Thx for the heads up on the felt. I'm going to so the same.
The thickness has not been an issue so far ...

My DIY QuickCart & Toolbot3000
The QC is 14"x36" & cost about $15
The TB3000 is based on Adam Savage's rolling tool stand (tools with stadium seating).
The top box detaches from the mothership for field missions around the compound.

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Yesterday, I had to use the coil sleeve remover that I bought from you. First, to drive an old sleeve out and then drive a new one back in. This is about the best $20.00 I think I have spent for specialized tool. Just handy as hell.

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I have used mine several times already. It is a great tool! I don’t know how many coil sleeves I’ve had to break apart because they were stuck with a thick layer of wd40. Ive not had to use it to put a new sleeve in yet but I imagine it will work flawlessly

How bad is the "slippage" when lifting/lowering a pin?

Not bad. To properly deal with it, I added felt to the bottom of the jack, then as I lift I push against the drill to keep skidding the jack forward in order to keep the base pad of the jack flat on the floor. It's pretty easy to do. I've used mine about 25 times already in just one week!

Here's a video
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gameroom-advice/page/4#post-5105349

Here's my sub $50 rotisserie I made.

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I want to add hanging plastic bins that'll hook over the crossbar under the playfield.

Maybe add some kind of tool rack as well for screwdrivers and such.

Two things I like the most about it that I can take it apart with 4 screws and store it under my workbench.
The other is that I can wheel a chair right up to it without hitting anything so I can get really close up by not having lower braces across the bottom.

-Paul

I would be careful using solid wood for your semi-circle... wood has grain and can split along the grain under torque or pressure. The plywood at 3/4" just won't do that as it has many layers perpendicular to each other and the strength of the added glue. The semi-circles take ALL the weight when you rotate the game down from its vertical orientation

Just something to consider and it might work just fine

I like this design. The wood looks nice and will lay flat when disassembled

I use a short length of 2x4 with my HF hydraulic cart. I lay it flat or on edge in the cart to provide 2 heights of lift stop, which is perfect for use with the modified handle. I also use it on edge on top of the lift to raise the sides or front/back of the pin to adjust leg levelers. Using it as a leveling aid is clutch.

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Decided to upgrade my home made rotisserie. V1 vs V2

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I needed to do something to get more organized so I picked up a couple of mid-sized drawer cabinets
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TV3NL0
then I used some cheapie wood and built a little rollaround cart for them. They are bolted to the wood and the wide base with casters keeps it from tipping over. Now to populate it!

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I hope those drawers semi-lock in place. One wrong move and you'll have parts and drawers all over the place.

Some small blocks of wood in front of each side of each section of drawers might do the trick.

Or, take out the drawers, drill a few holes, and screw them down.

The drawer cabinets are screwed to the wood, however I iwll have to see if the drawers themselves will fall out once filled with parts, might need some bungie cords across each row or something.

Get some acrylic sheet and make a couple of hinged doors like your kitchen cabinets.

What did you use to make them? Off the shelf stuff, or did you do some welding?

Welding square tubes

This is a cheaper version I did a few years ago when I started TCPB. Been thinking about upgrading and I think you have the right idea. Maybe with smaller drawers up top and two sided. (I have a ton of parts...)

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I came up with the 2 jam nuts and washer trick a couple of years ago for leveling a play field. Today, instead of a socket and ratchet, I employed the cordless drill.

The factory jam nut is below the leg and cannot be seen. Screw the leveler with jam nut onto the leg and add the jam nuts and washer. If you give them enough torque you do not need any thread locker.

You can adjust up or down. Adjusting the rear legs upward works OK but if you are doing a fresh setup, it works better to raise the rear levelers all the way up and lower them into position with the drill.

You need a 3/8" drive socket adaptor (Harbor Freight) and a Harbor Freight swivel extension plus the correct size socket.

Works like a charm with the drill and socket doing the heavy lifting.

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Finally made myself a rotisserie. It was so easy using the miter saw stand as the base. You’ll save yourself a lot of time and aggravation.The video I used to get the plans from is here:

http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/the-canadian-arcade-how-to-build-the-best-diy-pinball-playfield-rotisserie.8480/

Also made the pinball lift today which is mentioned in post #498. I got my jack as an amazon warehouse deal so it was half the price than retail.

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/lift/

I have made pinstadium alternatives.
These are battery powered and stick on the outside of the machine.
I originally designed them to provide good even light while streaming, but can see the benefit in replacing people wearing LED headlamps or magnetic lamps in competition and arcades.
You can read more about them here:
https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/portable-pinstadium-alternative.44412/

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How is the glare? I considering doing this for a client, but glare was a worry.

Not sure exactly what you mean by glare.
As can be seen in the last pic, you can see reflection of the LED strip by the sides, but there is no external bleed of light up and away from the machine due to the additional trim I have added.
There is also no reflection off the playfield itself.

There are sample pics of a dozen or so machines they've been fitted to on PinballInfo.com

Been wanting to do something along this route for my older machines. Thanks for showing the way!

Or, nevermind. I thought you were sharing with the crowd. Good luck with your sales and keep an eye out for a cease and desist.

Fabricated a rivet setting tool with 4 inch wide access for getting to hard to reach places particularly within trade stimulators.

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Dude! Plans, Parts, sourcing.... don't leave us hanging. Specifically the dies.. which ones did you use.

I'm on this.
faz

The dies look so self made as well.
@wayner: Do you mind sharing some detailled Pics and maybe some measurements. Looks doable as I have acces to a lathe. They need to be hardened?
Thx!

For those of us with a low ceiling and limited space ...

I used 4 furniture moving wheels with a hole in the center pad.
The pinball legs were attached using the existing leveler - or with a nut between the leg and the moving wheels to lift it up.

I also sacrificed 4 legs and made extra (lower) holes for the bolts so I had space to put the playfield up 90 degrees without hitting the ceiling.

Probably not something to transport the pinball over long distances, but for moving it around in a room or pulling it out from the wall it works really well.

Moving wheels were bought here : https://www.jula.no/catalog/bygg-og-maling/beslag/innretningsbeslag/mobelhjul-flyttere/mobelhjulsett-333111/
... but they probably exist on Ebay, Walmart etc.

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No plans, no dies, no sophistication but it works.

The components consist of some pieces of scrap mild steel flats (1in x 1/8in and 1/2in x 1/8in profiles) to form the frame; a 5/16in NC coupler to take the screw thread; a 5/16 NC hex 3in bolt with head chopped & lathe turned (the only component requiring specialised equipment) to gain the screw thread point for a 1/8in tubular rivet; the top of a cup head bolt to form the bottom or rivet head die centre drilled to form a cup to take the rivet head; hex head re-welded to screw thread.

No hardening as I will only be using aluminium rivets and the outer dimensions were determined by my needs and, of course, can be varied to suit different needs. Total cost of tool $7.50. I really needed the wide 4in tool to get to difficult access places and the commercially available tool I believe only gives 2 1/2in width and is quite expensive.

The tool is not with me on holidays at the moment but if you need further details just let me know.

Here's my solution for working on the backsides of those pesky Williams System 11 backboards

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thanks a lot for the details!
Happy new year!

Awesome description. I get what you did. I've been toying with the idea of trying to make my own but the alignment of purchased dies and/or making my own dies kinda scared me. I'm gonna try this. Which rivets did you use? I want to get rivets soft enough to not need the hardened steel.

Thanks for posting this!!
faz

Thanks for your kind comments-really glad the description has been of some help.

These tubular rivets seemingly are difficult to come by down here so I put together a small order on Marco to get a reasonable range of 1/8in rivets (well documented on the Marco website) in various lengths which has suited my needs to date. PBR also carries them and I think cheaper but Marco at the time had a more economical shipping cost for me.

PinRestore sells a nice rivet starter kit for $30. The rivets he includes in the kit are nickel plated brass rivets. For "softness", these would be perfect for you.

http://pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

They also sell the hand held rivet roll over punch for $28....I've done probably over 1000 rivets with this tool.

Missed you being on the other side of the planet. The interwebs are wonderful! It's already 2020 for you... I'm still stuck in the last decade

Yup, I was looking at that very item this morning before I posted.

I've seen the hand punch but wondered how do you back the other side? Block of wood?

Thanks,
faz

I only use steel rivets and I know a block of wood would not be sufficient to support the head. I posted a video here on Pinside a few years ago showing how to use the hand held roll over tool.....1st post on this thread...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swords-of-fury-custom-ramps/page/8

Anyway, in that video I just support the rivet head in one of the jaws on my vice... I actually ground a couple indentations in the top of my vice for the rivet head to sit into. I do most of my work with a rivet press, but it cannot get to everything....so If I can't use the jaw of the vice, I use a 3/8" bolt that I also ground an indentation into (Thread end). I clamp that in my vice sticking up maybe 1.5". I position the head of the rivet on the end of that bolt and then, just like in the video above, hammer away.

The trick to semi-tubular rivets, is picking the proper length of rivet for what you are assembly. The bottom of the rivet (tubular end) should protrude beyond what you are riveting by approximately just under 1/8". This protrusion is what is rolled over. When you use the proper length rivet, as you pound (or press) the rivet, it can really only go so far before the roll over tool encounters the solid center of the rivet. Go slow at first.....If the work isn't tight, just hammer it a little further.

Also always remember to use a washer when the rolled over portion of the rivet would impact plastic (Just look at the bottom side of pretty much any ramp flap)

One morning I needed to bend some metal but didn't have a brake. A quick design and a few pieces of scrap resulted in this pos. I was able to put a 90 in 2"x1/8" using my breaker bar without much effort. The entire thing is about 8"x8"x2". I love having a welder and horizontal bandsaw.
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I’m trying to visualize how you work it. Can you put another pic with it in some kind of action pose?

Thanks

It's just a simple manual press brake. Insert your material in the middle and crank on the bolt with a big wrench until you get your bend.

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That is nice. What is the heaviest gauge metal, steel or aluminum, that you have worked with it?

What's in the picture is the max I have done so far and it is pushing the screw to it's limit. This is either 2"x1/8" or 2"x3/16", i'm leaning towards 3/16". If I go any thicker than this a welded angle would be the easiest route for me.

What is the size of the bolt you're using?

I don't know if this qualifies as a "tool". I use a pair of machine screws as handles whet I want to run a standoff against the buffing wheel.

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Can't recall the exact size. It's the same thread as the leaf spring bolt from my old jeep, that's where the nut came from.

This is such a no brainer, but yet insanely brilliant at the same time!

Can't believe I hadn't thought of this.

Chris

You are not looking in the right places for rivets,PSPA have all the right sizes
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/catalogsearch/result/?q=rivet

Well I have certainly looked in that place Gibo and generally there are not sufficient specs against each rivet to accurately determine their size. I have also experienced difficulty in the past purchasing items off that site so for me a wide berth. I am happy to purchase from the US supplier where specs are clear and service assured but thks for taking the trouble to post.

That may be the case for you but I have never had a problem getting rivets here in Australia