(Topic ID: 119923)

Shop Job - Master Checklist

By mof

9 years ago


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  • 69 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by mof
  • Topic is favorited by 140 Pinsiders

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    MOF's Pinball Restoration Checklist.pdf (PDF preview)
    20220727_move-holes-with-hot-poker (resized).jpg
    Shop_Job_Master_Checklist_2_Page_1_(resized).jpg
    Shop_Job_Master_Checklist_2_Page_2_(resized).jpg
    There are 69 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 2 years ago

    Added: rotate power switch so forward = on.

    ALL games are set the same way in my collection -- (personal taste)

    #52 2 years ago

    Added: all woodrail screw holes are countersunk. If you don't do this you can make it harder to get the playfield out and you may scratch up your cabinet rails.

    #53 2 years ago

    Added: check all OLD plastics for screw wear spots, and protect the new plastics from the same demise (before you install new plastics).

    1 week later
    #54 1 year ago

    Added: Woodrails, ensure they look good, (nothing peeling away) and don't scrape the edge of the cabinet on the up or down...

    #55 1 year ago

    Added: Playfield, ensure whatever is mounted to the rear of the game -- (ramps, plastics, etc) cannot drag and snap when the playfield is pulled to the full upright position. In this case, I moved the holes in the plastic a tad so that I could get an extra 1/16" of movement out of the plastics so they hopefully won't snag and catch when the PF is fully upright.

    -mof

    20220727_move-holes-with-hot-poker (resized).jpg20220727_move-holes-with-hot-poker (resized).jpg
    #56 1 year ago

    added: Playfield, drops: wax all surfaces of the drop that touch the playfield or the supporting brackets for maximum glide.

    (not always necessary, but I found an instance where this made a big difference to quickly get into the goldilocks zone)

    #57 1 year ago

    I install adhesive backed felt along the edges of the playfield whenever possible. You have to find the thin kind, like 1/16” thickness. 1/8” is too fat, that 1/4” total extra width isn’t there on most cabinets.

    It’s really nice on older games especially, the ones that don’t have the single pivot or later hardware to help guide the playfield and can get hung up on the way out of the cabinet.

    #58 1 year ago
    Quoted from sethbenjamin:

    adhesive backed felt

    I like this, I've tried it a few times, and I quickly find the felt tape ripped off. How do you manage the incentive for them to rip and tear off and need another application?

    I do apply this in front of the lockdown bar receiver to pull the glass off. I think it adds a look of elegance, whether the glass really ever drags on the wood or not.

    #59 1 year ago

    Hadn’t notice the stuff getting torn up, but could just be that it wasn’t in the shop long enough to start to go south on me. I do wish the cabinets were just a touch wider…

    Front edge of the cabinet is actually a really good idea. That part always seems at risk and it seems more trouble than it’s worth to bondo the hell out of it when doing a cabinet repaint. Felt strip is a nice touch!

    #60 1 year ago

    Added: Playfield, bulbs: add any new GI sockets with speaker wire to brighten up dark plastics.

    for example:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-clubmembers-only/page/20#post-4341582

    #61 1 year ago

    Added: Cabinet, furniture glides: ensure all are installed properly

    #62 1 year ago

    Here’s an oddball general thing I always do. Untuck your shirt if working up against an unprotected side of the cabinet. The shirt will prevent belt buckles, buttons, snaps etc on your pants from scratching the cab. Obviously, don’t wear a shirt with buttons or snaps!

    #63 1 year ago

    You make it sound like you wear pants when you shop a pin...

    Definitely an oddball.

    #64 1 year ago

    Added: Coin door, operator settings switches: ensure they work -- repair broken wires/switches as needed, all red/black caps present.

    #65 1 year ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Added: Coin door, operator settings switches: ensure they work -- repair broken wires/switches as needed, all red/black caps present.

    Personally, I would emphasize inspecting *all* switch wires, across the board. Those tiny 18 ga solder joints tend to all be on their last legs.

    Sheesh, but if you listen to me this will turn into a restoration master checklist, lol.

    2 weeks later
    #66 1 year ago

    Add: Playfield rubbers: check manual for any rubbers BIGGER than slings, cause you won't have them on hand. Prep Marco rubber list early.

    #67 1 year ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Add: Playfield rubbers: check manual for any rubbers BIGGER than slings, cause you won't have them on hand. Prep Marco rubber list early.

    Come on man I just printed out the list this morning!!!

    Now I need to update it by hand

    Thanks for making this!

    10 months later
    #68 1 year ago

    Robin supports pdfs!
    Added two pdfs to first post depending on which format you prefer.
    I definitely like having the three areas of the game on different pages.

    1 week later
    #69 1 year ago

    number 100: check for missing nuts on all under playfield solenoid brackets and pops, etc.

    There are 69 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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