(Topic ID: 119923)

Shop Job - Master Checklist


By mof

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 41 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 63 days ago by Zablon
  • Topic is favorited by 83 Pinsiders

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    #1 4 years ago

    When you get a new pin in your home, do you have a set of tasks you like to complete before the pin is "playing and looking its best?" -- I sure do, and I prefer to call it a "thorough shop job."

    It takes me anywhere between about (40 and 65) hours depending on the pin's initial condition and complexity to complete the task list below. I've reviewed a few of the pin "shop job" threads I've already documented on Pinside, and put together a master list from those. I feel that my list covers most of my favorite tasks, but I'm sure after reviewing it, some of you may feel like I've missed a few important items.

    I'm posting it here as a reference. If you have any feedback on it, feel free to comment. I put everything in alphabetical order, and I started each action item with the NAME of the item for clarity.

    My goal for the list is to cover the basics in terms of:

    1. maximize playability
    2. perform safety checks + upgrades
    3. improve appearance

    My goal here is NOT to perform a 200+ hour full HE restoration with this list.

    I'm looking forward to hearing from you what some of your favorite action items are that you don't see in my current list. I'd appreciate your input.

    If you are looking for a post-purchase inspection checklist, or playfield swap checklist here they are:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/post-purchase-checklist
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-swap-guide

    thanks,
    -mof

    #2 4 years ago

    CABINET (15-20 hrs)
    * Apron, and shooter gauge clean it (use a minimal gentle cleaner, don’t remove any paint)
    * Cabinet protectors, Install the metal PBL ones
    * Cabinet, clean and wax
    * Cabinet, troll it for parts with magnetic wand, and vacuum/clean it out
    * Cabinet wires, clean them for appearance
    * Cabinet wires, ensure the 4 harnesses move freely when playfield is rotated up/down
    * Coin door carriage bolts, remove and clean or polish them
    * Coin door flap, remove and de-rust it (if stainless steel)
    * Coin door, clean it (clean up old stickers if needed)
    * Coin door, check wiring and make sure it's all zip-tied away from colliding with the lockdown bar arm
    * Coin door, remove any dents
    * Instruction Cards, make new ones, and ensure you have new acetate covers for them
    * Leg bolts, polish and reinstall
    * Legs, de-rust, polish and wax. Install new leg levelers and floor sliders
    * Legs, set pitch and level
    * Lockdown bar, de-rust, clean and install new foam
    * Lockdown bar receiver, de-rust, clean and reinstall it
    * Paint pen black on inside and outside of cabinet, coin door, and head edges to clean up the look
    * Playfield glass channel, polish it
    * Playfield guides and edges inside the cabinet, clean/wax them for ease of movement
    * Plug, ensure it’s in good shape, or replace
    * Power, check all board Test Point’s (TPs) against spec
    * Power switch, clean it and the bracket
    * Shooter, ultrasonic, and re-install; replace 1" spring if needed to keep tip from scraping against PF
    * Speaker panel trim, clean and polish it
    * Slam Tilt (put rubber around for home use)
    * Tilt bob - center it, and ensure the ring has no tape or crap on it
    * Transformer board, remove and clean under it if possible, (sand and varnish if possible)
    * Transformer brackets, ultrasonic and reassemble, clean up transformer

    HEAD / BACKBOX (10-15 hrs)
    * Backglass, add enough foam insulation material on the lamp board and display edges until the backglass cannot move once everything is properly in place. Test your work by rattling the head to simulate good nudging. Remove the tilt bob first, to TEST the system. The pin should be dead quiet when you rattle it.
    * Backbox, clean and vacuum it
    * Backbox, clean the lamp board, tumble and reassemble door brackets
    * Backglass, clean both sides carefully
    * Backglass, install new grip tape to better hold the backglass channel and trim
    * Backglass channel, (if stainless steel) polish, clean or replace
    * Battery pack, install remote one
    * Connectors, check all connectors for burn, and replace connectors where needed
    * Dipswitches, set them for freeplay, correct game, sound, and/or set functions using coin door buttons
    * Display test
    * Displays, wipe down glass and rubber
    * Displays, review displays for proper rubber gaskets and replace with strips of weather insulation to ensure the glass cannot touch the displays, either in game, or in transport
    * Fuses, review and replace to spec
    * Fuses, review recommended upgrades to improve safety and add a few if advised
    * GI lamp board, get it to proper level and height so the displays line up properly through the backglass
    * GI lamp board, remove all bulbs, and install only 10 (my personal taste)
    * GI lamp board, verify no sockets twist or move when trying to install a cleaned up 47 bulb
    * Grounding mods, study what can help the integrity of the machine, and perform them
    * Power board, replace 30 year old caps
    * Power board, repair any and all direct-solder hacks on the (GI is often a culprit), so that the power board is interchangeable with other machines, and the head is removable
    * Solder joints, check all boards for cold solder joints and reflow as needed

    PLAYFIELD (15-30 hrs)
    * Acorns, install new set to match plastics
    * Alignment, review any shots that send balls at the flippers, and adjust alignments as necessary
    * Ball stops (above saucers), ensure they are polished and clean and reinstalled
    * Bulbs, install ultrasoniced 44s and a few LEDs where needed
    * Drop target assemblies, molex, ultrasonic and reassemble
    * Drop target stickers replace (if needed)
    * Flipper assemblies, molex and rebuild
    * Flipper button switches, replace with new parts
    * Flipper buttons, ultrasonic and reinstall
    * Flipper return frames, remove bells, and install new set from Cliffy, align for perfect ball flow (in both directions, this could require filling and drilling new holes)
    * Inlane switches, set to perfection so that moonwalking is easy and likely. If you don't -- switches can trap balls, and steal flow from the game. Make sure they are low, AND register all hits
    * Inserts, clean back of each one with a Q-tip!
    * Inserts, ensure they are all flat. Adjust and re-glue any that are not
    * Lamp (controlled) test
    * Lamp sockets, review that all work properly, and clean/replace any that need it
    * Lamp sockets, verify none twist or move when trying to install a cleaned up 44 bulb
    * Orbit bar (if it exists), buff and polish
    * Plastic protectors, create new ones from scratch for vulnerable high use areas
    * Plastics, clean and flatten
    * Plastics, install new ones where needed, and verify you have the supporting hardware (correct posts, etc)
    * Playfield brackets, (that seat in the lockdown bar) tumble and reassemble
    * Playfield, clean and wax
    * Pops, molex and rebuild all three and adjust all leaves to hair-trigger perfection, install new skirts and lamp sockets
    * Posts, tighten, tumble and re-fill all stripped holes
    * Posts, Ensure all posts are in the correct spot with healthy screws. Unscrew/screw them all back in
    * Ramps, remove and clean and reassemble, polish or regain if stainless steel
    * Rubber kit, install new one
    * Shooter Lane protector, polish and reinstall
    * Slings, tune properly
    * Solenoid test
    * Solenoid check, ensure they are all to spec (not too strong not too weak)
    * Solenoid sleeves, review them all, and clean or replace them
    * Spinner, paint strip it, spray paint it, bake on the paint, and reassemble it
    * Star posts, clean and wax, and reinstall
    * Stationary targets, ensure they have good foam behind them, clean, and adjust them
    * Switch adjustments (1-2-3 lanes, inlanes, outlanes)
    * Switch test (ensure CPU and Physical switches all register each switch)
    * Wires, inspect EVERY wire termination for breaks/fraying and cut/re-solder as needed
    * Wires, check all GI and ground wires on the sides of the playfield, and all staples to ensure none are getting pinched when the playfield is down (get your staple gun fired up)
    * Woodrails, ensure all screws are in all the way and NOT stripped, to minimize contact with cabinet rails

    #3 4 years ago

    Great checklist. Just going through the same thing now. Nice to have it itemized.

    #4 4 years ago
    Quoted from cooked71:

    Great checklist. Just going through the same thing now. Nice to have it itemized.

    Thanks man, I have a nice player pin coming soon, and I figured after having done 16 of these by now, it was time to get off my rear, and finally make my life easier with a master checklist. Everyone has their own block of time available, and style and strengths and everyone's lists will reflect those differences. I hope to learn from you when yours is complete. I realize a guy with a 200 hour checklist will have WAYYY more input than a guy with a 40 hour checklist. As you can imagine I'm hoping to hear from more guys in my bracket who invest "just enough" to make everything play sharp. I have a full time job and other hobbies, and I've discovered I can invest about 1 hour a day at restoration/shopping pins which means, to be fair to me, I need a 1-2 month plan per acquired pin so that I can move along to the next big project, like a playfield swap, or a cabinet restore.

    -mof

    #5 4 years ago

    That is a very thorough list. You did a very nice job. I don't have a specific list like that but the process is similar. I first start with clearing all the errors though. Idk if it is just my ocd or what but I have to have all errors cleared prior to setting up for permanency.

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from jmountjoy111:

    That is a very thorough list. You did a very nice job. I don't have a specific list like that but the process is similar. I first start with clearing all the errors though. Idk if it is just my ocd or what but I have to have all errors cleared prior to setting up for permanency.

    Nice one, I'll add switch test of course.
    -mof

    #7 4 years ago

    Hey mof, nice list. My first step is to go through all diagnostics and make sure everything works. While I may not fix all problems at that point, it's nice to know if any problems were pre-existing or arose during the shop job.

    #8 4 years ago

    Great list! Given the trouble that I recently had with my BSD I would may be add replacing the ribbon cables if they look like the originals.

    #9 4 years ago

    That should be a sticky. Thanks!

    #10 4 years ago

    Thanks fellas!
    -mof

    Quoted from terryb:

    Hey mof, nice list. My first step is to go through all diagnostics and make sure everything works. While I may not fix all problems at that point, it's nice to know if any problems were pre-existing or arose during the shop job.

    Added:

    Switch Test
    Lamp Test
    Solenoid Test

    -mof

    #11 4 years ago
    Quoted from nerdygrrl:

    Great list! Given the trouble that I recently had with my BSD I would may be add replacing the ribbon cables if they look like the originals.

    Added:

    Display review

    -mof

    #12 4 years ago
    Quoted from guarda:

    That should be a sticky. Thanks!

    Thanks man. If there were a sticky section in restoration, that would make sense...
    -mof

    #13 4 years ago

    I want to buy games from you! Thanks for the list for me to reference.

    #14 4 years ago
    Quoted from t2:

    I want to buy games from you!

    Thanks, but for now -- I'm just a guy trying to be thorough with restoring his own collection.
    -mof

    #15 4 years ago

    Nice list. What do you do on NIB machines?

    #16 4 years ago
    Quoted from bam10:

    Nice list. What do you do on NIB machines?

    Great question... You'll have to ask the NIB experts.
    Never had a NIB! No plans to...
    -mof

    #17 4 years ago

    Adding: "aligning flipper return guides" so that the ball flow is perfect.

    (And of course buy new return frames if Cliffy makes 'en)

    -mof

    1 month later
    #18 4 years ago

    Adding to Playfield section:

    "Posts: Ensure all posts are in the correct spot with healthy screws. Unscrew/screw them all back in."

    Just found a post in the WRONG place in my Nine Ball project (and a broken off screw).
    -mof

    2 months later
    #19 3 years ago

    I just came across this while poking around the forums, thank you very much for this tremendous list. I have been working on my first EM, and I got a lot of it by logic and reading lots of different things, but it is just great to have this list all in one place. This is very helpful for a beginner.

    I hope it is OK, I took your list and put it into a spreadsheet, that way I can make a checklist for each machine and track what has been done. You could also easily use it as a log to track the time spent by putting in a time entry for each task. Unfortunately I can't put a spreadsheet file here, but here is a PDF that might be useful also. It could be printed and used as a paper checklist.

    This list is also easily update-able if there is more that could be added.

    #20 3 years ago

    Nice man... I'll update the list from now on with additions so you know what changes I make. Surely I'll update this thing 25+ times over the next few years as I improve my skill sets.

    -mof

    #21 3 years ago

    change:
    * Shooter, ultrasonic, and re-install; replace 1" spring if needed to keep tip from scraping against PF

    #22 3 years ago

    Great, I was looking for something like this not too long ago and i knew you, of all people, would have one already! Do you happen to have one specific to playfield swaps?

    #24 3 years ago

    Nice list! A couple of things I commonly look for you might want to add to the cabinet section:

    Cabinet
    - Flipper buttons - clean/replace as necessary. Verify correct type (spring loaded or not). Set contact gap and clean/file contacts as appropriate for the type.
    - Check leg bolt plates for stripped holes. Upgrade to new Williams style where appropriate. Replace with longer leg bolts if using protectors.
    - Clamp and glue cabinet corners if glue coming loose.
    - Install plumb bob.
    - Check or replace coin door power interlock.
    - Verify slam tilts are gaped properly.
    - Clean/Replace Start Button and buy-in buttons if available.
    - Check voltage is set country correct (110/220), MOV and fuses match, and convenience outlet is installed in domestic models.
    - Verify line cord is in good condition, replace if not.
    - Install AC line cord cover (cup, half-moon) if missing.
    - Verify playfield support arm isn't missing.
    - Tighten playfield pivot nuts.
    - Tighten and check backbox latch hasn't been pulled out before.
    - Install new oak "ReeseRails" and sliders on bottom of cabinet if broken/missing.
    - Align plunger tip to center of ball.
    - Purchase coin box if missing to hold parts.
    - Sand bottom/interior to remove dirt and paint overspray.
    - Order higher quality replacement speakers to replace cheap paper ones.

    #25 3 years ago

    Updated checklist with items from posts #21 and # 24 added.

    5 months later
    #26 3 years ago

    Looks like with updates to the forum PDF files are no longer allowed. Here are the 2 pages as JPG images. Its not really an ideal way to have that information. If it is of value to some of you, I can put the PDF and even the XLS file on my website where it can be downloaded. Let me know here if that will be helpful and I'll do it as soon as I can get time.

    Shop_Job_Master_Checklist_2_Page_1_(resized).jpg

    Shop_Job_Master_Checklist_2_Page_2_(resized).jpg

    11 months later
    #27 2 years ago

    Added:

    I just had a wire break on a coin door lamp on a new project.

    Lesson learned. 2 minute solution. Proper inspection and zip-ties...

    * Coin door, check wiring and make sure it's all zip-tied away from colliding with the lockdown bar arm when door is closed

    2 months later
    #28 2 years ago

    Adding:

    Backbox:

    Displays:

    * review displays for proper rubber gaskets and replace with strips of weather insulation to ensure the glass cannot touch the displays, either in game, or in transport

    1 year later
    #29 1 year ago

    Adding:

    Cabinet:

    Set pitch to 6.5° and playtest a lot (after a mylar polish and wax), and make sure you have the flipper strength you need to make all shots. Also, make sure you don't have too much flipper strength.

    1 month later
    #30 1 year ago

    Adding:

    * Alignment, review any shots that send balls to the flippers, and adjust alignments as necessary:

    (orbit shots, scoops, VUK/ramps, ramps, etc.)

    2 weeks later
    #31 1 year ago

    Adding:

    * Build up enough foam insulation material on the lamp board and display edges until the backglass cannot move once everything is properly in place. Test your work by rattling the head to simulate good nudging. The pin should be QUIET other than the tilt bob. Remove the tilt bob first, to TEST the system.

    #32 1 year ago

    Adding:

    * Inlane switches, set to perfection so that moonwalking is easy and likely. If you don't -- switches can trap balls, and steal flow from the game. Make sure they are low, AND register all hits.

    11 months later
    #33 73 days ago

    Adding:
    * Power board, repair any and all direct-solder hacks on the (GI is often a culprit), so that the power board is interchangeable with other machines, and the head is removable

    SMH

    #34 70 days ago

    Adding...
    * Lamp sockets, verify none twist or move when trying to install a cleaned up 44 bulb -- get staple gun ready

    #35 68 days ago

    Adding...

    * Inserts, clean back of each one with a Qtip!

    #36 67 days ago

    Adding...
    * Wires, check all GI and ground wires on the sides of the playfield, and all staples to ensure none are getting pinched when the playfield is down (get your staple gun fired up)

    #37 66 days ago

    Adding...
    * Woodrails, ensure all screws are in all the way and NOT stripped, to minimize contact with cabinet rails

    #38 63 days ago

    Adding...
    * Coin door, remove any dents

    #39 63 days ago

    Adding...
    * Replace drop target stickers if needed

    #40 63 days ago

    Adding...
    * Tilt bob - center it, and ensure the ring has no tape or crap on it

    #41 63 days ago

    I feel lazy..I just...plug them in and play them. I get around to shopping them 6-10 years later.

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