Depends. Is this "Krylon" Thriple Thick? Recently we had a post about a bad experience from someone using what he said was Rustolium Thriple Thick. And none of us knew that it existed.

I still have a few cans or the original Krylon from a case I bought 15 years ago. You never know when they will change the recipe.

To the original question, I would say yes. Unless you have this pin in a nice climate controlled area the will never experience temperature or humidity change.

Read up on putting a few business cards on the score window and shooting a few thin coats on the back.

+1

once you get good at the rattle spray you can do the triple thick nearly glass clear and not mask the score windows. =D

But since he is asking I doubt he's going to be that good. I've done it for decades and can still get a haze. I don't know if it is my spraying, climate, something one the glass because you don't "clean" the back before spraying (unless you have a good method for that I don't know, some times the bubble or lift has begun and you're not going to get harsh) . . .

But I'd rather have it bare than a hazy textured surface. Then you get pissed and pull out the razor blade to scrape the window clean. Then you get real careful to get as close as you can keeping a straight line without nicking any paint . . . .

Chuck from the "Wicked Pissah Pinball Pit" (you may heard about him from the Slam Tilt Podcast or Twitch) says to not do it unless it is starting to flake. I tend to agree as well. I mean if the thing is mint, leave it be. It's like removing mylar from a game only to clearcoat it. It's unnecessary and you really have to weigh the risks with the condition.

But you might buy a brand-new CPR glass because yours got smashed. But the game in a garage or damp basement.

Gets hazy and dusty when the spray too far back. Seems excessive but i get the best results with wet coats.

I screwed up more times trying to mask and not getting it perfect... overspray, masking issues lifting paint etc. Everyone has what works for them!

Agreed, different people and techniques. One time I was doing an Haunted House EM Gun Game backglass and decided blue tape cut to fit the waves was the only way I'd be happy before doing the spray.

For what it's worth, I used to triple thick every glass I owned. Incidentally, at that time, every glass I owned was flaking to some capacity.

That was in 2004. While I have sold a handful of games I triple thicked then, the ones I've kept have not seen any adverse effects from using the sealant, and this includes temperature changes as well. They're all still fine, and look the same as the day I sealed them.

I've heard people run into issues when their first coat is heavy and wet. I've had great luck doing several very light, almost misty coats, until I get the desired level of sealant applied to the glass. Also, I stopped using business cards to mask off the score windows. I had a single glass where the card stuck to the paint, and pulled some up after I removed it. Since then, I spray over the glass windows and scrape the excess off. It's time consuming, but it works.

I have used the Krylon on 4 back glasses, one of them a white knuckle (it was a great example of Fireball Classic) and will probably use it again.
Experience with 1-5 West System epoxy tells me its probably a better way to go, just haven't figured out the proper technique.
The UV resistant hardener would be a must.
The Triple Thick is a great product for an unusual application,I like it and think it helps, even on cracked glasses( with proper prep, of course.

I've never had any problems with Triple Thick. You must only use it during low humidity though. I always clean the back of the glass as needed beforehand, but be sure let it dry thoroughly. Then I cut out small rectangles of card stock, and cover the score reel windows and replay meter window, plus any other clear areas. Love doing woodrail backglasses with light up scoring. They're easy!
Spray a fairly heavy coat in one direction, wait a few minutes and spray a second coat in the other direction. I try to spray it in strong direct sunlight. It dries to the touch in about twenty minutes, but I always wait a few days before installng the glass in the game.
I've done many backglasses that had little or no flaking, to insure that they stay that way. I wouldn't expose a sealed glass to very cold temperatures though.

If it has stayed mint all these years, why would you want to mess with perfection?

Please do not use Triple Thick on a backglass that shows no signs of paint lifting or paint cracking. Keep the backglass out of direct sunlight and it should be fine...

The way I look at this situation is that right now you have a really nice backglass that makes you happy.
If you Triple Thick it you will either still have a really nice backglass or you will have a "...what the heck happened, it was perfectly fine before..." backglass.

Been both places. You can't un-ring this bell so make your decision carefully.

Alan

if it's mint, never EVER triple thick. Triple thick is for when a backglass is flaking off badly and you want to salvage what little ink is left. ONce you triple thick there is NO going back and now the glass is forever fragile to extreme temp changes either hot or cold. I've seen glass left in a car in winter for a couple of hours triple thicked and it contracted at a different rate than the ink. Pulled off all the ink off the glass and it basically looked like a window.

Yup, if there's nothing wrong with it, leave it be. Just make sure it lives in a space that has a reasonably stable temperature and humidity.

Came across this post and i need some advice. Due to covid19 i am having to relocate to a home that the only possible space for my 6 EM pins is in a room inside of a garage.not up to code or proper insulated walls so temp is usually around what it is like outside. Wondering if i keep dehumidifer running 24/7 365 next to the pins as well as a heater during the cold months will the pins stay ok?. I have no other place to put them if i want to play them.please advice helps. I got some rare games and would hurt to see the playfields start planking or the backglass start flaking.

Thanks for the info so even during winter it should be fine? Or should i at least bring the backglass in? Nd these are my titles

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Pinaddict - you do not mention/show a location, 'winter' does not define the temp range that you are up against. I would suspect that Mopar's barn situation does not coincide well with a room in a garage. Interior barn temps tend to change slowly - a lot of mass, large area tho summer humidity can be an issue. The room may be greatly influenced by the opening and closing of the garage, solar warming, cold drafts. If room is not insulated the fluctuation in temps could damage the art. If you can maintain a fairly constant temp that changes slowly and dehumidify at a reasonable cost you should be fine but sounds difficult in the space as described.

You might consider removing the backglasses before extreme temps set in. Store them for a bit where climate is more stable and pop them back in when days are better. Its a pain but once de-lamination starts . . .

Great wedges and a EB. Nice.

Cheers
Tom

This is going to be my man cave area so im gonna have them set up and play them daily with all this free time being laid off from covid19. The room is not insulated properly as it was a 3 car garage but made it into a 2 car garage and installed a window. I will have the dehumidifer setup running 24/7 w a.c if needed during summer and small heater during winter but with 6 pins & 2 old coca cola machines i have no other room for them even to store them (besides taking the glass out during winter if needed) i live in central virginia

There's a difference between storing games and playing games in a non-climate controlled environment. I think you really should do everything you can to stabilize the temperature and humidity as much as possible since you are going to be playing them.
You wouldn't want to turn on and play an ice cold machine. The sudden warming of the backglass and playfield inserts by the lamps could be detrimental. Running a heater in the winter, and a dehumidifier in the summer is a good idea for sure.

Alright so that combo will make it be ok?. Thanks for the info with over 12k in games i just want to make sure they stay safe

It will go a long way to preserving their current condition. There are other things you can do as well, like using #47 lamps, or even (gasp!) LEDs.

My Paul Bunyan was was kept in a non-climate controlled basement in Maryland for a few years. The playfield has pretty bad planking as a result. I wouldn't keep a game in a non-climate controlled room in a state with extreme cold and humidity. My 2 cents.

I'm loving the LEDs I got for my Grand Champions. I'm using #47 lamps under the plastics but I'm planning to add LEDs under the inserts when I level them.

The second photo has an LED bulb in one pop bumper and a #47 bulb in the other. Can you tell which one has the LED bulb?

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