(Topic ID: 289372)

Sharpshooter , breaking all the rules

By the9gman

6 months ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by the9gman
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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#1 6 months ago

So I bought this Sharpshooter cause I read it was a decent game. Like almost any other game I buy it was trashed more dirt then I have ever seen (you can see where I started with ME and 91% around the 5x) and not working. I can usually get them fixed up and running as decent fun games. I didn't dare put power on this till I got it home and worked on it a bit because it had a few hacks that I was leary about. Surprisingly when I did fire it up the mpu was good , sound board good other boards operational
What's bad ....the damn connectors that attach the head to the playfield .....Corroded as all hell .....they were so bad when I picked up the machine I looked like a rookey because they were so corroded they would not come apart....15 minute disassembly turned into an hour

The backglass is nice,but the cabinet is pretty ugly not to mention the black aftermarket plunger mod which is probably responsible for all the black garbage on the playfield

I was thinking about repining these but to me it wasn't worth the effort So I made a connector jack panel with 15pin d-sub computer connectors for all the 22 ga wires and I bought some automotive connectors for the larger wires

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#2 6 months ago

Normally in any electronic installation practise you do not use the same type connectors. The idea is to make it idiot proof. I decided to break that rule so that I would have reliability. They are color coded instead and they will be easy to assemble and disassemble. There may be some that say you did not keep the machine original but the original connectors were corroded and they flat out suck. This machine is not worth a lot of money and never will be a museum piece so I am not worried about breaking rules

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#3 6 months ago

then I added automotive connectors bought off ebay for 10 bucks a pair and I must say these are nice connectors. I would use them again and the crimper pictured is excellent for these connectors

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#4 6 months ago

This is one of the original connectors, you can see all the corrosion and garbage on the pins. This is probably the biggest problems with Game Plan machines

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#5 6 months ago

I got lucky with the MPU and all the circuit cards ....they all work. Someone had done some troubleshooting and cut and twisted together a bunch of wires wires and I don't think they knew how to solder or what a soldering iron was

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#6 6 months ago

Had to fabricate new flipper parts and rewelded a completely broken in half at the mount flipper stop. Now I need to change all the caps on the MPU and start working on the structural and cosmetic damage on the cabinet

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#7 6 months ago

Those Mate-n-lok connectors truly suck. Trying to take them apart does a number on your fingers. They’re like the Cap’n Crunch of connectors.

Be sure to save the originals in case someone wants to go back to factory. You can still buy replacement pins, but sourcing the housings is proving difficult.

#8 6 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Trying to take them apart does a number on your fingers

yep once is enough for a lifetime ....wonder if that was one of the reasons Game Plan went out of business ....their technicians worked for about two weeks and said this sucks ,quit, and went to work somewhere else

#9 6 months ago

didn't have a 10nf cap so pulled the one off the board and it was spot on , understand this is a very important timing cap ,reinstalled it and then checked all the other lima beans and they were all off by a minimum of 30nf so replaced them all

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1 week later
#10 6 months ago

got the leg fixed so now you only need one wrench to attach it and painted the legs hammered black ....definitely looks better then rusted grey

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#11 6 months ago

put the machine back together and fixed a wiring problem that was in the machine ......I followed the color code and schematics that the IPDB has on their website the problem was three wires 10, 11 and 12 on J5 on the MPU got them squared away and got all the solenoids working with the exception of the kickout hole. The kick out hole is controlled by a wire ....Red/yellow on pin 13 of J5 and it was reading low .732 and it should have read around 4.65 like all the other strobes

#12 6 months ago

And then .....A bone head maneuver.....forgot to turn off the power switch and went to check all the switches connected to the yellow /red wire ....one of which was the tilt switch right next to the 28v fuse.....accidently hit the fuse and sparks the mpu freaked out and the sound card went nuts .....shut down the machine and when I turned it back on the mpu would not boot and the led was flashing ....not good....far as I can figure I blew up a 339 and U14 ....did the trick shorting 25 and 26 of U17 and got 5 flashes ...which also could be pointing at U14 .....waiting on parts now ....
stupid place to put an uninsulated fuse

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#13 6 months ago

and the good news I had a 74154 (U14) in my stock so I decided to change it out and guess what ....6 flashes however when I put it back in the machine the upper right bumper kicked on and stayed on ....smoke from the paper was a dead give away, however caught it fast enough that the coil did not get damaged ....just got hot. Disconnected the Sdu board from the MPU and turned it back on .....signal is coming from the MPU is the problem. so I still believe I have some 339 s to change ....should be in by Friday and I can move on.

#14 6 months ago

I like the serial port type connector setup. Nice work.

#15 6 months ago

Thanks .....it's a hell of a lot easier to take the playfield out and but it on the bench now

#16 6 months ago

so I put in the new 339's and got the same crap.....upper right bumper locks on as soon as power is applied ....checked the sol select lines 1 thru 4 that go to the sdu board and found output of U15 shorted for sol select 3 to ground.......pulled u15 and the short is still there so looks like a bad 379 chip yehaa got to wait for parts again

#17 6 months ago

Hope they make cpu boards again for this game.

#18 6 months ago

yea me too but it was my fault and I blew up my own board and I'm in the home stretch of fixing it plus I'm learning a lot on how it operates. I don't really know how the 379 's got hit from my error. would be nice to know what language they programmed these machines with......I'm guessing for the time frame it was C .....Be damn nice to have an original copy so you could play with it change the rules and make the machine do what you want it to. Trying to decode machine code is daunting

#19 6 months ago
Quoted from the9gman:

would be nice to know what language they programmed these machines with......

It would've been programmed in native Z80 assembler to produce efficient code.

#20 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

It would've been programmed in native Z80 assembler

bet that guy got paid a lot back in the day

#21 6 months ago
Quoted from the9gman:

bet that guy got paid a lot back in the day

Things were different back then, software guys knew how to program in native CPU code.

#22 6 months ago

I grew up in the era but missed a lot of computer stuff .....in 1981 I dealt with my first computer in the Navy on A7 Corsairs.....the damn thing weighed over 100lbs and used Iron core memory.....it was used mostly for navigation but dam it could put a 25 lb bomb within 10 foot of the target area....pretty impressive for being designed in the late 60's

#23 6 months ago

This thing is kicking my ass and it shouldn't be .....when I put U15 in I created a problem there was a micro short between two ground pins and a trace that went thru the opening of the pins .....now I got 6 flashes and none of the solenoids fire. may still be a problem with U15 because when I look at the clock pulses for U19 and U20 and U21 there is no sign of a clock pulse yet you can see all four inputs firing going into U15

#24 6 months ago

so I put the board back in the game to do some more troubleshooting and almost everything worked ....Solenoids, sound lights and functions ....played a couple of games and this machine is just loose like an old junk car.....took a bumper apart to clean it up to get it working better and the holes on the compression ring were wore in an oval shape ...have lots of issues like this to work out .....There is an operator sticker on the machine. looked him up ...no longer in business.....I don't have to wonder why cause this dude put his machines out beat the shit out of them.

The ball swirls are black and ground in

This thing was definitely rode hard and put away wet

at best this will be a players machine , but I can see where it will be a good machine because the rule set is pretty good for an old machine

3 months later
#25 3 months ago

so I almost gave up on pinside but decided to come back and finish this thread. Progress has slowed but still getting some things done. Since Game Plan has been out of Business for a while I thought their apron design needed a little help so added some opera lights on the score cards and added a new touch to the apron

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#26 3 months ago
Quoted from the9gman:

so I almost gave up on pinside but decided to come back and finish this thread. Progress has slowed but still getting some things done. Since Game Plan has been out of Business for a while I thought their apron design needed a little help so added some opera lights on the score cards and added a new touch to the apron
[quoted image][quoted image]

Always liked the card lights on Gottliebs, pity it did not become a standard.

#27 3 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

pity it did not become a standard

I'm with you ....got the idea from my Extra Innings baseball game thought it added something extra to the game appearance and wondered why they did not continue with the idea

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