(Topic ID: 315604)

Sharp Shooter II, all insert lighting is out

By desertT1

88 days ago


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Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 78 days ago by desertT1
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 88 days ago

Got my first Gameplan game recently. It booted when I got it but didn't start a game. That's now been resolved and I am now working on the insert lights. None of them work. I lifted the playfield and I get 6.3V on the power braid and the tabs of the few return wires that I tested. I touched a few points on the board and got voltage on the drivers too. The bulbs aren't all burned out, as I inspected a few and those were fine. Looks like there just isn't any info about which lights to turn on getting sent out because all the power issues that could happen check out just fine. As my first Gameplan, I'm wondering if there is anything else I can look at to see what's up. Thanks.

#2 87 days ago

First check the wire harness connectors from the backbox to the playfield. They are notorious for corrosion. Next, do you have the schematic?

#3 87 days ago
Quoted from Rapid_Roy:

First check the wire harness connectors from the backbox to the playfield. They are notorious for corrosion. Next, do you have the schematic?

Do you mean the .100 connectors on the light board, or the beefy ones between the head and the playfield?

I have the schematic to reference on IPDB.

#4 86 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Do you mean the .100 connectors on the light board, or the beefy ones between the head and the playfield?
I have the schematic to reference on IPDB.

The ones between the head and playfield. Of course, all connectors should be checked for corrosion.
If the connectors look okay, check J2 on the lamp driver board for 5V and good ground.

1 week later
#5 79 days ago
Quoted from Rapid_Roy:

The ones between the head and playfield. Of course, all connectors should be checked for corrosion.
If the connectors look okay, check J2 on the lamp driver board for 5V and good ground.

Completely agree to start here. Also you will want to check for 7vdc (Red wire) that goes to one side of the insert lights. If this is bad, then it could be a rectifier on your power supply that is bad. If it is good, and if zero insert lights works, then it is either a bad ground (solder joints on your headers on the LDU, corroded connectors, etc.) or maybe a bad connection between the mpu and the LDU board.

Hope that helps!

#6 79 days ago

If you have access another Gameplan machine it would be worth swapping the lamp driver to see if anything changes.

Do you have a logic probe? If so you could check the control lines between the MPU and lamp driver to check for activity or if the lines are stuck.

#7 78 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If you have access another Gameplan machine it would be worth swapping the lamp driver to see if anything changes.
Do you have a logic probe? If so you could check the control lines between the MPU and lamp driver to check for activity or if the lines are stuck.

I don't have another GP game, but do have a logic probe and very minimal experience with it. So I can poke around and see what I can figure out.

#8 78 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I don't have another GP game, but do have a logic probe and very minimal experience with it. So I can poke around and see what I can figure out.

A great learning exercise to get more familiar with the logic probe. There are some really good YouTube examples on using one. Just knowing that signals are always low/high, or pulsing can help a lot.

#9 78 days ago

My first experience in GamePlan machines was with two non-working Sharpshooter games. Who knows the History on the games but you can work through the issues. Both of mine work great now and are solid machines. Have a Sharpshooter II that I am working on now.

You'll get it sorted out.

#10 78 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

A great learning exercise to get more familiar with the logic probe. There are some really good YouTube examples on using one. Just knowing that signals are always low/high, or pulsing can help a lot.

Is there a good spot to tap into 5V for the logic probe? The test points are flat spots, not studs or loops. Looks like J1-1/2/5/7 are the enable pins for the 4 chips on the lamp board. going to assume I should check those and also the outputs for U1/2/3/6 to see if those are sending signals to the transistors.

#11 78 days ago

Ok, J4 on the light board isn't used and I found a few pins that have 6VDC. I used pin 9. Then attached to the "ground here" braid and the light on the probe turned on. I touched pin 23 on each of U1/2/3/6, which is the enable pin. Those are all high. Then I touched pins 4-11 on each chip and those are all low.

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