(Topic ID: 325823)

Shop Log: 1976 Gottlieb Volley

By tinyrodent

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

I'm currently shopping Volley for a buddy. I like to keep him updated on the progress, and text messages were getting cumbersome, so I'll try posting here instead.

Today I started work on the top side of the playfield. There are no major issues, it's just been a long time since it was cleaned properly.
Playfield BeforePlayfield Before

First layer of parts removed, reveals a bit of paint damage behind the blue targets, but nothing too serious.
Playfield Strip 1Playfield Strip 1

All parts removed. Underneath the plastic posts, all of the colors are much brighter. I hope cleaning and waxing can restore some of that to the rest of the artwork. Most of the playfield is in decent condition, exceptions being the ball arch track, and some wear around the pop bumpers with low quality touchups.
Playfield Strip 2Playfield Strip 2

#2 1 year ago

Mylar under the pop bumpers is completely detached from the playfield. Not sure that's helping much...
Mylar LiftedMylar Lifted

Pop bumper caps in fair condition, not great. Tabs are broken off two of them, they were secured to the body with some kind of putty.
Pop Bumper CapsPop Bumper Caps

The plastics are in okay condition, no major damage, I think they can be refreshed fairly well.
PlasticsPlastics

Lane guides are intact and will probably clean up fine.
Lane GuidesLane Guides

#3 1 year ago

Lots of parts to clean and polish.
Dirty PartsDirty Parts

The original post caps (left) are brittle and discolored. I am thinking replace with Stern style rubber post caps (center), but Williams style nylon nuts are also an option, I have both styles in stock.
Post CapsPost Caps

#4 1 year ago

The mylar under the pops is the non-adhesive kind that was very popular in EMs. If the game was not taken care of, dust got under them and you ended up with PF wear like you are seeing.

To replace those with other mylar plates, you will have to remove the pop bumpers.

Alberto

#5 1 year ago

A short review of major items already done over the past few weeks.

Front and rear leg bolt plates replaced with heavy duty version. The originals were badly mangled, all 8 leg bolts were cross-threaded and went into the garbage.
Leg Bolt Plates - FrontLeg Bolt Plates - Front
Leg Bolt Plates - RearLeg Bolt Plates - Rear

The plywood lip at the rear bottom edge of the cabinet is completely broken away, allowing the bottom panel to sag, and there was a lot of flex in the cabinet.
Missing LipMissing Lip

A generous bead of carpenter's glue applied to the inside of the cabinet (dried overnight), and some screws from the outside, dramatically improved the rigidity of the cabinet.
Glued and ScrewedGlued and Screwed

Mutilated power plug replaced.
Power PlugsPower Plugs

Jones plugs before and after. I used a rotary tool with small brass wire wheel.
Jones DirtyJones Dirty
Jones CleanJones Clean

Tilt mech before and after. It was not aligned side-to-side, maybe never was since it left the factory. I used a couple of washers to center it properly.
Tilt BeforeTilt Before
Tilt AfterTilt After

#6 1 year ago

Lockdown bar and receiver were a mess of rust. The locking mechanism could barely move at all, and required a lot of force.
Lockdown ReceiverLockdown Receiver
Lockdown BeforeLockdown Before

I heard good things about Evaporust so decided to give it a try. Managed to find a tray of just the right size, allowing a minimum of solution to be used. The self-starting siphon hose was good for filling the tray but not for emptying it, had to use a funnel and it was very awkward. Dirty solution was recovered to a second container because it can be re-used, but I didn't want to contaminate the remainder of the jug.
Evaporust SuppliesEvaporust Supplies

I let the receiver soak overnight, occasionally working the locking mechanism to ensure all parts would get exposure. Plastic wrap used to reduce evaporation loss.
Lockdown SoakLockdown Soak

Results were totally amazing, complete removal of all the rust, and lever action like new.
Lockdown AfterLockdown After

Quick and easily reversible free play hack.
Free Play HackFree Play Hack

#7 1 year ago

With parts coming off Evaporust, I tend to give them a quick polish with some Turtle Wax metal polish or I have found the rust will come back

Love the free play hack. I’ve always soldered a jumper across the switch.

Alberto

#8 1 year ago

This is awesome, and I love the details in the pictures.

Following.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Peruman:

The mylar under the pops is the non-adhesive kind that was very popular in EMs. If the game was not taken care of, dust got under them and you ended up with PF wear like you are seeing.
To replace those with other mylar plates, you will have to remove the pop bumpers.
Alberto

I usually just cut away that floating mylar and do not replace it. It's a wear trap and if the game is kept cleaned and waxed going forward, it's unnecessary IMO.

#10 1 year ago

Almost every game that visits here needs work on the shooter rod. I like to have the user-facing parts look nice, and the user-touching parts feel nice. This one failed on both counts.
Shooter BeforeShooter Before

Fortunately this is one of the easier parts to refresh. Usually it's enough to just chuck it into a drill, grab with a piece of steel wool, and spin for a minute or two. In this case I had to use some sandpaper too.
Shooter AfterShooter After

The playfield is now all clean and waxed, forgot to take any intermediate photos. Will post tomorrow after buffing it. I left the standup switches in place, but the switch actuators and the kicker had to come out. They are all grungy, and the kicker has nasty burrs on it.
Actuators BeforeActuators Before

#11 1 year ago

The cleaning was pretty successful, especially in the heavy dirt areas such as ball arch track, shooter lane, and under the apron. I'm less happy with the results of waxing, some areas are still a bit dull. I will make another pass tomorrow.
Playfield WaxedPlayfield Waxed

Compare with before:
Playfield DirtyPlayfield Dirty

#12 1 year ago

Plastics cleaned, polished, and flattened. One has a small crack but otherwise they look pretty good.
Plastics AfterPlastics After

New arrival. Maybe set it up tomorrow.
New ArrivalNew Arrival

#13 1 year ago

Well Atlantis looks to be in much nicer cosmetic condition than Volley, but it's already a project. Can't even get the legs on, all of the leg bolt plates and bolts are ruined. I hope this game won't be needing its own thread...

Some thread damage can be repaired with tap and die kit, but in this case you can see the thread cylinder is split in half from deformation of the plate.
Leg Bolt Plate - RuinedLeg Bolt Plate - Ruined

One of the playfield Jones plugs is also broken in half. Disappointing but doesn't seem like it will be a big problem.
Jones - BrokenJones - Broken

#14 1 year ago

I’ve gotten into the habit of replacing the leg bolt plates.

Looking good so far.

1 week later
#15 1 year ago

With Atlantis out of the way, I finally finished refreshing most of the Volley parts, and reassembly is in progress.

The ball kicker had large burrs, now filed down and polished smooth. Before:
Kicker BeforeKicker Before
After:
Kicker AfterKicker After

Under apron parts clean and ready for action. Before:
Under Apron BeforeUnder Apron Before
After:
Under Apron AfterUnder Apron After

#16 1 year ago

Reassembly complete.
Playfield UnlitPlayfield Unlit

Warm white frosted LED bulbs look great in any classic game.
Playfield LitPlayfield Lit

Everything is clean and shiny. The posts are not great, but I tried to place the ugliest parts out of sight.
Apron ViewApron View

There will probably be a few more tweaks but the job is pretty much done.
Shop Job CompleteShop Job Complete

#17 1 year ago

That playfield is in fantastic condition. Very nice looking work and I'm a fan of colored LED's under the inserts to add to the visual effect as well.

#18 1 year ago

Originally this game included a spring steel retaining clip for the tilt. But the clip was missing on Atlantis, so I moved that over and had to come up with another solution for Volley.
Retaining ClipRetaining Clip

After thinking about it for a couple of days, and rooting around in random parts bins, this plastic ring looked just about perfect for the job. It was easy to drill a hole and tap threads for a set screw.
Retaining RingRetaining Ring

Tilt now installed.
Tilt InstalledTilt Installed

#19 1 year ago

pbr also sells this style, better than the original clip

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
4 weeks later
#20 1 year ago

A few weeks of play testing is great for revealing pesky intermittent problems. I fixed a few small items not really worth mentioning, but one in particular seemed like a good candidate for another post.

First I noticed that occasionally, the score would not reset completely when starting a new game. Pressing Start a second time always cleared it though.

Then I noticed that the error was always on the hundreds reel. Here is an example - 6360 reset to 700.
Score 6360Score 6360Score 0700Score 0700

Being able to reproduce a problem, is really key to understanding it and fixing it properly. And this would only happen something like one game in fifty. But eventually by experimenting with specific score values achieved by finger activation of playfield switches, it became apparent that it would always occur in very specific conditions:

- hundreds reel value 1-5
- all other reels set to zero, or 6-9

This seemed pretty mysterious until I figured out the reset sequence with the help of schematic:
AX ResetAX Reset

What this is trying to say, is that each score reel has a zero-position switch connected in series. And when all of these switches are closed, it stops the score reset sequence. In conclusion - the hundreds reel must have a problem with this switch being closed when it is not at the zero position.

The specific switch could be identified by the wire colors indicated on the schematic. So let's look at the thousands reel which was working properly. This stack of three switches is influenced by a plastic actuator which follows cams on the score reel, with the bottom switch used for zero position. Here the reel is at the zero position, and the switch is closed.
1000s - Zero Position1000s - Zero Position

Moving the reel to position one lifts the actuator a bit to open the zero position switch, and close the next one. It stays like this until position eight - there is also a nine position which closes the top switch as well, but it's not relevant to this problem.
1000s - One Position1000s - One Position

Finally looking at the one position for the hundreds reel it can be seen that the conclusion is correct. The bottom switch remained closed. Bending it open slightly solved the problem.
100s - One Position100s - One Position

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