MOF's RAZZLE DAZZLE 99-point checklist !
CABINET (15-20 hrs)
* Cabinet protectors, Install the metal PBL ones
* Cabinet, clean and wax
* Cabinet, troll it for parts with magnetic wand, and vacuum/clean it out
* Cabinet wires, clean them for appearance
* Cabinet wires, ensure the 4 harnesses move freely when playfield is rotated up/down
* Coin door carriage bolts, remove and clean or polish them
* Coin door flap, remove and de-rust it (if stainless steel)
* Coin door, clean it (clean up old stickers if needed)
* Coin door, check wiring and make sure it's all zip-tied away from colliding with the lockdown bar arm
* Coin door, remove any dents
* Coin door, operator settings switches, ensure they work -- repair broken wires/switches as needed
* Furniture glides, ensure all are installed properly
* Instruction Cards, make new ones, and ensure you have new acetate covers for them
* Leg bolts, polish and reinstall
* Legs, de-rust, polish and wax. Install new leg levelers and floor sliders
* Legs, set pitch and level
* Lockdown bar, de-rust, clean and install new foam
* Lockdown bar receiver, de-rust, clean and reinstall it
* Paint pen black on inside and outside of cabinet, coin door, and head edges to clean up the look
* Playfield glass channel, polish it
* Playfield guides and edges inside the cabinet, clean/wax them for ease of movement
* Playfield, ensure whatever is mounted to the rear of the game -- (ramps, plastics, etc) cannot drag and snap when the playfield is pulled to the full upright position.
* Plug, ensure it’s in good shape, or replace
* Power, check all board Test Point’s (TPs) against spec
* Power switch, clean it and the bracket, and rotate it so forward = "on"
* Shooter, ultrasonic, and re-install; replace 1" spring if needed to keep tip from scraping against PF
* Speaker panel trim, clean and polish it
* Slam Tilt (put shrink-tubing, tape or rubber around for home use)
* Tilt bob - center it, and ensure the ring has no tape or crap on it
* Transformer board, remove and clean under it if possible, (sand and varnish if possible)
* Transformer brackets, ultrasonic and reassemble, clean up transformer
HEAD / BACKBOX (10-15 hrs)
* Backglass, add enough foam insulation material on the lamp board and display edges until the backglass cannot move once everything is properly in place. Test your work by rattling the head to simulate good nudging. Remove the tilt bob first, to TEST the system. The pin should be dead quiet when you rattle it.
* Backbox, clean and vacuum it
* Backbox, clean the lamp board, tumble and reassemble door brackets
* Backglass, clean both sides carefully
* Backglass, install new grip tape to better hold the backglass channel and trim
* Backglass channel, (if stainless steel) polish, clean or replace
* Battery pack, install remote one
* Connectors, check all connectors for burn, and replace connectors where needed
* Dipswitches, set them for freeplay, correct game, sound, and/or set functions using coin door buttons
* Display test
* Displays, wipe down glass and rubber
* Displays, review displays for proper rubber gaskets and replace with strips of weather insulation to ensure the glass cannot touch the displays, either in game, or in transport
* Fuses, review and replace to spec
* Fuses, review recommended upgrades to improve safety and add a few if advised
* GI lamp board, get it to proper level and height so the displays line up properly through the backglass (on 80s Williams games, this means removing 1 screw and moving the lower bracket BACK 1/8")
* GI lamp board, remove all bulbs, and install only 10 (my personal taste)
* GI lamp board, verify no sockets twist or move when trying to install a cleaned up 47 bulb
* Grounding mods, study what can help the integrity of the machine, and perform them
* MPU -- Check female molex connectors for keys
* Power board, replace 30 year old caps
* Power board, repair any and all direct-solder hacks on the (GI is often a culprit), so that the power board is interchangeable with other machines, and the head is removable
* Solder joints, check all boards for cold solder joints and reflow as needed
PLAYFIELD (15-30 hrs)
* Acorns, install new set to match plastics
* Alignment, review any shots that send balls at the flippers, and adjust alignments as necessary
* Apron, and shooter gauge clean them (use a very gentle cleaner if water alone doesn't do the trick (test a spot), don’t remove any paint with alcohol or solvents)
* Apron (under), clean all trough parts and re-sleeve trough solenoid
* Ball stops (above saucers), ensure they are polished and clean and reinstalled
* Bulbs, install ultrasoniced 44s and a few LEDs where needed
* Drop target assemblies, molex, ultrasonic and reassemble (wax surfaces that rub, optional step)
* Drop target stickers replace (if needed)
* Flipper assemblies, molex and rebuild
* Flipper button switches, replace with new parts
* Flipper buttons, ultrasonic and reinstall
* Flipper return frames, remove bells, and install new set from Cliffy, align for perfect ball flow (in both directions, this could require filling and drilling new holes)
* GI, add any new GI sockets with speaker wire to brighten up dark plastics
* Inlane switches, set to perfection so that moonwalking is easy and likely. If you don't -- switches can trap balls, and steal flow from the game. Make sure they are low, AND register all hits
* Inserts, clean back of each one with a Q-tip!
* Inserts, ensure they are all flat. Adjust and re-glue any that are not
* Lamp (controlled) test
* Lamp sockets, review that all work properly, and clean/replace any that need it
* Lamp sockets, verify none twist or move when trying to install a cleaned up 44 bulb
* Orbit bar (if it exists), buff and polish
* Plastic protectors, create new ones from scratch for vulnerable high use areas
* Nuts, missing under the playfield anywhere: check for missing nuts on all under playfield solenoid brackets and pops, etc.
* Plastics, clean and flatten
* Plastics, check all OLD plastics for screw wear spots, and protect the new plastics from the same demise
* Plastics, install new ones where needed, and verify you have the supporting hardware (correct posts, etc)
* Playfield brackets, (that seat in the lockdown bar) tumble and reassemble
* Playfield, clean and wax
* Pops, molex and rebuild all three and adjust all leaves to hair-trigger perfection, install new skirts and lamp sockets
* Posts, tighten, tumble and re-fill all stripped holes
* Posts, Ensure all posts are in the correct spot with healthy screws. Unscrew/screw them all back in
* Ramps, remove and clean and reassemble, polish or regain if stainless steel
* Rubber kit, check manual for any rubbers BIGGER than slings, cause you won't have them on hand. Prep Marco rubber list early.
* Rubber kit, install new one
* Shooter Lane protector, polish and reinstall
* Slings, tune properly
* Solenoid test
* Solenoid check, ensure they are all to spec (not too strong not too weak)
* Solenoid sleeves, review them all, and clean or replace them
* Spinner, paint strip it, spray paint it, bake on the paint, and reassemble it
* Star posts, clean and wax, and reinstall
* Stationary targets, ensure they have good foam behind them, clean, and adjust them
* Switch adjustments (1-2-3 lanes, inlanes, outlanes)
* Switch test (ensure CPU and Physical switches all register each switch)
* Wires, inspect EVERY wire termination for breaks/fraying and cut/re-solder as needed
* Wires, check all GI and ground wires on the sides of the playfield, and all staples to ensure none are getting pinched when the playfield is down (get your staple gun fired up)
* Woodrails, ensure they look good, (nothing peeling away) and don't scrape the edge of the cabinet on the up or down...
* Woodrails, ensure all screws are in all the way and NOT stripped, to minimize contact with cabinet rails. All holes countersunk.
San Francisco, CA
Sydney
Do you happen to have one specific to playfield swaps?
