(Topic ID: 65459)
San Francisco, CA
Quoted from Skypilot:have to attach some alligator clips to it yet
Iphone 2014 088-195.JPG 222 KB
Looks awesome -- what is it called? What problem does it solve?
-mof
Quoted from mof:Looks awesome -- what is it called? What problem does it solve?
-mof
Just a little removable work table for soldering
Quoted from Skypilot:Just a little removable work table for soldering
Very cool - that's what it looks like but the alligator clips comment threw me off...
-mof
Quoted from KenH:My portable bench test kit for Bally -35. The HV for the display is powered by a small nixie tube power supply board.
IMG_0315.JPG 68 KB
IMG_0327.JPG 63 KB
IMG_0330.JPG 41 KB
I love it! But I'm not sure what I think about it being on carpet... 
Quoted from Cheddar:Here's my custom tool: Drill depth stop.
Safety tip: Don't drain bottle just before use
WP_20140506_05_36_44_Pro.jpg 294 KB
Sweet I own a lot of these!
I made this modification/add-on to a rotisserie today.
For the times when you want to work on a game that has Sys11 type pf supports. It is quick and easy and I can flip it up down really quick to work on both sides.
don't mind the messy work area, mid tear down/rebuild of RGames
P5100777.JPGP5100778.JPGP5100779.JPG
1 month later
1. Grip-boots
2. I didn't want to scratch the post (even though it gets covered with a Cliffy)
3. Wrap electrical tape around the ends of your wrench sticky side UP, then wrap again sticky side down. Cut away excess. Pop them off with pliers. Save them after you use them once.
-mof
1. Sprial Notebooks
2. At 15 games in the collection, I realized I was starting to forget what work I did on each machine.
3. I went to costco online and bought 20 x 70pp notebooks for like $23 shipped. I put one in each coinbox.
Now I don't have to worry about remembering which machine got what resistor or diode replaced when. I can mark when I checked the batteries, etc...
-mof
Quoted from mof:1. Grip-boots
I do this with two layers of heat shrink tubing. I typically have one set of vise grips that always has the "covers" on.
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:I do this with two layers of heat shrink tubing. I typically have one set of vise grips that always has the "covers" on.
I just use a sacrificial post sleeve under my vice grips!
Probably been done before but here is a high tech tool I made tonight to help pull socket legs while desoldering. Pull the frame first, loop the thread on the legs turn board so it hangs and desolder starting at the ends. If one does not pop out take the loop off and place on the next one to put pressure on it. This popped out 75% or so the first try, the rest had more solder on the top of the board which would require extended heat or light heating on the top which I think is safer.100_7722.jpg
100_7724.jpg
2 months later
For Leveling Inserts
-Simply a 1-1/2" Oak Block, available at Lowes or Home Depot.
-Cut to length. I've found that I like them to be long enough to get 2 hands on.
-Dremel each end to the desired insert shape, and also Dremel the edges of the block to make it more comfortable in the hand.
-Sand to soften the edges, as needed.
I add heat with a hair dryer, to help the insert leveling process.
I use it directly on top of mylar, and have used with wax paper on CC playfields, though I'm not sure this is absolutely necessary.
The triangle-shaped one was created for use on the Funhouse clock Inserts, which are notorious for raising.
Sometimes when I solder I wish I had a third hand. Especially when it's under the playfield or something small that I'm connecting wires to. So, I bought this snaky thing from Marcos and Gorilla Glued a magnet to the bottom. This way I can attach it to my bench or any large piece of metal under the playfield to hold a wire or whatever fits in the clip while I solder it.
Someone's probably done this before but if they haven't, it's a pretty useful tool...at least for me. 
A length of string used to determine what size rubber ring is needed:
Mr. Pinball has a nice chart regarding sizes of rubber rings where you measure the perimeter of the area needing rubber and then look up the size of the rubber ring that should fit:
More info: http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0117.html
So I marked the Y-axis values onto a length of string to make it easy to correlate perimeter to ring size. The first black mark (5" from the end) represents a 1" ring and each additional black mark is an additional 0.5" of ring size.
Also handy is this type of chart to determine what size rings you already have on hand:
My color matching spreadsheet.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16294011/color_mixing.zip
Maybe a bit of overkill, but it works very well. I mix creatix paints by the drop, stir with a match stick, then swab directly on the sheet. Once they dry I compare to the playfield and go from there. Once I have an exact match I can make any amount I need, b/c I have the formula! I can mix it in my airbrush while I'm spraying, so I never run out...
Dan
2 months later
DIY "hex screw contact hubs."
I'm working on my first playfield swap -- a 1986 Williams High Speed.
I was not a fan of de-soldering hex nuts to remove wires (which burns the grey paint on the playfield as well), so that I could then solder-suck the hex screws some more to get them to fit. I'd say this is not an ideal set up. Perhaps it's a good cost-cutting move for the factory.
I went through my parts buckets. I realize I already have the solution in there...
Leaf switches...!
201412-Hex-Screw-Solder-Solution-bag.jpg
I disassembled all the ones I have, removed the old solder, put two bends in it -- to get the solder-point up and off the PF, and cut them back almost enough to hide underneath the hex screw.
I can add 1-2-3 or however many I want, and that may allow me to solder/de-solder a connection while leaving a few others intact...
201412-Hex-Screw-Solder-Solution.jpg
I installed one to show the value.
I'm sure dozens of you have already done this rather obvious trick, but for me, it was exciting to think of it and build a small arsenal of them.
enjoy!
-mof
201412-Hex-Screw-Solder-Solution-yay.jpg
Here's the before and after:
BEFORE
201412-HS-soldered-on-wires-on-hex-gross.jpg
KenH put this up at the beginning of the post.
I was asked about this just yesterday by a fellow pinhead so I made him one. This is about the 10th one I have made for other people.
I believe this was a Clay inspired tool to start with. Here you can see one in it's package new and the one I modified. There are two ridges meant to hold a chain link in position. I ground those out with a Dremel by trial and test until I got the exact depth to remove and re-install the roll pin. Only remove as much of the material as necessary.
DSCF1500.JPG
DSCF1504.JPG
DSCF1505.JPG"Flipper Shaft Spacer"
When doing a playfield swap, you'll need to drill 8 new holes for the flipper assembly bracket. The key is to have the flipper shaft dead-center in the hole as you make your adjustments.
How to make it:
Take one piece of electrical tape, sticky side out (about 1" long), and wrap it around the plastic. Note "where" you start and stop the wrap. You'll want to match up just "before" these two spots when you wrap your next piece sticky side down, so that you don't create an unbalanced wrap. You want "2 or 3" layers total to keep a perfect circle.
Slide it off and back on and then place the assembly with the spacer on and verify that there is little to no wiggle room...
good luck!
-mof
Here are the results of my first use of this DIY tool.
Quoted from mof:DIY "hex screw contact hubs."
I'm working on my first playfield swap -- a 1986 Williams High Speed.
I was not a fan of de-soldering hex nuts to remove wires (which burns the grey paint on the playfield as well), so that I could then solder-suck the hex screws some more to get them to fit. I'd say this is not an ideal set up. Perhaps it's a good cost-cutting move for the factory.
I went through my parts buckets. I realize I already have the solution in there...
Leaf switches...!
I found a retail version of this: Solder lug connectors
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7327/7327K-ND/316696
Yep, I get mine locally (when I need them) for $.05 each but they have a 90 degree bend in them.
Steve
Quoted from ForceFlow:I found a retail version of this: Solder lug connectors
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7327/7327K-ND/316696
Quoted from ForceFlow:I found a retail version of this: Solder lug connectors
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7327/7327K-ND/316696
Awesome.
Another day, another patent application to tear up and throw in the trash.
-mof
Quoted from mof:Awesome.
Another day, another patent application to tear up and throw in the trash.
-mof
Sorry 
Just didn't want you to have to go through time and effort of making these whey they aren't that expensive to obtain.
Quoted from mof:1. Spiral Notebooks
2. At 15 games in the collection, I realized I was starting to forget what work I did on each machine.
3. I went to costco online and bought 20 x 70pp notebooks for like $23 shipped. I put one in each coinbox.
I use Google Docs:
Here's an example:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ciP4L9xbAmltDYNxKwO6n3toQu3jyg1bo_pgfI2X6Bk/edit?usp=sharing
Quoted from mof:"Flipper Shaft Spacer"
When doing a playfield swap, you'll need to drill 8 new holes for the flipper assembly bracket. The key is to have the flipper shaft dead-center in the hole as you make your adjustments.
Coil sleeve works well for this also.
Dana
Quoted from swampfire:I use Google Docs:
I use web-based "to-do" trackers for all the maintenance due on 16 games so I can plan from anywhere, but I stay old school for individual repairs to "remember" what I've done. If a friend borrows a machine, he can read and write in the notebook as well.
-mof
1) name of the tool: "The Wooden Knee"
2) pic(s):
JMS_4040.JPG
JMS_4041.JPG
3) problem it solves:
Provides a stable platform for one end of your pin, while putting on legs.
4) brief description of how to make it
It's made of 2"x6" lumber I had laying around; I used angle brackets to make it more secure. Dimensions are 17" wide by 25.5" tall. The "double-T" profile makes it really secure. Long screws are used to attach the 2 parts of the upper "T". I added felt to the top and bottom to protect the game and the floor. Note: The 2 layers at the bottom are not necessary if you measure right from the start (I did not).
I keep meaning to buy a handle, so it can be more easily grabbed and deployed. Something like this:
safety-handle.jpg
5. advantages over similar tools:
It's relatively compact, and easier to remove one-handed than other "proppers" I've seen. It's rock-solid.
Here's something I didn't invent, but it's my most valuable tool - I'd be lost without it. Around 2005, a local Georgia guy started up JoePinball.com and sold these for just $50. Hopefully he'll drop in on this thread and comment.
1) name of the tool: "The Pin Pan"
2) pic(s):
JMS_4039.JPG
JMS_4037.JPG
JMS_4036.JPG
3) problem it solves:
Provides a large stable platform for your soldering iron or other tools. Cork protects your side rails and keeps the pan from sliding. It's made of aluminum (I think) so it's really light. I know I could make this out of wood, but I love the size and weight of the metal.
4) How to make it:
Cut the metal, bend the metal, rivet the metal and then put on the cork.
5) Limitations:
Widebodies need not apply.
These are PCB holders - two pieces of wooden dowel about 2 inches long, connected by some threaded inserts and a bit of threaded rod. Screw them together to clamp them onto the edge of a PCB and it stays nicely put, above the bench, for easy soldering. Assuming there's open space at the edges of the board somewhere, it lets you flip the board over easily to switch from soldering to debugging, and keeps any tall components from banging on the bench when you do so.
When I'm working on a System 11 board, I can even leave clip leads for power connected when I flip the board, solder something, and flip back.
I was looking for a cheap PCB holder, and couldn't find anything that met my definition of cheap, but looked like it would work for large PCBs. I did however find a reference to a test fixture system that used heavy metal cylinders that screwed down onto the PCB. I realized that if I did the same thing in wood, I'd have the perfect tool for what I'm doing, and one that fit my budget.
My first attempt (shown in the pictures) had some issues with cutting the dowel flat (my manual miter box has more slop than I realized) and with drilling the holes centered (my drill press is all over the place). My second run went much better.
I don't think the whole mess cost me more than $15 for six of those, which was plenty to clamp onto a System 11 board for bench work.
IMG_20141109_210443_694.jpg
IMG_20141109_205328_904.jpgQuoted from swampfire:Here's something I didn't invent, but it's my most valuable tool - I'd be lost without it. Around 2005, a local Georgia guy started up JoePinball.com and sold these for just $50. Hopefully he'll drop in on this thread and comment.
1) name of the tool: "The Pin Pan"
I would love something like this. If anyone has a lead, shoot me a line.
Quoted from holmstarrunner:I would love something like this. If anyone has a lead, shoot me a line.
Forget that, shoot us all a line, that thing is brilliant.
Sana'a
Quoted from mhkohne:connected by some threaded inserts and a bit of threaded rod.
For the non wood workers among us:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/159290/Threaded-Insert---Brass---14-x-20-8-piece.aspx
159290.jpg
Perth
Made up this tool to overcome the worldwide disease of having sausage fingers,
I use it to install the clips on the Pinbits's pressless Riveting Kit.
Using a cut down mini snapon screwdriver I glued the Pinbits supplied tool to it
making it a lot easier to tap the retainer over the rivet while trying to balance the rest of the job
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=72
Rivet tool.jpg
The pinpan is something I've been meaning to make for myself actually. I'd like to make one that just slid into the glass channel, that way it couldn't get accidentally lifted up and knocked over but also had a bit of reverse incline to sit flat. Heck, maybe even a built-in power strip to plug into the service outlet. After all, I often need both desoldering and soldering tools, maybe even a light for work.
No, the main benefit is having your soldering iron right there by the parts you're soldering. And the tray is light enough that I just park my soldering stuff on it, so that when I need to solder something on a game, I can just pick up the tray and drop it in.
Quoted from SchertzPinball:Pinball dolly made out of scrap 2x4 and lawn mower wheels. Slide it in between the front legs until only the handle is showing. Rolls nicely and pivots on a dime.
Jason2012-10-25_19-43-50_830.jpg 369 KB
looks cool but confused. any pics in action?
Quoted from TurboBengal:looks cool but confused. any pics in action?
It looks like the face that is on the floor is the one that is in contact with the pin.
1 month later
Saskatoon, SK
i had to take a picture so when I put everything back together I don't end up standing there looking at the parts and saying... well how the heck did I get that out??
1 month later
Interested to know whether anyone has used these screw & nut starters & whether they are worthwhile pls? Thks.
Quoted from wayner:Interested to know whether anyone has used these screw & nut starters & whether they are worthwhile pls?
I had a screw starter like that. Worked good. Didn't last real long.
LTG : )™
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
