shaft a bit...

    shop-15 (resized).jpg

    Use the point to apply rings to non-pointy posts...

    shop-16 (resized).jpg

    Lubricating the point and shaft with a bit of Windex from a Q-tip also helps.

    #431 1 year ago
    Quoted from KoolFingers:

    What is e-transfers, paypal? Kinda dumb on technology so sorry for a dumb question.

    Not dumb question. I have never heard of e-transfers, either

    #432 1 year ago
    Quoted from KoolFingers:

    What is e-transfers, paypal? Kinda dumb on technology so sorry for a dumb question.

    Yes I’m curious too

    #433 1 year ago

    I love pin skates, particularly when on my padded carpets. They work where the Escalera doesn't.

    IMG_1074 (resized).JPG

    Except for one bit about them. I can never seem to press with with pressure with my fat fingers to get those damn nubs to go in enough. Nubs, I hate you.

    So I made a stupid tool. A button masher, with a bigger surface for my thumb, that'll automatically go to the right depth (and no more, and no less). The washer at the end helps set that depth to match the thickness of the square tubing the skates are made from. It's a 5/16's bolt, which has just enough of a rounded scoop at the end, to hold the nub. That big washer makes it so I can also grab it from around different angles with my fingers, when my thumb is less handy.

    IMG_1076 (resized).JPG
    IMG_1077 (resized).JPG

    When I get bored, I'll probably see if I can do it without the pair of nuts; and just grind the bolt down to the right size, and make sure the the end is bowled out slightly using the Dremel.

    #434 1 year ago

    E-transfer is a Canadian thing only in N.A.

    PinballJunkie

    #435 1 year ago

    Sorry guys. Edited post to send to paypal.me/pinparts Thanks.

    #436 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballJunkie:

    Sorry guys. Edited post to send to paypal.me/pinparts Thanks.

    Well, that's not to work, either. Paypal demands an email address.

    I'm trying.

    #437 1 year ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Well, that's not to work, either. Paypal demands an email address.
    I'm trying.

    I believe the email address he provided for e-transfer is also the one used for paypal. I did a paypal transaction up to the point of sending money and it was working up to that point. Wasn't 100% sure so did not proceed.

    #438 1 year ago

    So it's Frank Rauche e-mail frankrauche@sympatico.ca. paypal.me/pinparts I received 2 payments already so I know it's working.

    Sorry for the confusion. My 1st time doing this.

    Cheers, Frank

    #439 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballJunkie:

    So it's Frank Rauche e-mail frankrauche@sympatico.ca. paypal.me/pinparts I received 2 payments already so I know it's working.
    Sorry for the confusion. My 1st time doing this.
    Cheers, Frank

    Ok. I used your email address with out the paypal.me stuff. That seems to have worked. At least Paypal says I have paid you.

    Thank you very much.

    #440 1 year ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Ok. I used your email address with out the paypal.me stuff. That seems to have worked. At least Paypal says I have paid you.
    Thank you very much.

    I just sent payment using the paypal.me stuff but accidentally put my name in the recipients box. It should all work out, Hopefully.
    Seth.

    #441 1 year ago

    I did not receive it unless it was Troxel Repair in which case there was no name or address attached? Everyone else is fine.
    Frank

    #442 1 year ago

    Recieved Cottonm4. Thankyou!

    #443 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballJunkie:

    I did not receive it unless it was Troxel Repair in which case there was no name or address attached? Everyone else is fine.
    Frank

    Troxel Repair would be me . My address not come through? Thanks for selling these!

    #444 1 year ago

    I sent over a payment and emailed you, woot!

    #445 1 year ago

    Interac e-transfer only works in Canada, send money from your online banking account

    receiver needs a password to drop it into their bank account

    no banking info changes hands

    Quoted from jmountjoy111:

    Yes I’m curious too

    #446 1 year ago
    Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

    Interac e-transfer only works in Canada, send money from your online banking account
    receiver needs a password to drop it into their bank account
    no banking info changes hands

    Sounds pretty interesting. I sent the payment through PayPal. I can’t count how many times I could have used that tool

    #447 1 year ago

    i tried to use it to send USD to a pinhead in the USA, that's how i know it only works in Canada

    better than paypal and no fees, butt simple

    Quoted from jmountjoy111:

    Sounds pretty interesting. I sent the payment through PayPal. I can’t count how many times I could have used that tool

    #448 1 year ago
    Quoted from jmountjoy111:

    Sounds pretty interesting. I sent the payment through PayPal. I can’t count how many times I could have used that tool

    Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

    i tried to use it to send USD to a pinhead in the USA, that's how i know it only works in Canada
    better than paypal and no fees, butt simple

    And what company would you suspect of lobbying the U.S. Congress to not allow a program like this to enter the U.S. ? Can't have something like this cut in on the action.

    #449 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballJunkie:

    So it's Frank Rauche e-mail frankrauche@sympatico.ca. paypal.me/pinparts I received 2 payments already so I know it's working.
    Sorry for the confusion. My 1st time doing this.
    Cheers, Frank

    Money sent. Looking forward to getting this very useful looking tool! Had to tear out sleeves too many times to count!

    #450 1 year ago

    LOL, yeah I suspect I know which company you are thinking of . . .

    Quoted from cottonm4:

    And what company would you suspect of lobbying the U.S. Congress to not allow a program like this to enter the U.S. ? Can't have something like this cut in on the action.

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