East Aurora, NY
I would get one like this.
I have a craftsman that I love.
ebay.com link: itm
Need to pick up a Phillips as well.
Try to get the longer ones.
(Topic ID: 65459)
Quoted from LTG:I had a screw starter like that. Worked good. Didn't last real long.
LTG : )™
Thks LTG & CNKay-much appreciated. 
6 months later
2 weeks later
I posted this a few days ago, but then I remembered this existing thread and realized I should have put it here in the first place... Sometimes I like to pull a Sys-11 playfield off its pivot bolts to work on something at the back of the playfield. I made these U-shaped blocks to support the front which just slip over the side rails. They also work on classic Bally games.
Now that is the best idea I've seen all week. 
Simple and effective. I can certainly use it on the game I'm working on right now.
Quoted from JeffZee:I made these U-shaped blocks to support the front which just slip over the side rails.
Yup. On my list. Top of the list. I needed this 5 years ago.
I want to see the best idea for keeping a Bally playfield erect while I work on it. No Viagra jokes, please.
Quoted from swampfire:I want to see the best idea for keeping a Bally playfield erect while I work on it. No Viagra jokes, please.
I know the older ones have a break in the supports inside the cab where you run the bottom of the playfield into them and then tip it back until it rests on the back box. (AFTER removing the ball, of course!) Don't know about the newer ones.
I want a 'sled' you can slide over the rear of a modern stern to protect it while you move it/cart it around. the lack of cabinet runners on the sterns really exposes the cabinet back to the ground. Anyone improved upon the feet or something to protect the cabinet?
Quoted from flynnibus:I want a 'sled' you can slide over the rear of a modern stern to protect it while you move it/cart it around. the lack of cabinet runners on the sterns really exposes the cabinet back to the ground. Anyone improved upon the feet or something to protect the cabinet?
Whenever I put the butt of the cabinet on the ground/floor, I always put down a piece of thick cardboard. Usually a moving box (Home depot is the cheapest I've found so far). Then, I can slide the game around without damaging the cabinet (as long as the surface is reasonably flat with no pellets of debris underneath).
I always cringe a bit when I see someone dragging a cabinet across a floor without anything between the cabinet and ground/floor.
Quoted from ForceFlow:Whenever I put the butt of the cabinet on the ground/floor, I always put down a piece of thick cardboard. Usually a moving box (Home depot is the cheapest I've found so far). Then, I can slide the game around without damaging the cabinet (as long as the surface is reasonably flat with no pellets of debris underneath).
I always cringe a bit when I see someone dragging a cabinet across a floor without anything between the cabinet and ground/floor.
I do the same... But would like something more practical. The cardboard seems to not be there from time to time
Quoted from flynnibus:I do the same... But would like something more practical. The cardboard seems to not be there from time to time
Here is my System 11 "pinball machine in a box" lol
Makes working on boards and testing machines so much easier. It has all the components of a pinball machine, transformer, sound board, display boards etc. I also have one made for WPC. The switch matrix, lamp matrix, solenoid testers work with both kits. 
image.jpg
Quoted from lyonsden:001880_400x400.jpg
Impractical in most cases... And doesn't address the need. Games always goto the ground at some point... Especially when adjusting to go in and out of the vehicle.
I'm seriously considering just installing wood runners as the best solution
Best detail brush ever IMO, gets in cracks and is strong enough to remove 30 years of grit . Vertical use gets in corners , crevices , and tight spots. Take a acid brush and cut with sissors , take the bristles down to about 3/16 inch . Then tape the metal right above the brush to keep from scratching anything . I tape to handle end as well so not to scratch, if I lay it down . Use it everywhere Getting grit / old wax, etc doing a shop out.
JP
Quoted from Lonzo:Here is my System 11 "pinball machine in a box" lol
Impressive! Nice work.
Quoted from swampfire:It's made of aluminum (I think) so it's really light.
My guess is tin, not Aluminum. Bet a magnet sticks to it.
Quoted from Skypilot:I'm thinking you like cats
Quoted from 85Txaggie:My guess is tin, not Aluminum. Bet a magnet sticks to it.
Correct, the pin pan is a tin pan.
Schagen
Quoted from Superchicken:Post removal and installation tool:
Buy a cheap screwdriver with reversible bit and drill out the neck so that the post will clear when inserted. Nut drivers don't have enough clearance. This tool is a beautiful thing when installing these post on a freshly clear coated playfield.
Lost my imperial wrench for posts, and made this. Works a lot easier too! Thanks
My patent pending PHUD (tm) - "Playfield Holder Upper Device"
In my JP, the %$#% bungee in the bottom of the cabinet is nearly impossible to attach to the playfield eyelet. I keep the the bungee hooked to the backbox frame for easy reach when I am playing around under the playfield. Hooking to the playfield bracket is just so much easier.
That looks like the bracket could slide right off that big plastic hook, if the playfield tipped forward.
Quoted from swampfire:That looks like the bracket could slide right off that big plastic hook, if the playfield tipped forward.
Nope, not possible, at least with my JP. The apron provides a nice gap for this purpose:
I'll send a note to our product development team. Maybe there should be an eyelet at this end of the playfield, to permit hooking when the apron is removed. 
Quoted from markp99:My patent pending PHUD (tm) - "Playfield Holder Upper Device"
I could never buy one from you as they don't fit Williams machines. 
1 week later
Quoted from Superchicken:Post removal and installation tool:
Buy a cheap screwdriver with reversible bit and drill out the neck so that the post will clear when inserted. Nut drivers don't have enough clearance. This tool is a beautiful thing when installing these post on a freshly clear coated playfield.
IMG_20140102_144552.jpg
IMG_20140102_144609.jpg
Post.JPG
I stopped by the hardware store and bought a driver to try this. When I opened the package I found that the shaft was already sufficiently hollow. No drilling required. There's no product information aside from "MintCraft" on the handle.
1 month later
1 week later
I'd like to see more info on the rotisserie. I built a black iron rotisserie and it's too flimsy.
Quoted from Skypilot:Ok so I modified my rotisserie work table. This is fantastic!
Misc_102_(resized).jpgMisc_103_(resized).jpgMisc_101_(resized).jpg
Quoted from Skypilot:Ok so I modified my rotisserie work table. This is fantastic!
Where did you get those extra hands? There great!!
Quoted from Shredso:I'd like to see more info on the rotisserie. I built a black iron rotisserie and it's too flimsy.
I bumped the thread on it
Quoted from shimoda:um...Marco Specialties
Are you sure, I looked many times before asking.
I love these things best thing is my kid works there so I have all the products. They are doing a kickstarter for the new mini hand. If you guys have any ideas for improvement or any other product send me a PM.
Joe
Quoted from cyroute:I love these things best thing is my kid works there so I have all the products. They are doing a kickstarter for the new mini hand. If you guys have any ideas for improvement or any other product send me a PM.
Joe
If it's not the same guy... someone stole the idea from the other
I'm very happy with it... got all the 'hands'
faz
Magnets from Harbor Freight, clips from Radio Shack, flexible coolant pipes from Amazon. (Drill out hole in magnet, end of coolant pipe, hot glue.)
http://www.amazon.com/Leadingstar-GEN09015-Plastic-Flexible-Coolant/dp/B00
14864
Quoted from fuseholder:Magnets from Harbor Freight, clips from Radio Shack, flexible coolant pipes from Amazon. (Drill out hole in magnet, end of coolant pipe, hot glue.)
amazon.com link »image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg
What is this "radio Shack" of which you speak?
I got this idea from a post earlier in this thread where someone made a solder station shelf that spanned the cabinet body. I made a partial shelf that can hang from one side rail or the other. It keeps the solder station out of the way and allows access to any playfield component above or below the shelf.
3 weeks later
1) Post spinner device.
I use this to quickly clean old grubby plastic posts.
It is made from a couple inches of threaded rod, a snip of welding rod, and a couple of nuts to hold it together.
Device is chucked in a drill motor and the dirty post placed on the device.
I put a couple drops of Novus2 on a cloth and dilute with several sprays of Novus1. Spin the post with the drill and hold the damp cloth on the post for a few seconds. Viola! Clean shiny post.
2) the Coil Shank.
This is a cheap hacksaw blade with the back side ground down to where the blade will fit inside a coil sleeve. I wrapped some tape on the rest for a handle.
I use this when I have a worn metal sleeve that refuses to come out of the coil. Gently saw a slot in the worn sleeve, then collapse it with pliers and pull it out.
3) Contact cleaners.
I looked at buying a flexstone once, then found that the "fine" grade was a raspy 150 grit. I wanted something finer, as I'm just trying to make a small shiny spot on the contact.
Mine are made from wetsand paper usually 400 or 500 grit and double-sided Scotch tape. A pair of those freebie scissors from HF works just great for cutting sandpaper.
1 week later
Quoted from balzofsteel:...
2) the Coil Shank.
This is a cheap hacksaw blade with the back side ground down to where the blade will fit inside a coil sleeve. I wrapped some tape on the rest for a handle.
IMG_0449_(resized).jpg
I use this when I have a worn metal sleeve that refuses to come out of the coil. Gently saw a slot in the worn sleeve, then collapse it with pliers and pull it out.
.
If the coil sleeve is that hard to get out the coil might have heated up too much and may need replacing. If the new one does not slide right in then definitely replace since it has deformed.
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