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(Topic ID: 65459)

Show and Tell: Your DIY Homemade Tools


By mof

7 years ago



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  • 642 posts
  • 195 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 26 days ago by troxel
  • Topic is favorited by 254 Pinsiders
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    There are 642 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 13.
    #351 2 years ago

    Here's some information of the pcb board holder and a parts list to use.
    The 2020 aluminium profiles are available to order from many places and manufactures, I bought these from aliexpress in pre cut lengths and M6 screws can be used on them, many of these only handles up to M5 but with M6 the small washer between the large ones on the clamp has the same thickness as the board, 1.5mm.
    I assume similar profiles are available in the US as well, ¾” is about same size if you wish to use imperial instead and the M6 is about same size as a ¼” screw (won't fit in the 2020 profile though).
    Since washers are punched there's one edge that's slightly sharper, I don't know if it matters but I turned that edge towards the pcb board with both of the large washers, hopefully for better grip.
    The corner brackets has small guidings for the profile, on the adjustable profile you have to break it off to be flat against the surface.
    These parts is what I bought, there's a lot of other stuff, sizes and other manufacturers to use instead if you don't find the listed parts, and some extra washers and screws won't hurt.
    Adjust profile length for your need, these length works well with pinball pcb boards.

    Parts List Aliexpress:
    2020 profile 500mm, 2 pieces for the frame
    2020 profile 300mm, 2 pieces for the frame
    2020 profile 350mm (minimum 300+20+20), 2 pieces for adjustable profiles
    2028 bracket corner fitting, 8 pieces
    20 T Spring nut M6, 32 pieces minimum, buy a pack of 50 if you wish to add more clamps or attach other things like holders for components etc.
    Star Knob M6 x 35 mm male thread, 4 pieces for adjustable profiles

    Bought locally:
    Handles UXCELL 20 x 110, 2 pieces
    Knurled Knob M6 x 10mm, 4 pieces minimum but 6-12 is better for clamping, 3 on each side for large boards
    Small M6 washer 1.5mm thick 12mm Od, 1 piece/clamp + 24 minimum
    Large M6 washer 28mm Od, 2 pieces/clamp
    M6 x 10mm screw, 16 pieces minimum
    Red rubber feet M6 x 55mm with nut, 4 pieces ,this is a destaco spindle used on their hand clamps
    The Black Rubber feet has 8mm long M5 thread + 10 rubber, 4 pieces
    I had these at home and some M5 T Nuts but finding something with M6 x 6mm instead shouldn't be too hard. Depth for screws in profile is 6mm but use washers or cut the screw if it's too long.

    Home made:
    Distance 25mm Id 6mm Od 12mm, 4 pieces for Star Knob, you'll probably find something suitable if searching around.

    Good luck and hope this wasn't too messy

    20180505_084610 (resized).jpg
    Edit:The small M6 washer can be used with M5 screws and profiles as well

    2 weeks later
    #352 2 years ago

    I have created a number of tools to allow me to do some things

    for anyone interested
    https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkstools&sort=newest

    Flipper button nut remover
    - inserting to the inside of the nut and allowing you to easily remove. This also couples as a holder for my idc wire insertion bar.
    99x74_23177479_12630642_1524478745.png
    710x528_22689463_12630642_1524477784 (resized).png

    Playfield Spirit Level
    - 3 designs - 6 degrees, 6.5 degrees and 7 degrees
    6.5degree PF level (resized).jpg

    IDC wire insertion bar and handle
    - dedicated and the original design
    710x528_8836580_6367308_1459346656 (resized).png
    710x528_8836834_6362111_1522460698 (resized).png

    1 month later
    #353 2 years ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    If you look carefully you can see that my plastic fuse puller is distorted from trying to remove some fuses that were locked in some very tight clips.

    Surely, there has to be something better this POS piece of plastic. And a light bulb moment happened. Several weeks prior I was at an auction and bought a box of old tools. There was a funny looking set of pliers in that box. And I thought they might be good fuse pullers. I was not wrong.
    These pliers are vintage, or old, or antique. Pick your poison. They are used pliers. They are old. Made by Utica Tool company that used to make all kinds of pliers. These funny looking pliers were used by telephone company employees for working with cables. That is all I could find about them.
    Their part number is: 319-B. I managed to find a pair on Ebay I bought as a gift for a friend. Utica 319-B

    They lock onto a fuse and won't let go. The jaw size is just right for grasping a fuse and pulling it without breaking the glass.
    I am thinking of you have a torch that you could take a pair of needle nose pliers and bend and shape them into fuse pulling pliers like this pair. I suppose that since they are metal that perhaps you could get shocked but I am hard pressed to see how you could get shocked by pulling a fuse in a pinball machine.

    Here is another pair of these curved nose pliers for sale on Ebay.

    ebay.com link » Vintage No 319b Electricians Lamp Cap Or Jewelers Small Curved Tip Pliers

    #354 2 years ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Here is another pair of these curved nose pliers for sale on Ebay.
    ebay.com link » Vintage No 319b Electricians Lamp Cap Or Jewelers Small Curved Tip Pliers

    Damn it, another tool I'll probably never use. Ha! Thanks.

    #355 2 years ago

    Can't remember if I put this one in before or not, but since I'm doing another clear machine the opportunity to show it in action presents itself. If you don't build cabs you won't care but if you do this may be of some assistance.

    Shawn

    IMG_0562 (resized).JPGIMG_0564 (resized).JPGIMG_0570 (resized).JPG
    #356 2 years ago
    Quoted from Shredso:

    Damn it, another tool I'll probably never use. Ha! Thanks.

    I see it is sold. You will not use it often, but when you are pulling fuses you will be glad you have it. Like you, I have a loaded up toolbox with tools that rarely see the light of day.

    Many of my tools are the result of " I can buy the tool and do the job cheaper and have a "free" tool left over.

    #357 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

    Can't remember if I put this one in before or not, but since I'm doing another clear machine the opportunity to show it in action presents itself. If you don't build cabs you won't care but if you do this may be of some assistance.
    Shawn

    Great idea, very helpful when replacing the back panel on rotted out cabs

    16
    #358 2 years ago
    20180709_220426 (resized).jpg
    #359 2 years ago

    Andrew, that´s great!!!!

    12
    #361 2 years ago

    my super-high-tech tester !

    EA319F4B-E91A-48A5-AC50-F2B459732799 (resized).jpeg
    1 month later
    #362 2 years ago

    Poor man's Pinball Skates

    I needed a way to get a pin up on wheels for moving around. I don't have room for a pinball dolly. And I don't like the prices that are charged for a set of pinball skates so I came up with this:

    1) 2 slats of wood.
    2) 4 3-wheeled trolly wheels from Harbor Freight
    3) 8 foot 2x4 cut to length.
    4) some deck screws.

    The 2x4 holds everything in place. It is screwed to the slats with one screw on each end. The pinball legs are trapped. It all moves as one.

    Simple. Cheap. Works.

    IMG_8182 (resized).JPGIMG_8183 (resized).JPGIMG_8184 (resized).JPG

    #363 2 years ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    It all moves as one.

    And just how does one levitate the whole assembly on top of said device? I like the idea, but the execution is confusing me...

    #364 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

    And just how does one levitate the whole assembly on top of said device? I like the idea, but the execution is confusing me...

    Each platform is independent. Lift the front of the pin and put the leg levelers inside the trap area.

    Do the same for the back.

    The only reason I had to use the long 2x4 was for stability. The platforms were wanting to roll over with their small foot print.

    The leg levelers are trapped with small pieces of wood. The 2x4 provides stability.

    #365 2 years ago

    Gotcha. So you get both ends up and then connect the 2 X 4. Makes sense.

    #366 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

    Gotcha. So you get both ends up and then connect the 2 X 4. Makes sense.

    It was a fair question/observation.

    #367 2 years ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    It was a fair question/observation.

    Ive used those hard HF wheels. Do they not mark up your hardwood floor?

    #368 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lonzo:

    Ive used those hard HF wheels. Do they not mark up your hardwood floor?

    I use the black rubber HF swivel wheels under my 300lb+ house plants and stereo rack

    They have been in use for a decade, with no ill effects

    (disclaimer: My floors are real wood with oil based poly topcoat. Never tried plastic Pergo floors - be careful)

    #369 2 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I use the black rubber HF swivel wheels under my 300lb+ house plants and stereo rack
    They have been in use for a decade, with no ill effects
    (disclaimer: My floors are real wood with oil based poly topcoat. Never tried plastic Pergo floors - be careful)

    Rubber is good. The triple wheel mounts that I have seen at HF were hard plastic. Maybe they have some new stuff that is more rubber.

    3 months later
    11
    #370 1 year ago

    I busted one of my halogen work lights. I rigged the old tripod with a pair of 4' LED tubes. They're bright and I like the lack of heat as compared to the halogen lights. The 4' width means I can move around without making harsh shadows on my work. On the other hand, it'll be easier to knock over again. I made a wood mounting block that can slip on the tripod either horizontally or vertically.

    18-12-23-03 (resized).JPG

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    #371 1 year ago
    Quoted from JeffZee:

    I busted one of my halogen work lights. I rigged the old tripod with a pair of 4' LED tubes. They're bright and I like the lack of heat as compared to the halogen lights. The 4' width means I can move around without making harsh shadows on my work. On the other hand, it'll be easier to knock over again. I made a wood mounting block that can slip on the tripod either horizontally or vertically.
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]

    Something else for me to buy and build. That's nice.

    1 month later
    #372 1 year ago

    Anyone else obsessive about having their games equally spaced and exactly parallel? I'd roll a game into place and then fart around with a tape measure for another five minutes. So I made a pair of gauge sticks that slip over one game to space out the next. I don't have any wide body games so I didn't worry about that. I had some trouble with the sticks slipping on games with steeply sloped side rails. So I smeared a thin layer of silicone caulk along the underside of the cross pieces. This is also me looking for any excuse to play with the table saw. All the parts were shaped from scraps of 2x4.

    GaugeSticks-01 (2) (resized).JPG

    GaugeSticks-03 (2) (resized).JPG

    #373 1 year ago
    Quoted from JeffZee:

    So I smeared a thin layer of silicone caulk along the underside of the cross pieces.

    That's a neat trick.

    Quoted from JeffZee:

    This is also me looking for any excuse to play with the table saw

    I understand. I recently got my first table saw. I find it very enjoyable to work with.

    #374 1 year ago
    Quoted from JeffZee:

    Anyone else obsessive about having their games equally spaced and exactly parallel?

    That is really OCD. I love it! I like my pins to be evenly spaced within the available space, parallel and leveled the same - but the question is do you line up the backboxes across the top, the front edge of the cabinet or the playing fields?

    #375 1 year ago

    Rear leg levelers 15/64" from the baseboard.

    #376 1 year ago

    Here’s my dolly. I made it very early on in my career as a pinhead before I realized one could buy such things. It works great, though, after many years. Car jacks are so useful.

    974D8D93-35EA-43CA-AEC0-76E854D7473F (resized).jpeg
    #377 1 year ago
    Quoted from JeffZee:

    Anyone else obsessive about having their games equally spaced and exactly parallel? I'd roll a game into place and then fart around with a tape measure for another five minutes. So I made a pair of gauge sticks that slip over one game to space out the next. I don't have any wide body games so I didn't worry about that. I had some trouble with the sticks slipping on games with steeply sloped side rails. So I smeared a thin layer of silicone caulk along the underside of the cross pieces. This is also me looking for any excuse to play with the table saw. All the parts were shaped from scraps of 2x4.
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]

    Dude i added that to my list from this thread. i obsess about that constantly after i move one
    of my pins to do something. ill sometimes come back a couple of times to check again. Cant
    stand it if they arent spaced equal. Drives me nuts. hahaha.

    17
    #378 1 year ago

    Dust collection funnel for cleaning out holes in the playfield. The suction from the shop vac holds it in place nicely and the felt around the rim protects the surface.

    20190209_104502 (resized).jpg20190209_104543 (resized).jpg20190209_104623 (resized).jpg
    #379 1 year ago
    Quoted from No_Skill:

    Dust collection funnel for cleaning out holes in the playfield. The suction from the shop vac holds it in place nicely and the felt around the rim protects the surface. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Poor man's Festool.

    1 month later
    20
    #380 1 year ago

    I'm not sure if anyone has already posted this before, but I'm using 2 bicycle repair stands as a playfield rotisserie. Works really well, and they are cheap. And they are useful for a lot of other things (like repairing bicycles ).

    WhatsApp Image 2019-03-12 at 18.46.44 (resized).jpegWhatsApp Image 2019-03-12 at 18.47.19 (resized).jpegWhatsApp Image 2019-02-11 at 19.50.53 (resized).jpegHTB1Z0QdXsfrK1RkSnb4q6xHRFXaQ (resized).jpg
    #381 1 year ago

    Needed to repin some edge connectors on my Count Down and didn't want to shell out for the proper tool, so a machinist buddy whipped this little thing up for me out of a piece of spring steel. Works amazingly well.

    15526502956008750942771764705354 (resized).jpg
    #382 1 year ago

    How I reinstalled my TAF alone after restoration. Slide cab into place and lower...

    taf_han1 (resized).jpgtaf_han2 (resized).jpgtaf_han3 (resized).jpg
    #383 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mageek:

    How I reinstalled my TAF alone after restoration. Slide cab into place and lower...

    Brilliant!

    #384 1 year ago
    Quoted from koen12344:

    I'm not sure if anyone has already posted this before, but I'm using 2 bicycle repair stands as a playfield rotisserie. Works really well, and they are cheap. And they are useful for a lot of other things (like repairing bicycles

    nice! It looks like you can also rotate the playfield as well. One of the problems with most of the rotisseries is you have to store them somewhere when not in use. I think you have solved that issue. Do you need two stands to work on a bike?

    I also went for a construction which can be used for other stuff. I found these at the hardware store - right side I attached to a saw horse and the left side to the playfield. There’s a rotating joint in the middle with a brake so you can rotate the playfield.

    F21964C2-8B5E-4011-8A46-26515F09130E (resized).jpeg
    #385 1 year ago
    Quoted from branlon8:

    I also went for a construction which can be used for other stuff. I found these at the hardware store - right side I attached to a saw horse and the left side to the playfield. There’s a rotating joint in the middle with a brake so you can rotate the playfield.[quoted image]

    Any idea what this is called?

    #386 1 year ago
    Quoted from crwjumper:

    Any idea what this is called?

    Google "portable rotating vise" and you will find many examples of this kind of vise. It is similar to the one pictured, but it has an extra pivot point that I'm not sure I would want.

    The one in that pic looks like a European vise which I think I would prefer but I cannot find it by googling.

    Prices are all over the place.

    https://www.google.com/search?biw=1243&bih=903&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=GKqPXN3iDKTVjwSp9bXQDQ&q=portable+rotating++vise&oq=portable+rotating++vise&gs_l=img.3...25918.35311..35833...0.0..0.54.690.14......0....1..gws-wiz-img.......0i7i30j0i8i7i30j0j0i24.7kN6Yifj4g8
    .
    .
    .
    .
    https://www.tomtop.com/p-e1036.html

    Screen Shot 2019-03-18 at 9.26.10 AM (resized).png

    #387 1 year ago
    Quoted from branlon8:

    nice! It looks like you can also rotate the playfield as well. One of the problems with most of the rotisseries is you have to store them somewhere when not in use. I think you have solved that issue. Do you need two stands to work on a bike?
    I also went for a construction which can be used for other stuff. I found these at the hardware store - right side I attached to a saw horse and the left side to the playfield. There’s a rotating joint in the middle with a brake so you can rotate the playfield.[quoted image]

    Yes it can rotate horizontally and vertically, and can be locked in place with the knobs. You only need one for a bike, but I bought two of them specifically for using them as a rotisserie.

    #388 1 year ago
    Quoted from crwjumper:

    Any idea what this is called?

    at Amazon.de it’s called a multi-angle vise

    amazon.com link »

    so I googled multi angle vise and it seems like they are mostly either the kind that moves in more than 2 dimensions or the kind that is bolted onto a wooden surface. I suppose you could bolt them onto a saw horse.

    #389 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mageek:

    How I reinstalled my TAF alone after restoration. Slide cab into place and lower...
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    But, how did you manage to suspend the playfield in the first place? Seems like a similar lift was needed...

    #390 1 year ago
    Quoted from markp99:

    But, how did you manage to suspend the playfield in the first place? Seems like a similar lift was needed...

    In this case I was working on it on a table that I moved after suspending it, could suspend it from a rotisserie as well I suppose.

    #391 1 year ago
    Quoted from koen12344:

    Yes it can rotate horizontally and vertically, and can be locked in place with the knobs. You only need one for a bike, but I bought two of them specifically for using them as a rotisserie.

    Hi koen12344,

    Since you are from Holland, i am really interested where you bought those badboys

    #392 1 year ago

    Here's my rotisserie I designed and built a few years ago for under $100. Used a 4x4 post; gusset plates; 1" pipe nipples, flanges, and unions; an L-channel; and some clamps. An old 2x6 was used as the center span brace; I experimented with making my first mortise and tenon joinery and forgot to account for the swing of the playfield, but it was easy to rip-notch it to fit. I'm sure one could easily rig a 2x4 span of their own.

    I find this has numerous advantages over pipe-framed DIY and other commercial rotisseries: note you can attach handy hooks and other hardware to the posts, and bins to the cross-brace. The unions lock securely in any rotated position. The assembled rotisserie has an open floor between the ends but is very stable, and breaks down easily for storage. To accommodate different pf lengths, you can adjust the nipple segments. And did I mention it is DIY cheap with common materials....

    20190320_210816 (resized).jpg

    Rotezatate2 (resized).jpg

    Rotezabeth (resized).jpg

    #393 1 year ago
    Quoted from Thor-NL:

    Hi koen12344,
    Since you are from Holland, i am really interested where you bought those badboys

    I bought them from AliExpress, shipped from Germany.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Adjustable-104-190cm-Bike-Repair-Stand-Parking-Folding-Clamp-Mountain-Bicycle-Accessories-Wall-Mount-Bicycle-Stand/32951014596.html

    But I recently saw them in a Lidl store as well. They're even cheaper: https://www.lidl-shop.nl/CRIVIT-Fiets-montagesteun/p100251461

    #394 1 year ago
    Quoted from koen12344:

    I'm not sure if anyone has already posted this before, but I'm using 2 bicycle repair stands as a playfield rotisserie. Works really well, and they are cheap. And they are useful for a lot of other things (like repairing bicycles ).[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    How can you manage playfield with backboard?

    #395 1 year ago

    just made me a couple arms for a pinball rotisserie that can be mounted on anything wood easily with a few wood screws. Use vids plans for the heads, just didn't do the full base. Works great

    IMG_20190321_173754 (resized).jpg
    #396 1 year ago

    Here is what I use. I took the backboard off Fishtales so I could give a good cleaning. If I were to leave the backboard on I use an angle with holes and a piece of wood attached (to clamp to) to support from the bottom and secure it to the table with a couple of short screws underneath.

    91618003-A0C5-420A-AFBF-03BC11F7786D (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpg
    #397 1 year ago
    Quoted from ktownhero:

    just made me a couple arms for a pinball rotisserie that can be mounted on anything wood easily with a few wood screws. Use vids plans for the heads, just didn't do the full base. Works great [quoted image]

    Same here.
    I used 2 cymbal stands from my drum kit!

    26627FD2-14F9-4887-BED3-6615E612A715 (resized).jpeg
    #398 1 year ago

    I made this pinball cart last Fall. I wasn't a fan of what I had seen on the HF cart and Sears had a good price on the ATV lift. Slight modifications to remove the metal wheels and replace with plastic/rubber and after much measuring, cut & bolt/screw/glue on some 2x4's and top with a yoga mat for protection.

    Pinball Cart (resized).JPG

    #399 1 year ago
    Quoted from koen12344:

    But I recently saw them in a Lidl store as well. They're even cheaper: https://www.lidl-shop.nl/CRIVIT-Fiets-montagesteun/p100251461

    Ordered! Thanks Koen!

    It's a different version, will post results here

    14
    #400 1 year ago

    When I first got into solid state pinball’s I used a computer power supply to test MPU boards. I soon found the PC power supply’s were not reliable. That’s not good for testing equipment. I found an old 12 volt regulated power supply I built years ago. I connected it to a solenoid driver board for the 5 volt supply. It worked good but was a bit awkward to use.
    IMG_2510a (resized).JPG
    Then I duplicated the 5 volt section of the driver board and added it to the 12 volt supply. This worked very well.
    IMG_1210 (resized).JPG
    Then I built a 24 volt DC unregulated supply to get the zero crossing for the seventh flash.
    ad6c5e1aeb35fa18fd3313fc3df522f8218b03da (resized).jpg
    Last winter I decided to build a new power supply with 12, 5, and 24 volt. I’m not that good at electronics but with the help from several Pinside members we built the ultimate pinball power supply. Here’s a link to the build:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-resets-with-rottendog-solenoid-driver-board
    IMG_3141 (resized).JPG
    IMG_3189 (resized).JPG

    That was such an interesting build that I decided to build an adjustable power supply.
    IMG_3276 (resized).JPG
    IMG_3300 (resized).JPG
    Besides a great learning process I got two really neat power supplies.
    IMG_3307 (resized).JPG

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