(Topic ID: 65459)

Show and Tell: Your DIY Homemade Tools


By mof

5 years ago



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  • 401 posts
  • 148 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Mageek
  • Topic is favorited by 195 Pinsiders
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    Topic index (key posts)

    50 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

    There are 401 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 9.
    #101 4 years ago

    Iphone 2014 088-195.JPG have to attach some alligator clips to it yet

    #102 4 years ago
    Quoted from Skypilot:

    have to attach some alligator clips to it yet
    Iphone 2014 088-195.JPG 222 KB

    Looks awesome -- what is it called? What problem does it solve?
    -mof

    #103 4 years ago

    My portable bench test kit for Bally -35. The HV for the display is powered by a small nixie tube power supply board.

    IMG_0315.JPG IMG_0327.JPG IMG_0330.JPG
    #104 4 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Looks awesome -- what is it called? What problem does it solve?
    -mof

    Just a little removable work table for soldering

    #105 4 years ago
    Quoted from Skypilot:

    Just a little removable work table for soldering

    Very cool - that's what it looks like but the alligator clips comment threw me off...
    -mof

    #106 4 years ago

    Here's my custom tool: Drill depth stop.

    WP_20140506_05_36_44_Pro.jpg

    Safety tip: Don't drain bottle just before use

    #107 4 years ago
    Quoted from KenH:

    My portable bench test kit for Bally -35. The HV for the display is powered by a small nixie tube power supply board.

    IMG_0315.JPG 68 KB

    IMG_0327.JPG 63 KB

    IMG_0330.JPG 41 KB

    I love it! But I'm not sure what I think about it being on carpet...

    #108 4 years ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    Here's my custom tool: Drill depth stop.

    Safety tip: Don't drain bottle just before use

    WP_20140506_05_36_44_Pro.jpg 294 KB

    Sweet I own a lot of these!

    #109 4 years ago

    I made this modification/add-on to a rotisserie today.

    For the times when you want to work on a game that has Sys11 type pf supports. It is quick and easy and I can flip it up down really quick to work on both sides.

    don't mind the messy work area, mid tear down/rebuild of RGames
    P5100777.JPGP5100778.JPGP5100779.JPG

    1 month later
    #110 4 years ago

    1. Grip-boots
    2. I didn't want to scratch the post (even though it gets covered with a Cliffy)
    3. Wrap electrical tape around the ends of your wrench sticky side UP, then wrap again sticky side down. Cut away excess. Pop them off with pliers. Save them after you use them once.

    -mof

    201407-Grip-Boots2.jpg201407-Grip-Boots1.jpg

    10
    #111 4 years ago

    1. Sprial Notebooks
    2. At 15 games in the collection, I realized I was starting to forget what work I did on each machine.
    3. I went to costco online and bought 20 x 70pp notebooks for like $23 shipped. I put one in each coinbox.

    Now I don't have to worry about remembering which machine got what resistor or diode replaced when. I can mark when I checked the batteries, etc...
    -mof

    notebooks-rule!.jpg

    #112 4 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    1. Grip-boots

    I do this with two layers of heat shrink tubing. I typically have one set of vise grips that always has the "covers" on.

    #113 4 years ago
    Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

    I do this with two layers of heat shrink tubing. I typically have one set of vise grips that always has the "covers" on.

    I just use a sacrificial post sleeve under my vice grips!

    #114 4 years ago

    Probably been done before but here is a high tech tool I made tonight to help pull socket legs while desoldering. Pull the frame first, loop the thread on the legs turn board so it hangs and desolder starting at the ends. If one does not pop out take the loop off and place on the next one to put pressure on it. This popped out 75% or so the first try, the rest had more solder on the top of the board which would require extended heat or light heating on the top which I think is safer.100_7722.jpg
    100_7724.jpg

    2 months later
    #115 4 years ago

    IMG_3101.JPG

    For Leveling Inserts

    -Simply a 1-1/2" Oak Block, available at Lowes or Home Depot.
    -Cut to length. I've found that I like them to be long enough to get 2 hands on.
    -Dremel each end to the desired insert shape, and also Dremel the edges of the block to make it more comfortable in the hand.
    -Sand to soften the edges, as needed.

    I add heat with a hair dryer, to help the insert leveling process.
    I use it directly on top of mylar, and have used with wax paper on CC playfields, though I'm not sure this is absolutely necessary.

    The triangle-shaped one was created for use on the Funhouse clock Inserts, which are notorious for raising.

    #116 4 years ago

    Here's a jig for making Black Hole upkicker tubes.

    Steve

    tn[10].jpg
    #117 4 years ago

    Here's a wire form rail stamp I made a while back. Slide in the new rail end and smack it with a hammer, pull out a rail with a splined end.

    Steve

    I.jpg
    K.jpg

    #118 4 years ago

    1964669_10202475750847092_1197574299_n.jpg1964669_10202475750847092_1197574299_n.jpgHere's a super basic tool I use quite often.

    Its for powering up Bally transformers and rectifier boards without a machine to put it in.

    33
    #119 4 years ago

    Sometimes when I solder I wish I had a third hand. Especially when it's under the playfield or something small that I'm connecting wires to. So, I bought this snaky thing from Marcos and Gorilla Glued a magnet to the bottom. This way I can attach it to my bench or any large piece of metal under the playfield to hold a wire or whatever fits in the clip while I solder it.

    Someone's probably done this before but if they haven't, it's a pretty useful tool...at least for me.

    P1010596.JPG
    P1010597.JPG
    P1010599.JPG

    #120 4 years ago

    A length of string used to determine what size rubber ring is needed:

    string.JPG

    Mr. Pinball has a nice chart regarding sizes of rubber rings where you measure the perimeter of the area needing rubber and then look up the size of the rubber ring that should fit:

    ringchrt.jpg

    More info: http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0117.html

    So I marked the Y-axis values onto a length of string to make it easy to correlate perimeter to ring size. The first black mark (5" from the end) represents a 1" ring and each additional black mark is an additional 0.5" of ring size.

    Also handy is this type of chart to determine what size rings you already have on hand:

    rubberchart.jpg

    #121 4 years ago

    Bally or Stern lamp driver test pcb.

    20141005_163633.jpg

    #122 4 years ago

    My color matching spreadsheet.

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16294011/color_mixing.zip

    Maybe a bit of overkill, but it works very well. I mix creatix paints by the drop, stir with a match stick, then swab directly on the sheet. Once they dry I compare to the playfield and go from there. Once I have an exact match I can make any amount I need, b/c I have the formula! I can mix it in my airbrush while I'm spraying, so I never run out...

    Dan

    2 months later
    #123 4 years ago

    DIY "hex screw contact hubs."

    I'm working on my first playfield swap -- a 1986 Williams High Speed.

    I was not a fan of de-soldering hex nuts to remove wires (which burns the grey paint on the playfield as well), so that I could then solder-suck the hex screws some more to get them to fit. I'd say this is not an ideal set up. Perhaps it's a good cost-cutting move for the factory.

    I went through my parts buckets. I realize I already have the solution in there...

    Leaf switches...!

    201412-Hex-Screw-Solder-Solution-bag.jpg

    I disassembled all the ones I have, removed the old solder, put two bends in it -- to get the solder-point up and off the PF, and cut them back almost enough to hide underneath the hex screw.

    I can add 1-2-3 or however many I want, and that may allow me to solder/de-solder a connection while leaving a few others intact...

    201412-Hex-Screw-Solder-Solution.jpg

    I installed one to show the value.

    I'm sure dozens of you have already done this rather obvious trick, but for me, it was exciting to think of it and build a small arsenal of them.

    enjoy!
    -mof


    201412-Hex-Screw-Solder-Solution-yay.jpg

    Here's the before and after:

    BEFORE
    201412-HS-soldered-on-wires-on-hex-gross.jpg

    AFTER (coming together)
    201501-HS-prep-3-wires.jpg

    FINAL SOLUTION (cleaner)
    2015010-HS-much-cleaner.jpg

    #124 4 years ago

    I was inspired by barakandl's earlier post, and balked at the $38 pinitech was charging for their version.

    I added a switch and header so that it can also function as an led adapter board.

    IMG_20150101_014249.jpg
    #125 4 years ago

    KenH put this up at the beginning of the post.

    I was asked about this just yesterday by a fellow pinhead so I made him one. This is about the 10th one I have made for other people.

    I believe this was a Clay inspired tool to start with. Here you can see one in it's package new and the one I modified. There are two ridges meant to hold a chain link in position. I ground those out with a Dremel by trial and test until I got the exact depth to remove and re-install the roll pin. Only remove as much of the material as necessary.

    DSCF1500.JPG DSCF1504.JPG DSCF1505.JPG
    #126 4 years ago

    "Flipper Shaft Spacer"

    When doing a playfield swap, you'll need to drill 8 new holes for the flipper assembly bracket. The key is to have the flipper shaft dead-center in the hole as you make your adjustments.

    How to make it:

    Take one piece of electrical tape, sticky side out (about 1" long), and wrap it around the plastic. Note "where" you start and stop the wrap. You'll want to match up just "before" these two spots when you wrap your next piece sticky side down, so that you don't create an unbalanced wrap. You want "2 or 3" layers total to keep a perfect circle.

    Slide it off and back on and then place the assembly with the spacer on and verify that there is little to no wiggle room...

    good luck!
    -mof

    Here are the results of my first use of this DIY tool.

    201501-DIY-spacer1.jpg
    201501-DIY-spacer2.jpg

    Almost centered, not bad...
    201501-DIY-spacer-did-i-win.jpg

    #127 4 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    DIY "hex screw contact hubs."
    I'm working on my first playfield swap -- a 1986 Williams High Speed.
    I was not a fan of de-soldering hex nuts to remove wires (which burns the grey paint on the playfield as well), so that I could then solder-suck the hex screws some more to get them to fit. I'd say this is not an ideal set up. Perhaps it's a good cost-cutting move for the factory.
    I went through my parts buckets. I realize I already have the solution in there...
    Leaf switches...!

    I found a retail version of this: Solder lug connectors

    http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7327/7327K-ND/316696

    #128 4 years ago

    Yep, I get mine locally (when I need them) for $.05 each but they have a 90 degree bend in them.

    Steve

    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I found a retail version of this: Solder lug connectors
    http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7327/7327K-ND/316696

    #129 4 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I found a retail version of this: Solder lug connectors
    http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7327/7327K-ND/316696

    Awesome.
    Another day, another patent application to tear up and throw in the trash.
    -mof

    #130 4 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Awesome.
    Another day, another patent application to tear up and throw in the trash.
    -mof

    Sorry

    Just didn't want you to have to go through time and effort of making these whey they aren't that expensive to obtain.

    #131 4 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    1. Spiral Notebooks
    2. At 15 games in the collection, I realized I was starting to forget what work I did on each machine.
    3. I went to costco online and bought 20 x 70pp notebooks for like $23 shipped. I put one in each coinbox.

    I use Google Docs:

    notebooks.PNG

    Here's an example:

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ciP4L9xbAmltDYNxKwO6n3toQu3jyg1bo_pgfI2X6Bk/edit?usp=sharing

    #132 4 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    "Flipper Shaft Spacer"
    When doing a playfield swap, you'll need to drill 8 new holes for the flipper assembly bracket. The key is to have the flipper shaft dead-center in the hole as you make your adjustments.

    Coil sleeve works well for this also.

    Dana

    #133 4 years ago
    Quoted from swampfire:

    I use Google Docs:

    I use web-based "to-do" trackers for all the maintenance due on 16 games so I can plan from anywhere, but I stay old school for individual repairs to "remember" what I've done. If a friend borrows a machine, he can read and write in the notebook as well.

    -mof

    #134 4 years ago

    1) name of the tool: "The Wooden Knee"

    2) pic(s):
    JMS_4040.JPG
    JMS_4041.JPG

    3) problem it solves:
    Provides a stable platform for one end of your pin, while putting on legs.

    4) brief description of how to make it
    It's made of 2"x6" lumber I had laying around; I used angle brackets to make it more secure. Dimensions are 17" wide by 25.5" tall. The "double-T" profile makes it really secure. Long screws are used to attach the 2 parts of the upper "T". I added felt to the top and bottom to protect the game and the floor. Note: The 2 layers at the bottom are not necessary if you measure right from the start (I did not).

    I keep meaning to buy a handle, so it can be more easily grabbed and deployed. Something like this:
    safety-handle.jpg

    5. advantages over similar tools:
    It's relatively compact, and easier to remove one-handed than other "proppers" I've seen. It's rock-solid.

    #135 4 years ago

    Here's something I didn't invent, but it's my most valuable tool - I'd be lost without it. Around 2005, a local Georgia guy started up JoePinball.com and sold these for just $50. Hopefully he'll drop in on this thread and comment.

    1) name of the tool: "The Pin Pan"

    2) pic(s):
    JMS_4039.JPG
    JMS_4037.JPG
    JMS_4036.JPG

    3) problem it solves:
    Provides a large stable platform for your soldering iron or other tools. Cork protects your side rails and keeps the pan from sliding. It's made of aluminum (I think) so it's really light. I know I could make this out of wood, but I love the size and weight of the metal.

    4) How to make it:
    Cut the metal, bend the metal, rivet the metal and then put on the cork.

    5) Limitations:
    Widebodies need not apply.

    10
    #136 4 years ago

    These are PCB holders - two pieces of wooden dowel about 2 inches long, connected by some threaded inserts and a bit of threaded rod. Screw them together to clamp them onto the edge of a PCB and it stays nicely put, above the bench, for easy soldering. Assuming there's open space at the edges of the board somewhere, it lets you flip the board over easily to switch from soldering to debugging, and keeps any tall components from banging on the bench when you do so.

    When I'm working on a System 11 board, I can even leave clip leads for power connected when I flip the board, solder something, and flip back.

    I was looking for a cheap PCB holder, and couldn't find anything that met my definition of cheap, but looked like it would work for large PCBs. I did however find a reference to a test fixture system that used heavy metal cylinders that screwed down onto the PCB. I realized that if I did the same thing in wood, I'd have the perfect tool for what I'm doing, and one that fit my budget.

    My first attempt (shown in the pictures) had some issues with cutting the dowel flat (my manual miter box has more slop than I realized) and with drilling the holes centered (my drill press is all over the place). My second run went much better.

    I don't think the whole mess cost me more than $15 for six of those, which was plenty to clamp onto a System 11 board for bench work.

    IMG_20141109_210443_694.jpg IMG_20141109_205328_904.jpg
    #137 4 years ago
    Quoted from swampfire:

    Here's something I didn't invent, but it's my most valuable tool - I'd be lost without it. Around 2005, a local Georgia guy started up JoePinball.com and sold these for just $50. Hopefully he'll drop in on this thread and comment.
    1) name of the tool: "The Pin Pan"

    I would love something like this. If anyone has a lead, shoot me a line.

    #138 4 years ago
    Quoted from holmstarrunner:

    I would love something like this. If anyone has a lead, shoot me a line.

    Forget that, shoot us all a line, that thing is brilliant.

    #139 4 years ago
    Quoted from mhkohne:

    connected by some threaded inserts and a bit of threaded rod.

    For the non wood workers among us:

    http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/159290/Threaded-Insert---Brass---14-x-20-8-piece.aspx

    159290.jpg
    #140 4 years ago

    Made up this tool to overcome the worldwide disease of having sausage fingers,
    I use it to install the clips on the Pinbits's pressless Riveting Kit.
    Using a cut down mini snapon screwdriver I glued the Pinbits supplied tool to it
    making it a lot easier to tap the retainer over the rivet while trying to balance the rest of the job
    http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=72
    Rivet tool.jpg

    #141 4 years ago

    The pinpan is something I've been meaning to make for myself actually. I'd like to make one that just slid into the glass channel, that way it couldn't get accidentally lifted up and knocked over but also had a bit of reverse incline to sit flat. Heck, maybe even a built-in power strip to plug into the service outlet. After all, I often need both desoldering and soldering tools, maybe even a light for work.

    #142 4 years ago

    Is the main benefit of the pinpan, not having a towel with tools on it on top of another pin? (meaning not having a "slightly" unplayable other pin (until you move the towel)... (mild annoyance)
    -mof

    #143 4 years ago

    No, the main benefit is having your soldering iron right there by the parts you're soldering. And the tray is light enough that I just park my soldering stuff on it, so that when I need to solder something on a game, I can just pick up the tray and drop it in.

    #144 4 years ago
    Quoted from SchertzPinball:

    Pinball dolly made out of scrap 2x4 and lawn mower wheels. Slide it in between the front legs until only the handle is showing. Rolls nicely and pivots on a dime.
    Jason

    2012-10-25_19-43-50_830.jpg 369 KB

    looks cool but confused. any pics in action?

    #145 4 years ago
    Quoted from TurboBengal:

    looks cool but confused. any pics in action?

    It looks like the face that is on the floor is the one that is in contact with the pin.

    1 month later
    #146 4 years ago

    nothing I invented but was stuck last night... I needed to get far down to undo a playfield screw and couldn't find any tool I had that would work... sooo ... I improvised

    IMG_7956.JPG
    #147 4 years ago

    i had to take a picture so when I put everything back together I don't end up standing there looking at the parts and saying... well how the heck did I get that out??

    1 month later
    #148 4 years ago

    A testlamp constructed from 6V battery & pop bumper body for checking bulb connections
    & circuits.

    testlamp2.jpg

    #149 4 years ago

    Interested to know whether anyone has used these screw & nut starters & whether they are worthwhile pls? Thks.

    ebay.com link

    #150 4 years ago
    Quoted from wayner:

    Interested to know whether anyone has used these screw & nut starters & whether they are worthwhile pls?

    I had a screw starter like that. Worked good. Didn't last real long.

    LTG : )™

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