(Topic ID: 65459)

Show and Tell: Your DIY Homemade Tools


By mof

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 485 posts
  • 168 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 hours ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 209 Pinsiders
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    Topic index (key posts)

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    There are 485 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 10.
    #451 33 days ago
    Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

    LOL, yeah I suspect I know which company you are thinking of . . .

    I cannot speak for today, but a long time ago, UPS hired lobbyists to constantly push for the USPS to raise its rates. If Uncle Sugar jacked the mailing rates then UPS got to raise its rates, too.

    #452 32 days ago

    It was mentioned earlier, a 5/16 or 8 mm nut driver works perfect. Standard and Metric set of nut drivers at Harbor Freight less than $15.

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    #453 32 days ago
    Quoted from PinballJunkie:

    I have a bunch of these stainless 1/2" coil sleeve removers for sale. Two for $20 including shipping. E-transfer to frankrauche@sympatico.ca with your address. Please allow 2 weeks as I live in Canada. Thanks guys. [quoted image]

    Added 4 days ago: Oops I guess not too many people use e-transfer. You can pay me at paypal.me/pinparts Thanks.

    I just placed an order. Paypal charged me a buck, maybe for international fees? I agree the nut driver works sometimes, but if this works 100% all of the time it will be well worth the money.

    #454 31 days ago

    Here is a quick update. I shipped out 12 packages last week, with the last 2 yesterday. I'll just post your 1st and last initials for privacy reasons. GH,TS,PF,JM,DB,CD,TT,CP,JA,MJ,JF,EM. I think 2 were not sent small package airmail by accident so they may take a bit longer. Let me know of any problems.
    Thank you,
    Frank

    #455 31 days ago

    Thought I would show some of you folks a small tip that you may not know. If you have ever made your own plastic or sling protectors out of acrylic or poly carbonate, you should put a small flat on both cutting edges of the drill. This will prevent the drill from pulling itself in too fast and cracking the plastic. You can use a sharping stone or grinder. You only need a tiny flat for this to work. (This is also the standard for drilling brass)

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    #456 30 days ago
    Quoted from PinballJunkie:

    Thought I would show some of you folks a small tip that you may not know. If you have ever made your own plastic or sling protectors out of acrylic or poly carbonate, you should put a small flat on both cutting edges of the drill. This will prevent the drill from pulling itself in too fast and cracking the plastic. You can use a sharping stone or grinder. You only need a tiny flat for this to work. (This is also the standard for drilling brass) [quoted image][quoted image]

    This is a real nice tip !

    #457 26 days ago
    Quoted from PinballJunkie:

    Here is a quick update. I shipped out 12 packages last week, with the last 2 yesterday. I'll just post your 1st and last initials for privacy reasons. GH,TS,PF,JM,DB,CD,TT,CP,JA,MJ,JF,EM. I think 2 were not sent small package airmail by accident so they may take a bit longer. Let me know of any problems.
    Thank you,
    Frank

    I received my package a couple of days ago and gave the punch a try out. It works quite well. Thank you.

    #458 23 days ago

    Man I hate leveling machines. I managed to mess up my knee pretty bad last winter while lifting games on my back. I’d use the Escalera lift but it’s no good on plush carpet.

    My OCD has got me shuffling games around - and needing to level about half the collection.

    So, let’s work smarter instead of harder.

    Pry bar from Home Depot
    almostworks.

    21 inch pry bar from DeWalt

    However, that notch in it really is good for two things. Praying crap apart, or locking onto leg bolts and making them hard to turn. I should have take “before” photos, I have this instead.

    Pry edge

    Last time I had a leveling party we made it work but it kinda sucked. So, let’s see what we can do to improve it.

    Step one, grind that hole a lot bigger. I don’t have a full shop but I do have a bench grinder to do the rough grinding quickly; and the the dremil cutting disc to widen that gap deeper in where the grinder won’t go. A file afterwords to take off the rough edges, and we now have a pocket big enough to wrap around the bolt loosely.

    After grinding

    The other part of the equation was getting a block underneath; without this there’s not enough pivot lifting action. I was carrying around a board but that is awkward. I cut a price of it off, and attached it like this with a wood acre and fender washer.

    With wood block attached

    The only change I might do (having just leaved 9 machines) would be the dimensions of the wood block. Maybe a hair longer. I can rotate the block by and and choose how close the pivot point is next to the game’s leg. Making the block slightly longer would give me a bit more versatility.

    Not much of a tool hack but my back and knees are thanking me.

    #459 23 days ago
    Quoted from jfesler:

    Man I hate leveling machines. I managed to mess up my knee pretty bad last winter while lifting games on my back. I’d use the Escalera lift but it’s no good on plush carpet.
    My OCD has got me shuffling games around - and needing to level about half the collection.
    So, let’s work smarter instead of harder.
    Pry bar from Home Depot

    almostworks.
    [quoted image]
    However, that notch in it really is good for two things. Praying crap apart, or locking onto leg bolts and making them hard to turn. I should have take “before” photos, I have this instead.
    [quoted image]
    Last time I had a leveling party we made it work but it kinda sucked. So, let’s see what we can do to improve it.
    Step one, grind that hole a lot bigger. I don’t have a full shop but I do have a bench grinder to do the rough grinding quickly; and the the dremil cutting disc to widen that gap deeper in where the grinder won’t go. A file afterwords to take off the rough edges, and we now have a pocket big enough to wrap around the bolt loosely.
    [quoted image]
    The other part of the equation was getting a block underneath; without this there’s not enough pivot lifting action. I was carrying around a board but that is awkward. I cut a price of it off, and attached it like this with a wood acre and fender washer.
    [quoted image]
    The only change I might do (having just leaved 9 machines) would be the dimensions of the wood block. Maybe a hair longer. I can rotate the block by and and choose how close the pivot point is next to the game’s leg. Making the block slightly longer would give me a bit more versatility.
    Not much of a tool hack but my back and knees are thanking me.

    Your tool looks interesting. But I am not visualizing how you use it.

    Can there be a pic posted of it in use, please?

    #460 23 days ago

    Most of my games have the front levelers all the way down and the rears all the way up. Will that type of tool work on both?

    11
    #461 23 days ago

    I found the lowest front levers I have and demo it here. Note lifting the game easily single headed.
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    #462 23 days ago
    Quoted from jfesler:

    I found the lowest front levers I have and demo it here. Note lifting the game easily single headed.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    That’s pretty cool. I’m going to get a bigger toolbox.

    #463 23 days ago

    As a recent member of the 50 yr old club, I approve of the prybar concept.

    #464 23 days ago
    Quoted from jfesler:

    I found the lowest front levers I have and demo it here. Note lifting the game easily single headed.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Please allow me to be cheeky and make a suggestion to your level lifter that I have only seen on your pics.

    With what you have, from what I can see, is your one hand is married to the pry bar and you are left with only one hand free to adjust the level.

    I’m thinking you could get a piece of 3/4” x 4” piece of pine about 18” to 24” long. Then set this under your piece of pivot wood. At the other end, incorporate a door hook or some light weight chain to allow you to “lock” the bar into the “up” position. This would allow both hands to be free in case you had the situation of a frozen leg leveler. You could raise it up and leave it raised if something comes up like a phone call or the wife says lunch is ready.

    Thanks for thinking this tool up !

    2 weeks later
    #465 7 days ago
    Quoted from PinballJunkie:

    I have a bunch of these stainless 1/2" coil sleeve removers for sale. Two for $20 including shipping. E-transfer to frankrauche@sympatico.ca with your address. Please allow 2 weeks as I live in Canada. Thanks guys. [quoted image]

    Added 29 days ago: Oops I guess not too many people use e-transfer. You can pay me at paypal.me/pinparts Thanks.

    I received my set Saturday. I already have put them to use. If you are on the fence about getting a set I assure you they are well worth the money. Thanks again Frank.

    #466 7 days ago
    Quoted from goingincirclez:

    You shouldn't lift using the base panel. They're not meant to lift or bear the load of a 200+lb game!
    Even if there are braces (sometimes there aren't), usually there is a 1/2" to 1" gap between the brace and the bottom panel (as you know because that's inevitably where every #^&%@ dropped screw wants to go)...
    It is a TERRIBLE idea to flex the panel a half inch when it often has only 1/4" or less extra width locking into the side slots: you might crack the panel (remember, the manufacturers used whatever scrap / crap material was convenient for this non-structural part, so is it even in good shape to begin with?), or even pop the panel out. And sometimes the braces aren't too sturdy either: I've seen them loose (with short tenons and/or glue cracked from age), and it was not hard to imagine them buckling and popping out of the side walls. The braces support a small load from above. They're not meant to bear the full load of the game once the legs are off the floor. Maybe bearing the weight of a lifted game will be the thing that finally *makes* them loose. Do you feel lucky?
    Always lift the cabinet side walls. You can slide the cart under from the side (it might take a couple tries to find the right center balance point as every game is different), or use boards to extend the cart platform width if inserting from the front.

    Hmm, I've been doing it for 20+ years. Many many games. Upstairs, downstairs, etc. and never had a single problem. Can anyone chime in if their panel has ever broke to confirm this?

    #467 7 days ago
    Quoted from jfesler:

    I found the lowest front levers I have and demo it here. Note lifting the game easily single headed.

    Reminds me of a drywall lifter, except you use your foot with a drywall lifter. A little cutout in the end would make it stable on the leveling foot thread.

    amazon.com link »

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    #468 4 days ago

    My poor man's stool.

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    #469 2 days ago

    Your post made me think of this leg prop I made a long time ago, use it all the time. I am pretty sure I got the idea somewhere in some repair guide or video.

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    #471 2 days ago
    Quoted from jeffk:

    Your post made me think of this leg prop I made a long time ago, use it all the time. I am pretty sure I got the idea somewhere in some repair guide or video.[quoted image]

    That's cool. Looks even more unstable than mine!

    That's so much nicer... one of these days...

    #472 2 days ago

    Anybody have a good design for a little table to place between the machines to put a beer on? Preferably immune to nudging!

    #473 2 days ago
    Quoted from Marten:

    Anybody have a good design for a little table to place between the machines to put a beer on? Preferably immune to nudging!

    Most of the time, I see these: https://www.pinballlife.com/pingulp-beverage-caddy-pro.html

    #474 2 days ago

    We have a few of these but would like to see if we can build something out of wood. The pin gulps are quite expensive over here and it's for a game room with about 30 machines.

    #475 2 days ago
    Quoted from Marten:

    Anybody have a good design for a little table to place between the machines to put a beer on? Preferably immune to nudging!

    Here's my cheap ass beer holders ~$6 CDN. Holds a can or bottle perfectly snug and secure. Ali-Express Baby Stroller Cup Holder from https://tinyurl.com/y4f4w8aw , double hole washers and 1" stove bolts. Have them on all 12 of my pins. And the little clamps that aren't needed are good for other things you might want to clamp.

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    #476 2 days ago
    Quoted from Mageek:

    Here's my cheap ass beer holders

    Hey, those are cool!

    #477 2 days ago

    Thanks, my thinking is same as yours, the landed cost of a PinGulp is at least $25 CDN x 12 Pins = $300, too much for me.

    #478 1 day ago

    I saw these in Electric Bat Arcade in Tempe, AZ. I liked them so I snapped a pic. Would be cool with a pinball flyer on the top surface.
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    #479 1 day ago
    Quoted from jeffc:

    I saw these in Electric Bat Arcade in Tempe, AZ. I liked them so I snapped a pic. Would be cool with a pinball flyer on the top surface.
    [quoted image]

    I wonder what keeps these from falling over. Were they bolted down?

    #480 1 day ago
    Quoted from Marten:

    I wonder what keeps these from falling over. Were they bolted down?

    Looks like 1/4" steel base, with a second plate on top. If the table top is just plywood, there's no way it's going to move.

    #481 1 day ago
    Quoted from jeffc:

    I saw these in Electric Bat Arcade in Tempe, AZ. I liked them so I snapped a pic. Would be cool with a pinball flyer on the top surface.
    [quoted image]

    Logan Arcade in Chicago has something similar, but taller and longer and has coathooks underneath

    #482 1 day ago
    Quoted from Marten:

    I wonder what keeps these from falling over. Were they bolted down?

    They were not bolted down. I think they were just wood, so they were prone to tipping. But still quite useful.

    #483 1 day ago
    Quoted from jeffc:

    They were not bolted down. I think they were just wood, so they were prone to tipping. But still quite useful.

    I see welds.

    #484 1 day ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Logan Arcade in Chicago has something similar, but taller and longer and has coathooks underneath

    Would the hooks accommodate my tote bag?

    #485 22 hours ago
    Quoted from yaksplat:

    I see welds.

    Good eye !

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