Ball Shooter Rod Assembly Hole Locator:

Problem: My home brew is non-standard in so many ways I could not use a template to be sure and get my shooter rod located in the exact center of my shooter lane.

Solution: I 3D printed 1 1/16 inch "half pinballs" to wrap around and offset a dowel which I could lay down in the grove of the shooter lane. Once this checked out, I put a tip on the dowel and dipped it in paint. With the dowel centered by the offsets I slid the dowel against the inside of the cabinet transferring a dot of paint to the wood. After drilling a pilot hole from the inside of the cabinet, the rest was easy.

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Need a small hole but your drill won’t fit next to all the mechs? Sharpen a welding (filler) rod. Work great even though there are no spirals and pushes right through 1/2” Playfield plywood.

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I've seen guys do something similar with a metal coat hanger, pilot holes through hardwood floors for electrical.

Been pulling my hair out trying to troubleshoot and adjust a Stern drop mech from Flight 2000 (a 9-wide mech populated by just 5 targets). The coils worked, the targets worked, and they would all reset and drop "by hand" but every time I installed it in the game, one or more would not drop or reset properly and/or reliably. This difference in reliability whereas my "hand resets" worked 100% of the time when it was out of the game, versus the electrical pulse of the game, was maddening.

This heavy bulky mech was annoying to remove time after time, and the game's self-test is too primitive, requiring to let it cycle all the solenoids to return to the drops: I was going to hear it in my sleep. And was also worried I might strip the holes in the playfield, bad enough just 4 screws hold this thing in.

Finally I remembered that in the box of power adapters I never throw away, were at least two from old desktop printers. Many of those are around 30V DC... just enough to fire a coil - and test a full mech - at the bench without having to install in the game:

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Just identify the + and - leads from the adapter, wire in some insulated alligator clips, then carefully and quickly touch them to the coil lugs: POW!

This worked great! With full visibility of the mech topside I could finally see that the pawls on the small coils were ever-so-slightly out of individual adjustment, in response to the coil's rapid firing (vs. my quickest "hand flick"), requiring various tweaks. Those adjustments - probably due to 40 years of wear on the parts - were stupid finicky and took several more tries at the bench, which easily saved me over an hour of back-forth-in-and-out-of-the-game-and-test-mode-again nonsense.

So if you have an old printer, don't throw the power brick away...

You could even plug it into a game's service outlet to test mechs in-game, with caution.

Updated link:

https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html

Wow great topic, quite some tricks i can use in my homebrew project

here's one of my first tools, my homemade rotisserie, i've made a little how-to you can find that here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-rotisserie-tipper-light-cheap-and-demountable

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I like this. But where are you buying that extruded aluminum at?

80/20 is the go to for most any custom frame setup. Good luck.

https://8020.net/?SID=h4dcrpsdtvp6thpfrd7b87m8i5

I don't know which version of the lift bar I have (mine is more like an L-channel) but I know the adjustment you're referring to. Previous owner(s) had set the far side (away from the coil) about 1/4" up. Which obviously helped it work, but then the targets on the end wouldn't sit flush to the pf when down either, and that also bugged me.

Fortunately on my mech, you don't have to "bend" the bar: there are set screws on the connected crank (you can see them in the photo I posted), so just loosen them, pivot the crank to adjust the height, and tighten.

And using my bench-test procedure I was able to lower the bar to properly level and flush rest, yet get the drops to function properly by adjusting the individual drop pawls (and replacing wonky springs, etc). But that's a real PITA requiring removal and possible disassembly... so for quick / op-level adjustments, the bar adjustment is understandably far easier!

Thank you.

the aluminium profiles are quite a common piece of hardware, i paid around 4€/meter locally in the netherlands , cut to my requested length

just google aluminium 2020 profile for a shop near you i guess

Yeah, I took my Nine Ball DT assembly apart, cleaned it up and put it all back together. I did it the same way as I did my 3 and 4 place drop targets. I just set everything to the bottom and tightened the L-shaped lift bar. I have other problems with my NB but drop target action is not one of them. I like this power brick idea for testing and if I ever run into a problem I will use that.

Wonder if this can be used on the Bally drops to figure out how to keep them from bricking? Might have to try that on the next Bally with bricking issues.

Bally drops are going to brick. You need to make mod if you seriously want them to not brick.

Se my post #2912 and my post #2938

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/2?tu=cottonm4

There is a separator plate that holds the drop targets in line. You can flip that plate over. Then you can either buy some Stern style drop targets or you can mod your Bally targets as I have done by super gluing some extensions on.

After watching my Hakko desolder gun fall off of the table and having the nozzle break and finding out nozzles are not cheap I did not want it to happen again. I thew this holder together this afternoon. If I like the way it works I may try to refine it a bit. But it looks like it will do the trick as it stands.

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Nice! Have yet to drop mine, & it WILL fit in the OE Hakko stand, but it's none too stable.

That Hakko stand is the proverbial "worthless as tits on a bar hog" variety.

Sigh...I've had mine slip out of the stand and drop to the floor twice in the past 5? years. Broke an element wire off the nozzle, and had to replace the nozzle. Second time, the blue plastic shell broke, so I had to transplant everything into a new shell. The temperature adjustment hasn't been quite the same since the transplant.

Nice job putting together a more stable stand

Thanks.

I hear you on the temperature being different. My new nozzle is much hotter. I did not notice that and ruined board.

Just so you know, the model Hakko FR-300 I have will be made obsolete sometime next year. It has been replaced with the FR-301. So if you need any parts, better load up now. I did not know this and ordered my parts from the wrong parts list that you have to dig a little deeper to find.

Last year, I bought some filters via Home Depot, but I like going to the source. They answer the phones and take phone orders. None of that being on hold and hearing " Your call is very important to us. Someone will be with you shortly."

https://www.hakkousa.com

EDIT: The stand is basically a couple of pieces of 2 x 4 and some deck screws. But I used a table saw and a band saw to crank it out.

Yeah, I've noticed that.

If this one breaks again, I'm just going to replace it with a FR-301. It doesn't quite work like it used to, and I spend more time unclogging the nozzle than actually desoldering. The list of improvements on the FR-301 looked promising.

Us old timers use the Hakko 808............

I resemble that remark! I love my Hakko 808.

Another Pinball Rotisserie having 3d printed pivots, locking knobs, carrier protectors, plus instructions:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4416849

This design uses doubled 2x4 for the uprights, cut to whatever length the builder desires for work height.
The cross-bases are 2x4, and the "feet" are 1x4.

The hardware is 1/4"-20 nuts, and 1/4"-20 hex screws of various lengths, plus a few wing nuts.

The playfield carriers are typical 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" plated, punched angle steel.

Here is something I have been working on. This is my prototype. I will need to make a cleaner set but these are working.

The back story: I hate adjusting flippers. Yes, I know some of the play fields have alignment pins and alignment holes, but I still have trouble getting them lined up and even on both sides.

It is a bummer to lower the play field, thinking I am done with the adjusting job only to see this that one of the flippers moved on me when I was trying to tighten them up.

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Here is what I came up with. They are long strips of polycarbonate (Lexan) I fold over to make hinges with. I installed 2 captive nuts for my adjustment screws.

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And they go here. These allow me to get both flippers set to the position I want.

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I loosen the flippers from underneath, and slip and slide these around until I get the position I want. Once I have them adjusted using the adjusting screws and some shim stock, I clamp them to the flippers and tape them to the apron. I also place my slotted credit card under the flipper to maintain the clearance between the flipper and bushing.

Then I lift the play field and as I am leaning hard on those Allen head locking screws, the flippers stay put to where I clamped them. I don't have to reach around to try and hold the flipper in position as I am tightening things up. These sort of work like a third hand.

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These are ugly but they work. I am going to be working to make a refined set.

This is a great idea. I could have used these today. I think we have all felt this pain at one point or another. I would buy a set if you made them once you worked out the design.

Awesome idea!! I always have to readjust mine because they move too. Going to have to take a shot at making something like these

I could make you a set once I figure out some improvements. I'll get back with you when my schedule allows.

that looks cool. I'm thinking magnets to hold it to apron. neat idea.

Thanks

I'm thinking strip magnets and I will probably try that, but a small piece of tape works very well holding my shim stock into position.

Reason: I have to use some shim stock that I made. Magnets may upset that. Or maybe it could be that I only use some strip magnet as shim stock, as well.

You should give it a try. You might see a new twist to making something like these.

www.thingiverse.com has a great 3d printed version of what you made. I had 2 printed and use them regularly. Very very similar to what you made. Check it out to get some ideas for your design.

Thanks for the link. But I don't know where to look when I get there. What are they called? Can you help, please.

Do you mean this?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1644154
I printed a couple and bought some of the levels. I haven't really messed with it yet.

The 3d printed ones see, to all force a single flipper angle, which seems sorta useless

I was worried about that as well. But you know what? it worked perfectly on every machine I've done. Bally, DE, Williams, and Gottlieb's. Of course, something like a Bally Space Invaders, it won't work. But the takeaway is that I found it weird that all the manufacturers seem to use the same angle.

What gottliebs? Every one I've ever looked at has had shallower inlanes than other games

Those look like they will work and do what is needed. But I don't have a 3D printer, so I have to pass. And some times I want my flippers to be set a little differently, so I need something I can adjust, which is why I cooked up those uglies I posted. I have tried them out and I am happy with how they are working. But I have to make some adjustments to make them easier to use.

Thanks for putting putting that link. It gave ma a couple of ideas.

I am not a mechanic simply a hobbyist but I came up with my own little tool for Pre-cleaning dirty play fields almost anything on EM game Maybe you remember and infomercial a few years ago about the dust buddy vacuum attachment. The reason you haven’t heard about it lately is because it sucked. We tried it in auto detail business and the tubes kept getting clogged but I saved one and adapted it to get Dirt and dust in the nooks and crannies.

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I found that cutting the ends off of the little brush is used to clean hearing aids I could hot glue them in the hands of a few of the spiderweb type tubes. I have never known it to scratch surfaces but I’ve only used it on a few games. I’m sure there are a lot of other Modifications that could be done. I only have one game and it’s really clean.

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Thanks for the upvote. Did I mention you hook the other end to a vacuum cleaner? way better!

Just wanted to update thread #428 with the coil sleeve remover. Loved the tool so much that I reached out to PinballJunkie to see if I can sell them in my in my shop. He was fine with me making and selling them.

Great tool to have on hand. If you missed out on them before, they are now in stock!

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I've got 2 items here, only one is homemade but the other is based on one.

harig posted their homemade deep clamp for leveling raised inserts in a post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/139#post-5635204

I don't have the ability to make one, but fortunately Harbor Freight has a reasonably good substitute for just a few bucks: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-deep-throat-c-clamp-45919.html

It really allows you to warm up a raised insert and clamp it down until its smooth clamping down a raised insert

the second one is an actual homemade. My Whirlwind has a raeasonably good playfield that is mostly covered by mylar. I'm trying not to make it nicer without having to tear it 100% apart. So I pulled most of the easy stuff off the playfield and gave it a good cleaning. The mylar cleans up nicely but it was pretty scratched up and dull looking.

I wanted to polish it but I didn't want to have to take everything apart. I was unable to find a small polishing tool, so I whipped one up.

I used one of those flapper sanding wheels, Stuck a piece of velcro to the end of it. Then I grabbed one of my old big foam polishing discs and cut a small circle of it. Since it was velcro-backed I could simply stick it on and put the whole thing in the drill. This allows me to polish the playfield and do the mylar without worrying about grinding off the paint in the non-mylar areas.the personal polisher toolmini-polishing in process

My first rotisserie was rather weak and flimsy so I took another crack it it.

It is sloppy, and loose, but solid. I wanted it to flex to keep the play field from getting in any kind of bind.

It cost me a couple of 2 x 3 boards, some deck screws, and two wooden wheels from Home Depot; The wheels were $15.00 each, so about $40.00 for the complete build.

The problem with my first rotisserie was that, because of the play field clamps, I would have to remove the play field to be able to install the back wooden rail and also install the ball launcher parts.

I sat this up with outriggers so I can assemble the play field 100% complete before I remove the play field from the rotisserie.

The wooden wheels pivot on some broomstick I salvaged.

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I had drill some locking holes in the wheels and my cross brace so I can pin the play field into any angle that I want to work with .

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Locating and locking the play field to the rotisserie is accomplished by using the 2 large tooling holes the factory used for what ever purpose.

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The play field is locked down with some small pieces of wood I cut for the purpose.

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The cardboard acts as a spacer and as a form of dry lubricant.

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I need to remake the wooden clamps to allow for the crosswise wooden rail to fit into position.

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By using the factory tooling holes I was able to make some open space on both ends of the play field. This will allow me to install everything before removing the play field. This is something that cannot be down with the play field being clamp to a cross bar.

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I have this rotisserie mounted on a table top. When I am done, it will break down and sit in a corner somewhere out of the way.

It is ugly. I threw it together. It is sloppy and loose; By design. It is loose with no chance of putting the play field in a bind as I rotate it.

While it is ugly, it works quite well. And it is solid as a rock and swings freely. I could make it again and make it pretty but will probably not mess with that.

Great idea! Pretty slick.

There is a lot of great stuff on this post. Here is one of mine. It is a Fuse & Bulb Tester. It tests bulbs and flasher including LED bulbs.

To test/adjust target reset mechs while the playfield is still on the rotisserie
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Are there any Jones plug extension cords? When I have the pf out on the rotisserie and am trying to check through things the length of the cords makes it a lot harder than it needs to be

Nice tester, just bought one on ebay! Good job with the 3d printing the case!